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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Figured I'd snap some pics to appease the pic whores around here (like myself :toothless ). Did I mention dialup really sucks?

Got the 14 bolt under the truck and 42" Iroks bolted on, I have the ubolts snugged up just enough to keep the axle from spinning, I've decided not to weld the leaf perches until I finish the Dana 60 install up front to make sure I have everything right where I want it. I'm gonna have to move the front rear-leaf spring hanger back a couple of inches to correct the horrible shackle angle from the Sky hangers w/ 6" Skyjacker leafs and recenter the axle (may move it back even further and use the rear posittion in the sky hanger to stretch the wheelbase), and I may remove the overload leaf from the rear pack to lower it down a little more and make it flexier. Need to look into this first to make sure it won't hurt the overall integrity of the leaf packs. Anyway, on with the pics.


Damn those 36's up front are tiny :toothless




Lots of room under there with no gas tank! looking like I'm gonna copy Reptillikus and put a 19 gallon truck tank up there flush with the frame rails to keep that clearance :rockon


A little further back, you can see I had to hack off the end of my exhaust where they turned out due to interference from the shackle flip. No biggie, will have to rework the exhaust when I install the doubler anyway.


Disc brake conversion.


Damn thats a lot of room! Still need to shave off some of that lip on the 14 bolt, but not a top priority at the moment.


Ubolt plates I made, this one is 1/2" plate with wings welded on, the other is 3/8" for now (didn't have any more 1/2" on hand). May actually step them up to something beefier at a later date, dunno.


HORRIBLE shackle angle after the flip... I have 6" skyjacker leafs, that is the stock shackle (do I have it on there backwards or does it matter? :scratchhe). Either way, like I said, moving the front hangers back to fix that (which means grinding more rivets, and drilling more holes in frame... :cry ).


Here is my new workspace, the left side of the barn is a heated / air conditioned workshop with a meat dryer and cooler for processing meat.


Inside the barn. Its quite cluttered right now. To the right of all that hay is where "the river runs through it"... Gonna have to fix that. Lower left, you can see my free NP203 waiting to be doubled to my NP205 :chili:


One last shot of the barn.


This is where we live now, right in the middle of BFE, where we like it.


Heres a shot overlooking the pond. I wish it wasn't so cloudy today.



Like our lawnmower? :toothless


Meet our horse Azale (Uh*Zah*Lee), she is a desert bred Arabian, bred for endurance racing.. Did you see the movie Hidalgo? Shes a little dirty right now (she likes to go muddin too)


Camera shy? Or giving me the cold shoulder? :scratchhe



Last but not least, my wife Jodi. She'll probably kill me for this, we've been working outside all day...


"I know you didn't EVEN really take my picture!" Who, me? :angel
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Crazed said:
If the front is gonna be anything like the rear, thats gonna be a biggun.
The rear is sitting too high right now, but exactly how much is hard to say because of the overall angle of the truck. I am going to jack up the front end to get the frame level, and see how much overall lift is there, then figure out where to go from there. In the end, I want about 10" of lift, no more. Right now, the shackle is almost completely verticle, once I get that fixed, it will drop some. That combined with removing the overload leaf in the spring pack should get me pretty close to 10". Then I will simply fab up the front to match (copying dogonmuts leaf swap with chevy leafs).

I will either be doing a pickup cab swap, or cutting the crap outta the fenders, haven't decided which. Originally I was set on the swap, but I think I may be able to make it work with the Bronco body (I don't want the body limiting my flex, but also don't want to go over 10" of lift). Nevertheless, its still gonna be a big one :toothless Hopefully will get started on the 60 next week... I'm trying my damnest to get everything done in time for the June M&G! On top of what I already mentioned for finishing the 14 bolt, I still have to:

* Install the Dana 60
* Put in a new gas tank
* Run new brake lines / upgrade booster and MC
* If my driveshafts will require modification (likely), I'll have to go ahead and get the doubler installed so I only have to do it once.
* Probably 100 other little things that aren't popping in my head right now.

No problem right? :toothless I think I'll be ready, as long as I can maintain the funds to finish.
 

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Sway's jealous of my
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I need to get regeared if i"m gonna make it to any m&g...

and sas...

and buy tires...

Bah!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Saurian said:
I need to get regeared if i"m gonna make it to any m&g...

and sas...

and buy tires...

Bah!
What gear ratio and what size tire you moving to? I'll be selling my D44 (4.56 w/ Detroit Electrac locker) and 36" swampers on MT Classic II rims very soon (as soon as I start the 60 swap).
 

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They call me "MR FLAT TIRE"
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4,642 Posts
JahWarrior said:

Disc brake conversion.
what caliper is that? I'm doing a 14B swap soon and am curious to what caliper I need.

what are you doing for parking brakes?

TIA for the info...:thumbup
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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8,744 Posts
woah, sweet!

I soooo want 42" Iroks :toothless Was plannin on orderin a set in another month or two, just gotta get a few minor things taken care of on the front-end.

My shackle angle out back improved when the front went up to match the rear. its decent now, but i also moved the sky bracket forward of the stock position.

Locopony, thats looks like the standard Chebby 3/4 ton rotor & el dorado caliper. You can get that caliper set up for a parking brake as well (using the rear caliper from the el dorado instead of the front).
 

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Engineer
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Cool pics the truck looks good
 

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Discussion Starter #15
locopny said:
what caliper is that? I'm doing a 14B swap soon and am curious to what caliper I need.

what are you doing for parking brakes?
The preferable caliper would probably be the 76-78 Cadillac Eldorado caliper, which accepts a parking brake cable (if you can find the brackets). I didn't feel like hunting down the brackets, and the calipers are more expensive, so I am just using some plain old K10 (pretty sure it was K10?) calipers w/ the 3/4 ton rotors. I got the brackets from http://www.greatlakeoffroad.com . I'll be installing a hyrdo line lock for emergency use (its not a real replacement for a mechanical parking brake) for now.

SUPERJUNK said:
Is that an H or an M???What year?All orig. or restored???Whats mounted on the front??
Its a Model H, I believe its a 51 (serial IHC 352988 X1). Its all original. On the front is some hydraulic stuff the PO installed, that is no longer used. Its a cool old tractor.

reptillikus said:
My shackle angle out back improved when the front went up to match the rear. its decent now, but i also moved the sky bracket forward of the stock position.
Hmmm.. this has me thinking. I was just looking around under the truck contemplating the pickup gas tank, and it dawned on me you moved your Sky bracket forward, where mine is in the stock position (I will move the front hangers back instead).. I wonder if I will still be able to flip the rear crossmember and move it back without interference from the hanger bolts? :scratchhe
 

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Sway's jealous of my
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2,856 Posts
I think your front is a little too close, you probably do need to move the front hanger back more then you need to move the rear shackle hanger forward. Doesn't look like you need much, either. Would moving the front hanger back 2.25-2.5" sound about right? Hard to guess looking at pictures off center..but that's about what it looks like to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Saurian said:
I think your front is a little too close, you probably do need to move the front hanger back more then you need to move the rear shackle hanger forward. Doesn't look like you need much, either. Would moving the front hanger back 2.25-2.5" sound about right? Hard to guess looking at pictures off center..but that's about what it looks like to me.
Definitely not moving the rear hanger forward. yes, 2 to 2 1/2" would be about right to get the shackle angle right, but I think I might move the shackle to the rear position on the sky bracket, effectively stretching the wheelbase a little, have to measure how far that would mean moving the front bracket, and see how well it will fit. The frame starts to curve upwards not too far back from the front hanger, so it will be close.
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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In the factory position, the sky bracket will not interfere with the xmember, even if you move it backwards to clear the tank. P/u's seem to have the shackle hangar the same distance from the end of the frame as the bronco's do.


(if you look closely you will see the xmember is already installed in its new home)

The two holes to the right of the Sky bracket are where the hangar used to bolt up. I moved the hangar forward until the front bolt-hole for the shackle was in-line with the two rivets that held the front of the original hangar in place. The final 3 holes out back are the stock bumper holes. The xmember is now right in line with the middle of the three, behind the OEM shackle hangar holes. Its close, but itll work there.
There is definitely enough room to move the front hangar back 2" if you wanted to go that route instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
reptillikus said:
In the factory position, the sky bracket will not interfere with the xmember, even if you move it backwards to clear the tank. P/u's seem to have the shackle hangar the same distance from the end of the frame as the bronco's do.
Sweet, I may still go that route then, depends on funds at this point. The puncture in my stock tank is on the top of the tank, and is pretty small. After looking at it again, I could easily fix it using metal epoxy. Will know for sure which direction I'm going after the front end is on (hopefully done by next weekend). Thanks for the info! :drinkbud
 
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