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Discussion Starter #1
So this will be the new thread for my new to me ‘84 F150. I know I posted in my old thread that I inherited my grandad’s F150 that he purchased new from Ford in 1984, and it was built at the Norfolk plant, 5 miles from my house. Well it came down between the Bronco I’ve had since 2014 and the F150 and the F150 won based on sentimental value and the fact that we have another 4 wheel drive truck. So the Bronco was sold in April of this year.

Specs on the truck are single cab, long bed, 2 wheel drive, 302, AOD, 3.55s, open diff.

So problems I knew about when I got the truck, wirings was jerry rigged from the uncle that got it when my grandad passed away. Also the tilt steering column was broke from my lazy fat ass uncle used it to get in and out of the truck. Also some rust but a lot less than was on my bronco. Eventually I plan on building either a 302 good for about 300 hp, manual swap, maybe even a gear swap, fix the rust, and do a budget paint job.

Since I’ve had it, I took the interior out, cleaned it all up, installed Kilmat everywhere except for the driver side floor board where I still need to fix some rust. Got ahold of a used non tilt steering column and got that installed. It’s been hard to find time to work on it since I was out of town for work from middle of January to beginning of April and then middle of June to beginning of August.

Stockpiled some ignition parts over the last couple months and got the starter solenoid, positive battery cable, and ignition coil installed today. Still doesn’t start.

Anyway, I know that was a lot to catch up for over the last 9 months. Now onto pictures. And if anyone is any good with wiring, I would definitely appreciate some help with the rats nest on this thing.
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1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
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Looks like a solid old truck, you got a couple of options with that rusted floor board, with it being such a small area you could buy a pan and just cut a patch out of it and replace OR you could clean all the rust up, put something like POR 15 or just a good thick coat of paint on it and then put a fiberglass patch over it.

As far as wiring goes, looks like we got a button for the horn maybe? And then looks like we bypassed the key switch with a toggle and another button? Don't let wiring scare you, just get a good test light, a cheap multi meter, watch some youtube videos on how to use one, and last but not least a wiring diagram. Its tedious sometimes, and people without patience to fix things correctly do things like you have there, run wires from the battery to a switch...First thing i would do is if it looks like it was an added wire, or switch, i would pull all that crap out and get back to the factory wiring, then find the broken, relay, blow fuse, shorted wire, broken ground, or bad switch that was causing the original problem in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Looks like a solid old truck, you got a couple of options with that rusted floor board, with it being such a small area you could buy a pan and just cut a patch out of it and replace OR you could clean all the rust up, put something like POR 15 or just a good thick coat of paint on it and then put a fiberglass patch over it.

As far as wiring goes, looks like we got a button for the horn maybe? And then looks like we bypassed the key switch with a toggle and another button? Don't let wiring scare you, just get a good test light, a cheap multi meter, watch some youtube videos on how to use one, and last but not least a wiring diagram. Its tedious sometimes, and people without patience to fix things correctly do things like you have there, run wires from the battery to a switch...First thing i would do is if it looks like it was an added wire, or switch, i would pull all that crap out and get back to the factory wiring, then find the broken, relay, blow fuse, shorted wire, broken ground, or bad switch that was causing the original problem in the first place.
So I already have 18 ga. steel on hand for the patch, plus a fresh tank of 75/25 and a new welder. So I plan on the proper permanent fix for the floor.

As far as the wiring goes, I absolutely hate electrical work. I can and will gladly do mechanical all day long, I do it for a living and love it, although on ships. But when it comes to electrical, even with a schematic, Im as lost as a blind man in a hedge maze. I do wanna get it fixed correctly, and I’m sure it would benefit me to learn more about electrical, but it’s daunting, especially since I really just don’t know where to begin. I still have some parts I feel that need to be replaced under the hood. Still have spark plugs to change out, plug wires, fuel pump. Plus since the truck has been sitting a total of 4 years now, I’m sure the tanks need to be dropped and cleaned or replaced, and fuel lines blown out.

As far as testers go, what should I look for and also, where’s a good place to find a wiring diagram?
 

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1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
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You can probably do most of your troubleshooting with a simple 12v test light. You hook it to a ground anywhere and touch the wire to see if it’s hot or not. They sell them everywhere.
As far as a multimeter goes a cheap one will do you fine too as long as it has the ability to test continuity. All that means is you can hold a probe on one end of a wire and one on the other and if it beeps the wire is good if not it has a break or a short in it.
multimeters are good for lots of other stuff when it comes to testing voltage, relays, resistance. I’m still finding new ways to use mine. Oh and at least get one with a digital readout.
as far as a wiring diagram I’m sure you can find one online, but I’d probably just pick up a Haynes manual or chiltons that way you have all the diagrams in one place and details on how to troubleshoot.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I came across this disassembled engine for sale about 20 minutes from me. Guy said it overheated, tore it down, didn’t find any damage and just never reassembled it. The ad says forged pistons as well. It’s listed at $250 but I’m sure I could get it for $200 or less. Does it look like a good deal?
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It’s a roll of the dice, you can find running 302s or 5.0s out there for 300 bucks that may just need a good cleaning and resealing . Also depends on the cylinder heads, what kind of camshaft was in it. If you just slap that thing back together and don’t get the pistons back in the right spot or the lifters
Back in the right spot you could grind down a cam lobe or break a ring or have crap compression. Or it all could work fine....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It’s a roll of the dice, you can find running 302s or 5.0s out there for 300 bucks that may just need a good cleaning and resealing . Also depends on the cylinder heads, what kind of camshaft was in it. If you just slap that thing back together and don’t get the pistons back in the right spot or the lifters
Back in the right spot you could grind down a cam lobe or break a ring or have crap compression. Or it all could work fine....
So regardless of what was in it, it would get different heads, new camshaft, new lifters, new cam, rod and main bearings. How important is it that the rods and pistons go back in the same spot?
 

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Those rods have worn a pattern on the crank journals and those pistons have done the same thing in those bores. Now most good engine builders Mark each rod and piston with what goes where.
If you change up that pattern you run the risk of wearing everything out faster because it’s going to wear a new pattern.
Now if you don’t know what went where (bearings too) you could get the crank turned and new bearings installed and maybe a machine shop could mic the pistons and bores and match those back up.
I’d offer him 100 bucks for it all because it’s basically a core.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Those rods have worn a pattern on the crank journals and those pistons have done the same thing in those bores. Now most good engine builders Mark each rod and piston with what goes where.
If you change up that pattern you run the risk of wearing everything out faster because it’s going to wear a new pattern.
Now if you don’t know what went where (bearings too) you could get the crank turned and new bearings installed and maybe a machine shop could mic the pistons and bores and match those back up.
I’d offer him 100 bucks for it all because it’s basically a core.
So I’d definitely do new bearings throughout. I’ll see how low he’ll go.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So I ended up not getting the engine pictured above. Found another one, a little further away, that was cheaper and I felt better about it. F1SE block which hasn’t been bored over, con rods, pistons, 2 water pumps, crankshaft which appears to just need a polish, and 15 out of 16 roller lifters (hoping I can get away with buying one stock roller lifter). Not bad for $80.
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Nice! Here's a top tip, if you can run your fingernail over the main journals and it "catches" on any scratches, then you will need to get it turned...same goes for the cylinder bores, if theres any scratches and your fingernail catches (even slightly) it will likely need a boring, but you can try just a quick hone to see if that cleans it up, same for the crank journal and quick wipe with some emery cloth may clean it up, just be careful.
 

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I will also add, those rod bearings look a little concerning to me, you can see where the top layer is missing from a portion of the bearing, when its uneven like that sometimes thats a sign of poor oiling (at least at one point in its life), i would highly recommend getting that thing inspected at a machine shop because there may not be any gouges or scratches you can feel, but those crank or rod journals may be egg shaped
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So some somewhat big news. It fired off yesterday......kinda. I had a buddy of mine who’s good with auto wiring come give me a hand. He was able to figure out where the issues were and after getting a proper ground, a few screwdrivers, and some starter fluid, it turned over with ease. So I got some new fusible links and ignition relay in order, when that comes in, the wiring will get cleaned up and hopefully will fire up using the key. Also ordered new gas tanks, new sending units, extra fuel filter, and carb. So hopefully, once all that is installed and there some new gas in the tanks, I’m hoping it’ll run and drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well got some more parts rolling in today and over the next few days. Also managed to leave work early today and had enough time to install my new valve springs from Alex Parts. Depending on how long it takes for my concrete that’s getting poured tomorrow or Friday to cure, I might be able to get the bed off and gas tanks dropped before thanksgiving.
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Discussion Starter #15
Finally welded in a patch panel in the floor of my F150. Good grief, I really need to practice welding sheet metal if I’m gonna do anymore body myself. The welds look like straight trash. Didn’t realize I didn’t have enough gas flow at first and kept blowing through as well as having the puddle turn into a little mountain. It’s watertight and has been painted but I’m far from proud of it.

Hopefully I can work on getting the bed off this weekend. The rear tank finally showed up, just waiting on the front tank now.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Based on the pictures in the beginning of the thread, what is the color code/name for the carpet. Since the patch is done, all that’s left is finish the sound deadener and install new carpet. I considering either Cutpile with Mass backing or Essex with Mass backing from Rockauto. As far as color, there’s Oxblood, Red, or Maroon. Also, if anyone has any experience with carpeting from Rockauto, I’d love to hear it.

And lastly, since I already have Kilmat installed, would that, combined with the thickness of Essex carpet with mass back cause issues with pressing the gas pedal all the way down (sounds stupid but just a thought)
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Discussion Starter #17
I got the spare tire removed last night with the intentions of pulling the tanks out today. Well that plan went to hell when the bolts for the tank straps were too rusty and stripped when I put a wrench on them. So I decided to pull the bed and remove the tanks from up top. Well that didn’t work after 4 out of 8 bed bolts were stripped. So I have to remove the heads with a burr bit from up top. Now I just need to get my brothers over to help pull the bed. Also got the last two pieces of Kilmat I had on hand installed. Need to order another box so I can finish the driver side and above the headliner.

Also, my engine plans might be changing. I was trying to decide between just boring out my block and going 306/308 or going up to a 331 for about $1300 for a balanced kit. Well for whatever reason, balanced 347 kits are cheaper than 331s by $300. Summit carries balanced Eagle 347 kits from $950 on up. Also, trying to decide between running the GT40 heads I have or grabbing a set of Promaxx heads. Which all this will change cam choice of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So I happened to crossing the Facebook marketplace last night, and found these literally 2 minutes after they were posted. Got them for $120 which is about 1/2 to 2/3 what I’ve been seeing them go for recently. Obviously I need the 2WD center caps. The bigger question is how to get this crap off the face of the wheels. I thought it was residue from sticky weights or something but Goo-Gone did nothing. I don’t wanna take a wire brush to them cause I don’t wanna mess the finish up. Any suggestions?
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Discussion Starter #19
Well I tried my hand with stripping one of the wheels with a die grinder and a scotch brite pad. Didn’t turn out horrible. I knew I’d have had to sand the wheels back to a polishable finish anyway. But this was so much easier than trying to hand sand the clearcoat and finish off. Now to just do the other 3. Although I may try aircraft remover or paint stripper first just to see if that reduces the amount of sanding required later.
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Well made some big-ish but fast progress today. Played in a mini golf tournament with my brothers and dad and was able to convince my brothers to swing by after we finished the round to help me pick up the bed and store it on top my trailer for the time being. I’d like to put the bed in the garage but it would just take up so much space, plus it really doesn’t need any work that requires me to put it inside. On the plus side, I now have unobstructed access to both fuel tanks and the frame. So once the tanks are dropped, I plan on wire wheeling everything and rattle canning it black, maybe POR15. Hope to get Do to some more work tomorrow.
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