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1982 Bronco, 302 w C6 Transmission
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone,
My second post, so go easy and just looking for a little advice...
Just got this truck running consistently with new spark plugs and noticed a new (to me anyway) issue. I knew there was a leak of some kind around the header area and as the engine got warm from about 10 minutes of idle, the area started smoking. As I was putting in the spark plugs, I did notice that some of the header bolts were very loose. So loose under on, I could see several millimeters under the bolt head and it was on its way to backing completely out. I tightened them all. Not all were like that, and in actuality, it seemed that the tighter ones were in the spots with the worst leaks.
I let it go for another 10 minutes to see if the leak would burn off and it kept smoking fairly continuously and consistently. Not that all of that oil would have burned off in minutes, but I was kind of hoping it would go down a bit. It seems it is being regularly "fed". Looking closely, it seems like the white smoke is coming from under the header, but not sure. I took a quick video of it for you guys to check out.

My question is: What would you do next? Is this a possibly serious danger that I need to figure out before anything else? If so, what would be the next step? Just start pulling stuff off to inspect? Any easier things? As I mentioned, I am not the hugest fan of this set up with the emission issues I am going to have to fix... maybe I am looking for an excuse to pull this engine? I was really hoping to hold off on that until after the summer is over and we have a chance to drive it.

Any thoughts from you smart guys and or gals I would appreciate!
Neil

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20220421_192217.mp4
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1988 Ford Bronco XLT 5.0 four speed auto Raven black with red interior
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Valve covers are notorious for leaking on the corners. Buy a good set of valve covers gaskets and replace them and after some run time it should clear up.
 

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Nice Bronco. You and your boys have a good project. A few ideas for you.

Our high school Automotive program used to give emission tests on vehicles for community members. We didn't charge since it was a way to demonstrate and teach the kids. Might be some school in your area that could run some tests for you. Also, give those valve cover bolts a little twist, slow that oil feed down a bit. More than likely though you will have to replace those gaskets after sitting for that long of time.

Try and get the Bronco running and tuned up as best you can before thinking of pulling the engine. Run a few tanks of gas through the fuel system, take a compression test, work the transmission and running gear, etc.... Get as many of the bugs out as you can. Happy Wrenching!(y)
 

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1982 Bronco, 302 w C6 Transmission
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nice Bronco. You and your boys have a good project. A few ideas for you.

Our high school Automotive program used to give emission tests on vehicles for community members. We didn't charge since it was a way to demonstrate and teach the kids. Might be some school in your area that could run some tests for you. Also, give those valve cover bolts a little twist, slow that oil feed down a bit. More than likely though you will have to replace those gaskets after sitting for that long of time.

Try and get the Bronco running and tuned up as best you can before thinking of pulling the engine. Run a few tanks of gas through the fuel system, take a compression test, work the transmission and running gear, etc.... Get as many of the bugs out as you can. Happy Wrenching!(y)
Thanks for the tip. I remember a buddy of mine took his truck to a local high school several years ago. They might have something similar to what you are talking about.
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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I could not see the video for some reason, but love the bullnose era Bronco's. Could you post a pic??

This story reminds me of my first car at 16 years old, it had an oil leak & I was terrified to pull the valve cover off to put a gasket on it, but eventually I dug in, its been all downhill since!!
 

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1982 Bronco, 302 w C6 Transmission
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I could not see the video for some reason, but love the bullnose era Bronco's. Could you post a pic??

This story reminds me of my first car at 16 years old, it had an oil leak & I was terrified to pull the valve cover off to put a gasket on it, but eventually I dug in, its been all downhill since!!
Picture attached!
 

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1982 Bronco, 302 w C6 Transmission
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Quick update... I got the gaskets and was ready to install them, but from previous expericence with this engine (Ex 1.: Fuel Pump supply line clamp was very loose, cracked tube and leaking everywhere which I realized when I went to change out the fuel pump as I couldn't see where it was coming from when running... I changed it out anyway. Ex 2.: Some header bolts were less than finger tight, see previous) I decided to see if the bolts in place actually had any torque on them. Many of them didnt. So, rather than burn several hours R&Ring these things, I decided to just torque them and see if that helps. I am going to give the engine a good wash so it will be easy to tell if the leaking continues. Too easy of a fix?
 

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1982 Bronco, 302 w C6 Transmission
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So, after thinking a little more logically about it, I decided to proceed with putting new seals in. Had my son and an extra set of hands. Gave me a chance to clean the valve cover. Now its blue instead of grime color! Just did the one side today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The covers, and engie are already painted blue, jist have to get them cleaned to see them! I am teetering on the edge with this engine. It actually runs pretty well. A neighbor (local classic car guru) looked at it and said it just runs a little rich and the fuel accelerator (not sure thats the 100% correct name) isnt working. Suggested a carb rebuild. May be the next thing to do on the road to getting this thing to pass emissions.
 

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1982 Bronco, 302 w C6 Transmission
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
A little help needed!
Removing all of the line that were covering the passenger side valve cover I ran i to an issue. There is a hardline going from the choke (I think, labeled #1 in the pics) to the header (circled in blue). It was completely rusted out and essentially fell off when I was trying to figure out how to remove it.
Does anyone know what it is/does? There is a tiny amount left that I may be able to twist out with some vicegrips, (last pic)
but I dont know what then? Is this critical? It seems like a terrible design as the line is so twisted, there is no way to thread it in the header as there isnt enough room. With all if the rust, I am sure it wasnt making a good connection anyway.

Any and all help is appreciated!
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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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It's a heat choke tube, i went thru this on my Corvette a few years back, it sends heated air (not exhaust) up to the carb as the exhaust warms up. The manifold has a tube that passes thru the manifold, & the heat choke tube you are going to replace, plugs into that tube, so the exhaust make the hot air rise up to the carb & that heats up a spring coil inside the carb, which opens up the choke as it warms up. Its a good simple soloution to making a choke work when its all functioning properly. So without this fu.ctioning, your choke essentially stays on the whole time. So maybe if its not running good as it warms up, it's because your choke is on all the time.

You can maybe buy a replacement tube, or even bend your own up using the old one as a guide, but it shouldn't be too difficult. Youtube choke tubes & see what comes up.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok. Thanks! I found a replacement brake tube for like 10 bucks and have a tube bender. Now I just have to figure out how to drill the stuck part in. Very little access. I am going to buy a flexible drill shaft thing and cut down a 1/4 bit to VERY short. Hope it works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got it replaced. Went to autozone and they had a hard brakeline that was the same size and had the right flare on it. Bent it up, drilled the rust suck in the hole and put it in.

I am pretty happy with it.... but now a new issue has arisen. Took it for a drive with the new valve covers in. This was the longest/hardest I have driven it as I had a bad wheel bearing and leaking valve cover seals and was waiting to fix those. About 10 minutes into the drive, it dies at idle. Starts right back up but evertime went to idle it would die and want to die if I let my foot off the gas.

Possible I didnt get it repaired right since this seems to be the issue? However it seems opposite of the problem I would have if the choke was on as it feels like its not getting any gas. Not sure if this problem existed before I reworked that choke tube.

Thoughts?
 

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My thoughts are, someone turned all the adjustment screws out of whack to get it to run, not knowing the choke was on or what they were doing.

1982 Bronco means 40 years of neglected maintenence is needed, plus it has sat, and dry rotted, deteriorated. Thays the fun, making it nice again!!

Clean fuel tank
Clean fuel lines
Carb rebuild, pry full of dirt & debris, cracked old rubber bits, clogged passages, collapsed diaphrams, ect...

Carbs are great, you just need to learn all about them. And until you comfirm everything above is perfect, don't bother adjusting anything on the carb.

Carbs get a baseline setting, which yours is pry all out of whack from previous owners turning random screws trying to make it run with no clue what they were doing. Thats what I used to do before I knew how to finesse them.

Anyway, back to youtube for you, watch some carb rebuild, set up & tuning videos. Get a vacuum guage, timing light, and assuming your shaft bushings aren't all worn out & you dont have vacuum leaks everywhere, you should be able to straighten it out without too much trouble, but its a bit of a learning curve for a first timer.

 
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