Disconnect exhaust and try again? I understand it is new, but factory made parts can be bad out of the box.
1986 Bronco XLT "BUKNBUL"
Well it's time....I'm going to start a build thread for my 1986 Bronco that I acquired back in March of 2021. This will be virtually a Ground Up Build.
Originally, I was going to purchase a new 2021 Bronco but then decided, it really isn't what I truly wanted.
I started my search for a Bullnose Bronco mainly with the idea of finding something along the lines of my first Bronco I had when I was 17. With a little help from @MS88Bronc and a quick call to say "hey get on Facebook and look to see what I tagged you too", I was able to get this project that you all are about read on.
![Automotive parking light Wheel Car Tire Vehicle]()
Immediately I contacted the seller and worked out a deal offering him exactly what he wanted. Wired the money and BAMM I got EXACTLY what I was looking for!! Had it shipped from Texas and when it got here it was better than expected! I don't think this thing has EVER been off road. The under body is so clean (minus the oil leak) and everything is as solid as it came off the factory line.
Now I've had this truck for a year now and only put maybe 30 - 40 miles on it. Leaks oil like no other but that's ok. Why? Because I got plans for this thing!!!
![Wheel Tire Automotive parking light Car Vehicle]()
Currently as factory, it comes with the 302 FI with the AOD transmission. Has 3.55 open diff and BW1354 transfer case.
I recently did a barter deal with a guy here in Michigan for some parts. I told him I needed parts off his parts truck which was a 1996 Bronco Eddie Bauer with the 351W/E4OD. After working on his truck for 2 hours, I was able to score the 8.8 (H9), all the wiring from the truck and the computer.
So my plans are to make this truck 351 MAF / E4OD using the OBD2 system. I have a 351W in my garage that I had built years ago that's bored .030, E303 cam fully balanced. It moved my last 95 Bronco pretty good on Speed Density. But I've been thinking of maybe doing something different (stroker) with it....not sure just yet.
During the past year I have removed the billet grille and push bar and put a new grill with Ford Emblem, new bumper guards on the front, removed the crappy running boards and found a dash pad from a swap meet that was in MUCH BETTER shape than what it came with.
![Automotive parking light Tire Wheel Car Plant]()
Removed the fancy 1980 steering wheel wrap only to find a MINT steering wheel!!
![Car Vehicle Window Motor vehicle Steering wheel]()
![Motor vehicle Steering part Steering wheel Automotive exterior Car]()
So I'm hoping I can find time to get this project completed in about a year. From drivetrain to paint, this will be my FOREVER Bronco. It WILL NOT see a Michigan winter, I can promise you that!!
Now.....Let the fun begin!!
In queue I have new Warn Premium Hubs, a set of Chrome Nerf Bars, a working clock, 4.10 gears and rebuild kit for the 8.8 LS.
I have 2 E4OD transmissions in my garage, one being from a 96. The 96 trans I was told only had 40k miles on it back in 2004 but it's been sitting for 16 years with me. I'm on the fence if I want to rebuild the 96 E4OD or just pick up a factory unit from Monster. I'm certain the seals are probably shot. I think for an extra $1000 from the rebuild kit price, it may be worth the headache. I have rebuilt a few transmissions in my life and they have all worked, but never an E4OD...plus I'm fairly a busy guy. So time is valuable too.
I need to source a few more parts for my project.
Manual Transfer Case linkage from a 91-96
E4OD Steering Column linkage from a 90-91
O/D Button with housing and pigtail from a 90-91
4.10/4.11 gears or a D50 Pig.
My plans for the PSOM is to either one of two things. Either tuck a working PSOM behind the dash and cable drive the existing speedo or integrate the guts from the PSOM with the face of the Bullnose Speedo. Still waiting for a junk speedo to try and see what I can do.
Going to document as I go. Going to be plenty of work including electrical integrating the 86 wiring with the 96 wiring. My goal is to be able to drive it this year, while sending it in for paint during winter of 2022/2023.
I can't wait to cruise this thing!!
Going to start pulling the H9 axle apart probably this weekend to start the rebuild of it.
In case you want to see how it was when I got it, I did a couple of "unboxing vids"
Stay tuned!!
Originally, I was going to purchase a new 2021 Bronco but then decided, it really isn't what I truly wanted.
I started my search for a Bullnose Bronco mainly with the idea of finding something along the lines of my first Bronco I had when I was 17. With a little help from @MS88Bronc and a quick call to say "hey get on Facebook and look to see what I tagged you too", I was able to get this project that you all are about read on.
Immediately I contacted the seller and worked out a deal offering him exactly what he wanted. Wired the money and BAMM I got EXACTLY what I was looking for!! Had it shipped from Texas and when it got here it was better than expected! I don't think this thing has EVER been off road. The under body is so clean (minus the oil leak) and everything is as solid as it came off the factory line.
Now I've had this truck for a year now and only put maybe 30 - 40 miles on it. Leaks oil like no other but that's ok. Why? Because I got plans for this thing!!!
Currently as factory, it comes with the 302 FI with the AOD transmission. Has 3.55 open diff and BW1354 transfer case.
I recently did a barter deal with a guy here in Michigan for some parts. I told him I needed parts off his parts truck which was a 1996 Bronco Eddie Bauer with the 351W/E4OD. After working on his truck for 2 hours, I was able to score the 8.8 (H9), all the wiring from the truck and the computer.
So my plans are to make this truck 351 MAF / E4OD using the OBD2 system. I have a 351W in my garage that I had built years ago that's bored .030, E303 cam fully balanced. It moved my last 95 Bronco pretty good on Speed Density. But I've been thinking of maybe doing something different (stroker) with it....not sure just yet.
During the past year I have removed the billet grille and push bar and put a new grill with Ford Emblem, new bumper guards on the front, removed the crappy running boards and found a dash pad from a swap meet that was in MUCH BETTER shape than what it came with.
Removed the fancy 1980 steering wheel wrap only to find a MINT steering wheel!!
So I'm hoping I can find time to get this project completed in about a year. From drivetrain to paint, this will be my FOREVER Bronco. It WILL NOT see a Michigan winter, I can promise you that!!
Now.....Let the fun begin!!
In queue I have new Warn Premium Hubs, a set of Chrome Nerf Bars, a working clock, 4.10 gears and rebuild kit for the 8.8 LS.
I have 2 E4OD transmissions in my garage, one being from a 96. The 96 trans I was told only had 40k miles on it back in 2004 but it's been sitting for 16 years with me. I'm on the fence if I want to rebuild the 96 E4OD or just pick up a factory unit from Monster. I'm certain the seals are probably shot. I think for an extra $1000 from the rebuild kit price, it may be worth the headache. I have rebuilt a few transmissions in my life and they have all worked, but never an E4OD...plus I'm fairly a busy guy. So time is valuable too.
I need to source a few more parts for my project.
Manual Transfer Case linkage from a 91-96
E4OD Steering Column linkage from a 90-91
O/D Button with housing and pigtail from a 90-91
4.10/4.11 gears or a D50 Pig.
My plans for the PSOM is to either one of two things. Either tuck a working PSOM behind the dash and cable drive the existing speedo or integrate the guts from the PSOM with the face of the Bullnose Speedo. Still waiting for a junk speedo to try and see what I can do.
Going to document as I go. Going to be plenty of work including electrical integrating the 86 wiring with the 96 wiring. My goal is to be able to drive it this year, while sending it in for paint during winter of 2022/2023.
I can't wait to cruise this thing!!
Going to start pulling the H9 axle apart probably this weekend to start the rebuild of it.
In case you want to see how it was when I got it, I did a couple of "unboxing vids"
Stay tuned!!
61 - 80 of 89 Posts
I'm pretty confident that it's not the timing.
Judging by the plugs, it's not running rich, all plugs look the same. Cylinder 4 was wet. Assuming that was last cylinder to not fire before I pulled the plugs.
The injectors I used I got from someone on here as a trade about 18 months ago. They were used but were EV6 style. Don't know the history of them.
I'm really thinking that it's a fuel delivery (lean) issue as of now. Could it be a computer connection? Maybe as the latest development came about after I unplugged the computer for a photo shoot of the code, AND hooking up the front oxygen sensors. However, as I stated it's been a gradual decline from first fire up. Maybe I'll pull the computer too and have a look inside. It did come from a parts Bronco.
Crossing my fingers.....
I've put the lifters in.
Here's cylinder 5 compression before the lifters
![Automotive tire Watch Plant Motor vehicle Gesture]()
And after the lifters installed
![Watch Motor vehicle Gauge Vehicle Automotive tire]()
Here's to hoping that this resolves my no start!
I have to finish buttoning it back up.
I've put the lifters in.
Here's cylinder 5 compression before the lifters
And after the lifters installed
Here's to hoping that this resolves my no start!
I have to finish buttoning it back up.
Someone kick the shit out of me please.....
Against my own advice that I give here, I tried to do the oil pump in the truck. What a fawking waste of time.
Started yesterday at 11am. Everything came apart nicely. I pulled 2 main bearings and they still looked new. I pulled one rod bearing and it still looked new.
![Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Locking hubs]()
Trying to install the pump with an oil pan hanging underneath, didn't I learn 30 years ago it's not fun?
Anyways I pulled the engine today.
![Tire Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood Wheel]()
I also just because cut the old oil filter apart to check for metal. Looks clean.
![Hand Camera lens Grass Finger Font]()
![Automotive tire Bicycle part Automotive wheel system Household hardware Rim]()
I was worried because I thought I seen remnants of metal in the pan. I think I'll be ok.
Got the oil pump back in and added oil.
Definitely feels better than before.
Now to get this SOB back in!
Against my own advice that I give here, I tried to do the oil pump in the truck. What a fawking waste of time.
Started yesterday at 11am. Everything came apart nicely. I pulled 2 main bearings and they still looked new. I pulled one rod bearing and it still looked new.
Trying to install the pump with an oil pan hanging underneath, didn't I learn 30 years ago it's not fun?
Anyways I pulled the engine today.
I also just because cut the old oil filter apart to check for metal. Looks clean.
I was worried because I thought I seen remnants of metal in the pan. I think I'll be ok.
Got the oil pump back in and added oil.
Definitely feels better than before.
Now to get this SOB back in!
Spring time!!!!
Picking up where I left off.
Engine went back in. There's a couple of issues I have to chase down.
Either there's a fuel delivery problem, or there is something majorly wrong with the oiling system.
Headers are turning cherry within a couple of minutes.
![Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design]()
![Motor vehicle Light Automotive design Automotive lighting Gas]()
I have 24lb injectors and some metal fuel lines I will be installing next. If that doesn't fix this issue then I believe there's an oil system problem and I'll tell you why I believe that.
Sooo....during the lifter bleed down issue, compression was checked. Going to focus on cylinder 5.
During bleed down I was getting 95 psi on compression.
Changed the lifters after soaking them for 4 days and got 165psi on compression before buttoning up the intake.
Ran the engine for 2 minutes and was back to 95 psi after.
Found that there was an issue with the oil pump. Changed it. Compression on cylinder 5 now is at 120.
If I'm not getting the 165 like I did with the new lifters upon initial install, then they're not getting enough oil to pump up to open the valves when they need to be.
I'm thinking out loud here that this engine / crank was damaged when the truck hit a tree. The passenger frame rail was shoved so far back it broke a motor mount and probably bound up the crank putting a hair line crack in it that I didn't see when I rebuilt it. Upon running it for the about 500 miles I put on it, it probably exacerbated the crank and made this crack bigger. This would explain why the power started gradually declining to the point of where I'm at.
With the weather warming up, I'm getting ready to figure this out. I want to drive it!!!
If my thinking is correct and there is an internal oiling issue, all bets will be that a 408 or higher stroker will be going in.
I'll know after changing out the injectors and fuel lines.
Stay tuned.
Picking up where I left off.
Engine went back in. There's a couple of issues I have to chase down.
Either there's a fuel delivery problem, or there is something majorly wrong with the oiling system.
Headers are turning cherry within a couple of minutes.
I have 24lb injectors and some metal fuel lines I will be installing next. If that doesn't fix this issue then I believe there's an oil system problem and I'll tell you why I believe that.
Sooo....during the lifter bleed down issue, compression was checked. Going to focus on cylinder 5.
During bleed down I was getting 95 psi on compression.
Changed the lifters after soaking them for 4 days and got 165psi on compression before buttoning up the intake.
Ran the engine for 2 minutes and was back to 95 psi after.
Found that there was an issue with the oil pump. Changed it. Compression on cylinder 5 now is at 120.
If I'm not getting the 165 like I did with the new lifters upon initial install, then they're not getting enough oil to pump up to open the valves when they need to be.
I'm thinking out loud here that this engine / crank was damaged when the truck hit a tree. The passenger frame rail was shoved so far back it broke a motor mount and probably bound up the crank putting a hair line crack in it that I didn't see when I rebuilt it. Upon running it for the about 500 miles I put on it, it probably exacerbated the crank and made this crack bigger. This would explain why the power started gradually declining to the point of where I'm at.
With the weather warming up, I'm getting ready to figure this out. I want to drive it!!!
If my thinking is correct and there is an internal oiling issue, all bets will be that a 408 or higher stroker will be going in.
I'll know after changing out the injectors and fuel lines.
Stay tuned.
61 - 80 of 89 Posts
