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1979 Bronco Coyote Swap

19857 Views 74 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  79CoyoteBronco
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Hello, I have owned a 1979 Bronco since I was in high school. I tore it apart my first year in college in 1997 but didn't have the resources to do what I wanted to it, marriage, kids, life, divorce etc. all got in the way. Now I am 42 and have the funds to do what I want.

I have purchased a 2016 F150 Coyote motor that only had 32k miles from a wrecked truck. I just picked up a ZF-5 S5-47M transmission to put behind it. All bolts up as it should, the motor has the original Flexplate from the automatic and I need to know what clutch to get for this. The transmission is from a 99 F250 SuperDuty but the seller did not know what motor it was behind. likely a 5.4L V8 or a 6.8L V10. They all share the bell housing pattern with the newer 5.0L Coyote. The 5.4L flywheel and Mustang 5.0L flywheels on RockAuto seem to be different sizes, so not sure which I will need to work between the two setups. I am thinking for the starter to line up, I need the 5.0L flywheel, and maybe the 5.4L or 6.8L clutch???

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Flexplate through the Slave cylinder hole.

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bolted together to verify fit and alignment. Need correct bellhousing bolts. These were the 114mm ones that allowed the motor on my engine stand...

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I would think you need the Coyoie flywheel and truck pressure plate and clutch disc. This is so you get the right height for the release bearing and the proper spline for the input shaft. You may have to get flywheel drilled for the pressure plate bolt pattern.

Not familiar so much with coyote and mod motors but do they still use a motor plate between motor and transmission? If they do then that will determine starter location and which flywheel.

Since they share the same bellhousing pattern you may be able to use mod motor plate and flywheel this way the starter and clutch bolt right in.

I need more coffee to think clearer.
Just make sure the balance is the same between 5.0 and 5.4
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One thing you may want to check is if they used a different motor plate from automatic to manual.
Thank you @Doosenberry. That I'd what I was referring to. It is critical as it locates the starter. Typically Ford used different ones depending if it was automatic or manual.
It will line up perfectly with the transmission of any type BUT the mounting holes for the starter may be in different locations depending upon the transmission type.
If the firing order is different then the camshafts have to be changed to match the new firing order.
Easiest way to get an EFI intank fuel pump setup is to use the 90-96 Bronco fuel tank and fuel pump setup. It is a bolt in deal for earlier model broncos. Use the later upper and lower straps or upper straps and skid plate. Also use the 90-96 Filler neck and tank filler hose. Use the Motorcraft fuel pump and and pick up assembly F6TZ-9A407-DB . You will also need the fuel level sending unit and the single tube vent that fits in the top of the tank. The 90-96 fuel system is a two way vent system. It allows air into the tank during operation and air out as pressure builds during increase in tank temperature. Fueling venting is handled by a hose inside hose of the filler neck. Fuel flows into the tank with the inside hose while air escapes via the outside hose into the filler neck. Everything you need is available from Bronco Graveyard. Being that you are using a stock Coyote the factory pump will be sufficient.
Quantum Fuel Systems does offer a higher than stock pump and pump housing but I have my doubts on it as they list 90-96 Broncos as having front and rear tanks like an F150 but it does not and never did.

I did it and glad I did.
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Good luck with whatever course you take. Broncos are notorious for running out of fuel when not using the fuel pump module. The tanks have a very small circular sump and without something that captures the fuel and also recirculates returned fuel. You need some method of holding fuel at the pick up point. Factory way is the proven way. Done on this board time and time again.

The pressures and flows you are seeing is based off of regulator pressure. Yes 90-96 was based on 43.5 PSI rail pressure. I think Coyote is rated at 58 PSI rail pressure. The 90-96 pump is capable of 90 psi. At the pressures and flow you need the factory pump is plenty. Do not make this hard on yourself because you don't want to spend $400 for an excellent fuel pump and pickup.
Do yourself a favor and order two sets of stainless fuel supply lines for 1979. You don't need the vapor line it is the 5/16 inch. The fuel supply lines are 3/8 inch and are plenty big enough. They are prebent and lay in perfect along the frame rail. Reason for two sets you will need one for supply and one for return. You will need to come up with a fuel pressure regulator if Coyote used a returnless system. Other than turning the pump on and off with the ECU you will not be able to control fuel pressure with it.
Just remember when tank is installed the pick up installs in what will be tilted and there is a bend in the pickup to make it parallel to the floor of the tank when it Is installed on Bronco. Tanks Inc is tray like and may be difficult to angle correctly to make it run parallel to tank bottom.
Ue this one it is tons better with crawl ratios and all.
Not as graphic but does the trick and allows some combo comparisons.
4.10 or 4.30 makes a good choice over the 4..56. Still keeps hwy rpm down low where most of the torque is and still helps in first gear if ever needed.
2500 is not bad. Drive an F-150 and see what a 5.0 normally cruises at.
Yeaah you are just interested in what RPM Ford intended as cruise rpm. You will want to come out about the same. Reason later models have lower cruise rpm was to lower fuel consumption and add longevity.
They don't offer a DBW cruise for Ford strictly LS. The pull type cable will not work with any DBW throttle body as there is not place to actually connect it.
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