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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am finally getting around to documenting all of my Bronco progress, & things I've done since I bought this 86 Bronco on Feb 22 2020.

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I bought it to be a drivable/running project to enjoy as i finish a frame off restoration on my 64 Corvette I've had since i was 26 years old. I've had 3 Bronco's in the past 79-85-96 & have wanted another Bronco for a long time. I have steadily watched Bronco prices go up, so I figured I better get in sooner, rather than later...
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This 86 was a Tennessee truck, brought up to Michigan a few years ago. It was 2 hours away from me & not driven in the winters here, so it wasn't totally rotted out like everything here in Michigan that I've looked at.

I was looking for an 78-86 & I had to have air & power windows/locks & no lift cuz I need it to fit under my 4 post lift so stock height was a must & I was looking for 5-6 years for the right Bronco they were just impossible to find in decent shape that fit my criteria, so when this Blue 86 EB popped up, I knew, even with the rust, I had to have it.

So to the 86.... ugh!! When I went to see it, it was in rough shape, the guy had put it for sale, but hadn't touched it for a while, & when i got there, it was in the garage, filthy, loaded with clothes, tools, ect.. I thought when you were selling a car, you make it presentable, vacuum it out?? Maybe make sure it at least starts & runs?? Nope, none of the above!!

I get there & what a disappointment, the battery was totally dead. I asked if he had a charger, which he did & It wouldn't take a charge... i asked for speaker wire, & I ran a ground to the frame and it immediately started charging. The guy was not very mechanical & seemed amazed I figured that out (bad ground). I turned the key forward, heard a fuel pump kick on, hmmm maybe some hope? I checked the oil, radiator fluid, all checked out.

While it charged I ran to the local auto parts store & bought a ground cable, antifreeze (just in case) & a 5 gallon gas can. I installed the new ground in the guys driveway, put some fresh gas in it & I turned the motor over by hand, which it was free, and it fired right up. It ran ok, but it was open header LOUD exhaust! It ran, but not good at all,, & i wasnt sure it was good enough to take around the block on a test drive at idle speed. I did it anyway & It shifted, brakes worked (kind of) the drivetrain didn't clunk... It was sketchy, but lots of new parts, so I took a chance hoping I could do a much better job than this guy at making it a good running vehicle, so I bought it & had it shipped home.

The bad: the rear crossmember is completely gone, the tailgate is rusty but fully functional, rusty door bottoms, rusty fenders & rear wheel wells, & lots of bad paint, but its got character!! It looks like a fairly minor fender bender tweeked the front bumper, but not too horribly, just enough to twist the bumper & push the fender into the door, which was promptly trimmed away with a cutting wheel or something?

The good: New crate 302 & new Monster AOD, new gear in the rear end. The back window works fine. The frame was nice, floor are decent, sills are in tact, it doesn't look bad at all between the rear quarter & body tub isnt bad when i look up in there amazingly?? All of the TTB has been gone thru & had shiny new bushings everywhere... the raduis arms were all rebuilt, as well as all new upper & lower ball joints, and steering ends. It had a new core support, and the interior was all there & in pretty decent shape overall. The A/C is all there, but the lines & fittings were left loose after the motor install. I think after the new crate engine install the guy couldn't get it running right & just decided he was done with it & he bought a beautiful, low mile, rust free 1980 Bronco out of California which was also in his garage next to this one.

When it was delivered to my house I spent the first few weeks investigating & ordered every bit of EFI wizardry to start with a clean slate. EGR, PCV, TPS, MAP sensor, O2 sensor, Air intake temp sensor, vacuum lines... I replaced it all & it ran much better, but still had a little surge in the idle, which turned out to be the rusted thru cruise control module. A quick cap on that vacuum line & it had a nearly perfect idle, just a little wandering idle when it comes off high idle & a little engine rev seems to fixe that.

Now that it ran decent in the garage, on nice days would take it on short drives around the block, & it appears that nothing was adjusted after the motor trans install?? I adjusted the shift cable, & replaced the severly stretched throttle cable, speedo wasnt hooked up, I had to set the timing, fixed the non working (broken wire) temp guage, ect...

Were into April now & got some miles of short test drives had built up a little confidence that i can ventire out further & even at night a bit & man do the stock dash lights suck, I couldn't even read the guages at night, so i ordered all the LED's for the cluster, took off the blue caps, got LED's for the blinkers, dome lamp, cargo lamp, glove box lamp, & license plate bulbs, & footwear lamps? Also ordered a clear dome lamp lens, to replace the opaque & yellowed factory one. Everything is much brighter & better now.

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April 6 2020 I noticed the heat barely blew any air out of the ducts. After some reading posts about this on the forum about the 80-86 large cowl openings allowing leaves & sticks in there. I pulled the blower motor out & mine was packed full of debris. I filled half of a 5 gallon bucket with all the junk that was packed in there!! I replaced the heater core for $12 while I was at it. Much better heat, I would say this tripled the performance of the HVAC system. Look at the pile of stuff in there!!

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May 01 2020 i tackled the steering, it was horrible, on my alignment shops advice, they said to put in front springs before I bring it in, so I put new stock height front springs on it, & Just as a test, I measured the before & after height. This lifted the height of the wheel well lip height by 1.5" which took care of most of the caster problem. That is some serious spring sag I'd say! Then just because, I changed the front camber bushings to the Moog adjustable caster/camber bushings then did a string alignment as a temp, then took it in & got a real alignment done ($55) & it is much better now.

So It's getting mechanically better, I started on the creature comfort things that were bugging me. Powerwashing the underbody & cleaning up the engine bay. My rear view mirror glass was stained, so I got a new one from JBG, then found the correct Eddie Bauer badges on ebay for the fenders, as mine had the chrome but no Eddie Bauer badge in there.
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I added kick panel vents i found at the junkyard (a temp fix to my non working A/C) & holy cow they move some air.

During all of this searching the forum, I came across the cupholder mod, awesome fix for those useless cupholders, no more dumping the Yeti on my lap!

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July 2020 The A/C repair, it looked like it was all there, but all original. I tightened up all the loose connections/hoses, added some leak detection dye, an ounce of new style oil, then pumped a can of R134 in it, & was almost shocked when the compressor actually kicked on. I let it run for a bit, then saw some green dye leaking on a few of the O-Rings & the accumulator had a crack, but no major things,, so I ordered the accumulator ($34) & disassembled everything, cleaned out all of the lines with a/c flush, flushed the evaporator, & replaced all the o-rings with new ones. I put a new orfice tube in, pulled a vacuum & it held 30lbs, so I added 34oz of R134 & R134 oil & its been working great all summer. 38-40° out the vent.


Sep 01 20 I am so over the flowmasters & turndown dumps right after the headers, its so loud!! I am having an exhaust system built & installed from the headers back, which is a 2 1/2" Y pipe that goes to 3" where the two pipes come together. That goes into a 3" Hi-Flow catalytic, then a 3" Magnaflow. Then 3" tubing all the way out, up over the axle, & an exit behind the pass tire, as the stock would do, just in 3"
 

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86 BKO orig-5.0efi swap to 91 5.8efi w/AOD longtube w/2.5in to 3in hiflo cat 3in hp shorty flomaster
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Just seen your o2 location and a question? Where should you mount the o2² i have mine right by the y on my custom exhaust and wondering if thats why it sometimes misses a little when cruising
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I am no expert by any means, but the factory 86 O2 sensor is on the passenger side manifold. In reading up.on this o2 sensor placement with headers, they recomment 8" from the collector, so i placed it on the y pipe, just after the header. I used a "clamp in" type O2 sensor, which seemed to work fine, but a permanent "weld in" style is going on the new exhaust. Much like you are asking. Seems the miss is usually something vacuum related on these things. Like my cruise control vacuum leak made mine surge a bit when it came off high idle.

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Nice start and I've done the drink holder thing also, way better. But I'm haten all that rust repair you got coming your way and yet it is some what fun watching OTHERS do it..... hehe.. FYI 80-86 Broncos are the SEXIEST! Enough said
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Ok, I picked up the Bronco from the exhaust shop, it is way quieter!! Yaaaa!!! I do see they did not follow my V Band connector request, nor my magnaflow muffler request, but whatever, I am happy its not so obnoxious & it's still got a rumble to it.

I went with sections just so i could try with and without a cat, so will have them make me another section I can swap out, that has a Magnaflow muffler (like I requested) & no cat. How annoying, but they did do a good job overall, they just can't follow instructions i guess. I will provide the muffler this time, so i don't get the off the shelf walker muffler they used. That sh*t doesn't get by with car guys... grrr!!

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nice start and I've done the drink holder thing also, way better. But I'm haten all that rust repair you got coming your way and yet it is some what fun watching OTHERS do it..... hehe.. FYI 80-86 Broncos are the SEXIEST! Enough said
I am pretty excited about doing the rust repair, the hood, fenders, & doors will easy bolt on deal, the rear crossmember are rear quarters will be more challenging, but its all good, ill do whatever I have to do & get this thing turned into a nice bronco!
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I couldnt keep the door mirrors adjusted, i tried all kinds of different things, & they just flopped in the breeze on all but the slowest sidestreet cruises, so i took them off & added a set of junkyard power mirrors off of a 96, not that i wired the power in, but at least i can see. Yes i cut a hole in the sheet metal for the square post on the 96 mirrors, as these doors are going in the garbage eventually anyway. I also found a decent, (non bent) front bumper at the junkyard for $50 too, so that i put on.

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Took a ride over to NPD yesterday & picked up new fenders & a hood. I was just happy they fit in the back of my Ram with the cap on it! The guy said, you pulled up in a Ram, wearing a chevy shirt, to buy Bronco parts. I said, I'm just trying to cover all the bases!!

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
My impressions after a few days of driving with the new exhaust is that I can definitely feel it has lost some power, but I'm happy with the sound being not so obnoxious. It does feel better with more backpressure in the exhaust, because when I am going 45 & its in overdrive, it had nothing before, & now with the new exhaust, it has some torque available, to where it will actually speed up without having to give it enough gas for it to kick down. I guess its a trade off...

I purposely made this system in sections so it was changeable. I know me, I like to test things to get them just how I want them & that includes the exhaust note.
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
The bronco started running horribly all of the sudden. Super rich & black smoke out the exhaust, won't rev at all, stalls with any throttle input?? My thoughts were a clogged cat already, so I unbolted my muffler/cat section & had the exhaust shop remove the cat & weld it back together. I got home & put it back together, fired it up.... no change, so it was not a clogged cat!!! Dammit!!

My next thought was a fuel pressure regulator, but after replacing that, no change, so I did what I should have done first & I bought the $29.99 Auto Zone code reader... maybe I won't keep throwing parts at it. I also bought a fuel pressure guage & i checked my fuel pressure at the rail, which was good at 32psi when running. I will do a koeo & koer tomorrow.
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When I bought the truck, the air pump was gone, vacuum lines capped, but they never did anything like adding the diodes to trick the computer, so that is on my things to do list.

Seems all the links to the old fuel injection sites are no longer working & the eliminator kits are no longer available for purchase, so i am doing it the old fashioned way.
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I ran a KOEO test & got codes:
54 Air Intake temp sensor
83 EGR

I have a new AIT sensor in there as of april. So I am hoping it's just a bad connection on this do I have the connector ordered.

Continuous Memory gave me:
18 Sprout (concerning) I did put a new coil in yesterday.
21 coolant temp sensor (it's new)
51 ECT
54 Air intake Temp

I also ran a KOER
24 Air Intake Temp out of range
41 02 sensor (I have a new one in there?)
34 EGR
25 Knock Sensor (badly cracked connector)


I wasn't sure if I should clear the continuous memory or not so I did not?
I will post this in a separate post for replies.
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Ok I got the problem solved.
Even tho I had put a new Air Intake Temp sensor in a few months back, that was one of my codes, i tried a new connector & no change, so I measured the resistance on the AIT sensor (like I should have first) & got the dreaded 1 on the sensor, meaning it is an open circuit, or shorted out!!

Luckily when I got my new AIT sensor in April, I had measured the resistace on both the new and old sensor when I got the new part & they both metered the same at 0.34 ohms & I wrote that on the box & put the ole one in the box & saved it. So I cleaned the old one & put it back in & it immediately fixed the issue.

I ordered a new one, a Delphi (1yr warranty) this time, as this Walker AIT sensor only had a 90 day warranty. I couldn't find a Motorcraft AIT sensor.

I also cleaned up some underhood wiring while I had the air filter box out, & removed my crossover tube from the heads & replaced it with block off covers i bought from a mustang site.
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I also metered voltage of my 02 sensor wire to make sure it was varying with throttle input, which it was at the back of the engine where I poked the wire. I still want to confirm these numbers at the EEC pins to make sure my wiring harness is ok cuz I am getting that o2 sensor code?

Then installed my idle air control spacer, which seems to have done a pretty good job of calming that slight idle wandering I was occasionally getting. I am obsessed with making it run like new.

I took a drive after, roughly 3 hours cruising locally & it ran great, sounded good with no cat, it got a little louder without the cat I think, but it's a nice deep sound, not like my blow-master dumps, that made you want to ice pick your eardrums!
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I made a few posts outside of the build thread asking questions on my codes and my only remaining KOEO code was code 34, which is EGR related & the 02 sensor code.

The EGR one first, which lead me to realize that while I had replaced the EGR valve & the position sensor on top of it, I didnt know about the solenoids that control vacuum to the EGR, which are the EGRV & EGRC solenoids & they are just completly shot, decintegrated & falling apart, broken with the vavuum lines capped off, so no wonder the EGR code is there.
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I had a hell of a time finding the part as I was looking online for EGRV & EGRC, and @miesk5 sent me to an ebay store link here:
They had the part, which is called an "EGR timed delay vacuum switch". I ordered the part, and I will update the post when the part arrives to see if that fixed my EGR code. Part #E4SE-9D474-A2A

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As for the TAD/TAB, I have the resistors to eliminate them.
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Update of the last few weeks:
Code 34 : EGR
It was the timed delay EGRV/EGRC solenoids shown above, they plugged right in, and worked fine, vacuum lines slightly different than what it was, but its routes the same now with new 4mm silicone lines.

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My Code 41
O2 sensor is now also fixed. It was because of a break in the wire going to the EEC, my ground was good. I replaced the wire & it fixed the code. Voltage at the pin was 0.22-0.25v cold, then after a 20 minute drive, it was 0.68-0.72v

My code 25
Knock sensor is also fixed. I looked at the same ebay seller miesk5 referred me to that I bought my EGRV/EGRC solenoids from, & they showed a knock sensor for 1986 5.0EFI available, so for $15.99 i took a chance. It came today & I installed it, ran codes, and no more code 25.

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Now I have code 81 & 82 the Tad/Tab which I have the diodes for, just have not installed yet. I have no air pump, & i removed the crossover tube, & installed plugs in the back of my heads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Took a nice long ride today, top off, heat on high on this sunny 45° fall day from my house on the north shore of Lake St Clair, up the St Clair River 30-40 miles. Passing thru small towns up, up to Port Huron. Then I came back down the freeway at 75mph, got off 15 miles north of my house & took the back roads thru farm lands & wooded areas.

The Bronco is running excellent now, great idle, pretty mean & deep exhaust note if you get on it, but zero noise if you are cruising in overdrive. Pretty happy with it mechanically. Now as winter approaches, I get thoughts of taking it all apart, weld on some new quarter panels, rear crossmember, the doors, fenders, hood... all the parts are in my garage waiting for me, but i think I can squeeze more nice days out before I rip it all apart.

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Here is my photoshopped image that looks nearly rust free. Its the same pic in the first post in this thread, I just photoshopped the rusted, scratched, & oxidized area off.

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I went to the local junkyard today, they have a whole new lot of southern F150's in really nice shape. Picked up a gold 96 passenger door that just fit in the back seat & a blue/white drivers door for around $60 each, both power mirrors & absolutely rust free. I was told by my friend who owns a body shop & does a lot of restorations, to buy good used doors, over aftermarket doors, cuz the aftermarket doors aren't too good fit/finish, & are made of thin metal. When grabbing that blue/white drivers door, I had taken the parking brake off to try to get as much wiring harness with the door as I could, & the parking brake was in excellent shape. It rotated very nicely, spring back really nice, where as mine mine is just crap, so I got that too. Plus I scored a bed mat for my 2020 Ram for $25, and a vietnam vet plate for my garage wall license plate collection.
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I also got a chance to get a few paint codes off of other blue Ford trucks that were there as i plan on keeping the Eddie Bauer paint lines & 2 tone just like factory, just not the same shades.

I am planning on making this truck really nice, and the factory paint colors even when really nice, i don't care for too much. The shade of the blue is: 7B Shadow Blue Metallic & it is way too dull, even when really nice its just boring. Then my factory tan color is: 8Q Light Desert Tan, its way too yellow!! The TAN may go to the 96 EB tan CODE DZ, or match the shade of my interior interior. Spray outs will help me decide later.

As for the blue, I like the bright blue/tan 1996 bronco colors, and there was an F150 there with that color... here is that paint code KM. Royal Blue Poly. Just not sure if it will look right on an 86.

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All in time i guess, & thinking out loud here. May look into GM Mulsane Blue, which is a lighter shade of blue.
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Gotta pick something soon, fenders, hood & doors can get painted soon.

Just keeping notes on my build thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I think the 96 Eddie Bauer sun visors for $10 was a good junkyard upgrade to my floppy 1986 sun visors.

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The pivot utilized the same 3 screws & for the other side, I made a template and added a hole for the locator & a smaller hole for the screw. I am dreading recovering that headliner, not that its hard to do, but its just messy brushing off all the old britle foam to get to good material to glue the new fabric to.

A little bit of progress every day!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
My next trick is step adding some ambient lighting to the interior. I saw the light that illuminates the ashtray, and is a nice dim light hooked in with the headlamps/cluster and I don't smoke, so who cares if the ashtray is lit up?? So I disassembled the ashtray (3 screws), unclippeded the light, and made myself a little bracket out of flashing, poked a hole in it to line it up.with the ashtray bracket screw, then clipped the light into to, and wedged it up between the plastic dash panel and the ashtray bracket, now I have a little bit of ambient footwell lighting instead of black nothingness at night.

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1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
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I went to the local junkyard today, they have a whole new lot of southern F150's in really nice shape. Picked up a gold 96 passenger door that just fit in the back seat & a blue/white drivers door for around $60 each, both power mirrors & absolutely rust free. I was told by my friend who owns a body shop & does a lot of restorations, to buy good used doors, over aftermarket doors, cuz the aftermarket doors aren't too good fit/finish, & are made of thin metal. When grabbing that blue/white drivers door, I had taken the parking brake off to try to get as much wiring harness with the door as I could, & the parking brake was in excellent shape. It rotated very nicely, spring back really nice, where as mine mine is just crap, so I got that too. Plus I scored a bed mat for my 2020 Ram for $25, and a vietnam vet plate for my garage wall license plate collection. View attachment 169563

I also got a chance to get a few paint codes off of other blue Ford trucks that were there as i plan on keeping the Eddie Bauer paint lines & 2 tone just like factory, just not the same shades.

I am planning on making this truck really nice, and the factory paint colors even when really nice, i don't care for too much. The shade of the blue is: 7B Shadow Blue Metallic & it is way too dull, even when really nice its just boring. Then my factory tan color is: 8Q Light Desert Tan, its way too yellow!! The TAN may go to the 96 EB tan CODE DZ, or match the shade of my interior interior. Spray outs will help me decide later.

As for the blue, I like the bright blue/tan 1996 bronco colors, and there was an F150 there with that color... here is that paint code KM. Royal Blue Poly. Just not sure if it will look right on an 86.

View attachment 169564
View attachment 169567
View attachment 169573



All in time i guess, & thinking out loud here. May look into GM Mulsane Blue, which is a lighter shade of blue. View attachment 169574 Gotta pick something soon, fenders, hood & doors can get painted soon.

Just keeping notes on my build thread.
IM pondering this same issue, the purist in me wants to just keep it simple and do the Dark Shadow blue, because i do like it, but it may not be my favorite, but i REEEEALLY like the cobalt blue of the newer GMC and Chevy trucks, aboslutely beautiful shade of blue.
 
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