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1986 Bronco XLT "BUKNBUL"

9250 Views 88 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  sackman9975
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Well it's time....I'm going to start a build thread for my 1986 Bronco that I acquired back in March of 2021. This will be virtually a Ground Up Build.

Originally, I was going to purchase a new 2021 Bronco but then decided, it really isn't what I truly wanted.

I started my search for a Bullnose Bronco mainly with the idea of finding something along the lines of my first Bronco I had when I was 17. With a little help from @MS88Bronc and a quick call to say "hey get on Facebook and look to see what I tagged you too", I was able to get this project that you all are about read on.

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Immediately I contacted the seller and worked out a deal offering him exactly what he wanted. Wired the money and BAMM I got EXACTLY what I was looking for!! Had it shipped from Texas and when it got here it was better than expected! I don't think this thing has EVER been off road. The under body is so clean (minus the oil leak) and everything is as solid as it came off the factory line.

Now I've had this truck for a year now and only put maybe 30 - 40 miles on it. Leaks oil like no other but that's ok. Why? Because I got plans for this thing!!!
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Currently as factory, it comes with the 302 FI with the AOD transmission. Has 3.55 open diff and BW1354 transfer case.

I recently did a barter deal with a guy here in Michigan for some parts. I told him I needed parts off his parts truck which was a 1996 Bronco Eddie Bauer with the 351W/E4OD. After working on his truck for 2 hours, I was able to score the 8.8 (H9), all the wiring from the truck and the computer.

So my plans are to make this truck 351 MAF / E4OD using the OBD2 system. I have a 351W in my garage that I had built years ago that's bored .030, E303 cam fully balanced. It moved my last 95 Bronco pretty good on Speed Density. But I've been thinking of maybe doing something different (stroker) with it....not sure just yet.

During the past year I have removed the billet grille and push bar and put a new grill with Ford Emblem, new bumper guards on the front, removed the crappy running boards and found a dash pad from a swap meet that was in MUCH BETTER shape than what it came with.

Automotive parking light Tire Wheel Car Plant


Removed the fancy 1980 steering wheel wrap only to find a MINT steering wheel!!

Car Vehicle Window Motor vehicle Steering wheel


Motor vehicle Steering part Steering wheel Automotive exterior Car


So I'm hoping I can find time to get this project completed in about a year. From drivetrain to paint, this will be my FOREVER Bronco. It WILL NOT see a Michigan winter, I can promise you that!!

Now.....Let the fun begin!!
In queue I have new Warn Premium Hubs, a set of Chrome Nerf Bars, a working clock, 4.10 gears and rebuild kit for the 8.8 LS.
I have 2 E4OD transmissions in my garage, one being from a 96. The 96 trans I was told only had 40k miles on it back in 2004 but it's been sitting for 16 years with me. I'm on the fence if I want to rebuild the 96 E4OD or just pick up a factory unit from Monster. I'm certain the seals are probably shot. I think for an extra $1000 from the rebuild kit price, it may be worth the headache. I have rebuilt a few transmissions in my life and they have all worked, but never an E4OD...plus I'm fairly a busy guy. So time is valuable too.

I need to source a few more parts for my project.
Manual Transfer Case linkage from a 91-96
E4OD Steering Column linkage from a 90-91
O/D Button with housing and pigtail from a 90-91
4.10/4.11 gears or a D50 Pig.

My plans for the PSOM is to either one of two things. Either tuck a working PSOM behind the dash and cable drive the existing speedo or integrate the guts from the PSOM with the face of the Bullnose Speedo. Still waiting for a junk speedo to try and see what I can do.

Going to document as I go. Going to be plenty of work including electrical integrating the 86 wiring with the 96 wiring. My goal is to be able to drive it this year, while sending it in for paint during winter of 2022/2023.
I can't wait to cruise this thing!!

Going to start pulling the H9 axle apart probably this weekend to start the rebuild of it.

In case you want to see how it was when I got it, I did a couple of "unboxing vids"


Stay tuned!!
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Little bit of progress today, had to go north yesterday to pick the boy up so not much time to work on things.

I started by trying to pull all these wires and clip them so they're as long as possible. Because I have to extend the harness so that the PCM connection will be in the cab, this will be the harness I solder to the harness I'm using. Luckily I have two.
Wood Electric blue Pattern Art Jewellery

Branch Road surface Twig Wood Asphalt


Once I got that done, I worked on the original harness to pull the rubber grommet off.

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Then it was time to feed wires through this grommet.

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I was able to get the needed wires through but what a pain it was.

Still having a little bit of time for the evening, I went ahead and pulled all the wires from the 96 in cab harness that goes to the main plug.

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This side I'll silicone up once I get the truck running to make it as water tight as possible. This will act as a dead end connector.
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I believe my next step is to start soldering and sealing the harness together.
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Tonight I started to extend the harness.
I got half the plug extended. Hoping to finalize the extension tomorrow.
Wife decided to snap a picture of me..lol
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Well, 14 hours of soldering, 2 soldering irons and the harness is about 95% complete. I still need to connect the PSOM and the DATA port to the PCM as well as the O/D Cancel switch. I also need to make it pretty (tape and loom) and will do that tonight or tomorrow.

But I found a mistake I made in an earlier post with all the wire transfers regarding the O/D Cancel switch....

Couple wiring maps. I have checked all outlined and documented wires to verify that they connect in the current harness as such.

First is PSOM and O/D Cancel Switch to PCM
View attachment 198872
Need to make a note regarding this as I have listed O/D Cancel switch as being pin 3. It's actually "CIRCUT 3"
The wire is actually in this harness under the hood as pin 24:



So I had to pull this wire through the grommet so that I can hook up the switch inside the cab.
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Wiring harness is done except for the in cab wiring. It's in place. Engine is ready to be put in. Planning on doing this tomorrow.

I've currently got a roadblock......I need a throttle cable bracket for this intake. Hoping I can source one.

Going to add a teaser pick. This is how the engine is going to look. Of course this is parts resting on it, not bolted on and it's a behind shot...lol

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I guess little progress is PROGRESS!

Got the engine in today minus upper intake. I didn't want to use my greasy chains so I bought a clean ratchet strap from the Depot. Didn't realize until I got home they were flat ended straps... but still made them work....lol.

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My original engine builder back in 2007 who was my ex wife's uncle (god rest his soul) decided since I was family, he would send me off with a little gag gift....

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Yes... that's Chevy Orange... his comment was, "All Ford's run better with a little Chevy power behind them".

Well this engine ran great before....so why change it? Lol. I heard any Chevy Orange paint boosts horsepower by 15HP and Diesel Green gives you 60 ft lbs extra torque. Should be a runner!! Lol :ROFLMAO:

And here she sits in the engine bay.

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Next on the list is to install the transmission. Hopefully tomorrow after work.
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Yesterday, I got the trans installed. Man what a BEAST that was.
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Still have a few more things like getting the dipstick bolted to the bell housing, putting the nuts on the converter Studs and installing the transmission line which are simple tasks. But now I have to figure out what to do about a crossmember. The AOD crossmember mounts too far forward. So it would go across the pan. So either custom crossmember or I drill holes to move it back. But the fuel filter reservoir is going to be right where I need to mount it.
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I was also able to pick up the hens tooth throttle cable bracket I was in dire need of. The guy I got all my GT40 parts from was able to locate it.... THANKFULLY
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Today I have to find bolts for the trans mount. I'm probably going to have to take one out of my 95 and go to the hardware store.
EDIT: Found this

Also I need put the engine dipstick tube in. I forgot to put it in while mounting the headers.

Here's to hoping the evening is rain free....
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looks great, I am sure it will run good.

The e4od cross member from a newer bronco should work with few extra holes in the frame. Tho I have only went the other way from an e4od to C6 in my 92
a TMR cross member kit would make quick work of a new one tho, and give you tons of extra room for exhaust options.
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looks great, I am sure it will run good.

The e4od cross member from a newer bronco should work with few extra holes in the frame. Tho I have only went the other way from an e4od to C6 in my 92
a TMR cross member kit would make quick work of a new one tho, and give you tons of extra room for exhaust options.
I have a crossmember from a newer Bronco, and honestly I think it's identical to the one that came out.
I will probably utilize one of them. But how important do you think the braces (shown below) are for the cross member? Because if I have to use them, the fuel filter reservoir is in the way.
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I am sure they do add some rigidity to the frame, especially being a C style frame.
But, I would not be afraid of not using them, if it was a basically a street only bronco. Or making my own cross-member further back for a antiwrap bar or tcase skid that tied the top and bottom together.

Interesting as the e4od one I had in my 92, did not look the same at all, and would have needed a bunch of small changes to work moved further up. It mounted to the outside of the frame on 1 side, vs the C6 one was all on the inside. However the C6 one I pulled from an 86, bolted right into my 92 with minimal effort, maybe had to drill 2 holes.
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More progress
Got the crossmember installed. Ended up utilizing the crossmember that @MS88Bronc gave me from his truck. Had to drill 4 holes to make it fit, 3 on passenger side frame and one on drivers. It's positioned directly under the fuel filter reservoir. Thankfully I was able to source a couple of carbide drill bits from work. Arms felt like butter afterwards.
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I also have the power steering bracket and alternator brackets in place.

Goal for this weekend is to get the transfer case installed, Rear driveshaft, shift linkage completed and button the engine up. I'm hoping that the little bit of electrical tie ins go smoothly and that I can fire it up Sunday.

While under the truck, I couldn't help staring at the floor pans..... good lord they're CLEAN!

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Transfer case (just about the only thing that isn't new) - check
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Things that had to be removed to get that heavy SOB in.... these shields
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I had to lower the trans to even get the transfercase to go on to the output shaft.

Rear driveshaft - check
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Stainless steel transmission lines - check
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PSOM installed with 86 face - check
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I'm going to have to figure out why I have no dash lights.... so this will have to come back out. But not right now.

Only thing for wiring that's left is to find the wire from the inertia switch to fuel pumps. Everything else SHOULD BE good.

I have to finish buttoning up engine stuff, wire up the starter.

I'm close to completion. Trying to get this thing going this week!
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Sounds and looks great @sackman9975! Keep up the good work.
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Dash looks really good. I like that most people would not even know.
I like the changes that dont look like changes the best, and this whole build literally is like that.. if ford would of done the E4OD and EFI earlier then they did, this is what it would look like.

Be awesome to see this one in person some time.
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Dash looks really good. I like that most people would not even know.
I like the changes that dont look like changes the best, and this whole build literally is like that.. if ford would of done the E4OD and EFI earlier then they did, this is what it would look like.

Be awesome to see this one in person some time.
Thanks. I appreciate the compliment.
I'll admit, the PSOM integration was one of my favorites of this build.... although it makes no rumble, it still almost makes the speedo look factory and took some thinking and modification to get to work

Would love for you to see this as well.
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Well a lot has went on since last post.

First fired it up on Aug 4. Ran about 20 seconds and POOOOFFFF! Big fire ball in my face. Thankfully my son was in the driver's seat and shut the engine off when I yelled for him too. Ran in the garage and grabbed the fire extinguisher and put the fire out.

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Fuel pressure regulator was missing its gasket. Only damage was about 2 inches of fuel line. Unbelievable..... can't believe I got away with only that.
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Fixed the regulator. Fixed the fuel line. Then drove it to the exhaust shop on Aug 5. Once done, the wife and I went for a cruise. Seemed to be running really good for about 30 miles then I started feeling hiccups. I turned around and went home. By the time I got home, the roller rockers were chattering.

Pulled the valve covers and found this
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Every push rod was bent.

When I installed the roller rockers (never having installed a set before) I installed them like standard pedestal rockers. Lesson learned. The rockers were hitting their positive stops and bent the pushrods.

Removed the roller rockers, put a set of used pushrods in and reinstalled the factory rockers.
She's back up and running.

Had a power steering leak I was battling, ended up pulling the fitting out of the old pump and reinstalled the old line. Thankfully that's now resolved.

Took a video today a little walk around. Have a look
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Something's wrong......
Engine is cranking over like there's absolutely zero compression.

I'll find out more later..... hopefully I don't find a broken camshaft.
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Well, the cam is not broken.
I have done a compression test on all cylinders.
1-100
2-135
3-100
4-105
5-95
6-115
7-105
8-110

Based on these numbers, engine should be ok.

Fuel pressure
KOEO - 40psi
KOER - 40psi
KOER should be 32. Thinking not enough vacuum from the engine barely wanting to run keeping it at 40psi.

Currently it will not rev. Within 2 minutes the headers are GLOWING cherry red.

Starting to think the fuel injectors may be clogged due to maybe fire extinguisher dust entering the fuel rail from the missing gasket of the regulator upon initial start up.

It's been a gradual decline in performance from day one. To the point where it doesn't even want to start.

Will continue to diagnose....
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