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Anyone know what size bolts or a hardware kit for sale for the shell I bought the bronco and it came with a bunch of random bolts and screws holding it down and it rattles like crazy when I go off roading.
 

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78 Custom - 460 - NP435 - NP205 - Sniper EFI - HyperSpark Ignition - 4.56 Gears - Front/Rear Lockers
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I'm pretty sure that bolt is metric and can be found in your local hardware store. The proper name escapes me at the moment though.

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Yo ChalinoySuBronco702,

"...78-91 Broncos use 4 short bolts (8mm head, 6x1.00x40mm) on each bedrail & 5 long bolts (8mm head, 6x1.00x70mm) in the upper sections. All bolts thread into U-nuts, except the 2 upper corners & the 2 rear corners which use captive nut plates. The bedrail bolts each use a clip stamped "L" or "R", but the rearmost bolts use the opposite clip. The clips for the B-pillar bolts are not marked, but the smaller tab goes down.

92-96 Broncos use 5 short bolts (tamper T-40 head, 8x1.25x30mm) on each bedrail & 5 long bolts (tamper T-40 head, 8x1.25x60mm) in the upper sections. All bolts thread into U-nuts, except the 2 upper corners & the 4 rear corners which use captive nut plates. The bedrail bolts each use a clip stamped "L" or "R", except the rearmost bolts. The clips for the B-pillar bolts are not marked, but the smaller tab goes down. There are also nut plates in 4 of the camper shell bolt holes: the 2 rearmost, and the 2 outboard at the top of the cab. They're just a heavy plate (1/4"?) with a threaded hole...." by Steve

"
Camper80-96.


'80-96 Bronco Camper Shell & Sliding Side Windows
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

290C34 - Weatherstrip, division bar rear (EOTZ98290C34A)
29126 - ? Right side
29127 - ? Left side
29622 - Trim Insert Corner (stainless, optional)
29706 - Window, right sliding (EOTZ9829706A), with rear reinforcement
29707 - Window, left sliding (EOTZ9829707A), with rear reinforcement
29710 - Window, right fixed (E4TZ-9829710-F full 1-way; EOTZ-9829710-B full clear; EOTZ9829710D rear half)
29711 - Window, left fixed (E4TZ-9829711-F full 1-way; EOTZ-9829711-B full clear; EOTZ9829711D rear half)
29838 - Stop
29904 - Gasket (F4TZ-9829905-A fixed window with chrome insert, EOTZ-98299045-B sliding window with insert, EOTZ-98299045-F sliding window w/o insert)
29904 - Weatherstrip, division bar front (EOTZ9829904G right, EOTZ9829904H left)
30104 - Run Channel (EOTZ9830104A)
302A34 - Division Bar, right (EOTZ98302A34A)
302A35 - Division Bar, left (EOTZ98302A35A)
302A38 - Nut, nylon cap
303A24 - Latch Assembly
30518 - Frame, right bottom front (EOTZ9830518A)
30519 - Frame, right bottom front (EOTZ9830519A)
30534 - Frame, right top rear (EOTZ9830534A)
30535 - Frame, left top rear (EOTZ9830535A)
30536 - Corner Reinforcement, bottom rear (EOTZ9830536A)
30652 - Corner Reinforcement, top front (EOTZ9830652A)
385977-S - Nutsert M6x1.00 ('78-91 only)
387956-S - Alignment Pin, Allen 4mm (5/32") M6x1.00x15mm ('78-91 only)
422A00 - Window Track Liner (F2TZ-98422A00-A)
42430 - Trim Insert Strip (chromed nylon, optional)
50202 - Camper Shell (F2TZ9850202A)
502D26 - Reinforcement Plate (EOTZ98502D26A)
51322 - Body Edge Guard (D8TZ9851322A)
513C22 - Camper-to-body Seal, right side (F4TZ98513C22A)
513C23 - Camper-to-body Seal, left side (F4TZ98513C23A)
52055-S - Screw, Phillips #2 flat head #4x3/16"
54732 - Camper-to-body Seal, front (E8TZ9854732A)
N623342-S101 - U-Nut ('78-91 only), M6x1.00 (9 req'd.)
N644265-S - Screw, Phillips #2 cap head #6x1/4" (11 req'd. per side)
N800538-S100 - U-Nut ('92-96 only), M8x1.25 (11 req'd.)
N800947-S2 - Bolt ('78-91 only), 8mm hex head captive fender washer M6x1.00x40mm (8 req'd.)
N802867-S2 - Bolt ('78-91 only), 8mm hex head captive fender washer M6x1.00x70mm (5 req'd.)
N804271-S - Screw, Phillips #2 round head integral washer #6x3/4"
N806697-S58 - Bolt ('92-96 only), TT-40 captive fender washer M8x1.25x30mm (10 req'd.)
N806697-S58 - Bolt('92-96 only), TT-40 captive fender washer M8x1.25x60mm (5 req'd.)"
by Steve
¤⊙¤
Removal w/Tool List in an 86
Source: by Sixlitre @ 1986 Ford Bronco Top removal 101 pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net
 

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id do the nutsert and regular bolt conversion
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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id do the nutsert and regular bolt conversion
I'd like to see a good write-up on that from a satisfied DIY'er. I've got a nut-zert setup already and the idea of being able to use any type of automatic tool to remove those long bolts without scratching up the window glass has always been on the bucket list.

And just for the record... @miesk5 is THE MAN!!!
 

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I'd like to see a good write-up on that from a satisfied DIY'er. I've got a nut-zert setup already and the idea of being able to use any type of automatic tool to remove those long bolts without scratching up the window glass has always been on the bucket list.

And just for the record... @miesk5 is THE MAN!!!
I like the nut sert idea, but I'd be worried that it might loosen up with any twisting of the body. I was just looking at a rivnut tool that will do 1/4-20 up to 3/8-16, so maybe I'll take you up on that Pepsi challenge just to see.

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i cant see it a being a issue alot of modern cars use them from the factory for things now so they must hold up well.
 

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I'd like to see a good write-up on that from a satisfied DIY'er. I've got a nut-zert setup already and the idea of being able to use any type of automatic tool to remove those long bolts without scratching up the window glass has always been on the bucket list.

And just for the record... @miesk5 is THE MAN!!!
really you could do that with the old set up just get a proper torx bit.
 

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I just bought regular bolts (both Allen head and hex head) of the correct lengths / thread pitch. That way I can use whichever is easiest to work with. If you order from someplace like www.boltdepot.com good hardware is CHEAP.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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really you could do that with the old set up just get a proper torx bit.
Last rig I took the topper off of was my '90 and the socket would barely clear and occasionally "chatter" against the glass. Still haven't taken the top off the '95.
 

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Last rig I took the topper off of was my '90 and the socket would barely clear and occasionally "chatter" against the glass. Still haven't taken the top off the '95.
a good wiggler socket should help
 
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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Don't think I've seen a "wiggler" that small but I'm sure there's one out there.
 
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