1985 Eddie Bauer build

Quick project:

My passenger window motor died a few days ago. I'd hear the motor click when I hit the switch, but nothing would happen. Every once in a while, it'd go, but... either way, it was dying.
When I'd had the door panels off before, I saw that the driver's side motor was already replaced (the holes were drilled) but the passenger side was not. It was also always about half as fast as the driver's side. I knew I'd be replacing it soon, just didn't figure it'd be this soon.

First things first, pulled the door panel and pulled back the moisture barrier. It's pretty torn up, so it might be time to get some new ones.



Despite not having holes for the motor bolts, Ford at least thought ahead and put little dimples where to drill. This also made it super easy to drill since the bit would center right where it needed to be and dug right in. There's 3 bolts, but only 2 drill points. The third is kinda/sorta reachable through the opening.





I first drilled big enough for the bolt head, but then quickly realized that it wasn't big enough for a socket.



The bolts are 5/16", so I found a drill bit ever so slightly larger than my socket. It was just barely, as I had to wiggle the drill bit just a hair as I was drilling to get the socket to go in. I wanted the holes as small as possible.



I was having issues with space, so I figured instead of fighting it, I'd take the 30 seconds it takes to remove the wing window. Two screws on the top of the door and one bolt from the side.



This bracket is also only held on by a single phillips.



Once the wing window is out, the main window comes right out.



Figured while I was in this far, I'd also replace the weather stripping. I replaced all the weather stripping on my '81 a year or two ago, so I pulled it off to put on this one.



Time to take the motor out. This bolt was the hardest to get to since it was still behind sheet metal. But, easy enough to get to with a wrench. Even then, it was still at a slight angle, so I couldn't get a solid bite on it. But, either way, got it out.



Then, just put the socket through the two holes and removed the other bolts. A little tug on the motor and it popped right off. There's no springs or tension on the regulator, so it was very easy.
New motor and old motor. I shortened up the wires on the new motor with some zip ties. It was crazy long. Fortunately, the wires are all under the wing window, so they're not in the way of being caught on anything.





Put the new motor in place and then wiggled it around a little until the teeth meshed with the regulator.



Reversed the process. Glass installed, new weather stripping.



This corner also has a tendency for the weather stripping to break with age. The fresh weatherstripping from my '81 fixed it.




Now, the motor zips up and down nicely!

Okay!
Got the interior all put back together.
The only thing left to do is the door panels. Funny, since this entire project was about getting those painted, and they're still the last part.
The door panels I got from JBG were for "Power Windows / Power Locks", but all they did was put suggestion holes for them. They don't fit the switches at all (especially not the double wide switch for the windows on the driver's side). So, that's going to be a bit more work to properly cut those to fit. Plus, I want to look into moving over the felt lining and chrome trim from my current doors.

Also, I taped off the weather stripping (since it's put on with some major staples that would have been a bear to remove), and my edging wasn't the best. I need to go back with a brush and clean it up.



But, overall, the door panels turned out pretty nice.



Handles in place





These are the sun rotted b-pillars. They were a bit crumbly.





The new cleaned up ones next to the old ones.





The new B-pillar's in place.





The color matching is significantly closer than the Buckskin I used before.



I noticed I missed some of the edging on the back panels. The "shine" is actually sun-bleached, and not a reflection.



I didn't have my brother's sprayer, so I just applied it with a paper towel. It worked really well.
This is also something else I want to clean up. There is an amp mounted here that a previous owner installed. However, there's a dozen or two screw holes that I have no idea why they're there (the amp was actually mounted in the upper left). Not sure what was here before, but I'd like to fill them.



Back panel in place.



Does anyone know what this little piece is for? It looks like a delete of some kind, but I have no idea:





The body also does not come pre-drilled, and the holes for the trim are done at the factory with self tapping screws. Someone on the assembly line must've been in a hurry for lunch.





Another item for my "to do" list. Looks like, at some point, an animal got in and made a nest of the insulation. I pulled a big shredded wad of it out from behind the speaker. Now a patch is missing.




The only real damage to the interior. Fortunately, once in place, and secure, this is a non-issue.



I ordered new interior pins for this job. I had no idea how many I was going to need, so I ordered the 50 pack. For $6.99 shipped, it was a great deal. They were also just as good, if not better, than the originals. Highly recommend them!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LW6K0M7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1






The cleaned up rear arm rests. Not QUITE as clean as I'd like them, but way better than they were.



For comparison:



Put the light back in place:



At some point, if I run out of projects, I might re-chrome it. :toothless



Next the ash trays. I don't use them, but it's certainly better than leaving an empty hole. I tried to think of something I could put here instead. Maybe some tweeter speakers or something?









The previous speakers were some 6x9s and a P.O. had made some custom mounting plates out of thin wood and carpet, and mounted them with wood screws. I wanted to get more of a stock look, so I pulled these out of my '81 and installed them. Interestingly, when I got my '81, there were just holes in the back, so I found these covers in a junk yard about 14 years go. They were originally tan before I painted them black.
I liked the way the black off-set the interior, so I left them black. These are the stock-sized 6x8" speakers.



Buttoning it up with the trim around the shell.





I was really pleased how well the color matched the rest of the interior. The headliner is now about the only thing that doesn't truly match.



Both sides left a little bit of a gap. I'm wondering if that's because they're out of an '87 - 91 Bronco. It wasn't bad enough to concern me.



Now I need to clean these up!



And fill the old screw holes for the previous speakers.



All finished:



The P.O.'s amp cover can be seen here (same material/style as the rear speakers were). I'm trying to think of a different cover. The amp is only about 1/3 of the space behind it, so it'd be nice to fashion something up that both covers it, and maybe adds another storage pocket or something. But, for now, I'll just reuse this and keep the amp out of sight.





Next will be finishing up the doors. And then a deep carpet cleaning!

Cool! Thanks, that really had me wondering. That totally makes sense now.

Snagged this picture off of bronco zone. Thanks to whoever it belongs to. I've never looked at a Bronco with an internal spare.

Took a trip to visit my parents for Father's Day this weekend, and to hit up my 20 year highschool reunion (been that long already??).

Noticed that it was surging at higher RPMs, so I immediately thought fuel filter (which I hadn't replaced).

Went and got a replacement and pulled the old one in my parents driveway. It looks like NO ONE has ever replaced it.

Well, this followed me home last night!



After this incident:

https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/7-1980-96-bronco-tech/496410-heater-box-caught-fire.html

I was out in the junk yard getting a new heater box. I found one, pulled it (not too bad, but nearly as easy as one without A/C), and then was walking through the rest of the yard to see what might peak my interest.
I was just about on my way out when I noticed a '95 that had the hydraulic clutch master cylinder in the engine bay. The emblems were gone, so I had no idea if it was an F150/250/350, etc.
Peaked in the cab and saw the shifter coming through the floor (the shift handle was removed). So, the transmission was still present.

Crawled underneath to see what it might be and... it was a ZF5. Not only was it a ZF5, but it was 4x4. So far so good.
I couldn't tell what the engine was, so I still had no idea if it was a small block, big block, or diesel. Checked the tag on the transmission and it was a 5.72 ratio, which means gas motor.
Sill, big block or small block?
Pulled out my phone and tossed in the VIN off the door, and lo and behold, it was a 5.8!

I called a buddy of mine and the two of us pulled the whole thing out in about 3 hours. They don't allow jacks in the yard (don't want vehicles falling on people), so we had to get clever with a strap and a come-a-long (actually worked super well) and drop it all down.
The transfer case was a BW1356, so I took that too to upgrade my 1345.

All in all, for the transmission, transfer case, shifters, cross member, and transmission hump cover..... $315 out the door.

Home in the garage next to the '81





Model: S5-42 (I was hoping for a 47, but... alas)
Ford Part Number: F4TA-7003-BA
Total Ratio: 5.72 - 0.76
Build Date: 02-08-94








The transfer case and extra goodies.





The only issue with the 1356 is that it's a slip yolk (and I have to go back to the yard with a press to get the slip yolk itself as it was attached to an 8' driveshaft that I didn't want to buy).
I'm going to look through the yard and see if I can find a 1356 with a fixed yolk, or else I have to find a new driveshaft to go with the slip yolk. But, it'll be nice having the more robust 1356.


I've been going back and forth between the ZF5 and the NV4500 for a few weeks now. I'm even in talks with a transmission company who is researching whether or not they can put the wide ratio GM gears into the Dodge casing. Basically, that would be the same ratios as the NP-435 with an added overdrive. I really really liked the idea of that, plus the cast iron NV4500, but... when something like this falls into your lap, you just have to go with it! For the NV4500, I was looking at around $2500 or more for the transmission and the conversion parts. Now I can spend that savings on something else.


As for the ZF5, it seems to shift nicely, but I'm going to take it to a transmission shop to have them give it a look-over.

Just doing some fun math. With the 3.55s, the ZF5 should be very close to how my NP-435 was with the 3.00s in my '81. Just a more even spread of gears (5 vs. 4) and a little lower cruising gear, which should help with gas mileage.

NP-435 / 3.00

6.69 x 3.00 = 20.07
3.34 x 3.00 = 10.02
1.79 x 3.00 = 5.37
1.00 x 3.00 = 3.00

ZF5 / 3.55

5.72 x 3.55 = 20.31
2.94 x 3.55 = 10.44
1.61 x 3.55 = 5.72
1.00 x 3.55 = 3.55
0.76 x 3.55 = 2.70


The only thing that'll be rather different is reverse. The NP-435 has an insane reverse of 8.26:1. The ZF5 is a 5.24:1.
It'll have a slightly slower crawl ratio too, especially with the 2.72 of the BW transfer case.

My '81 was 3.00 x 6.69 x 2.61 = 52.38
My '85 will be 3.55 x 5.72 x 2.69 = 54.62

Look what Tommy found!


A guy in the stix was selling a bronco cheap. I saw the underhood toolbox in the photos, probably could have gotten it for $5, but at least offered the guy a fair $50. Still a steal. Havent found one since I sold my truck with the box still in it years ago