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1979 Bronco Coyote Swap

19851 Views 74 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  79CoyoteBronco
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Hello, I have owned a 1979 Bronco since I was in high school. I tore it apart my first year in college in 1997 but didn't have the resources to do what I wanted to it, marriage, kids, life, divorce etc. all got in the way. Now I am 42 and have the funds to do what I want.

I have purchased a 2016 F150 Coyote motor that only had 32k miles from a wrecked truck. I just picked up a ZF-5 S5-47M transmission to put behind it. All bolts up as it should, the motor has the original Flexplate from the automatic and I need to know what clutch to get for this. The transmission is from a 99 F250 SuperDuty but the seller did not know what motor it was behind. likely a 5.4L V8 or a 6.8L V10. They all share the bell housing pattern with the newer 5.0L Coyote. The 5.4L flywheel and Mustang 5.0L flywheels on RockAuto seem to be different sizes, so not sure which I will need to work between the two setups. I am thinking for the starter to line up, I need the 5.0L flywheel, and maybe the 5.4L or 6.8L clutch???

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Flexplate through the Slave cylinder hole.

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bolted together to verify fit and alignment. Need correct bellhousing bolts. These were the 114mm ones that allowed the motor on my engine stand...

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The motor came with a thin (3/32") metal plate that was between the engine and automatic Transmission...
One thing you may want to check is if they used a different motor plate from automatic to manual.
I am not sure what you mean by "motor plate"?
Something similar to this. This was on google as a Coyote block plate. I'm sure there are a couple variants. Auto vs Manual.


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The Ford Performance ECU requires a return style fuel.. so yes will need 2 lines and a regulator before the fuel rail input... My old line is in good shape.. has a section of rubber in the middle below drivers door area, not sure if that is stock or someone added for a filter... that was later removed..🤔

If that is stock break. Will need to use EFI hose and clamps right there for both lines.. the filter can go there for the pressure line..
It's factory. My 78 has this break as well and when I added my Holley Sniper I changed that rubber hose with some EFI rated hose. My Sniper kit came with EFI hose and I used it as my supply line and the factory hard line as my return, so that's what you are seeing in the pic.


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Well, now I know I can fit my hood in the back if I ever need to.
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I think it depends on the engine/transmission and what each individual's perception is as to whether or not a 3.5 rear end will be too doggy. I think auto trannies are more forgiving with their torque converters smoothing things out or masking issues. My NP435 behind a 351M with 35's and a 3.5 rear eventually made my clutch chatter real bad on takeoffs in second (I don't start out in granny gear and doubt most people with a ZF5 will either). With 4.56 gearing that I have now that's not an issue, but it clearly takes the top end away. If I had an OD it'd be the best of both worlds. After my 460 swap I'm able to take off in third if I want to rev it a little more than usual before letting the clutch out. Having more power seems to help. These are my experiences anyway.
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Forgot to mention, driving it with 3.5 gearing and 35's was like having an OD on it's own though. It was nice at highway speeds. I don't drive mine as fast as I would a modern car/truck though.
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5.72 is definitely a granny gear. Compare that to second gear of the NP435 or 1st gear in a C6 or C4. Those are like 2.46:1 in first.
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