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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i kno to put a 10.25 in that you need to shorten the driveshaft.....my question is the guys who have done it....how short does it need to be? where do u exactlyl measure from? anyone runnin a detroit locker, and if so how much did u pay? my plan is to run 38's, i have 35's now and just ain't satisfied. i plan to go to 4.88 cuz i have the A4OD. i want that extra grunt since i have OD. but the grey area is how to measure for the length of driveshaft i will need, i have a guy that can build it and balance it for me.
 

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Call Me Ace
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did you search?
i know this has been covered a bunch in the SAS section
ace
 

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When I swapped in my rear 60, I just measured from the pinion yolk to the t-case yolk and gave that measurement to the driveshaft shop. They did the rest to make it the right length.
 

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or you can move the rear end back a couple inches like i did. That way if you break your drive shaft, they are available in a salvage yard.
 

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I had to cut 3" of my driveshaft when lifting the rear 8" and putting a sterling in. It was a little too short, If I had to do it again I would have cut about 2.25" off

don't take my word for it though. After the axle is in and the truck is on it measure yours
 

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best thing to do is ask the guy who is going to shorten and balance it for you. This way there is NO mistakes or misunderstandings. It is my understanding that you measure from end to end, inside of the cap (on the yoke) to inside of the yoke (yielding the furthest distance from each end).

:rant: When I did mine, I gave the driveshaft shop a picture clearly explaining how i got measurements. It was spelled out in clear retardese. I gave them center to center, and showedit on a piece of paper even, They were confused, could not figure out how to measure the driveshaft from the center of the caps. Finally I had to show them how I did it, and the guy gave me flack for measuring that way. I got irritated and said that "figureing this out isnt that hard, I want the shortened driveshaft to sit at XX inches center of cap to center of the cap, in a useable position. If you cant figure that out, and you cut it wrong, you are retubing the shaft, on your dollar." Suddenly they understood.

driveline shops are an overpriced joke. For 1/2 hour of time OR LESS, it costs $120 to do any driveline work, whether it be shortening, re-tubing, staring at it stupid.
 

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masterbeavis said:
best thing to do is ask the guy who is going to shorten and balance it for you.
Exactly what I was going to post. I'm suprised it took so long to get someone to post that.

Everyone measures differently. Don't believe me. Call your buddy and find out how he measures. Then call the local driveshaft builders and see how they measure. Then call Tom Woods and see how he measures.
 

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masterbeavis said:
driveline shops are an overpriced joke. For 1/2 hour of time OR LESS, it costs $120 to do any driveline work, whether it be shortening, re-tubing, staring at it stupid.
Really? I got mine shortened and balanced for $70.
 

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Yes, they cost that much to do. Around here this is rock crawling country. They are very proud of the 20 y.o. machines and jigs they use to perform the work, and the $10 an hour shop hand perfoming the manual labor. Hell, to have a new driveshaft made with a few upgrades will cost you over $500. I've talked to folks elsewhere and say we get assraped. He can get the same stuff I have been quoted 1K to have built, for $3-400. We are victims of supply and demand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well all these issues will be disscussed with my buddy who knows the guy...i appreciate all ya'lls input........rock on!!!
 

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I found the best way to figure the lenght is to mesure before you tear it down. then when done, mesure the same way agean, and subtract the diference.
 

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jam0o0 said:
this is a bit of a diversion but if you had acsess to a lathe and could weld could you shorten your own drive shaft?

or is there somethign i'm missing
Nothing wrong with doing it yourself aside from knowing some tricks so you dont shake your truck apart.

The first issue is you need some sort of jig to keep the driveline in phase, and squared up. If you taka a look at a shaft, you will notice the caps on both ends line up perfectly. If you get somethign out of square, something will die in short order.

The second, if you do a rear shaft, you need to balance it to keep the vibrations down. I seen in a chiltons once a method that involved hose clamps, and running the truck in gear on jackstands yada yada yada. You probably wont have an issue with a front shaft, you wont be driving in 4WD Doing 80 on the freeway...
 
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