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Discussion Starter #1
I live in a flood zone, and sometimes we have to do the right thing and help others.

The water came up while I was in there working, wasn't that deep when I entered the area over a low bridge, but I had to get out. It was a close call even with a 6 inch lift.

Those who also goes deep - regardless of why - what can be done to ensure the ignition continues working>

I can manage vents, intake, etc. But how the heck do you prep the ignition?
 

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These rigs can go through pretty deep water. I've had it to the middle of my doors..as long as you don't pull any into the intake you'll be ok. When you say ignition, do you mean like the distributor? If so, they make a rubber boot that will keep water from splashing all over it, that's what I have, but it's not going to do you any good if it gets submerged..
 

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These rigs can go through pretty deep water. I've had it to the middle of my doors..as long as you don't pull any into the intake you'll be ok. When you say ignition, do you mean like the distributor? If so, they make a rubber boot that will keep water from splashing all over it, that's what I have, but it's not going to do you any good if it gets submerged..

I hope like hell i never get that deep again, but yes. with a 6 inch lift i had water rolling under the intake, and the fan was munching it up too.

It sputtered but never died. filter box had water in it.

the probability of me doing that again are damn few if any. But if i can take steps i will.
 

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84 Bronco, 351w, c6, custom doubler, np208, 5.13’s, TTB44, 9”, locked f/r
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I’ve had two of mine deep enough the fan was churning water and water was coming in the cab, never had an issue. I put dielectric grease all around the distributor cap before I put it on, and in all plug boots and electrical connections.
Check your hubs/wheel bearings after deep water crossing too, cause water can get in there and there isn’t a good way to make those 100% water tight due to the design of the seals
 

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I’ve had two of mine deep enough the fan was churning water and water was coming in the cab, never had an issue. I put dielectric grease all around the distributor cap before I put it on, and in all plug boots and electrical connections.
Check your hubs/wheel bearings after deep water crossing too, cause water can get in there and there isn’t a good way to make those 100% water tight due to the design of the seals
Yeah i spent a full day on lube the next day.
 

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84 Bronco, 351w, c6, custom doubler, np208, 5.13’s, TTB44, 9”, locked f/r
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If you want to get really crazy, I’ve heard of people running a low air pressure, just a few psi, into their distributor, to actively push water out. Never seen it done in person, just heard of it
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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Axle, transmission and transfer case vents should all be moved up as high as possible. Dont forget your gas tank vent too.

@jermil01 mentioned a distributor boot; you used to be able to find them in junkyards on Mustangs. Might still be able to find one, but prob not as easy anymore.

@NickOille 's recommendation of dielectric grease in every connector you can get your hands on is a good idea.

The airbox should have drain holes in it so you cant fill it with water, make sure theyre clean. There are 2 different fresh air intake tubes; one goes thru the core to behind the grill (usually on 4.9 & 7.5 engines), one goes up above and attaches to the top of the core support basically under the hood (usually on 5.0 & 5.8 engines). If you have the lower one, consider switching to the higher one.

Electric fan is a good idea, so you can turn it off in deep water. The stock mechanical fan tends to throw water all over your engine compartment.

Dont forget to use a GOOD wheelbearing grease that can tolerate water contamination. Some greases do better than others when they see water.
 

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i tend to sumerge my trucks pretty deep. deeper than id like. all my trucks have had water up to the seats at one point. my 88 is kinda built for handling deep water at mudding events. its still not perfect but it can run pretty good now

probably the number 1 thing i personally learned going through deep water in a normal truck is go in reverse. it really helps keep water out of the fan/radiator, EFI, ignition, and intake. i see alot of cars/trucks go through puddles and slightly deep water and hydrolock, heck i hydrolocked my 96 driving through a puddle. i have never really had any issues going in reverse going through deeper water even at high speed (which is really fun to do btw).



a vent for the transmission is something alot of people forget about and is not super easy to add. but it is imp ortant. you dont want to get water in the trans. same for t-case but thats more simple. you may pull the access panel from the cab so you can access the trans vent. otherwise you alsmost have to pull the trans to get to it. different trans have them in different locations but most generally at the top with a little metal cap loosly folded over them


the distributor is kinda tricky. there is a vent cap in the top. but the cap and the cap adapter itself is not sealed. there is also a drain hole in bottom of the dizzy. and if you go sealing it all up then the cap and rotor will wear at a high rate. i sealed my 88 up and water is still getting in somehow, but now that its sealed i have to actually suck it out to get it going. the mustang boot is commonly used, can be had at JBG or elsewere. it helps but is not perfect. carry a can of WD40 jsut incase. in a perfect world you should be able to put a bag over the dizzy and keep most water out the best for the times you know your gonig in deep


most of the electronics is actually pretty durable to water. not impervious but resiliant. ive had my PCMs underwater and run fine. but ive also been stranded at a carwash twice when it got wet. you might want to pull the computer and put some PCB acrylic coating over it. ive heard of people using spray on clearcoat also but i like using stuff designed for waterproofing PCBs.

dialectric grease is good on spark plug boots and connectors. make sure connectors are good. carry spare fuses and relays. ive never really ever had an issue with needing to worry about fuse boxes going underwater. i guess because they are a direct connection and water itself is not actually very conductive.

might also consider getting a winch. incase soemthnig does go wrong trying to cross, its good insurance. this was at Ocala national Forest couple years ago in my 96 and @ANGELO in his 78. i got stuck and he got stuck trying to recover. kept the engines running 2 hours while stuck in this water. everything was fine afterwards because i preped good. the next weekend i put a winch on because i did not like being stuck that long and angelo had to get his other truck with a winch to get us out


always be prepared for it to be alot deeper than you expect. i learned that the hard wayon my 88 few years ago. a hole i been through several times in the past was was suddenly MUCH deeper. as in 4' deep. i had to actually swim to get the strap. truck had 37"s and 9" of lift and still got swallowed


unless your stupid like me, dont go fast though water. you make a wave that goes over the entire front and even top. it will suck right into the intake, probably hydrolock. soak everything in the engine bay incluieding distriburtor. make windshield wet and kill visability. that was the same hole that sunk my truck but this was with 2" of lift and 34s further adding to the 'deeper than expected' issue



as said, check everything when you are done. but these will help you get through somethnig in an emergency. you can always check the other stuff later.
 
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