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Discussion Starter #1
1987 EFI Starting Problems.. Partially Fixed!! code 34?

ok so it starts fine the first time..(after it sits for a while) then try to crank it up again and 80% of the time it just cranks.. i then have to hold the gas peddle to the floor, crank and it sputters up to an idle.. then runs fine until you try to start again.. ive taken it to a mechanic twice..

1st time he replaced the Ignition Module and Pickup $295.41 :banghead
2nd time he replace the In tank Fuel Pump and strainer $326.42 :banghead

so ive been religously searching and reading these forums for similar problems.. i think it may be the Fuel Pressure Regulator..

could this be? and should i test the line if it runs perfectly fine?

any help would be greatful :thumbup

its a 5.0 btw
 

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Lick my balls
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Your mechanic sucks. Did you or your mechanic check for any codes? Did you or he check the TPS?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
waltman said:
Your mechanic sucks. Did you or your mechanic check for any codes? Did you or he check the TPS?
haha yeah he does suck...

and i dont have the code tool so hes going to do that tomorrow.. as for the TPS do i need a special tool to check this? i know its mounted on the side of the throttle body.. but what should i look for?

im fairly new to EFI 5.0's
 

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RCF83 said:
but wait if it was the TPS wouldnt the truck run really crappy?
Well, isn't it?
Read your hanes, it tells you how to check it yourself using a volt metre without paying this bozo mechanic of yours. Your hanes will tell you how to pull the codes as well...you do have a hanes, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
waltman said:
Well, isn't it?
Read your hanes, it tells you how to check it yourself using a volt metre without paying this bozo mechanic of yours. Your hanes will tell you how to pull the codes as well...you do have a hanes, right?
yes sir i have a chiltons manual.. ill check..

but back to that running... it runs great once it starts.. its just getting it started that is a problem.. :confused:
 

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I'll be honest with you, I've never experienced a faulty TPS, I just know it takes just a minute or two to check it. Your manual should tell you how to check all your sensors. Check your IA(C?) MAP sensor WHY. Get codes first and when you figure it out go back to your mechanic tell him you fixed it and smack him for being stupid.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
hahah i should...

so ill check the sensors tomorrow.. seems pretty easy (according to the manual)
but would you think it could be the FPR?

my troubleshooting list
-FPR
-IAC
-TPS
-CTS
-MAF
-TFI
-MAP
 

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:shrug I don't think so, Just go down the list and chack them all. When is the last time you changed your fuel filtre? If you don't know, change it, if it is a year or more, change it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
waltman said:
:shrug I don't think so, Just go down the list and chack them all. When is the last time you changed your fuel filtre? If you don't know, change it, if it is a year or more, change it.

heheh thats another thing :scratchhe my "mechanic" told me there wasnt an in line filter... so the in tank fuel pump strainer would be ok.... :wtf
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Steve83 said:
Yes, the FPR diaphragm can split, causing a rich condition, or even flooding. Pull the red vacuum line & check for gasoline.

.

will do... thanks.. so your saying it should be bone dry right?

and ill also check for that fuel filter on the frame.. thanks guys :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i got codes.... 21 and 34

21- ECT
34- EGR valve posotion???

so im going to change the ECT.. where exactly is this on a 5.0 EFI? any help?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ok so i replaced the ECT and starting the motor seems to be perfect so far.. re checked for codes 21 has gone away and i stil have 34

34- EGR Valve Position.. could this be the sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Steve83 said:
There shouldn't even be the ODOR of gas in it.

I just realized your '87's filter isn't where that diagram shows. :brownbag It's either under your feet, like this pic shows, or inside the black reservoir just forward of the rear axle. DON'T unscrew the cup from the reservoir until you have a NEW O-ring in-hand. You can't reuse the old one, and you can't drive with the cup off. The only place I've found them is with the WIX filter, but I think NAPA had to look up the filter for an '87 Ranger to find it.


yeah i pulled the red hose and it was dry.. so it looks like the FPR is good..

do you know anything about code 34? :shrug
 

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RCF83 said:
ok so i replaced the ECT and starting the motor seems to be perfect so far.. re checked for codes 21 has gone away and i stil have 34

34- EGR Valve Position.. could this be the sensor?
What is the ECT ?

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Steve83 said:
Engine Coolant Temperature sensor

34 is usually caused by a vacuum leak, either in one of the hard plastic lines, or from the "coffee can" cracking at one of the seams. Check with the engine idling. If you can't find it, disconnect both lines from the EVR & join them. The engine should cough & die almost instantly. If not, the green line or the EGR diaphragm is leaking.



Even if your valves aren't mounted like that, the vacuum lines are always those colors, so you can ID them that way.
:shocked wow man you really know your Broncos... i will definately test this out tomorrow.. i really appreciate this man :thumbup .. ill post back after i test... thanks again
 
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