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Discussion Starter #21
Installed the wiring harness from power by the hour last night after removing the stock harness and giving the engine a quick cleaning. It was just a bit dirty from when it sat in the wrecked truck. Mostly dirt not much oil mess so do not believe anything was leaking on this engine. It only has 32k miles on it so that is good.

The harness from Power by the hour did not have a connector for the rear of the intake manifold for the Manifold pressure sensor. There was also no connectors for on the drivers side down by the Alternator for the oil pressure before and after the filter. They said this harness is based on the Mustang harness but modified for the F150 differences. I ordered the clutch and other items I will need to hopefully be able to start this while sitting on the engine stands I purchase. These allow the engine to site with transmission attached. I saw a video where a 5.0 was started sitting on a pallet, but not sure how the guy temp mounted the starter with no transmission due to the fact that the starter bolts to the transmission, not the engine.

So based on my research I got a 5.4L clutch kit and flywheel, but had to get a different pilot bearing as the one for the 5.4L is 1.454" outer diameter, and the 5.0L seem to be only 1.36". Found that the pilot bearing for the Mustang or the 7.3L diesel had the right outside diameter and same inside diameter as the 17mm or .669" transmission input shaft..

When these parts get in, I will update further and add some more pictures too.

I have 90 days warranty on this junkyard motor, want to make sure everything is good even though it will be likely 6 months before this is installed in the Bronco. So far everything looks good, going to bore scope and compression test each cylinder as well. Was going to pull pan but with only 32k, I think I will bore scope through oil plug and see what I can find.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Finally got some parts over the last few days, got a Luk flywheel and clutch from Summit Racing, ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts (flywheel ones were about 1/4 longer than the stock ones holding on flexplate). Due to the measurements I took of the flywheel boss for the pilot bearing and the OD measurements listed of 1.454" I had added another pilot bearing from Doorman that listed a smaller OD that was really close to the 1.36" I had measured. Turns out both pilot bearings were identical in size.. the one from the Luk clutch kit drove into the crank just like it should..I will keep the extra as not worth the hassle to return..

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Discussion Starter #23
Few days ago, I was able to get transmission bolted up to motor and everything lines up as it should. Her are some pictures..
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Anyone know what this hole on the drivers side of the motor is for? You are seeing the back of the flywheel. Only thing I can think is it is access hole for flexplate bolts when mounting/removing a automatic transmission..
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Clutch fork and throwout bearing seem to mesh up correctly with the pressure plate.. and I know the pilot bearing is fully engaged as the earlier test fit showed it deep into the rear of the crank.
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Now working on fuel system... need the pump I will use for in tank setup.. ordered new 33 Gal tank as my original 25.5 has a leak and is 40 years old..🤷‍♂️

What recommend in-tank pump setups have any of you done? Also thinking of running new line for delivery through filter of pressured fuel and using the original line for the return line to the tank from the regulator in engine bay... return line doesn't have the same pressure on it...
 

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Easiest way to get an EFI intank fuel pump setup is to use the 90-96 Bronco fuel tank and fuel pump setup. It is a bolt in deal for earlier model broncos. Use the later upper and lower straps or upper straps and skid plate. Also use the 90-96 Filler neck and tank filler hose. Use the Motorcraft fuel pump and and pick up assembly F6TZ-9A407-DB . You will also need the fuel level sending unit and the single tube vent that fits in the top of the tank. The 90-96 fuel system is a two way vent system. It allows air into the tank during operation and air out as pressure builds during increase in tank temperature. Fueling venting is handled by a hose inside hose of the filler neck. Fuel flows into the tank with the inside hose while air escapes via the outside hose into the filler neck. Everything you need is available from Bronco Graveyard. Being that you are using a stock Coyote the factory pump will be sufficient.
Quantum Fuel Systems does offer a higher than stock pump and pump housing but I have my doubts on it as they list 90-96 Broncos as having front and rear tanks like an F150 but it does not and never did.

I did it and glad I did.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I was under the impression from something I read on another forum that the 90-96 EFI was not high enough pressure. I know the Ford Performance kit says you have to have 155L/h at 55 PSI minimum. Some of the early TB EFI were only around 40 PSI... I could be wrong. I started looking at that option and the 96 pump I found was around $400 and I can get a high performance aftermarket pump for less than that... Looking at just doing the tanks or Holley system like this: In-Tank Fuel Pump Module - PA-Series
I like how simple the Holly mounts but the Ford Bronco tank does not have a flat area on top so may have to do some cutting and welding on a brand new tank..
Tanks Inc. offers a part to do just that and it isn't horribly expensive, Could make my own for the Holley out of 16 Gauge steel.
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The other option might be to use part of my old tank, (After removing, cleaning and filling with water) to cut a section out of the top, and make an access panel for the new tank, like they do in this video. Just modify and new 33 gallon sending unit to hold a modern in tank pump. Create some baffles to keep fuel slosh to a minimum, and just put my own -6 AN fittings out the back of the tank to feed the new line to a regulator with a return feed.


I already have a new 33 Gallon 78/79 tank on its way. Shipped today, so guess I will start with that and figure out the pump I want to use and modify what is needed to install it when the time is right. Now I just want to get the engine running on the stand to verify nothing is wrong with it before my 90 warranty with the junk yard is up...
 

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Good luck with whatever course you take. Broncos are notorious for running out of fuel when not using the fuel pump module. The tanks have a very small circular sump and without something that captures the fuel and also recirculates returned fuel. You need some method of holding fuel at the pick up point. Factory way is the proven way. Done on this board time and time again.

The pressures and flows you are seeing is based off of regulator pressure. Yes 90-96 was based on 43.5 PSI rail pressure. I think Coyote is rated at 58 PSI rail pressure. The 90-96 pump is capable of 90 psi. At the pressures and flow you need the factory pump is plenty. Do not make this hard on yourself because you don't want to spend $400 for an excellent fuel pump and pickup.
 

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Do yourself a favor and order two sets of stainless fuel supply lines for 1979. You don't need the vapor line it is the 5/16 inch. The fuel supply lines are 3/8 inch and are plenty big enough. They are prebent and lay in perfect along the frame rail. Reason for two sets you will need one for supply and one for return. You will need to come up with a fuel pressure regulator if Coyote used a returnless system. Other than turning the pump on and off with the ECU you will not be able to control fuel pressure with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
The Ford Performance ECU requires a return style fuel.. so yes will need 2 lines and a regulator before the fuel rail input... My old line is in good shape.. has a section of rubber in the middle below drivers door area, not sure if that is stock or someone added for a filter... that was later removed..🤔

If that is stock break. Will need to use EFI hose and clamps right there for both lines.. the filter can go there for the pressure line..

I still need to figure out if I can use the stock vent re-breather input on the motor, but I think those work off of a pressure sensor in stock tank that purges the pressure build in tank vent line into the intake TB..

I would prefere to capture and burn the fuel vapors as you pay for them at the pump..🤷‍♂️
 

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I got a replacement Bosch fuel pump module for $150 10 years ago. I can't imagine they cost that much. If you can find a donor you can get the tank, skid plate and straps, fuel pump, filler, stainless supply and return lines, and fuel filter all at once

86-96 trucks had a evap system. A simple one but they had it. They have a rollover valve in the tank, from there you can run a line up to the front to a 86-96 charcoal canister. Then from there into a new style purge solenoid then into the normal port on the engine. If you need a pressure sensor in the tank you could tap into the filler tube or vent port.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Thank you for all your replies, they have helped me think about the plan, I have decided to go with the Tanks Inc kit as it has the fuel sump pan to keep gas next to the pickup when cornering or at a steep angle if off roading. I think I will just be careful to not let the tank be below half full when doing any offroading to help keep starvation from being an issue...

I am waiting on the weld in panel to see if the unit can be installed directly without it. The 33 Gallon tank is pretty deep so may need to extend the mount as it maxes out at 10.5" in depth and looking at my current 25.5 tank to the floor of the body, looks to be about 2" of space above there, so should have plenty of room for the lines off the top of the pump.

Right now I am not focused on installing the motor into the Bronco, I am trying to be able to start it on the stand so I can verify everything is good. I did scope the cylinders and they all look good. Still need to do compression tests to make sure none of the valves have leaking issues.
 

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Just remember when tank is installed the pick up installs in what will be tilted and there is a bend in the pickup to make it parallel to the floor of the tank when it Is installed on Bronco. Tanks Inc is tray like and may be difficult to angle correctly to make it run parallel to tank bottom.
 

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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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The Ford Performance ECU requires a return style fuel.. so yes will need 2 lines and a regulator before the fuel rail input... My old line is in good shape.. has a section of rubber in the middle below drivers door area, not sure if that is stock or someone added for a filter... that was later removed..🤔

If that is stock break. Will need to use EFI hose and clamps right there for both lines.. the filter can go there for the pressure line..
It's factory. My 78 has this break as well and when I added my Holley Sniper I changed that rubber hose with some EFI rated hose. My Sniper kit came with EFI hose and I used it as my supply line and the factory hard line as my return, so that's what you are seeing in the pic.


 

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@79CoyoteBronco You’re a brave man attempting this swap. You’re breaking new grounds with all your research...that’ll help others on the future.

That’s gonna be a great ride. Can’t wait to see it completed.

I have an 82 ElCamino w/355 stroker and Holley Street Avenger 650 car.old skool.
I’ve noticed the trend to shove a LS or a Coyote into every classic car. Yes, great for power, weight, reliability, MPG etc., but personally, I like a classic to have a period correct engine.

That’s just an observation on my part..,that’s a phenomenal engine/tranny combo your installing. Your Bronco is going to be a sweet ride. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
@79CoyoteBronco You’re a brave man attempting this swap. You’re breaking new grounds with all your research...that’ll help others on the future.

That’s gonna be a great ride. Can’t wait to see it completed.

I have an 82 ElCamino w/355 stroker and Holley Street Avenger 650 car.old skool.
I’ve noticed the trend to shove a LS or a Coyote into every classic car. Yes, great for power, weight, reliability, MPG etc., but personally, I like a classic to have a period correct engine.

That’s just an observation on my part..,that’s a phenomenal engine/tranny combo your installing. Your Bronco is going to be a sweet ride. Good luck!
Actually I have found a lot of people are doing the Coyote Swap into these older Fords, most just use the Automatic Tranny from the donor vehicle, but my Bronco is a Stick now NP435, and I love driving a stick, they are fun... I haven't had one since my 96 Nissan pickup... And although the 4 speed would have worked, adapting the bell housing to the Modular would have been just as difficult as using a tranny already design for it. Although this Transmission/Engine combo never came from the factory, the fact Ford stayed with the modular bell housing pattern with the newer 5.0L Coyote makes this easy. The ZF-5 has been around a while but are getting harder to find. I paid $350 for this from a guy in Rapid City on Facebook Classifieds... If it is junk in the end, it will be the core unit to order a rebuilt one for around $1200... Hopefully won't have to do that... it seemed in good shape inside, but won't know till it is under power in the Bronco... ¯\(ツ)
 

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in my 78 bronco i used the factory tank, i took the pump and sender from a 88-90 bronco tank. It was low pressure but you can put a high pressure pump on the the sending unit and use it that way, a cheaper and it works fine 8 year no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
so, how far are you and can you show some projects of the car its walking in?
The 79 bronco it is going in is all tore apart and has been since 1997.. I took it apart, but really had no money/time, at the time to build it..
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Had 351M and will soon be in the shop for the next phase in the prep for installation of that motor..😁
 
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