Nice write up. When I did mine the window was down so I opened the tailgate and removed the glass so I wouldn't have to worry about it getting in the way. This was very easy. There was a warning in the book I think about the counter weight (an arm with a lot of spring tension). Be very careful with this because it let loose while I was doing this and if my hand would've been in there it would easily have broken my hand/removed fingers. :shocked
1990 tailgate window motor replacement
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Thanks. I should have kept that one . . . very low maintenance!teufelhunden said:bitchin' nova
BTW ya'll, I thought I'd offer my CAI write up since everyone else had one: Click here for CAI write-up.
Hrmmm.....I kinda like that CAI. I bet its quite loud, especially when you mash the go pedal. Do you ever have any problem with water, mud, ( i assume excessive dirt because its just basically an open element), or small children getting caught in there?
It's hella-loud. I have a couple of short .avi vids of some WOT action, but am having trouble uploading them to my server. I could email them if you're interested (all under 6MB).351Bronco said:Hrmmm.....I kinda like that CAI. I bet its quite loud, especially when you mash the go pedal. Do you ever have any problem with water, mud, ( i assume excessive dirt because its just basically an open element), or small children getting caught in there?
As for water and mud, I haven't taken it anywhere that serious off road. I may eventually get some mud up in there, but refuse to wade through water that deep. It stays nice and dry on rainy days. I've had it set up that way for about one year and still don't see any need to clean the filter.
BTW, I grew up in Bountiful, which is not far from where you are (as you probably know).
Yeah, I wouldnt mind the vids, it'd be interesting to see and hear how it sounds. I know what you mean about the water, I highly doubt I will be taking my truck through water that deep (thats damn near 4 1/2 feet), But i do play in some serious mud every now and then. Maybe I'll go have to snag a box from the junkyard, and have one for street use and one for offroadin :thumbup
Yeah, ive gotten to know bountiful pretty good in the past 5 months (my girlfriend lives there). Theres a couple people on the board that live there now. :chili:
Yeah, ive gotten to know bountiful pretty good in the past 5 months (my girlfriend lives there). Theres a couple people on the board that live there now. :chili:
351Bronco, send my your email address at [email protected]
Speaking of Bountiful, there used to be a nice place to off road right where the B is on the mountain. I think it's been restricted now, but there used to be a huge mud pit up there in the spring. My brother used to hang out there in his Suzukis and Tacoma. Click here to check out some of his pics.
Speaking of Bountiful, there used to be a nice place to off road right where the B is on the mountain. I think it's been restricted now, but there used to be a huge mud pit up there in the spring. My brother used to hang out there in his Suzukis and Tacoma. Click here to check out some of his pics.
351Bronco, I finally got my video to work on my server. Click here.
Guys, this thread seems the right place...has anyone ever taken the guts out of an older K5 tailgate and placed them in a Bronco (1990) tailgate? I know bko's glas goes up at slight (30 degree I think) angle as opposed to blazer's 90 degree, but I would like to have the option of using hand crank to raise and lower back glass since when wheeling, sometimes battery gets either low or down....what do you all think?
Sorry, GHOSTRIDER, but I can't help you on that one. My suggestion would be to either find a junk yard with a Bronco and a Blazer and compare the two or, perhaps, try to cross-reference the part numbers at the local parts store.
I've just renewed my subsription to the web host; try it again in a couple of days. :beer
It's back. Nice writeup :thumbup
Mine still works but it is verrrry sloooow.. It helps to see what it looks like inside before I crack it open and lube the gears and tracks to see if it will help. If not I know what I have to do to swap the motor out.
Mine still works but it is verrrry sloooow.. It helps to see what it looks like inside before I crack it open and lube the gears and tracks to see if it will help. If not I know what I have to do to swap the motor out.
Where's the write-up
I realized this is a very old thread, but the link at the top to the write-up doesn't work. Does anyone know of another technical write-up for replacing the tailgate window motor? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Trauma
I realized this is a very old thread, but the link at the top to the write-up doesn't work. Does anyone know of another technical write-up for replacing the tailgate window motor? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Trauma
Need Write-up
Anyone know where the write up is? If web hosting is a problem I will host it for free:thumbup. Just need it ASAP
FTS
Anyone know where the write up is? If web hosting is a problem I will host it for free:thumbup. Just need it ASAP
FTS
====Anyone know where the write up is? If web hosting is a problem I will host it for free:thumbup. Just need it ASAP
FTS
Yo FEAR
I retrieved it from www heaven
Motor Replacement in a 90; see site for pics; "...STEP 1: Remove the access panel on the inside of the tailgate. Note: If your motor is not operational, then you will have to do this while sitting inside the vehicle. I was able to use my motor, which was working intermittently, to get this picture. You will, however, need to be inside the vehicle with the tailgate closed to perform the following steps. DO NOT roll the window up while the tailgate is down as the window may break without proper support. FYI: The motor is located between the tailgate latch release handle and the outer sheet metal skin, approximately in the vicinity of the lightened area of this picture. STEP 2: With the window in the up position, place something solid to support it. Once you have the motor out of the door, this support will be the only thing keeping the window up. (Note to self: clean the dirt out of the inside of here some day). STEP 3: Disconnect the wiring harness that runs to the motor. Because of the location of the wiring harness connectors and position locks, I was not able to capture this step with my camera. The harness runs behind the regulator to the bottom of the tailgate, then back up the inside of the inner sheet metal skin where it can be disconnected. STEP 4: Locate the three bolts that hold the motor in place. Use a 5/16" socket (1/4" drive) to remove them and the motor. Be patient as you may learn valuable skills as a contortionist during this process. STEP 5: Be sure the replacement motor is the correct one and that the wiring harness is compatible. For reference, I took photos of the original motor (left) and replacement motor (right) identification numbers. FYI: The replacement motor is identical to the one used for the right side door (if so equipped). STEP 5.1: As I discovered, the harness lead on my replacement motor was too short. Do not make the mistake of simply hooking a shorter harness lead to the vehicle's harness. This mistake may not appear to be a problem until you try to roll the window down and discover that the harness needs to reach all the way under the window at ALL times. I simply spliced the old harness into the new harness and used heat shrink to keep the union water proof. I also recommend testing the motor before bolting it back into place to be sure the connections are good. STEP 5.2: Another discovery I made was the lack of threads in the mounting holes of my replacement motor. I suspect most aftermarket replacement motors do not have threads. I made the decision to put threads in the holes rather than fight with nuts (once you've found what fun it is to remove one of these motor, you'll agree). I used a 12-24 N.C. tap to match the threads to the original bolts. STEP 6: Lube the gear on the replacement motor that powers the regulator. It's also not a bad idea to lube up the moving joints in the regulator to help reduce resistance, which both maximizes speed of operation and minimizes work load on the replacement motor. STEP 7: Bolt the replacement motor into place. This step will probably be the most difficult as it is not easy to line up the motor with the regulator and start the bolts while trying to keep an eye on what your doing. But if I can do it so can you. STEP 8: Remove the temporary window support. STEP 9: Secure the wiring harness into place using the factory position locks. Note: I recommend testing the operation of the motor with the key or dash switch before going further in case something is not right. STEP 10: Replace the tailgate access panel..."
Source: by Mud E1 (Brent R)
@ http://web.archive.org/web/20051123031948/www.bejara.com/twmr.html
Click;
Impatient?
a few times to load the site
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