just recently got my own CCSB in need of a restortion picked her up for 800$
Got some new tires on Tuesday!
Found a local shop that could get 35" BFGs for my 16.5s, so I ordered a set.
ive missed these tires! The Goodyears were ok, but performance-wise, these tires are phenomenal. For those that remember, I used to run these, but then for a while a few years back no one could get any. I thought they were disco-d (like most other 16.5s) and gone forever (which is when I switched to the 37s), but these days theres plenty of em out there. So I happily jumped on the chance to get another set. Only been on a couple days, but man I love em :rockon
And for a little bit of tech, I have them balanced with Counteract Balancing Beads, which are basically the same thing as Equal (you can get them on Ebay). Little glass beads inside the tire. Glass is nice because it wont get all clumpy from moisture like the cheaper ones that are basically sand. I used 12oz bags which is a bit much, probably could've gotten away with 10oz, but a little extra doesn't hurt. They are smooth as glass on the highway :smokin:
I like those tires to, there is a reason there pretty much unchanged since the beginning. Any reason you went with beads instead of weights, not the big if a tire to not be able to balance.
I talked a friend into buying a set of 33x12.5x6.5 for his ram 3500. They are good tires and last forever. As far as the beads go though, I don't care for wheel weights either.
I agree, they are awesome tires. My last set I got 58k out of them, and they were awesome right to the end. So happy to have another set.
I went with beads primarily because I always bead balance, but also because while ive lost wheel weights in the past, this way they will always be perfectly balanced, til the day they are bald and thrown away.
I can honestly say that the bfg km2 mt's are a damn good tire too. Very impressed with the performance and they hold up great to.
Never though of it that way, maybe ill have to try it on my next tires.
Woah an update!
So here we are, 3 years later. Everything still works!
Sort of, anyway :toothless
This thing needs some TLC tho, so here we go!!
Step one, remove tailgate & bumper:
Step two, remove rotted out, worn out trailer hitch:
Locate bed bolts in bed liner (this part sucks)
This one was particularly stubborn, had to cut bottom of bolt off. They have an interesting shoulder on them so as to not crush the bed when torqued down; also means they must come out the top even when the head is cut off :duh
Front-left bolt. Another stubborn one. This one i had to cut the nut off with a die grinder, due to how close it is to the fuel & brake lines
This is a fun job to do. 5 out of 6 bed bolts fought me, and ended up getting cut. Im still going to have to deal with this later!
So much scale falling on me the whole time too.
Then a couple buddies stopped by, and this happened!
Bed is on trailer for now. Yes, its going back on :toothless
So now that the bed is off, the maintenance can begin.
#1, rear tank runs out of fuel at ľ tank. Pulled the sending unit and sure enough, the strainer has broken off the bottom!
Pulled the front sending unit because it always read empty, and found a cracked float full of diesel
(float already removed)
Sending units for the diesels are pretty pricey, but fortunately, parts are not! So i ordered a new float for the front, and strainer for the back off Amazon, and got them both fixed
Next up was to remove the front spring hangars as they are toast
From there i needle-scaled, wire-wheeled, and then primed the whole back half of the frame
Then Thursday i finally got a coat of paint on it :thumbup
New spring hangars from Dorman
Installed new spring bushings as well
Made a new tailpipe hangar to replace the broken one
...and a new trailer hitch! Curt Class V, #15300. Got it on RockAuto for $180, cant beat that price for a class V hitch. And it is BEEF too, really nice heavy duty hitch.
Unfortunately that pretty much gets me up to date, as it has been pouring non-stop for days now :duh
I still need to fix the trailer hitch wiring as i damaged it when i removed the bumper :brownbag but aside from that the repairs are done, which means as soon as the weather improves, the mods can begin!
You should replace the rear tank with a Bronco tank for extra capacity. I had all the parts ready to do it when I sold my '95.
Considered it. But its only ~2 years old, cant bring myself to replace a new tank. Plus since i only put 3k miles on it last year, the extra capacity really isnt needed these days. I use it more for hauling dirt/stone/wood/steel etc than i do pulling the trailer.
Good to see your working on the 250 again. Canít wait to pull mine apart and paint underneath. What you paint the frame with?
The exhaust is pretty tight to that corner. Its actually why i opted for a replacement steel tank instead of plastic; was concerned the heat from the tailpipe would melt the tank.
The frame is nothing special, just rustoleum primer & paint. Maybe one day when i get around to repairing the cab, ill POR15 the whole thing but for now this will do.
Im happy to be working on it; not being my DD ive kind of just ignored some of this stuff, so its nice to have it all fixed. Plus ive got more parts for it yet in the garage, if itll ever stop raining!
Yea, I went with plastic tanks. Put a piece of steel near that corner to act as some sort of heat shield. Hope it stops raining too, my 350 is sitting in the driveway with the front axle stripped down.
Reminds me of my 96 7.3l cclb 4x4. Had 33" MTs, tymar intake, ts6 chip from beans diesel, and 4" straightpipe exhaust. Was white with the gray tutone inset. Loved that truck, but it burnt to the ground right along with my blue bronco. Had just replaced the glow plugs and harness, and put on a brand new fomoco a.c. compressor. Only had 180k on the clock.
In my area, a nice 7.3 92-97 4x4 is 12,000 and up to 30k. I had to settle for a 351 powered f350.
That sucks! They are hard to find these days. Most in this area are rotted out. Mine already needs a cab corner; hopefully i can get the bronco done and get to this before its too late.
So i have a small update: rain sucks. It wont stop! We got ~12" of rain last week, with more coming next week :banghead
So i do have some real progress, but thanks to mother nature its been slow.
Youre probably wondering why i lifted the bed to do all that work, when i couldve done it all w/o removing it. Well, it has something to do with this:
Youre looking at a 2ton hydraulic dump conversion kit :cool:
It converts the stock truck bed into a covert dump bed, which is pretty awesome. Bought it last fall and with working on the green bronco never got around to installing it until now.
It came with a ton of Gr8 hardware
a whole bunch of wires, connectors, 200a circuit breaker, hydraulic hose & fittings, all sorts of parts
the pump is a pretty nice piece, and has a built in 3qt resevoir. Its designed to run on ATF which is convenient.
So here's where i goofed. This kit is a 'universal' kit because it fits like 20 years of these trucks. As i later discovered, there was a specific kit available direct from the manufacturer (Pierce Arrow, Inc) that wouldve worked better, but oh well. The primary difference is in the hinges, anyway, which ill get to in a moment.
So i need to notch the end of the frame for clearance for the hinge. This is the point of no return, as im also cutting off the hole for the rearmost bed bolt.
Then on Thursday the rain broke long enough for some buddies to swing by and help set the bed back on the frame so i can begin!
So lets talk about that hinge.
This is how its designed. One bracket that bolts inside the frame, one that bolts to the bed, and a 5/8 Gr8 bolt for a hinge pin
Frame side bracket. Not thrilled with this piece. The bushing is a nut with the threads drilled out, but its oversize so the bolt is sloppy
Bed-side bracket. has this angle iron tab that extends forward to tie into the next forward bed xmember. Good idea, but it doesnt fit on the 92-97 bed, so its gotta go
so here's the new bed half. Not a fan of this as the hole on this is also oversize so the bolt is sloppy.
At this point i figure i had two options. Use their hinge and upgrade to a 3/4" bolt for a hinge pin, or just build my own hinges. So i looked it up. According to this page, a 5/8 Gr8 bolt has a shear strength of 27,920lbs! Clearly i dont need a 3/4" bolt for the hinge, and the 5/8 will fit in the space better. So i guess im making new hinges!
Ok, gotta make some spacers. Carbide holesaw in 3/8" plate
New hinge, with spacer welded in place. All 3/8"
Installed on frame. Unlike theirs, mine uses all existing holes in the frame. Also of note, i need to finish trimming the frame. That notch is required for room for the hinge to pivot.
...and the comparison between mine & theirs. IMO, mine is far superior.
So now i need to build the bed-side half of the hinge. Well, i scrounged up some more 3/8" plate that im going to use to build them this week. I really liked the idea of making the hinge double shear, but there just isnt any room under there to do it with the hinges built as such; i might have to make a second spacer to weld to the inside of each frame-side hinge, but these will most likely need to be 1/2" in order to space them far enough away that they will not interfere with the bed bolt. So my goal for next week is going to be to finish the hinges, as long as mother nature cuts me some slack!
One thing i want to say. Im not trying to bash on Pierce-Arrow. These guys have been building these kits for, as far as i can tell, 15-20 years, and everyone loves them. No complaints from anyone on the parts that ive found, which tells me that if their sloppy single-shear hinge is good, then mine will be better. Also, it doesnt have to be double shear, but if i can i want to do it, just cuz i can. The scissor for the hyd cylinder seems like a nice piece, as does the pump, and the wiring & hardware kits are both nice as well. So basically, my only complaint with it is the hinge, which will soon be resolved.
Hey Kevin nice job on the hinge. When I built the Hood hinge on Large Marge I use the drilled out threaded bolt method. you would think a large company like this would have another method. When you were cleaning your frame you had mentioned a needle scaler. I've never used one do they work good enough to justify the price.
Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
Thanks. Yeah youd think a big Co. would have been able to build something a little more robust and nicer looking, but maybe im just wayyyyy over-engineering it too. Im currently hanging out with the little guy, but im gonna head out there later while he's napping and start building the other half, so maybe pics tomorrow. I think im gonna go 3/8" again, and try for double shear. We'll see. Its gonna be overbuilt for sure :toothless
Dude, if you havent used a needle scaler, you are missing out. I use em at work all the time, so had to get one for myself. I needle-scaled/wire wheeled/primed the entire back half of the passenger frame rail (~9' of frame rail) in about an hour. They will strip scale ~1/4" thick like its nothing, and not damage the clean steel underneath. You need a big air compressor though, i have a homebuilt 220v 3HP and it can barely keep up. If i had a bigger compressor i couldve gotten it done even faster.
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