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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
The blend door in my vents has broken.

This is the part in question:


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My Bronco has A/C, so it has the internal access panel for the heater core. Last winter, after this broke, I was able to remove the access panel and reach up through the hole and move the door by hand. However, now that it's summer, I want to go back to A/C. I don't feel like manually moving the door every time, so I would like to fix it.

For clarification, the blend door itself has broken. The hinge has worn from flexing and cracked in half, so it just flops around inside the air box. It's still connected to the arm that moves the door and that's working correctly.

Has anyone replaced this? What's all needed to get to it? Even though I can reach up inside and move it, I CANNOT access it, get tools in there, etc. It's way too tight quarters.

I figured I would just dive in and start taking the dash apart a piece at a time until I get to it, but am hoping someone has a more elegant solution that requires less surgery.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Following because I think I have the same issue last time I was poking around all the blend doors. But my AC hasn’t been functional in the two years I’ve owned the truck, so I’ve looked the other way. Good luck!
 

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Has anyone replaced this? What's all needed to get to it? Even though I can reach up inside and move it, I CANNOT access it, get tools in there, etc. It's way too tight quarters.

I figured I would just dive in and start taking the dash apart a piece at a time until I get to it, but am hoping someone has a more elegant solution that requires less surgery.
I don't want to be discouraging, but it's been over 3 years since I fixed mine and it was the most frustrating thing I've had to do to mine - and that's with the dash completely off. Here's the pics from post #96 (page 5) and #109 (page 6) in my build thread. No easy way that I could find. Access is very limited to get the pin that holds the arm of the actuator back into the blend door, and to get the nuts on the fasteners. It's just so hard to get your hand in there. As you can see, I was too cheap to buy a new door and used steel hinges.


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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks SRWillis,
From what I've read, steel hinges are the way to go. A new plastic replacement will simply fatigue and break again, especially since it's probably made in China.

Yeah, it's extremely tight quarters. I had slices on my wrist just from squeezing my hand in there to move the door manually.

And I imagine you're right. There's simply no easy way to get to this, but one can hope.
 
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I have wrestled with that exact thing in our 1981 Bronco. Definitely a tight fit in there. With the hinge broken, mine somehow manages to work most of the time. I have watched it with the heater core cover off and it dangles by the actuator rod and seats fully when it gets where it’s going..... go figure.
I experimented with some duct tape in the hinge area. It worked well enough to make me think that if I used some really sticky and strong tape, it would last for awhile. I even thought of combining some strong tape with some aluminum-faced elastomeric tape (Eternabond Alumibond) that I have on hand..... generally too hot outside now to mess with it, and partially a lack of wanna to do it. Maybe some cooler day soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Hrm... Something like the Eternabond stuff is a decent idea. It's not like it flaps back and forth all day. Just once in a while when switching from defrost/floor to dash vents. I imagine it'd take a lot less time to try to get up there with some solvent to clean everything really well and apply the tape, than pull the entire dash apart. Hrmm....
 

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PM me a mailing address.... I would be glad to send you a 4”x 12” piece via the mail..... no sense buying an entire roll unless you have other use for it. I used it for sealing the roof seams on our Avion travel trailer (aluminum-clad trailer “like an Airstream”), had half of a 50’ roll left over. I have found all sorts of uses for it over the years. Most recently, I used it to seal the vertical seams on double-wall chimney pipe for our wood stove. It’s great stuff! You better have it where you want it when you stick it down, because it STICKS!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Much appreciated! I'll shoot you a PM.
Yeah, I was looking it up online and it's expensive. Worth it if you need a bunch, but yeah I probably only need a foot or less.
 

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Much appreciated! I'll shoot you a PM.
Yeah, I was looking it up online and it's expensive. Worth it if you need a bunch, but yeah I probably only need a foot or less.
I had the same problem on my '82 XLT Lariat. I used a metal hinge like SRWillis mentioned. This was at least ten years ago, maybe more. Haven't had any problems with it since.
Go ahead and fix it right! You will never regret it.
TB
 
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