This June ill have owned my F250 9 years. This November ill have had the bronco 13! :eek: I must be getting old. At least this one is still in decent shape though. Just finished cleaning/polishing the wheels, and doing a good clean on the body, couldn't resist snapping a few pics.
Theres been a few dents & scrapes along the way, but she's gonna be around for the long haul, so in another year or two, the body is getting the full resto treatment :thumbup
the 2fity looks great..:thumbup
Always good to see them in good hands. It'd take way too much cash to take mine off my hands, It's in it for the long haul too.
Man, everything about this truck is perfect.
pretty cool not digging the rust hiders though.
Looking good Kevin, alway liked the look of that truck.
Great combo. I ended up with a bronco for hauling and using the pickup for offroad use. Wish I had it your way instead.
Also, rep do you have a SM page? There are quite a few pics of your bronco that I have used before (and now lost) to demonstrate different things to people who were currently building a trail rig and I'm not sure if all of them are in the sig links on the "forensick" page. If possible could you post it up or pm me?
clean truck! just wondering....are you running the stock d50ttb or did you sas it? it almost looks like a solid axle under there, but it's hard to see. i hated the d50 in my 89 f250, it rode like crap!
The old body style rigs are the best :D
I've always liked your rigs Rept, great stuff.
I've always wondered though, beyond the D60, what all mods have you made to the F250? How many miles are on it?
good looking f-250 you know how to keep them in great shape.
Thanks everybody :thumbup :thumbup :thumbup Ive owned a few different trucks over the years, but this one has grown to be my favorite, I definitely want it to last for a long time yet. Sure is hard work keeping it (somewhat) clean though!
Everything is on forensick, altho I may have slacked off and forgot to add some links to the index pages. Next rainy day ill have to go thru it and make sure theyre updated.
Just breaking in at 153k miles :rockon
Yes, D60. Had a 6" Skyjacker lift, I ditched the front leafs for stock F350 leafs & a 3.5" Sky shackle reversal, rides mucho nicer now. They are about whooped though, which is fortunate that this Friday my new s/r kit arrives, which ill be using to put Superduty leafs under the front :rockon Edit: Installed (here).
Still got the Skyjacker leafs out back, altho theyre getting old now, def sagged a bit, but I really like the stance- low, and tail-high.
As for other mods, it has a tymar intake, banks d.p. & exhaust ($$$ I know) & a full set of Autometer gauges. I made a cross-over pipe for the heads for the high-pressure oil system, helps clean up the idle a bit. Switched to the 97 PCM which has way better glow-plug logic (necessity, my pcm died). Also got some performance parts from Swamps Diesel Performance, namely their Baby Swamps injectors, their tuned up IDM and a 6-pos chip, which starts at stock and goes to holy crap :toothless Needless to say I violently exploded the E4OD last year towing (destroyed everything except the reverse planetary), so now ive got a fully upgraded one with SS planetaries, billet converter, the whole nine yards. I also have a water-meth injection kit sitting in the garage, which will be going in within the next month once I figure out where to put the tank & pump :rockon
Always liked that 2fidy. Looking sharp.
When my f150 grows up, it wants to look like that! :toothless:
Just finished installing my Cooling Mist water/meth injection system yesterday, so it still needs some tuning but that's basically it.
Heres where i decided to install the controller. Its visible, but doesn't blind me at night (it is pretty bright)
Had to build a fairly extensive wiring harness to hook it all up
The kit comes with a 1 gallon tank, but IMO that's pretty small for a diesel so I bought a 12 gallon tank from the tank depot, and installed it in the toolbox here. While the tank is awesome, I didn't not expect the 6-8 week lead time to get it :eek:
Divider to keep stuff away from it
Heres the tank:
sump, with 3/4" fitting
...and here's the basic idea
So I had to build a carriage to hold the tank securely, and get the sump high enough that the tank can gravity-feed the pump that will be installed next to it
Mock-up, with pump sitting there
Had to put a notch in the toolbox lid to clear tank
Carriage complete, with tabs for other parts of the system
Finished and painted
Note the foam padding on the straps, to keep them from rubbing on the tank
Had to install a float in the tank. When empty, it will throw an error code, and shut the system down so the pump doesn't run dry
Here is the general idea before the final install in the truck
On the side of the frame is a solenoid that the controller turns on when injecting. This defaults closed, so if anything goes wrong with the system the ground drops out and it closes, preventing the system from over injecting. Also closed when the key is off, so it is impossible for the tank/pump to siphon and fill intake with water.
In front, next to the pump, is the Failsafe Control Box, which is basically the brain of the system. It learns your system, and if it senses anything is awry, it alerts the controller in the dash, which is when the system will shut down and display an error code. It has lots of conditions for keeping the system in-line, and is tunable through the dash controller.
I opted to install these items here, in an effort to keep the system contained to the toolbox. The FCB could go anywhere, but I didn't want to clutter up space under the hood or dash, and it seemed logical to keep the solenoid close to the pump.
Ok, divider installed:
Wiring in progress. I like weatherpacks. Used em for years with zero problems, and they make the system easy to disassemble.
The supply tube is nylon tubing. I have it wrapped in split loom for extra protection
...and this is where the injector goes (pipe plug in intake). Moved injector post-turbo at recommendation of people on PSN
So that's basically it. I drove it to work for the first time last night, and it definitely does the job well! I have Baby Swamps (injectors) with an E4OD, 4.10s & 37s so EGTs are always a concern for me, but I was flying (needle pegged) and couldn't get it to 1200ļ no matter how hard I tried. Im gonna have to hitch up the trailer to get a heavier load on the truck, in order to tune it better. So yeah, its awesome :rockon
Damn that's a nice truck! :thumbup
This is my brother's truck. He's had the rear fenders fixed, swapped it to 5-speed, ts 6 position with Tony Wildman tunes. :rockon He's looking to run water meth in the future
In the near future I'm gonna be shopping for a crew cab shortbed 250, I love the obs trucks, and the ccsb trucks are getting hard to find
Nice pickup but where your Bronco pictures Bro!...lol lol :thumbup
here ya go
Dont worry there will be plenty when I get back from the ECBR :rockon
Don't tell my bronco, but I love the 92-96 trucks :rockon
Tell him to do it! ive only had it in a full day now, but the difference was surprising. Then, when he's ready to do injectors he wont have EGT issues.
If anything happens to my truck im going crew cab, they are so badass.
Nice Brother, thanks ~ :thumbup
Kevin,the rig looks great:thumbup
Which kit did you go with?
I am looking at trying to lower my EGT's also.Those Baby Swamps are awesome but man,it gets real hot real quick..
looks awesome. i never realized the interest in these trucks. i just got rid of my 97 f250 powerstroke crew cab short bed 4x4[IMG]http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/...ps31f2fe33.jpg[/IMG]
Around these parts, these old 7.3s are still commanding a decent price, theyre worth more than newer chevys or dodges.
Yeah the EGTs, they climb fairly fast, but this takes care of that.
This is the kit I used. Not cheap, but arguably the best currently on the market. I ordered the "Under 300 HP" version with a single nozzle. You can go pretty wild with dual pumps & dual nozzles if youre putting down major power, but for a mild tow rig this is all I need.
Oh, interesting tidbit. I had no idea until yesterday, but Walmart has a separate website dedicated to MSDS sheets for every product they make. I mention this because according to the MSDS, their cheap Super Tech Windshield Washer Fluid is apparently just over 30% methanol, with the rest being water. So that's what im running in the tank :thumbup
No kidding, that's the winter stuff. Looked up the MSDS for the summer washer fluid, and it says 70-100% water :rofl:
On the up-side, the winter stuff is the exact mix of water/meth I wanted to run anyway, so that's what ill continue to get.
What does the water/meth injection do for it?
The water lowers your EGTs. This is the primary function, as the F250 is mainly a tow rig and not a cruiser. The methanol is primarily in there for winter use as it keeps the water from freezing, altho it is technically a fuel so you can gain HP from it, if theres enough of it in there.
The combo of 4.10s & 37s is nice for cruising, and I have the power to tow the bronco pretty well, but keeping my exhaust & cylinder temps manageable is somewhat challenging when towing in the mountains. This takes care of that. From the #s im seeing driving on the freeway to/from work, this system works better than an intercooler, which is actually kind of a PITA to install in these old trucks.
Kev,the kit that you have is a little(way:toothless)out of my price range.Is the stage one kit any good?What is the big difference between the 2?
Seems like a pretty cool setup, I will be showing this to my bro in law. I am guessing it is a fairly inexpensive mod too.
It can go either way, just depends on how you spec out your kit. I went towards the high end (this one) because I wanted to buy it once and never have to worry about upgrading, altho you can get a basic kit from them for half that price.
The main difference between the CMGS & the VC2 is the controller, the CMGS is a shaped like a standard 2 1/16 gauge whereas the VC2 is a big square controller. Functionally they are the same.
Both the CMGS & the VC2 can use the Failsafe Control Box (FCB or FSB, same thing), which is basically a brain that stores info about your system. It is designed as a secondary failsafe because if it senses something out of the ordinary it also will shut the system down and tell the controller to display a specific error code. I like it because it is basically a second system monitoring the injection, to make sure nothing goes wrong. Not required unless you go big with 2 injection pumps and 2 nozzles. But that's the big boy stuff, like 350 HP and up trucks, not what you or me have so again, not a requirement.
My kit also has a solenoid instead of check valve. The idea here is, the controller must turn on the solenoid in order to inject water; this means there is no chance of the system dripping into the intake when the engine is off or im parked on a hill, etc. Basically eliminates the chance of accidental hydro-lock. Also nice is that if something goes wrong, the controller drops the ground, which shuts the solenoid down preventing the pump from injecting anything.
The cool thing about their kits is you can buy a basic kit now, and then just add components to it later if you wanted to upgrade. Id recommend either the CMGS or VC2 even if you get a stripped down system because the progressive injection is badass. No matter what kit you get, upgrade to the solenoid for the comfort of knowing there is no check valve to potentially fail or leak through.
I would not bother buying a tank from them, id get one elsewhere since you can get more for your money that way.
great work bud. never even herd of the system and now I know what it does and how to install it. needs it's own build thread... for F250 stuff. :rockon
Ha yeah, I know it doesn't apply to many people here but this is my primary hangout and I figured you guys would be interested anyway :toothless
I remember this truck! Still looking good as ever, you have a great tow rig/trail rig combo for sure!
Water Injection Update: it is amazing. I consumed almost 20 gallons towing the bronco to VA, however I was loaded way heaver then I normally am, and that was with the cruise set at 65 for the whole trip. It works amazing, I was tuning it on the way down, and found at 100% duty cycle, it will drop my EGTs from 1200 to 900 in ~ 30 seconds :eek: That's going up hill, at 65mph. Yeah, it works awesome. Of course, tuned that high consumes a ton of water, so I throttled it back a bit for the ride home. But yeah, awesome. Being able to tune it on the fly with the CMGS was awesome, it would've been a major pita to pull over after every hill to adjust a manual boost switch until I found a setting I liked.
Ok, next project. Started this one before my trip, didn't get to finish till this week. Damn rain & humidity delayed me as well, but theyre done.
So I bought a piece of 2*3, .250 wall, 16' long, at the scrap steel yard for $50. So I decided to make some steps for the diesel.
Looking at fitment
Deciding where to cut them off at
Has to fit around bolt for fender
Both cut, notches to clear fender bolt closed in
Mocking up legs
All welded up
...and bolted to frame
Next up, steps
...and for the finishing touch, 2" grip tape.
I know its not ideal for a rock crawler to have that step hanging down, but this thing only gets wheeled if we need a trailer offroad, so it shouldnt be an issue, and they definitely make it easier for my vertically-challenged wife to get in & out :toothless
Those came out real nice.
Looks good Kevin.
They came out great!
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Looks good man :thumbup
Sharp truck. Those are getting real hard to find in these parts.
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Thanks everybody :thumbup
Yeah seems most have been designated as plow trucks, which has ruined most of them around here. Getting harder to find a clean one.
just recently got my own CCSB in need of a restortion picked her up for 800$
Got some new tires on Tuesday!
Found a local shop that could get 35" BFGs for my 16.5s, so I ordered a set.
ive missed these tires! The Goodyears were ok, but performance-wise, these tires are phenomenal. For those that remember, I used to run these, but then for a while a few years back no one could get any. I thought they were disco-d (like most other 16.5s) and gone forever (which is when I switched to the 37s), but these days theres plenty of em out there. So I happily jumped on the chance to get another set. Only been on a couple days, but man I love em :rockon
And for a little bit of tech, I have them balanced with Counteract Balancing Beads, which are basically the same thing as Equal (you can get them on Ebay). Little glass beads inside the tire. Glass is nice because it wont get all clumpy from moisture like the cheaper ones that are basically sand. I used 12oz bags which is a bit much, probably could've gotten away with 10oz, but a little extra doesn't hurt. They are smooth as glass on the highway :smokin:
I like those tires to, there is a reason there pretty much unchanged since the beginning. Any reason you went with beads instead of weights, not the big if a tire to not be able to balance.
I talked a friend into buying a set of 33x12.5x6.5 for his ram 3500. They are good tires and last forever. As far as the beads go though, I don't care for wheel weights either.
I agree, they are awesome tires. My last set I got 58k out of them, and they were awesome right to the end. So happy to have another set.
I went with beads primarily because I always bead balance, but also because while ive lost wheel weights in the past, this way they will always be perfectly balanced, til the day they are bald and thrown away.
I can honestly say that the bfg km2 mt's are a damn good tire too. Very impressed with the performance and they hold up great to.
Never though of it that way, maybe ill have to try it on my next tires.
Woah an update!
So here we are, 3 years later. Everything still works!
Sort of, anyway :toothless
This thing needs some TLC tho, so here we go!!
Step one, remove tailgate & bumper:
Step two, remove rotted out, worn out trailer hitch:
Locate bed bolts in bed liner (this part sucks)
This one was particularly stubborn, had to cut bottom of bolt off. They have an interesting shoulder on them so as to not crush the bed when torqued down; also means they must come out the top even when the head is cut off :duh
Front-left bolt. Another stubborn one. This one i had to cut the nut off with a die grinder, due to how close it is to the fuel & brake lines
This is a fun job to do. 5 out of 6 bed bolts fought me, and ended up getting cut. Im still going to have to deal with this later!
So much scale falling on me the whole time too.
Then a couple buddies stopped by, and this happened!
Bed is on trailer for now. Yes, its going back on :toothless
So now that the bed is off, the maintenance can begin.
#1, rear tank runs out of fuel at ľ tank. Pulled the sending unit and sure enough, the strainer has broken off the bottom!
Pulled the front sending unit because it always read empty, and found a cracked float full of diesel
(float already removed)
Sending units for the diesels are pretty pricey, but fortunately, parts are not! So i ordered a new float for the front, and strainer for the back off Amazon, and got them both fixed
Next up was to remove the front spring hangars as they are toast
From there i needle-scaled, wire-wheeled, and then primed the whole back half of the frame
Then Thursday i finally got a coat of paint on it :thumbup
New spring hangars from Dorman
Installed new spring bushings as well
Made a new tailpipe hangar to replace the broken one
...and a new trailer hitch! Curt Class V, #15300. Got it on RockAuto for $180, cant beat that price for a class V hitch. And it is BEEF too, really nice heavy duty hitch.
Unfortunately that pretty much gets me up to date, as it has been pouring non-stop for days now :duh
I still need to fix the trailer hitch wiring as i damaged it when i removed the bumper :brownbag but aside from that the repairs are done, which means as soon as the weather improves, the mods can begin!
You should replace the rear tank with a Bronco tank for extra capacity. I had all the parts ready to do it when I sold my '95.
Considered it. But its only ~2 years old, cant bring myself to replace a new tank. Plus since i only put 3k miles on it last year, the extra capacity really isnt needed these days. I use it more for hauling dirt/stone/wood/steel etc than i do pulling the trailer.
Good to see your working on the 250 again. Canít wait to pull mine apart and paint underneath. What you paint the frame with?
The exhaust is pretty tight to that corner. Its actually why i opted for a replacement steel tank instead of plastic; was concerned the heat from the tailpipe would melt the tank.
The frame is nothing special, just rustoleum primer & paint. Maybe one day when i get around to repairing the cab, ill POR15 the whole thing but for now this will do.
Im happy to be working on it; not being my DD ive kind of just ignored some of this stuff, so its nice to have it all fixed. Plus ive got more parts for it yet in the garage, if itll ever stop raining!
Yea, I went with plastic tanks. Put a piece of steel near that corner to act as some sort of heat shield. Hope it stops raining too, my 350 is sitting in the driveway with the front axle stripped down.
Reminds me of my 96 7.3l cclb 4x4. Had 33" MTs, tymar intake, ts6 chip from beans diesel, and 4" straightpipe exhaust. Was white with the gray tutone inset. Loved that truck, but it burnt to the ground right along with my blue bronco. Had just replaced the glow plugs and harness, and put on a brand new fomoco a.c. compressor. Only had 180k on the clock.
In my area, a nice 7.3 92-97 4x4 is 12,000 and up to 30k. I had to settle for a 351 powered f350.
That sucks! They are hard to find these days. Most in this area are rotted out. Mine already needs a cab corner; hopefully i can get the bronco done and get to this before its too late.
So i have a small update: rain sucks. It wont stop! We got ~12" of rain last week, with more coming next week :banghead
So i do have some real progress, but thanks to mother nature its been slow.
Youre probably wondering why i lifted the bed to do all that work, when i couldve done it all w/o removing it. Well, it has something to do with this:
Youre looking at a 2ton hydraulic dump conversion kit :cool:
It converts the stock truck bed into a covert dump bed, which is pretty awesome. Bought it last fall and with working on the green bronco never got around to installing it until now.
It came with a ton of Gr8 hardware
a whole bunch of wires, connectors, 200a circuit breaker, hydraulic hose & fittings, all sorts of parts
the pump is a pretty nice piece, and has a built in 3qt resevoir. Its designed to run on ATF which is convenient.
So here's where i goofed. This kit is a 'universal' kit because it fits like 20 years of these trucks. As i later discovered, there was a specific kit available direct from the manufacturer (Pierce Arrow, Inc) that wouldve worked better, but oh well. The primary difference is in the hinges, anyway, which ill get to in a moment.
So i need to notch the end of the frame for clearance for the hinge. This is the point of no return, as im also cutting off the hole for the rearmost bed bolt.
Then on Thursday the rain broke long enough for some buddies to swing by and help set the bed back on the frame so i can begin!
So lets talk about that hinge.
This is how its designed. One bracket that bolts inside the frame, one that bolts to the bed, and a 5/8 Gr8 bolt for a hinge pin
Frame side bracket. Not thrilled with this piece. The bushing is a nut with the threads drilled out, but its oversize so the bolt is sloppy
Bed-side bracket. has this angle iron tab that extends forward to tie into the next forward bed xmember. Good idea, but it doesnt fit on the 92-97 bed, so its gotta go
so here's the new bed half. Not a fan of this as the hole on this is also oversize so the bolt is sloppy.
At this point i figure i had two options. Use their hinge and upgrade to a 3/4" bolt for a hinge pin, or just build my own hinges. So i looked it up. According to this page, a 5/8 Gr8 bolt has a shear strength of 27,920lbs! Clearly i dont need a 3/4" bolt for the hinge, and the 5/8 will fit in the space better. So i guess im making new hinges!
Ok, gotta make some spacers. Carbide holesaw in 3/8" plate
New hinge, with spacer welded in place. All 3/8"
Installed on frame. Unlike theirs, mine uses all existing holes in the frame. Also of note, i need to finish trimming the frame. That notch is required for room for the hinge to pivot.
...and the comparison between mine & theirs. IMO, mine is far superior.
So now i need to build the bed-side half of the hinge. Well, i scrounged up some more 3/8" plate that im going to use to build them this week. I really liked the idea of making the hinge double shear, but there just isnt any room under there to do it with the hinges built as such; i might have to make a second spacer to weld to the inside of each frame-side hinge, but these will most likely need to be 1/2" in order to space them far enough away that they will not interfere with the bed bolt. So my goal for next week is going to be to finish the hinges, as long as mother nature cuts me some slack!
One thing i want to say. Im not trying to bash on Pierce-Arrow. These guys have been building these kits for, as far as i can tell, 15-20 years, and everyone loves them. No complaints from anyone on the parts that ive found, which tells me that if their sloppy single-shear hinge is good, then mine will be better. Also, it doesnt have to be double shear, but if i can i want to do it, just cuz i can. The scissor for the hyd cylinder seems like a nice piece, as does the pump, and the wiring & hardware kits are both nice as well. So basically, my only complaint with it is the hinge, which will soon be resolved.
Hey Kevin nice job on the hinge. When I built the Hood hinge on Large Marge I use the drilled out threaded bolt method. you would think a large company like this would have another method. When you were cleaning your frame you had mentioned a needle scaler. I've never used one do they work good enough to justify the price.
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Thanks. Yeah youd think a big Co. would have been able to build something a little more robust and nicer looking, but maybe im just wayyyyy over-engineering it too. Im currently hanging out with the little guy, but im gonna head out there later while he's napping and start building the other half, so maybe pics tomorrow. I think im gonna go 3/8" again, and try for double shear. We'll see. Its gonna be overbuilt for sure :toothless
Dude, if you havent used a needle scaler, you are missing out. I use em at work all the time, so had to get one for myself. I needle-scaled/wire wheeled/primed the entire back half of the passenger frame rail (~9' of frame rail) in about an hour. They will strip scale ~1/4" thick like its nothing, and not damage the clean steel underneath. You need a big air compressor though, i have a homebuilt 220v 3HP and it can barely keep up. If i had a bigger compressor i couldve gotten it done even faster.
I, like you, tend to over build things. That being said, are you sure you built it heavy enough? I think I woulda gone with a 1" bolt on the pivots, and maybe a thicker spacer.
Looking pretty cool! Like owning a jackhammer or chainsaw, all that dump bed means is work haha
So all that holds the bed is those small brackets and bolts. What’s the dump bed rated for.
Originally the hinge has that brace that extends forward to tie into the next bed xmember. But it doesnt fit so i cut it off. once the hinges are done and the bed can be tilted up, ill build all sorts of braces under there to stiffen it up.
The kit is designed to lift 2 ton, which is more than the truck can carry. So no worries about ever overloading it :thumbup
Yeah i know :toothless
Their hinge is 3/8, which is why im building mine out of 3/8. But i figured out how to make mine double shear, so i probably couldve done 1/4 at that point but whatever :toothless At least this way, the hinges will outlast the rest of the truck :toothless
If all goes well, ill have one hinge done and the second mostly done, today. So maybe pics later or tomorrow, nothing worthwhile to post yet.
Made some progress yesterday!
So here's the frame side hinge installed. The plan for the bed side is to have two tabs that come down, one on each side. So i cut two tabs & when i went to put them in, i realized the inner would have to be spaced fairly far away, in order to have clearance for the nut that holds the hinge to the original bed mounting bolt.
Obviously im not going to use a ton of washers, so i scrounged around the garage to try and find anything i could use, to make a spacer. I found my solution, in an old broken Dana 70 shaft!
Turns out theyre only case hardened, so it was actually pretty easy to drill
Made two while i was at it, and welded one to the first hinge
The rough idea. You can see the nut for the bed bolt hidden way up there
And the finished bed-side hinge
I am intentionally leaving that heavy tab off the side for now, so i have something to add bed bracing to later on, once the bed tilts. It will most likely get trimmed down at that point.
So, i want to be able to grease this thing. But, when the bumper goes back on, the hinge will be totally hidden. So instead of adding grease fittings to the hinge, im adding them to the bolt.
So of course its currently raining and looks like its gonna all day, so probably wont get anything done today at all.
I already need a couple yards of stone for where i park the trucks, and ive got some low spots in the yard i need to re-grade. Plus, i have 8 black walnut trees, so every year i haul an entire truck load of walnuts out of here :crazy So having this thing done and operational for this fall is gonna save me & my back a ton of time/effort :toothless
Damn black walnuts... tasty, but so messy, and they drip that nasty sap on anything sitting beneath. The house I grew up in literally had about 100 of em
Ugh man i know. Grew up with a huge one in the back yard. This place we've got 8 of em, so messy. The spotted lanternflys are wreaking havoc on them though, so not sure im going to get too many nuts from them this year.
This is the stock bed bolt. This is the only one that came apart, all the others got destroyed. Im not reusing them.
Instead i used a small wire cup brush in a die grinder to cut a nice round hole in the bed liner. Then used said die grinder to open the hole up a bit, and slid a piece of 1" pipe down in there to beef the area up. The other side the bed is messed up, so its not nearly as clean a job.
Conveniently a 3/4" SAE washer fits the hole perfectly. Currently have 3/4" bolts down thru, but i have Gr8 carriage bolts on order.
Both hinges done!
Had to cut off the exhaust, no chance of everything fitting under there with that massive muffler
Frame-side hinge for the hydraulic scissor
Bed-side hinge installed. Thought i had apic of it before installation but i guess not.
I made sandwich plates to back up the bed xmembers so they cant crush in
The hydraulic scissor
...and installed! This was a huge PITA to do by myself
Hydraulic pump installed on frame rail
Building the wiring harness for it. Its power up, gravity down. Its a pretty simple system, and it came with plenty of wire to do the job.
200a circuit breaker installed on fender. Its power source is below it; a 300a winch relay, that i use for my remote winch wiring. So, flip a switch on the dash to energize system, and then flip switch to run dump bed. This way i only have live power lines running down the frame rail when its in use.
pump all wired up!
Not pictured is the installed hydraulic hose. Need to figure out if i can cut it down, or make tabs to hold it up cuz its so long it lays on the driveshaft :duh
pause for dramatic effect :goodfinge
It works! :rockon
So, whats left?
So its in and works, but theres still lots of things to do before i can call this project complete.
Holy crap, finally an update. This weather is nuts, it has rained every single day except i think sunday; took me all day to mow the jungle that was my yard! So i have updates. I was waiting until i was done to post, since ive basically been running outside in breaks between rainstorms to get stuff done.
So for heavy use they recommend adding a brace, from the xmember the hydraulics bolt to, to the xmember under the cab to stiffen it up.
Next up is wireless control. I bought this from Harbor Freight
the case comes apart; its got a nice rubber seal in there
Its a standard 5-pin winch connector on the end. Only uses 4 pins. Power in, ground, and 2 power out. Well, thats eay enough to wire up! Cut the end off, hardwired it to the winch solenoids, and mounted the box on the frame
The range is impressive; its like 60-70'! More than ill ever need. And since the system has a kill switch on the main power, theres no concern from a rogue signal making the bed move on its own :toothless Speaking of wiring; ive finished all of it. The winch relay has the same kill switch on the dash it always had, and i put the supplied toggle switch next to it, for a backup in case the wireless remote quits.
Also, as it would turn out, the exhaust fits! Barely, but it fits.
Ok, filler necks!
Well, they bolt to the bed. But they cant since the bed moves. So Pierce Arrow wants you to build a brace and aim them both into the wheel wells to fill the tanks. Lame! So i came up with a (arguably) better solution.
Starting on the rear neck
Built this, which didnt work :toothless The fender strut hit it.
Had to cut the hole for the filler wide open, but you cant see it with the filler door closed anyway
This actually works; the bed can go up and it holds the neck in place; when the bed comes down it guides the neck right into place :cool:
The front was much more challenging. The bed full on collides with the neck and pushes it down.
So this is what i came up with
It holds the neck right where it needs to be. But, because the bed hits the neck on the way down, you have to hold the neck up and tuck it behind the fender as it comes down. Then the bracket guides the neck into place:
No way around that one, w/o cutting a notch in the bottom of the fender to clear the neck, which i think would look dumb.
Ok so then i got to looking at the bumper. Well, no chance in hell of the stock bumper going back on. The bumper has to tilt with the bed, and there is just no room with the trailer hitch there.
Mockup with a pice of 2*4 to simulate a bumper:
Im going to have to build my own rear bumper, and its going to have to be small, so it clears everything. I also still need to re-do the water/meth injection & move my CB antenna, but i think that might be it!
Ok, so weve got 4 main projects left to finish this thing. Gotta solve the bumper problem, fix trailer plug wiring, rewire/plumb the water/meth injection, and relocate the CB antenna. Well, ive got 2/4 done now :thumbup
All this work on the bed; so i decided to work on the bumper.
Since its got to pivot with the bed, i started building brackets to attach to the hinges
One bracket done, shown attached to the bed-side half of one of the hinges. It attahces to the 5/8 hinge pin, plus 2 bolts up thru the hinge and into the bed. Should be sufficient.
Both brackets done, + hinges finally in paint!
Now to design a bumper.
Bought a piece of unequal angle (3x4) from the scrap steel yard to begin mockup for a bumper
So heres the rough idea
Seems awfully small, but with the bed tilted, you can see its a tight fit
No room for a license plate on the bumper
Trimming the corners
Adding a piece of 2" plate to the bottom
Now its starting to look like something
All done and ground
For lack of a better place, i put rivnuts in the tailgate, to hang the plate off it. This gate is beat up anyway, so not too upset about drilling holes in it
All done & painted!
While i was waiting for it to dry, i fixed my trailer wiring. Turns out Clips & Fasteners sells replacement pins for Ford Wedgelock connectors. Male + female, and both the large and small pins. They get crimped on using the same tool as weatherpaks do, which i already have. Since i had broken wires i cut all of them back to fresh copper and repinned all of them
So all thats left is to bolt it on, and its done!
Its a tight fit against the hitch
Look closely, youll see the bumper brackets all but touch the hitch, and there is actually a vertical groove in the bumper to clear the hitch. Its tight!
The bumper is a little smaller than id prefer, but as big as i can make it. Overall i think its looks pretty good on there though. So thats two more items off the list! So next week i need to tackle the water/meth injection, move my CB antenna, and then i think im done :rockon
Made some progress on the water/meth injection :cool:
My wiring harness uses 7 wires, so rather than build an extension, i bought 7 wire trailer harness
More OEM wedgelok pins being put to use
Original harness on the frame
...and the new extension plugged in and looking OEM
The harness runs up the bed here. Next to it is a hydraulic hose connected to some 3/8 stainless tube via some swagelok fittings for the water.
The route up the bed.
Another OEM connector, where my extension harness ends in the toolbox. In the top left you can see where the tubing enters the box. 100% stainless tube from the bed hinge to the toolbox.
The original toolbox harness modified with a mating wedgelok connector installed
...and the whole water/meth system is now reinstalled and done!
I turned the system on to check for errors and didnt find any, so i removed/cleaned the injector and then purged the system. Holy shit i think were done!!! I still need to find a place to relocate my CB antenna to, but aside from that she's 100% done! :rockon :rockon
After sitting for 7 weeks under a black walnut tree the truck needs to go to the carwash pretty badly, so i guess thatll be my test drive to see how badly the bed rattles around :toothless The kit comes with these guides to keep the front of the bed aligned with the cab, but i never installed them because my hinges are so much more sturdy than the ones that came with the kit, and the bed doesnt flop around like it woudve with their hinges. So we'll see after the test drive (hopefully tomorrow) if i need to put them on or not.
So the dump bed works pretty awesome :rockon
You cant really tell, but theres a yard of stone in the bed.
I didnt shoot any vid of it dumping, didnt think of it at time, was more concered with watching it, since a yard of stone is ~2600lbs. ive used it a couple times now, it is super awesome :toothless
The green tailgate presented a problem though. It was a necessity as my original tailgate got smashed, but its bowed pretty badly, and i was losing stone on the way home. So, i dug out a shell ive had kicking around, and decided to see what i could do with it.
This one was also green, so i sanded it and then rattled it with some red primer, then sanded again
Starting to lay color. Again, all rattle can as i dont own a spray gun, and wasnt going to buy one, just to spray a tailgate
Couple coats of clear later, starting to look better
Some more wet sanding and some wax, and this i what i ended up with
Not too bad for rattle can, if i do say so myself!!
hardware from my gate going in
...and the finished product!
Considering its all rattle can, i think the end result ended up pretty good, even tho its slightly off-color. its still way better than green, and this gate is actually straight :toothless
So from here i moved on to two other projects.
#1, front brakes!
Power Stop carbon-ceramic pads, and their rotors as well. Havent driven it yet, we'll see tomorrow if they work any better than the crap Autozone brakes that were on there before.
#2, bumper mods.
I really couldnt bring myself to drill 4 holes in my shiny new tailgate, so i had to find a different place to put the license plate. So here we go!
and fit it here:
clears the hitch with plenty of room :thumbup
then i drilled some holes
...and reinstalled the OEM plate lamps, after i painted them to match the bumper
Hopefully this is the last of the work to this thing for the year, as my other projects are piling up!
2600 lbs!? It's barely squatting! I had a bunch of limestone cobble in my 95 f250 and it was squatting so bad that there was not enough weight on the front to steer properly. That was a single cab 4x4 with a 460 and front add a leafs too. Of course the cobble was piled to the top of the bedrails, so it had a ton of weight on it. Wonder how much it actually weighted...
Loved this truck, but sold it for a 7.3 f350.
dude! that's awesome work and I really appreciate you sharing the build with us. I would LOVE to have my old F250 flatbed setup to dump and now I have a pretty good idea what to do if I could ever afford to make that happen. The tailgate looks outstanding for a driveway, rattle can paint match too. Hell... give it a few months of regular use and the average joe probably wouldn't have a clue. Just looks and apparently functions like a real pro job. :beer :thumbup
:beer I was a little skeptical when i first got the kit, but then once i tore into it, it wasnt too bad. Of course, knowing now that i actually bought the universal kit instead of the vehicle specific one, it couldve been easier :duh
Im hoping the paint on the gate holds up, paint from a rattle can is kind of soft compared to automotive paint. The next time im spraying bed liner im going to mask off and spray the inside of the gate to match the rest of the bed, so it doesnt matter if the paint on the inside gets beat up.
General consensus is a yard of stone is 2600-3000#. The truck is squatting 1Ĺ-2" :toothless 15 year old 6" Skyjacker leafs in the back, they are no joke. Here's a skid of wood pellets for the garage, thats 2000# right there:
The extra weight of the PSD definitely helps keep it handling well when loaded down.
This site lists weights of various construction materials. They spec a yard of bluestone at 2970# Limestone cobble is about the same. Id say you had a wee bit more than one yard in there :toothless Long bed will fit 2 yards but thats a ton of weight, more than id rather carry in a stock box.
just messin' around but I wonder how much that stack of treated 4x4 weigh'd in around. :toothless
it was not a wise move and was a nerve racking, 1.5 hr. drive home on mostly backroads to avoid the highway.
had a leaf *pop* going around a corner that nearly made me crap my pants, so I had to pull over to check the load, the truck... and my pants. :goodfinge
More weight then me id say. 4x4x8 is ~40 lbs, so if you have 50 of em thats 2k#, plus the other materials you had. Its a lot of weight for any truck!
I am jealous of the flat bed, i kind of want one instead of a stock box. I like the fold down sides they have on the utility style beds though, which i would need anyways for hauling dirt/stone/yard waste. How much does that bed weigh? Stock 8' bed is ~600# im told. My bumper is lighter than a stock bumper, plus all the weight i added for the dump conversion, im ~80-100# heavier than i was before.
I want that hoist you have in in your bed floor too, those things are cool.
I'm totally clueless on that beds weight, since I bought the truck with it. Steel flatbed though, so it's not light. It's gotta be at least 800 lbs., if not 1k with the headache rack and bumper/tow-hitch/step area. Side rails are easy enough to fab up for different needs but I'd need a pretty heavy duty hyd setup to lift that bed, along with the large loads it's capable of handling. The hoist w/a re-enforced, double tube stand (I bent the first one) and a 3k winch setup has been outstanding to have and has helped me load up everything from dual snowmobiles to boulders and even dragging 8' log lengths, stacked on the flatbed and even in the trailer hauled behind it. It's been a major back saver and was more than worth the effort to setup. I couldn't pass it up, since the flatbed was already setup with that re-enforced, sunken mounting hole for it. Can you even imagine a short, gimpy dude like me loading up a haul like this, by myself. No way in hell. Would have been a lot easier to unload though... with a dumper flat-bed. :toothless
Both have their pros/cons for sure but I've always wanted a flatbed for the versatility. That said... I love the "sleeper" kinda deal you have going with the stock bed dump lift. I'm sure you'll come up with all kinds of uses over the coming years you hadn't even considered yet. I know I have. :thumbup
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