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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok everybody. I introduced myself back in late July/ early August time right after I got the Bronco. This thread will be just as much for me to keep track of everything as it will be for you guys to enjoy and ask questions (hopefully). Anyway here goes.

Picked it up back in July for probably too much money but it's the exact configuration I wanted (manual trans and tcase, power locks, power windows) plus it had lots of extras I liked like 33" tires, winch and winch bumper, small lift, etc so I justified the extra cost in my head because that's all stuff I wouldn't have to add myself. So far I’ve driven it to work a few times, around the house a bit and the big trip (100 mi round trip) to my buddy’s house. I wouldn’t call it DD ready at this point but it’s getting there! Kinda hard to DD it with that terrible fuel economy too LOL!

Specs as I bought it:
1991 EB
302 V8 (Has a Mustang oil pan so I’m wondering if this even the original motor)
5 speed
Manual tcase
Factory 3.55 gears (rears are looking a bit worn)
Holley 4160 converted to dual feed line
MSD ignition with Taylor 8mm wires
Very short very loud exhaust with shorty headers -all unknown brands
Camshaft of unknown brand and type
Moroso Valve covers
Weiand street warrior intake manifold
Winch bumper of unknown make and model
Warn winch - unknown model
Two Hella lights wired into high beams
2 or 3 inch lift - maybe just a level?
33x10.5x15 BFG KO including spare
Sony headunit
Yellowtop battery
Alarm of unknown brand
Smittybuilt hi-lift jack mounted in the back
2x 5 gallon gas cans mounted in the back
Giant removable roof rack
Aftermarket rear bumper (might sell this guy actually)


My to do list:
-Change front diff oil - have oil and gasket just need to do
-Change tcase oil - have oil just need to do
-Redo wiring underhood especially winch, Hella lights, and main battery cables. Remove old sensors/connectors that are no longer needed.
-Fix vacuum issues especially blend door (hose is broken completely anybody know where to get this?)
-Replace turn signal switch - have part just need to do it
-Replace steering wheel
-Lots of paint and body work
-Replace radius arm bushings - have part just need to do it
-Figure out why coolant system won't hold vacuum
-Replace thermostat and housing - have parts just need to do it - someone installed a 160 deg stat in it
-Fix or replace headunit
-Replace speakers???
-Replace ignition key cylinder
-Figure out why windshield washer nozzles don't work and for that matter where they went
-Quieter muffler and extend exhaust back to factory location
-Replace door seals
-Replace outer window seals and inner felts
-Replace carpet
-Replace rubber portion of fuel filler neck - have part just need to do it
-Wire back in license plate lights
-Find the random current draw that’s draining the battery (alarm?)
-Repair or replace drivers seat
-Flip wires on passenger side window motor so up is up and down is down
-Repair or replace power lock on drivers side
-Strip tint off of rear window
-Replace passenger exterior mirror (Anyone know of any good replacements?)
-Bleed clutch
-Heli-coil the air filter mount threads in the carb
-Repair or replace dipstick (dipstick tube pulls out very easily)
-Rebuild trans or swap for rebuilt ZF-5 in preparation for 4bt swap

My done list:
-Replace freeze plug that blew out - done- ford oem
-Replace leaky oil pan gasket - done- felpro
-Change engine oil - done- amsoil
-Change trans fluid - done- amsoil
-Change rear axle fluid - done -amsoil w/ felpro
-Change coolant - done
-Replace battery - done -interstate from costco
-Rebuild shifter - done - (best 15 bucks I've ever spent on a vehicle, my bushings were completely gone. I have video of before and after if anyone wants to see.)
-Rebuild carb – done
-Correct fuel pressure – done
-Correct high idle issue – done
-Replace radiator cap – done
-Strip tint off of front windows - done

For those of you who stuck around this long..... pics and videos!
My Flikr - Pics and videos
 

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Sounds like PO ditched the EFI . Do you know if its still got the 91 ECM? If so,you must have the CEL on with a myriad of codes
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sounds like PO ditched the EFI . Do you know if its still got the 91 ECM? If so,you must have the CEL on with a myriad of codes
Yea, PO or PO twice removed. No telling who, no idea how many owners this thing has had. I believe the ecm is still in there and yes I've got a permanent CEL and have to rely on a few aftermarket gauges. Only the voltage, speedo, and gas gauge work. Tach, oil pressure, coolant temp and vacuum are aftermarket. A buddy of mine who worked on OBD1 mustang's had a spare code reader that he gave me. I need to put batteries in it and see what all it's complaining about and see if any of it is legit.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So the wife's car got a tick in the top end which I think is the result of a failed or failing oil pump. Result is the bronco is getting shoved into DD duty for now.

New priorities are the license plate lights, blend door, and passenger side mirror. Anybody know of any decent replacements or good ways to fix the mirror so it stays in place? Mine just flops down on the first bump after adjustment.
 

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For the mirror, I'd check out the bone yard. My area yards always have a few of our era trucks to choose from. Top end ticks are normally a valve train issue, and on some engines pretty common.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
For the mirror, I'd check out the bone yard. My area yards always have a few of our era trucks to choose from. Top end ticks are normally a valve train issue, and on some engines pretty common.
Bone yard. Not a bad idea. Thanks.

Yea I got the dreaded "oil pressure low- shut down engine immediately" warning message on the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
So tonight's issue... drivers window is STUCK down. No amount of lifting manually is budging it. I can't figure out what happened. I lowered my window going home from work, I heard a heavy clunk and now nothing. I've got the door panel off but no matter what i try i can't get that window back up. I really don't want to freeze in the morning since i apparently don't have heat (i think it's the blower motor) so if this window doesn't go up i will freeze.

Any ideas? PS full voltage is being supplied at the connector so unless the wires are broken between the connector and the motor it shouldn't be a wiring or power problem. It doesn't seem like the wires are broken, I tried to get myself some slack and there wasn't any.
 

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The motor itself is likely the problem. Passenger went first a couple years ago, and drivers a few months ago. The passenger motor just stopped, completely dead. Drivers side was sporadic and would work when it felt like it. Not too hard of a job really, but if they have never been replaced you will need to drill a hole to get to one of the bolt heads to remove the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well that was fun. Someone had put three nuts into the plastic gear housing that's inside the motor. Plastic gear finally cracked and that's what seized it all up. Motor is actually fine. I'm hoping I can return the window motor since I didn't even open the box. I'd rather buy the little gear assembly and keep the original motor compared to a new Chinese one.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Good news: window is working again.

Bad news (HELP!!??): Severe hesitation/ bog/ entire truck shuddering. Most noticeable between 1500-2000 rpm, sometimes as low as 1000. This started when the weather started changing. At first, it was only there with a cold motor. Then today happened. This morning after a 20 mile drive, granted the air was cold but full operating temp, it nearly stalled out on me. This afternoon with mild weather in the mid 40s, hot or cold engine(beginning or end of commute) it was wanting to stall. If I use enough right foot I can drive around the issue but it requires a decent throttle opening. The only thing that I legit changed with the carb when I rebuilt it was the power valve. I think it was like a couple numbers higher- I need to find my notes. No issues with it weeks ago when i first did it. So at first i thought that was the issue but with the warm afternoon air i would expect it to be back to normal. What I really don't get is why it seems to vary so much in severity. My only other thoughts are a misbehaving choke or something up with the vacuum advance on the distributor. Any thoughts?

Edit: I MIGHT have found it. The accelerator pump linkage has some slop in it. I'm going to tighten that back up and see if that does it.
 

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Well that was fun. Someone had put three nuts into the plastic gear housing that's inside the motor. Plastic gear finally cracked and that's what seized it all up. Motor is actually fine. I'm hoping I can return the window motor since I didn't even open the box. I'd rather buy the little gear assembly and keep the original motor compared to a new Chinese one.

the nuts arent the problem its the fact that there was no grease. i had to do the same to mine. id recommend going back to nuts instead of the oem bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
the nuts arent the problem its the fact that there was no grease. i had to do the same to mine. id recommend going back to nuts instead of the oem bushings.
There was a fair amount of grease in there but good to know anyway. If the bushings give me problems maybe I'll try it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Good news: window is working again.

Bad news (HELP!!??): Severe hesitation/ bog/ entire truck shuddering. Most noticeable between 1500-2000 rpm, sometimes as low as 1000. This started when the weather started changing. At first, it was only there with a cold motor. Then today happened. This morning after a 20 mile drive, granted the air was cold but full operating temp, it nearly stalled out on me. This afternoon with mild weather in the mid 40s, hot or cold engine(beginning or end of commute) it was wanting to stall. If I use enough right foot I can drive around the issue but it requires a decent throttle opening. The only thing that I legit changed with the carb when I rebuilt it was the power valve. I think it was like a couple numbers higher- I need to find my notes. No issues with it weeks ago when i first did it. So at first i thought that was the issue but with the warm afternoon air i would expect it to be back to normal. What I really don't get is why it seems to vary so much in severity. My only other thoughts are a misbehaving choke or something up with the vacuum advance on the distributor. Any thoughts?

Edit: I MIGHT have found it. The accelerator pump linkage has some slop in it. I'm going to tighten that back up and see if that does it.
Adjusting the linkage helped some but didn't fix the issue. Also figured out the rear ujoint that's within the CV on the rear driveshaft is shot. That'll make for a fun Friday night.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Posted an updated video of it idling with the current exhaust. Hope to be switching that out in the next couple of weeks.

New Idle video - original exhaust by Br Po, on Flickr

Also posted a couple new pics. Random coolant leak on the top of the motor behind the water pump and a dent from what looks like may have been when the rear driveshaft was thrown under a previous owner's care. Hopefully this driveshaft will make it to Friday evening with one messed up u joint...
 
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