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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I am doing an engine swap from the 1989 5.0 to a 1993 5.0. I am wanting to get rid of as much of the emissions stuff as I can... so can anyone tell me what has to stay to keep the engine running with the stock EFI and ECU without throwing a CIL?
 

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Yo Slim,
Removal; "...What you need to do is electrically plug in the TAB and TAD solenoids but remove the vacuum lines, then all the air injection plumbing and valves can be removed and the heads plugged. The EGR is a seperate system from the Thermactor and the computer treats it very differently, it also helps increase milage and power so it's a good idea to keep it anyway.

The TAB and TAD you could fake out pretty easy, but even the old EGR system can't be faked because the computer both commands valve movement and watches for feedback to confirm it happened, so a dummy resistor won't cut it.

Source: by Conanski

"This eliminator kit makes it possible to remove the Thermactor System Solenoids (TAB,TAD) from your main engine wire harness while keeping the EFI system functioning normally and the check engine light from coming on.


$39.99 by fiveologyracing.com

Search for a better price.

Following emission parts are commonly used & available via google searches:
You are looking for Thermactor Plugs, some use 5/8" by 11 by 1" SS bolts while others have welded holes closed.
Stainless Steel Thermactor Smog Plugs the holes in the back of your cylinder heads when removing the exhaust crossover tube. Comes with 2 stainless plugs and Loctite. Hex head makes installation easy when the engine is still in the vehicle.

by Ryan M.
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Thermactor Smog Plugs, EGR Eliminator Overview, EGR Block Off Plate, EVR, CANP, TAB & TAD Actuator Eliminator Resistor & Parts List & pics; need one 75 ohm 3 watt Resistor for each item removed, EVR, CANP, TAB & TAD solenoids
by Ryan M. But company is out of business.

EGR Do it yourself MIL Eliminator
You will need to go to radio shack or elsewhere and purchase 3 resistors, two 3.9k ohm 1/2 watt resistor & one 390 ohm 1/2 watt resistor. See attached diagram
166245

https://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_153823094736314&key=6ed47b392b9edfe394b9e89b72717104&libId=jmniwamh01000bgv000MA1omel57xq17et&loc=https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone/435826-vacuum-delete.html#post6207818&v=1&out=http://web.archive.org/web/20120820002649/http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/collections/egr-eliminators&title=Vacuum delete - Ford Bronco Forum&txt=http://web.archive.org/web/201208200...gr-eliminators
"...What you need to do is electrically plug in the TAB and TAD solenoids but remove the vacuum lines, then all the air injection plumbing and valves can be removed and the heads plugged. The EGR is a seperate system from the Thermactor and the computer treats it very differently, it also helps increase milage and power so it's a good idea to keep it anyway. If you have the DPFE system there is no way to bypass it without the computer knowing and throwing a code so you may as well keep it intact. you'll get codes if you remove the solenoids, the easiest way to avoid this is to just leave them plugged in. The TAB and TAD you could fake out pretty easy, but even the old EGR system can't be faked because the computer both commands valve movement and watches for feedback to confirm it happened, so a dummy resistor won't cut it.
Source: by Conanski
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A neat mod by jrichker; "...Put the resistor inside the heat shrink tubing and crimp the connectors on. I would choose the Ford pin connectors since they should plug in the TAB & TAD wiring. That way you haven't modified the wiring so it is easy to re-install the TAB & TAD solenoids if emissions testing comes to your area. 18 gauge crimp on taps..."
read more and see many pics.
at Are the TAD/TAB vacuum solenoids NEEDED?
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EGR Eliminator Installation Manual by Ryan M. @ Wayback Machine
But, "When performing computer Self-Test after installing this kit it is normal to get code:
33 / 332 EGR valve opening not detected."

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EGR Do it yourself MIL Eliminator by TrimDip @ Ford Mustang Forums

miesk5 Note, see EVP pins by SeattleFSB @ EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor Testing & Replacement

"And, I did find this, "here's an even easier way; once the EGR valve is removed off the car, remove 3 small (7mm?) screws to disassemble the pintle assembly (EVP) from the EGR valve body. plug the EVP back into the wiring harness and push the steel pintle in about halfway and using strong tape (green or red duct tape works best), wrap the tape over the pintle so that it holds its halfway-in position. hide the pintle assembly out of sight. I've run my car like this for at least 5 months now and no check engine light. No soldering needed, no money spent except if you need to buy tape and its still safe and reliable. just remember to put an EGR delete plate over the opening in the upper intake, a cap over the heater tube opening on the passenger side header and plug off your 2 or 3 (now disconnected) vacuum lines." by cobraman1024 @ Ford Mustang Forums

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EGR Location & Block-Off Plate pic in an 89 @ https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/439467/fullsize/dsc02766.jpg
Source: by Tim C (TnTbronco2, Trail Truck, Street Truck, Crazed, Broke, OoG)
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Here is Ryan M's now closed parts site @ RJM Injection Tech ? Welcome
Ryan also sold;
Actuator Eliminator Resistor $2.00 each
75 ohm 3watt Resistors can also be used to eliminate the EVR, CANP, TAB & TAD solenoids.
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Call pciinc.com for the crossover tube, etc. They sell direct; NAPA and probably other parts stores carry their products.
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Smog Pump Belt Removal:
Removal, Belt in a 95 5.8; "... I have a 351, so i know mine is a little different. but my stock belt was 93.5 inches. when i took off the smog pump, i needed a belt 2 inches shorter. 91.5. thats the stock sized belt for a 90 bronco with a 302. so says the autparts store. if yours is like mine, and you need to lose two inches, try a belt 2 inchs smaller than stock. all my accesorys are placed like in the diagrame fireguy just posted. i also beleive there was a thread about this not to long ago, and people were listing part numbers...: by Alan T (GearHead)

Removal, Belt in an 88 5.0; "...I tried an 89.5" first, 2 inches shorter than stock and it was too long. So I went back hoping for something about 88 or so and all they had was a 87.5. It was a bit short and a royal pita to put on but it is running fine. A lil tight but it should hold till I get an 88.2 which they can order." by fright88

Removal, Belt Part Number 882K6 in an 88 5.0*by Barbaric35

Removal, Belt Part Number in an 89 5.8; NAPA Belt Part # 060825*by Cucamongan (Scotty) at SuperMotors.net
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks @miesk5 , this was the exact information I was looking for. I will be keeping the EGR Valve for simplicity sake. The head block off bolts are exactly the trick I was looking for (can’t wait to show my dad that they make a part that just bolts on... he always rolled and welded the cross over tubes).
TAD/TAB, glad I can just get rid of those sensors with this kit.

So one question I still have... the Campbell Soup Can vacuum reservoir on the right hand fender, does it control the HVAC system, or is it now no longer needed?

I have a couple of questions about the charcoal canister, but will post them after I take some pictures.
 

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Yo Slim,

You'll still need vacuum FROM MANIFOLD for the brake vacuum booster, MAP, Speed Control, HVAC, FPR, (EGR, UNLESS DELETED)...SEE THIS;
166301

BTW, I don't see a small Vacuum Tank for HVAC IN THIS DIAGRAM. It most likely be located on passender side
166300
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yo Slim,

You'll still need vacuum FROM MANIFOLD for the brake vacuum booster, MAP, Speed Control, HVAC, FPR, (EGR, UNLESS DELETED)...SEE THIS;
View attachment 166301
BTW, I don't see a small Vacuum Tank for HVAC IN THIS DIAGRAM. It most likely be located on passender side
View attachment 166300
Ohh no, so I’m going to need a new one.... mine was full of pinholes... unless I can use the Cruise Control Reservoir.
 

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Yo Slim,
I failed to mention that the brake booster, etc vacuum comes from the upper intake plenum as shown in page 120 diagram. So keep them intact as shown.
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes you are missing one of the mushroom shaped caps, not sure it's technically a breather. Those keep water out of the canister, so if you're planning to keep it find something to cover it up.
If I get rid of it, what do I do with the line from the gas tank?
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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You can take and extend the line from the gas tank and run it up under the hood to vent it. Then zip tie it some place out of the way.
 

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If I get rid of it, what do I do with the line from the gas tank?
I wouldn't get rid of it. The EVAP system on these trucks is stupid simple, and keeps the fuel vapors where they belong. It takes very little effort to keep it intact and working. There's only one electronic piece, the rest is just hoses. It will be the same between both years as well.
Thanks @miesk5 , this was the exact information I was looking for. I will be keeping the EGR Valve for simplicity sake. The head block off bolts are exactly the trick I was looking for (can’t wait to show my dad that they make a part that just bolts on... he always rolled and welded the cross over tubes).
TAD/TAB, glad I can just get rid of those sensors with this kit.

So one question I still have... the Campbell Soup Can vacuum reservoir on the right hand fender, does it control the HVAC system, or is it now no longer needed?

I have a couple of questions about the charcoal canister, but will post them after I take some pictures.
The soup can is for the AIR and EGR system, you still have the EGR system so keeping it would be wise. Though TBH, the EGR system doesn't operate under situations where there would be low vacuum (heavy throttle), so you could probably do without it. If you look at the evaporator box there's a Vacuum reservior sonically welded to the side which is dedicated to HVAC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
EVAP is staying...

I have an idea for the vac res. One was garbage, but the CC doesn’t work, so I’m using the CC Vac Res
Auto part Gas
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yo Slim,
I failed to mention that the brake booster, etc vacuum comes from the upper intake plenum as shown in page 120 diagram. So keep them intact as shown.
Thanks for the heads up... I wasn’t going to bypass that... I know I need to keep the Brake Booster, EGR Valve, EVAP, HVAC, and the Cruise Control vacuum lines... I was mostly worried about the TAB/TAD.

I’m looking into the MAF swap while I’m at it... either now, or down the road, probably down the road as I just want to hurry up and get the truck running so I can get the land lady off my butt.
 
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