Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
D60/10.25 brake question: Is there some sort of adapter I can get so I can use the extended lines from a 94 on the 1 ton calipers? If not, what are the part numbers for some front and rear lines that will work. I'm going with the stock dual flex lines up front.

D60/10.25 yoke question: This is the part that I'm most confused about. My understanding is that the driveshaft pattern is different from the D60/10.25 yoke. Because of this I need to get a new yoke and swap it in the 60/10.25 when I do gears? Where/what should I look to get for a new yoke? Could I just get an F350 driveshaft?

Also, do I NEED an f350 booster and master cylinder or will the stock be sufficient?
They are direct bolt ins as well, correct?

Another question just came to me, the F350 steering will bolt onto my drop pitman arm, correct?

Anything else I should snag from the 350 that could be of use?
 

·
Administrator
2012 Jeep JKU
Joined
·
22,859 Posts
did you try and bolt them to the brake calipers yet?...I thought I would have to get new brake lines when I switched to chevy eight lug fronts but the line fit perfect on the chevy caliper.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't have the axles yet. I'm getting them in a couple weeks. I just assumed that the 1 ton fittings were different because the extended lines are supposedly only for F150/Broncos.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,108 Posts
I reused my lines when I put in the D60. the were the procomp 6" lift type.
I would also recomend the boster/master swap. You wont belive how much better your brakes work.
As far as yokes go I used the original one on the front D60. The rear has to be changed on the 10.25 if its a '91 or older which is called the short pinion. if you have a '92 or newer it will have a long pinion already. all the new gear sets are for the long pinion type. My axles were from a '90.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, thats what I wanted to hear.
So the mc/booster swap isn't necessary for the 1 ton brakes, just highly recommended? I might pass on it for now and do it at a later date if possible.
 

·
Rest in Peace Friend...
Joined
·
3,220 Posts
Kal, some things I've found out on my 1-ton swap. I'm using the D60 front/Sterling 10.25" rear from an 88 F350, along with the 460/C6/Bw 13-56 manual shift. Since the t-case had a slipyoke rear output, I swapped it to a fixxed yoke from an 88 Bronco elec. shift 13-56, which uses a smaller u-joint than the Sterling. I thought it would be possible to just swap the slip yoke on the rear bronco driveshaft with the one from the F350, but the shaft diameters are different. And I found that t-case yokes from any F-series pick-up will not fit a Bronco driveshaft, or vica versa. My final solution is just to build a rear driveshaft out of square tubing with the different-sized yokes and u-joints on each end. I had the front F350 driveshaft rebuilt for $305. It's not only 3-4" too short, but doesn't have hardly any range of motion in the DC joint. Plus, the slip shaft only has 3-4" of movement, which I don't think is enough. It also hits the tranny crossmember. Plan to build a square ds for the front, too. My 84 Bronco is offroad only, but a square ds can be made to run on the street without much vibration. There are some threads on notching the x-mbr, squaree driveshafts, and t-case swaps in the forums. Just keep searching, JSM84

Edit: I also swapped to a reman. F350 MC/booster from Rock Auto, along with all new brake lines and hardware. It's a good time to replace the old lines, and I even have a tech write-up on making your own. I'm using a SkyJ braided line in the rear for a center drop to the axle, and an Earl's braided line for the front, with new oem hoses at the calipers. I added a JEG's proportioning valve, too. My advice is to go ahead and swap the MC/booster, since it's so simple and will improve the braking. Don't waste your time making your own lines. They're cheap enough to buy at O'Reilly's already pre-made in various lengths. use a brake line bender tool to fit them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm actually doing the swap on an F150 so it sounds like the driveshaft will fit? Would I really even need it? I just replaced all my brake lines a little over a yer ago and the extened lines are a few months old. The hard lines that go to the master cylinder have the same fittings are the 1/2 ton/bronco fittings, correct?
 

·
Rest in Peace Friend...
Joined
·
3,220 Posts
I'm actually doing the swap on an F150 so it sounds like the driveshaft will fit? Would I really even need it? I just replaced all my brake lines a little over a yer ago and the extened lines are a few months old. The hard lines that go to the master cylinder have the same fittings are the 1/2 ton/bronco fittings, correct?
Even the driveshafts from the F-150 may not fit your 1-ton axle yokes, since the 1-tons use a bigger u-joint. you may be able to find a "conversion" u-jonit with two different-sized caps that will work. Just depends on how hard you plan to wheel the rig, and what part you want to fail first- the u-joint or the yoke or something else in the driveline. AS for the brake lines, while they may fit the MC, they may not fit your stock proportioning valve. you can either replace the line with ones with the proper fitting or use adapters. I only had to make one or two lines, those that went to the MC. One fitting is 3/8" and the other is 7/16". Since I used the JEG's prop valve, I only have to worry about one line going to it from the MC (rear line). The front line goes directly to the flex hose drop on the D60, then splits off to both sides from a T-fitting.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top