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Discussion Starter #1
Hey y'all! New guy here sent your way from a few very awesome reviews and considerations from the Ford Bronco Sub reddit.

I would truly appreciate everyone's help. I'm looking to be a first time ever Bronco owner and am looking at this guy seen bellow. Do you think the price is worth what the description says? Remember his asking price (without me bartering dropped to $2500 NOT $3000) I'm very serious about this possible purchase so let me know what you guys think and how much i can probably talk him down from.

Thanks!

159565


1988 ford bronco 2
Pros-
-driveline is out of a 98 ranger(4.0 5speed)
-engine and transmission were rebuilt less than 3k miles ago
-lifted on 35 inch tires
Cons-
-has front end damage but a bumper and grille would fix it
-has small exhaust leak (needs a set of headers)
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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36,052 Posts
Sorry man... it's in the name, we are a FULLSIZE FORD BRONCO group.
The vast majority of our tech centers around the 78-96 Ford Bronco and the Ford F150's they share so much with.
I think the place you're looking for is a sub-forum of therangerstation.com
The Bronco II shares the platform and many parts with the Ford Ranger.

You might be able to get some decent advice around here but it will be hit or miss with most of us.
Personally... that sounds like a serious chunk of change for a rig that appears to have been in a front end collision and could potentially have considerable frame damage. If the leaking headers are in any way related to that collision, I wouldn't touch it with a 10 ft. pole... but I'm not a big fan of the baby Bronco anyway. I think you could do better if that's what you've got your heart set on.
 

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24,989 Posts
Yo gullyburner,
Welcome to our Full Size Bronco site!
I agree with BikerPepe` on asking at Ford Bronco II

Member dash_cam offers very good advice on having an independent inspection done at sellers location! If you cant inspect it yourself, post Location in the noobie section and ask members for their help or seek out an ASE certified shop in area to inspect it for you. ASE is National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence, read about it @ About ASE - ASE.
Find an ASE shop @ Shop Locator - ASE
Google each for reviews especially in Yelp, Facebook, BBB.

Automatic transmission:
Pull the transmission dipstick out when the engine is running at normal operating temp. The level should read FULL.
Look for leaks around pan from (front) Pump seal. Observe color and odor of the fluid. It should be red, not brown or black. Dark brown or black fluid that has distinct burnt odor, indicates a transmission in need of repair or overhaul.
Odor may indicate overheating condition, clutch disc or band failure. Use an absorbent white facial tissue and wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solid particles and for engine coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator).
If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, the transmission pan must be removed for further inspection.

Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it.

Sometimes a seller may "promise" to return a certain amount of money during negotiations..
Transactions are between users only, no third party provides a "guarantee".
Never give out financial info (bank account, social security #, paypal account, etc).

A summary of questions to ask the seller;
Do you have the maintenance records?
Do you have the title in hand and is there a lien on the Bronco?
How do I get the title?
Can I receive close-up pictures of a specific area (miesk5 note, such as frame, engine, etc?

GL!
Al
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry man... it's in the name, we are a FULLSIZE FORD BRONCO group.
The vast majority of our tech centers around the 78-96 Ford Bronco and the Ford F150's they share so much with.
I think the place you're looking for is a sub-forum of therangerstation.com
The Bronco II shares the platform and many parts with the Ford Ranger.

You might be able to get some decent advice around here but it will be hit or miss with most of us.
Personally... that sounds like a serious chunk of change for a rig that appears to have been in a front end collision and could potentially have considerable frame damage. If the leaking headers are in any way related to that collision, I wouldn't touch it with a 10 ft. pole... but I'm not a big fan of the baby Bronco anyway. I think you could do better if that's what you've got your heart set on.

Thank you for your reply man. We'll I apologize but since my post is still here I might as well make use of it. But I will find another forum related to the model Bronco I'm seeking

But he said the leak is "from welding in hot and burning a hole into the exhaust"

Is this troublesome? Lol Sorry y'all forgive me I'm obviously a Moro vehicle new guy so it might sound like a dumb question but if anyone knows if the leaking being due to DIY welding a burn hole into the exhaust is something to worry about or not drop a reply!
 

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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs.
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327 Posts
Run away, that thing has been ridden hard and put away wet. I've bought enough similar junk to know that from the details and pictures. I'd strongly reccomend a 2 door explorer over a bronco two, and they're about 1/3 the price for the same condition and mileage. That's coming from someone that has always wanted a bronco 2, they're just not worth the cost unless you love them...

If you needwant a bronco 2,(like how a lot of us needwanted out fullsize broncos...) I'd reccomend waiting for a stock one, and get it with the EFI engine, they are better than the previous carbureted engines. The cost to repair that one far exceeds the price gap between it and a mint version.
 

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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs.
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327 Posts
Thank you for your reply man. We'll I apologize but since my post is still here I might as well make use of it. But I will find another forum related to the model Bronco I'm seeking

But he said the leak is "from welding in hot and burning a hole into the exhaust"

Is this troublesome? Lol Sorry y'all forgive me I'm obviously a Moro vehicle new guy so it might sound like a dumb question but if anyone knows if the leaking being due to DIY welding a burn hole into the exhaust is something to worry about or not drop a reply!
Just to address the welding issue, if the owner allowed a butcher to burn holes in the exhaust, they probably didn't care about the quality of work, and only wanted cheap shitty work. How much other damage was done to that rig by them cutting corners and allowing idiots to attack it? Seriously, welding is very simple and shouldn't have caused issues, this sounds to me like they had unskilled labor going on, or they had rust holes which they burned out further? Neither option is good.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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36,052 Posts
I think @twofortyz is giving some solid advice. There are exceptions but generally speaking... you'll be money ahead and not be so frustrated you won't enjoy the rig if you buy one as close to stock as you can and modify it yourself, rather than picking up one somebody already modified (questionable work, I think so on this one), beat the daylights out of and decided it was time to move on. It may look like what you want your end project to be similar too but unless you really know what you're doing (if you did, you likely wouldn't be here asking) it's too easy to get stuck with other peoples problems.

I still suspect considerable frame damage with both front fenders being replaced... so you know he didn't just smack the bumper out of shape and drive away. 1 fender, maybe ok... 2 fenders says it hit hard enough to damage both sides of the ride, likely with the same impact that gave it that bloody nose in the first place.

Your call though. Only you really know what you want, what your capable of restoring and how deep your pockets are.
 

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That one is a little rough. You can get a decent Full size Broncos in better shape for about the same price.... depending on where you are located. If everything older than 6 years is a rust bucket in your area..... than yes you are screwed. The Bronco II is a little underpowered. This resulted in the owners giving it a little too much hell... yes the 4.0L explorer engine is solid, but a tight fit.... probably causing all kinds of routine maintenance issues. This 1991 is interesting. The interior is shot but the motor and trans is solid. Not any visible rust... and it is right in the same wheel house for price. I have two Full size Broncos. I purchased the first one in 2005 for 3,500$ and the second one in 2011 for 3,200$. You can still find them in the south and desert west for this price.

You are looking at purchasing a long term project.... something you are going to pour your blood, sweat, tears and a small fortune into. Try and start with a solid, un molested, rust free base and mod the hell out of it.





159631
 
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