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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Long story short, bought this 1990 5.8L bronco. Wouldnt start when i was looking at buying it. (helped me on the firm price he had) but it had spark. So rebuilt the upper end cuz head gaskit was leaking. Post rebuild still no start but had spark. Replaced all the relays, map senc. stator and computer. It started, ran for 10 mins(just had time to set timing) and just shut off like someone turned the key off. Checked for spark no spark. replaced coil and ICM. Started run for 10 mins and was running damn good an then shut down again. Checked for spark, No spark. Im out of ideas, please help me start to sleep at night again!
thanx
 

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pip in the dizzy???
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanx guys, thats what i was thinking, just wasnt sure if that was the answer. ill give it a shot and post outcome! thanx again
 

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MSD coils have problems. If you have one in there, put the original back in and try.
 

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My buddy (smiggey on here) lost spark on his F-150 last week. Best we can tell the hall effect sensor in the distributor took a crap. I gave him the EEC-IV distributor that was in my bronco and we stabbed it last night. Once he has the battery charged we are going to time the motor again. But we tested spark and the new (used) distributor fixed his no spark issue. His was also having similar issues. You could be driving down the road and it would stall as if someone flipped a switch. Was intermittent at first then it died all together. We also tried changing TFI modules (his was bad) and coils, caps, rotors and wires with no luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
got codes...22, 81, 82, 84...81-84 i think i got fixed, bad vacuum line...22 is map but i replace that. Dont see why any of thoughs would cause the no spark. I cleaned the grounds. Still no spark. Going to drop in a new distributor this week.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
alright, rebuilt the distributor dropped it in and its running .....thanx all for the great info. just got to take care of a few misc. things and it on the road (fingers crossed)..thanx again!!
 

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87 Bronco 5.0L. No spark- replaced pick-up, tried different ign. module ( 3 different ) swapped pcm's,,same thing. spark comes back when spout connector removed, reinstall connector and spark goes away again ???????
 

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Sounds like you got 'er fixed. Those EEC distributors will do that, I've had to replace the distributors in both my '94 Bronco and '86 F150.
 

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glad you got it fixed, these distributors are weird how they work one minute and not the next. i took one from the junk yard to have an extra. i really dont need that on a trail.
 

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87 Bronco 5.0L. No spark- replaced pick-up, tried different ign. module ( 3 different ) swapped pcm's,,same thing. spark comes back when spout connector removed, reinstall connector and spark goes away again ???????
Yo TROUT,
WELCOME!

As my Bro-in-Testing & Grease, BroncoJoe advised, a new post would be better; because idiots like me confuse you with orig poster's issues as well as the year.
So, for now;
Intermittent No-Spark: Spark w/SPOUT Connector Un-Plugged, but Falter and/or No-Spark w/SPOUT Connected (similar to Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark);
insulation around many Hall Effect (also called da Profile Ignition Pick-up (PIP) Signal, Stator, or RPM inside distributor) breaks down prematurely, leading to shorts leading to the TFI ignition module.
or,
Corroded connectors between the Hall Effect in the distributor and the TFI module...
Hall Effect Failure
I always replace a PIP sensor along with a defective ignition module.

or

Misfiring, Rough Idle, Surge, & Ping-Knock Symptoms, due to a Magnetized Shutter Wheel, (Bronco & all Fords w/EEC IV & TFI); "...Inside the TFI distributor is a Hall-Effect sensor that provides an RPM and POSITION signal to the Ignition module and ECM for fuel and ignition control. Mounted to the distributor shaft is a "shutter-wheel" that passes through the Hall-Effect sensor. The slots or windows cut in the shutter-wheel are what makes the Hall-Effect sensor switch on/off to create the signal it sends out. The shutter-wheel is supposed to be a piece of "dead" steel but can become magnetized. A magnetized wheel can cause very erratic operation of the Hall-Effect and resulting erratic output signal. The Test: There are a couple of ways to check for this condition. One is to simply pull off the distributor cap and see if something steel will "stick" to the shutter-wheel. Make sure that whatever you are using to check the wheel with isn't magnetized itself. A more accurate method would be to watch the wave-form on the "SPOUT" wire with a Vantage or Lab-Scope. The SPOUT is the wire with the connector in it that you unplug to set ignition timing. Monitor the wave-pattern on the SPOUT with the timing-connector in. If there is anything erratic about the wave-form, unplug the timing connector and re-check the wave-form. If the pattern "cleans up" all of a sudden, chances are good that you have a magnetized shutter-wheel. The Fix: Most shutter-wheels can be removed from the distributor shaft with a couple of screwsmagnetized shutter-wheel. The Fix: Most shutter-wheels can be removed from the distributor shaft with a couple of screws. (miesk5 Note; But Not in our Fords; many just buy a re-man distributor from Ford or NAPA). Everybody seems to have their own way of de-magnetizing the wheels but good success has been had with bulk audio-tape erasers or by placing the wheel in an engine parts cleaning oven and baking it. That last one sounds weird but it works..." Scroll down
Source: by snapon.com


You can get a reman distributor, but ensure that Hall Effect, etc were replaced ot Test your's & replace if bad

Testing, No Start and or Misfire, Overview & Diagrams, Thick Film Ignition (TFI), Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Part I; In This Fast Test you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) in four easy test steps. This test will only help you in a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition. So then, before starting the tests, it's critical that you have checked and verified that there's NO SPARK present at the Ignition Coil..." read Much More & SEE Site for Diagrams
by easyautodiagnostics.com
 

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I had this same issue this weekend. The Haynes manual said there should be 12v at the coil when the key is in run position but there wasn't. I tracked the white/blue wire back to the eec relay mounted to the airbox and jumped 12v to the wire at the relay and now it runs like a champ. The caveat is that the engine doesn't shut off when I turn the key off now so I have to disconnect the battery to kill the motor until I get a new relay. The strange thing is that I replaced the relay while I was diagnosing and it didn't fix the problem so I wonder if I got a bad relay from the junkyard.
 

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changed everything still no spark

first post sorry.. always read yours but never had to post but im stumped..91 bronco 5.8 ran great came out in morning and just turns over.. tryed starting fluid im getting fuel.. here is what i replaced.. eec relay fuel pump relay ignition coil cap rotor icm control mod my distributor has module mounted.. all plugs ignition switch. had to pull dizzy out to get to module so put back in and started but reved way to high.. ended up setting dizzy top dead center.. now using a spark plug tester i get spark some time and dont other times.. and still wont fire up.. if not mistaken power goes from battery to coil to cap to dizzy to plugs.. checked all with tester.. im stumped i need my girl running again.. any suggestion would be very much appreciated...
 

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I had a no start, but cranking, and no spark condition on a obd 2 vehicle, and it was the crankshaft position sensor. :clavin
 

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yea thats my next step to check crankshaft pos i done changed everything other than the dizzy hope this works. might just have to suck it up and buy a new dizzy.. thanks im going to try to clean it maybe some grime in there
 
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