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1985 Eddie Bauer build

73190 Views 406 Replies 41 Participants Last post by  mtbikerTi, 
AbandonedBronco
4
So, as some of you know, my '81 was rear ended a few months ago.

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...ronco-wheeling-related/474274-built-last.html

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...ng-related/476545-sad-day-but-undeterred.html

I found myself a nice '85 while I was visiting friends in Seattle. It was in nice shape, but just a little rough. I could just tell it was very solid (doors clicked closed nicely, no rips or tears in the interior), just some cosmetic stuff that needed work, like a broken wing window, cracked windshield, some body rust, etc. Bought it for $1800 and drove it 500 miles home. It has 50,000 on the odometer and I'm imagining considering it's condition, that it's probably 150k. It also hasn't been registered since 2011.

Over the next few months, all of the goodies from my '81 will be going into the new '85. My family tells me I should call it the Phoenix since it'll be bringing the other back to life.

Time for a build thread!


It's a 1985 Eddie Bauer edition with all the bells and whistles. I had looked at several other Broncos, and found a few I liked, but despite the issues it had, this one stood out. I also like that it has a tan interior, which is about the only other color aside from the awesome black interior of my '81 that I could stand. (I even passed up some nicer Broncos because I knew I couldn't stomach the pimp red interior for the next who knows how many years. :toothless)

Another set of pictures I took half way home from Seattle. Had to stop and commemorate the new Bronco. I'm hoping the original Ford Bronco tire cover will fit over 32" tires, but I have my doubts.




Here it is sitting next to my '81


I just finished building my 300 in April, so it'll definitely be going in in the near future. It currently has an EFI 302 and an AOD. I'm debating between the NP435 I have in the '81 or getting a ZF5. The 3.00 worked great with the NP435 but the 3.55s in the '85 might be a bit much on the highway. An overdrive is much needed.

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...builds-only/408513-performance-300-build.html


I'll also be keeping the EFI pump and installing a fuel injection kit of some kind. I think I'm checked out on carbs.

Immediate things I knew it needed

Tachometer is all screwed up. Just sort of flops around and points wherever.
AOD shifts hard
Cracked windshield
Rust in the body panels and rotted tailgate
Fuel gauge doesn't work
Headliner sagging
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AbandonedBronco
3
Now that you mention it, the magnesium case does sound familiar. Good to know.
Anyone have any thoughts on whether it's better to put the NP208 back in? Or is it really no issue?


It's interesting you say a ZF5 with 3.73 or 4.11 gearing, since that's exactly what I have been thinking.
The first 2 gears of the 3.55s with the ZF5 actually have the same final ratio as the 3.00 with the NP435. So, the "granny low" and the starting gear are essentially the same (it's why I never swapped in a ZF and a 3.50 gear 9" into my '81. Besides a little overdrive, it'd be a lot of work for a little gain).

NP435
3.00 x 6.69 = 20.07
3.00 x 3.34 = 10.02
3.00 x 1.79 = 5.37
3.00 x 1.00 = 3.00

ZF5
3.55 x 5.72 = 20.31
3.55 x 2.94 = 10.44
3.55 x 1.81 = 6.43
3.55 x 1.00 = 3.55
3.55 x 0.76 = 2.70

But with 3.73s or 4.11s, I'd gain more low end grunt and still have decent highway manners. The 4.11 x 0.76 = 3.12 which is just about what my 3.00 with my NP435 is. I think it'd be a great combo.


In the mean time, the body shop sent me some pictures of the progress. :D




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Skitter302
Neat deal being able to see somebody taking the time and money to restore a Bronco. I would just flip if somebody hit my Bronco. IF I ever was hit by another driver I would hope it would be on the front, Much easier to fix.

Keep it up!
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AbandonedBronco
Not much of an update, but they have the rear fender well in.

Their body guy was on another project all week and just got to the Bronco, so it should move quickly now.
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1985 Bronco
You should have them drill some drain holes in those rear fender wells, so the rear arches don't rust out again
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AbandonedBronco
Interesting idea. Anywhere in particular on the arches? And is it something I can do after I get it back?
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1985 Bronco
Here's a pic from Diesel Brad. I did the exact same thing on my bronco, but drilled slightly larger holes. You might be able to do it afterwards if you are very careful with the hole saw, but I would do it before the quarters go on.

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BigBlue 94
As for your transfer case situation, the np208 has the "highest" low gear at 2.61. The bw cases are slightly lower, around 2.69.

Np 208 and bw1345 are aluminum cased. 1356 and the big brother 4407 are magnesium.
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AbandonedBronco
1985 Bronco said:
Here's a pic from Diesel Brad. I did the exact same thing on my bronco, but drilled slightly larger holes. You might be able to do it afterwards if you are very careful with the hole saw, but I would do it before the quarters go on.

Click to expand...
Only one quarter is going on, so the other side would have to be done on-vehicle either way. Thanks for the pic, I can see how something like that would let it drain.
Wouldn't that also have the flip side of allowing more water up in there though?

BigBlue 94 said:
As for your transfer case situation, the np208 has the "highest" low gear at 2.61. The bw cases are slightly lower, around 2.69.

Np 208 and bw1345 are aluminum cased. 1356 and the big brother 4407 are magnesium.
Click to expand...
It's interesting how many numbers I see. I've seen the NP208 listed at 2.61 and 2.69 (my case is stamped as 2.61) and for the BW1345 I've seen 2.69 and 2.72 (my case is stamped as 2.72). Did they vary, I wonder?

Either way, from what I'm reading/hearing, I'm not getting any real vibe that there's anything to gain from swapping the BW out for the NP, so I'll keep it and have the (slightly) more aggressive low gear.
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BigBlue 94
From what I saw, the 1345 was 2.72, and the 1356 was 2.69. My np208 is 2.61.

I agree, there's no real clear winner between the three. Stick with what your bronco was set up for.
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1985 Bronco
AbandonedBronco said:
Only one quarter is going on, so the other side would have to be done on-vehicle either way. Thanks for the pic, I can see how something like that would let it drain.
Wouldn't that also have the flip side of allowing more water up in there though?
Click to expand...
Yes, but you have more access to clean it. Dirt/mud is the real problem. It gets trapped up there, and is really hard to get cleaned out, and that is what causes the wheel wells to rust out on all 80-96 trucks. I had a bunch of dirt trapped in there when I removed the inner fender on my 85, and I've seen it before in other build threads.
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1985 Bronco
Thought it was only gonna be 2-3 weeks at the body shop, are they making any progress?
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W
great idea!!!!
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AbandonedBronco
That was the original estimate, but since then they had their hired help quit, their body shop guy's wife had a baby, etc. and he admitted that he was overly optimistic to begin with. I understand stuff happens, and they cut me a great deal, so I'm not complaining.

More realistically now looking to be the mid to end of this month (December), so hopefully I'll be getting some updates soon.
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BigBlue 94
Yo AB, what's up with the bronco? Has it made it out of the body shop yet?
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AbandonedBronco
BigBlue 94 said:
Yo AB, what's up with the bronco? Has it made it out of the body shop yet?
Click to expand...
:banghead
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AbandonedBronco
No. It's not back yet.
Things have slowed to a crawl at his shop with his drop in staff.
He's currently working with some other body shops to move projects around and get stuff done, but it's been really really slow.
I spoke with him yesterday and he said that mine is on the list for this week, but I guess we'll see. I'm patient, but this is getting tedious.
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BigBlue 94
Well that is ridiculous, but not much you can do about it. I bet you're dying to get her back home
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SRWillis
First off, I can't believe I've missed this build thread! I've been wondering how it was going with your new Bullnose.

AbandonedBronco said:
It'd be an afternoon job...
Click to expand...
That seems to be the way the work on mine goes too

AbandonedBronco said:
After I took off the skid plate, I was astounded with how much rust there was...
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I found that when I dropped my tank too. Not quite as bad, but I thought I just had surface rust but when I put the wire wheel to it I found pinholes. I think it's the same thing that gets the quarters and tailgates; essentially exposed to mud all the time.

AbandonedBronco said:
I wanted to go with a plastic tank, but it was about $220 shipped and a steel one was about $85 on Amazon Prime. I couldn't justify the plastic one.
Click to expand...
Same reason I went back with steel again. I like the skid plate, looks very heavy duty.
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SRWillis
AbandonedBronco said:
The rear left has some surface rust that they're going to just patch up.
Click to expand...
I know it's been with them a while, and I know you are (understandably so) getting impatient, but I would have them check both sides real good in this area. The support comes down right there and it is prone to rust for the same reason the wheel wells do.

Mine came from the desert and the only rust through on the outside of the body was where the paint was bubbling where the rectangle is cut out in the pic. You can see the support through the hole.



BTW, while telling them you want it done ASAP, also make sure to tell them you still want it done right: that's a lot of work they are doing, you don't want them tempted to cut corners to get it back to you quicker.

Lookin' forward to seeing her all painted up! :twotu::twotu::twotu:
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AbandonedBronco
Thanks for the heads up. I actually did see this was rusted on mine and pointed it out to them. It's been a few so hopefully they remember to grind it out and beef it up. If not, it might be something I do myself as it doesn't have to be pretty. :D
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