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1982 Ford bronco 5.0L 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 82 Ford bronco with a 5.0L 302 V8 and it starts cold and runs fine for about 10-15 minutes and then all of a sudden dies out of no where and looses spark. I replaced the seliniod and the distributor which obviously come with the cap and rotor as well. Also put a new ignition control module (icm) and still does the same thing. And it won’t get spark again until I wait a couple hours or the next day when everything cools back down. I also replaced the ignition switch as well and the coil.
 

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Yo @Bronco82lifted
WELCOME!
Can you identify the Carburetor type?
See 1980-1986 Bronco/F Series Carburetors, Chokes & EFI by Gary
Any black, white or blue/gray exhaust smoke?


Here is some more info for you;

See EEC III Testing, Pin-Outs, Wiring & Vacuum Diagrams in an 82 by Tommy via internet archive
HOWEVER, Brewster Kahle, Founder, Internet Archive is blocking many archived sites again because of his political bias.
It may clear up soon once he gains more $. He's only fleeced out nearly $7, 000,000 so far.



DIY EEC III Timing Procedure by Eric, DONOTDELETE @ EEC III - Off-Road Forums & Discussion Groups

1982 Bronco "What's New for 1982" Brochure by Gary

1982 Light Truck Facts Book by Gary

1982 Bronco, F & E Series Accessories Brochure by Gary

1982 Bronco Advertisement "A lion in winter!"

1982 Fastener Pictures & Illustrations by Gary


1980-1986 Bronco/F Series Specifications by Gary @ Axle Ratios - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible)

Differences in 1980-1986 Bronco/F Series by Gary
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For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories that requires 75 non- padded posts to buy or sell due to scammers who preyed on our members.

Please fill out your Bronco Info with year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. for better responses.
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You will get ideas by those competing. !

Al
 

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1982 Ford bronco 5.0L 4x4
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8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It is carbureted with a edelbrock 650 CFM and I didn’t notice any smoke whatsoever
 

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Yo,
Following from https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQIBBAC&usg=AOvVaw1cnAP1eKnlha6RzRxNv6ng
"Winter Fuel Idle Sets
During the winter months (in most parts of the country) the local fuel will be a “winter” blend that is very volatile, as an assist to cold-engine starting and driveability during warm-up.
However, the high volatility has the disadvantage of allowing excessive vaporization of the fuel if the vehicle is operated in a heated area such as a garage. This can result in problems in the idle-set procedures since the carburetor’s internal vents will allow this excess vapor to be drawn into the throats and enrichen the mixture. The idle will be erratic and not seem to be able to
hold a set. To resolve this type of problem, it is advisable to perform the final settings outdoors after the vehicle has been stabilized with a drive of several miles.
1. Fully warm engine and ensure choke is fully open.
2. Air cleaner in place.
3. Set desired speed with the air screw.
4. Adjust the IMS on ONE side to get the maximum possible RPM.
Do not go rich beyond the maximum speed point.
5. If the above changed the idle speed more than 40 RPM, then readjust the speed.
6. Adjust the side OPPOSITE of that in Step 4 to get maximum RPM.
7. Reset the speed.
8. Carefully trim each IMS to again get the maximum idle RPM.
9. Go leaner just enough to get a 20 RPM drop in speed.
10. Reset the speed to the desired RPM.
11. This is a Lean-Best Idle Set. Setting richer than this will not improve idle quality or performance, but could tend to foul plugs."
 

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start at the exhaust, does it smell rich at startup, or does it get richer as it warms, or vice versa? look at the choke operation from cold start through warm up.

are you sure it is losing spark? is it losing spark at the coil, or to the plugs? could be a timing issue as it warms up, but my bet would be on a carb setting. Was it running fine in warmer weather, or is this a year round thing (or did you just get this)

Do you hear any misses or knocks during start/warm up? have you blipped the throttle during warm up, what happens? any hesitation to accel, hanging at the top, or popping as RPMs drop? have you tried holding a higher RPM during warm up, like 3k+ RPM for a few minutes? If you have a glass fuel filter, keep an eye on it for fuel flow (are you running a mechanical or electric fuel pump?). Do you have an actual oil pressure gauge? temp gauge?

If you've done an EFI swap, then there's a whole host of other things we'll need to look at.
 

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1982 Ford bronco 5.0L 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just barely got the bronco about 2 weeks ago and it was sitting for about two years I already cleaned the carb and know for sure it is getting fuel and doesn’t have any fuel related problems. I haven’t tried smelling the exhaust though. And I know the timing is fine because the guy I bought it from had the timing off and me and my step dad put a timing light on it and fixed that and got it running now about 3-4 times and still only starts cold and then warms up and completely loses spark to the coil when I hold the test light button down on the timing light and my dad tries to start it, when it is warm it blinks one time when you turn the key and then looses all spark and doesn’t blink at all so I know for sure it is a spark issue I just don’t know where it is coming from. Also no knocking or ticking whatsoever the engine sounded really healthy and strong
 

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I just barely got the bronco about 2 weeks ago and it was sitting for about two years I already cleaned the carb and know for sure it is getting fuel and doesn’t have any fuel related problems. I haven’t tried smelling the exhaust though. And I know the timing is fine because the guy I bought it from had the timing off and me and my step dad put a timing light on it and fixed that and got it running now about 3-4 times and still only starts cold and then warms up and completely loses spark to the coil when I hold the test light button down on the timing light and my dad tries to start it, when it is warm it blinks one time when you turn the key and then looses all spark and doesn’t blink at all so I know for sure it is a spark issue I just don’t know where it is coming from. Also no knocking or ticking whatsoever the engine sounded really healthy and strong
so when hot, while turning the ignition, you have no spark?

wth....

this is using a duraspark 2 coil? factory coil on front of engine, next to the dizzy?
 

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1982 Ford bronco 5.0L 4x4
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yup weird right and like I said replaced coil, distributor cap and rotor, icm, ignition switch, checked all my wires and grounds and the coil I put on it is a motorcraft brand
 

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I even put dyelectric grease on all my connections
maybe it is a vacuum issue. perhaps the slight vacuum change cold to hot is putting the dizzy in a place where the coil is wanting to fire when the rotor is between points?

in fact, it could be plugs, or wondering if a fuel issue is flooding the chamber when hot and preventing the plugs from firing off? Maybe there is something off with the choke, so the PO richened up the mix to get it to cold start, but that means that once hot it is too rich to run, maybe even too rich to fire? Or could be a gap issue in the plugs? never run into an issue of losing spark when getting hot. There is an issue on later model 5.0s when a certain part gets hot, but don't think a carb'ed 820 model has that part, but maybe I'm wrong. the TMI, TFI something like that.
 
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