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Discussion Starter #1
I am replacing wheel bearings and was wondering if you need the inner and outer seals also? Also can someone confirm if the 90 manual locking uses the 1 5/8 4 prong socket or the 6 prong and does this list look correct?
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Discussion Starter #2
Also any other part I should replace in the hubs as maintenance?

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Yo khh27,
See this Dana 44 Wheel & Spindle Seals Replacement in a 90 (part of his ball joint installation)
Source: by Iolaus (Jeff J)
Includes Replacement Warn® 6 screw in a 90, part of his ball joint installation, but torque specs are off; Wheel Bearing Locknut Torque Settings for 80-96 MANUAL HUBS, NOT Factory Auto Hubs; Ford Pickups and Bronco; "...Using a lockout spanner (Ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees. Assemble the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006“ inch." Thanks to 90beater (Topher, Chris)!!!!

Operational Test; "...To CHECK FOR PROPER ENGAGEMENT, dial both hubs to LOCK and raise the front left corner of the vehicle off the ground. Spin the lifted tire. The drive line will turn if the Hub is engaging properly. TO CHECK FOR PROPER DISENGAGEMENT, dial the lifted wheel hub into FREE and spin the lifted wheel. If the drive line does not turn AND you hear NO ratcheting sounds, the hub is disengaging properly. Repeat step 5- 6 with the right wheel & hub. NOTE: The hubs are not required to seat against the wheel housing when installed, they may move in and out quite easily. This float is normal and will not affect performance..."
Source: by Warn®
"...Manual Hub OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS: ONLY use fingers to turn dials. DO NOT USE PLIERS. Set the hublock dials to FREE and transfer case to 2-high for all driving that does not require four wheel drive. To engage four wheel drive set the hublock dials to LOCK and set the transfer case to 4-high or 4-low. Return the transfer case to 2-high before disengaging hublocks. Do not drive on hard surface roads in 4-wheel rive because it can cause drive train damage. Do not move the vehicle if the hubs are anywhere between FREE and LOCK or it will damage the hublocks. Driving with only one hublock engaged can cause drive train damage. Driving with the hublocks in FREE and transfer case in 4-low can cause drive train damage. To ensure lubrication of the front axle, engage hublocks for a minimum of one mile monthly..."
Source: by Warn®
 

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I just did this job on my 80 and I can't figure out where an outer wheel seal would go, assuming the inner goes behind (inside) of the inner (larger) wheel bearing. Perhaps your 90 is set up differently, or I should have put a seal somewhere I didn't!

You may consider having a locknut/lockwasher set for each spindle on hand.

I had much better luck using a socket that had a counterbore to catch the washer OD, instead of the four male finger designs that are cheaper. I bought a GearWrench kit with a few spindle sockets but I can't recall the number of the D44 one.

You could inspect rotors for thickness and runout and have them turned, assuming your shop is more qualified than the one I used. Maybe new lugnuts, if they look like the need it.

And you could do what I did - start with wheel bearings and end with the chunk out of the axle housing. It's hard to stop once you start taking stuff apart - at least for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Can anyone confirm it should be the the three piece lockouts and not the ratching nut one? Wont be able to check til Saturday and wanna get the socket first

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Discussion Starter #6
I havent seen anything about an outer seal?? Just inner??

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