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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

My son and I are replacing the braking system due to age and wear. The rear has been converted to EGR Disk Brakes.

We have installed the Power booster, master cylinder, calipers, rotors, etc... The front brake lines need to be replaced due to damage and rot. We are are having a difficult time removing the drivers side line. This is the line with the splitter in the fender well.

We have removed the line from the caliper. We have removed the line from the MC to the engine side of the connector with the line splitter (inside the frame).

We are not able to budge the flex line connector with the splitter. I used my rifle borescope to see what is on the engine side of the frame. I see a clip on both sides of the frame where it attaches. The nut attached to the connector with the built-on splitter is a half hex with a hose connector or one side.

We did remove the tire and fender well to see what the hell we are doing. I soaked the connector in PB Blaster for two days. I still cannot budge it, even using a large adjustable wrench and a steel hammer. My shop manual has no information pertaining to this connection or the removal of this line.

We sure would appreciate some guidance to help us replace this line. Thanks in advance.

1991 Bronco XLT, 5.0L HO, E40D, 4" Rough County Lift.
 

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That clip is a PITA to remove. I did mine last year and took a die grinder to cut it then chiseled it off. I replaced both the rubber hose and the metal line. Plan on doing both. Cut them out, grind the clip and install all new :thumbup

Edit: Oh and by the way, I started with that line, bled the brakes and popped a rear line. The truck got a total makeover of brake lines.
 

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I have the same problem with my clip on the passenger side. Apparently a lot of people just chisel it off. If it's never been removed then it's probably fused to the body with rust-magic. I didn't have a new line on me or the tools to bend one myself but I would think just have everything you need to replace the whole segment and cut everything off.

You can get new clips from any auto store.

http://www.carid.com/images/dorman/brake-parts/13987.jpg That's what they look like (well, looked like two decades ago when they were new)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you very much gentlemen. I will knock it out tomorrow. Just in time to install some some Energy Suspension bushings and dust covers.

Any of you guys ever install a larger throttle body, injectors and intake. I have a Ford Racing 302 HO in this thing. I would like to exploit it. I am pretty sure that I will need a chip and some info on tweaks.

One more request... We are eating window motors. Does anyone have experience with electric window electronics and mechanics? Any source for metal gears for the window motors?
 

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One more request... We are eating window motors. Does anyone have experience with electric window electronics and mechanics? Any source for metal gears for the window motors?
The gears aren't the problem its the plastic rollers in the gearing that fail. Unless you're talking about the motor just burning. If you're constantly damaging motors and gears like that, its probably the window tracks aren't letting the windows move smoothly enough. Try replacing the window tracks with new.

If you're dead set on metal "gears" try replacing the plastic rollers in the gears with nuts of about the same size. I've heard that works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
AFBBronco235,

I checked out your build, "Project Farmhand". Very nice work. That wasn't OJ's Bronco, was it? How do you feed your Cold Air Intake? Did you route it backward to add the snorkel?
 

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AFBBronco235,

I checked out your build, "Project Farmhand". Very nice work. That wasn't OJ's Bronco, was it? How do you feed your Cold Air Intake? Did you route it backward to add the snorkel?
I think further discussion of my build should be done on my build thread.

The intake I went with sucks in cold air from the same spot the stock cold air intake does. The only reason I went with a modified intake was the stock one no longer fit with my dual battery setup installed. And there is NO SNORKEL!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Steve83,

Thank you sir. I just left your page on SuperMotors. You have thorough collection of information. I got the clips out without damage. The C washers were destroyed. The Skyjacker 4" lift brake lines installed rather easily. I did have to grind a little bit of metal to get the clip back on. I could not use the C washers with their fittings.

We are now wrestling with front and rear sway bar bushings. I got a pretty peaved when I removed the wheels. I had a local shop install some new 17" wheels and tires. It is evident that they did not measure the clearance very well. the inside edge of the tire and wheel are getting cut by the sway bar mounting bolt and the sway bar itself. I ground the bolt down about 3/4" so it will clear the tire. I also took a little meat off of the sway bar. It did not take much to address the issue. The shop could have taken care of this easily during the installation, or at least let me know of the potential problem.
 

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the inside edge of the tire and wheel are getting cut by...the sway bar itself.
The sway bar is round, and it won't hurt the tire to rub it. You won't be doing 80mph at full steering lock. If you don't want the tire to rub, put the stock tire size back on; OR add material to the shim plate bolted to the front of the axle housing where the steering knuckle stop hits so you lose some steering angle.
I also took a little meat off of the sway bar. It did not take much to address the issue.
It doesn't matter - it's like scoring glass, which makes it REALLY easy to break. You've ruined that sway bar, and if you ever articulate the axle, it'll probably snap. I recommend finding a replacement soon.
 

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So you're telling me, on a piece of steel that's the better part of an inch thick, taking a tenth off is going to seriously compromise it's structural integrity? Really?

Sorry I call bullshit unless I can see evidence from your experiences with this where they broke IN the spot they were ground.
 

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I did done broke it
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Shit I drilled through my clip (flared and nutted the line and attached the rubber hose to that) and then proceeded to jump the Bronco for like 8 weekends in a row and it didn't give a damn. I also didn't nick the mount at all (I don't think, lotta rust).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hello Steve,

Nothing was scored. The bend was not flattened. The bar is more of an oval on one side rather than round. What did you mean by "articulate the axle"?
 

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...taking a tenth off is going to seriously compromise it's structural integrity? Really?
So you're telling me you think Ford made that bar 111% the size it needed to be? Really? And did you ever hear of "stress concentration"?
I call bullshit...
Great. :thumbup Go grind your Bronco's swa... Oh, wait - nevermind. :duh
...proceeded to jump the Bronco for like 8 weekends in a row...
Jumps cause virtually no articulation (just travel), which means they have no effect on the sway bars.
Nothing was scored. ... The bar is more of an oval on one side rather than round.
It doesn't have to be literally scored - the reduction in cross-sectional area over such a short distance in such a brittle material as spring steel is the equivalent of scoring glass.
What did you mean by "articulate the axle"?
One wheel up; the opposite (on the same axle) down. That puts the maximum load on the sway bar, which is the moment that it's most likely to break.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
... add material to the shim plate bolted to the front of the axle housing where the steering knuckle stop hits so you lose some steering angle.It doesn't matter - it's like scoring glass, which makes it REALLY easy to break. You've ruined that sway bar, and if you ever articulate the axle, it'll probably snap. I recommend finding a replacement soon.
Steve83,

How would you suggest adding material to the shim plate? I have a limited knowledge of suspension and steering mechanics. Would you mind sharing a diagram or picture to aid in doing so.
 

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I did done broke it
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My point being you can get that crap out of there however you want. Just be careful and know you might be doing some flaring
 

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No, they're not available anywhere but the JY, and only in the original thickness or less (due to wear & damage). Steer your wheels so one ALMOST touches the sway bar, then look at or measure the gap there. Compare it to the other side. Either bolt in thicker plates in place of the originals, or weld material to the originals.
 

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Thanks for the question and the photos. Was having a hard time getting them off myself through all the gunk. New ones installed now!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
We are currently addressing other issues that are preventing us from inspecting the vehicle. The brake lines, master cylinder, power booster, calipers, and rotors have been replaced.

We did grind the swa bar mounting bolt ends down to prevent contact with tire or wheel.

Next we will follow Steve83's advice and add some metal to the steering stop plates to prevent further damage and to address the oversteer problem properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Adding material with welder worked great

No, they're not available anywhere but the JY, and only in the original thickness or less (due to wear & damage). Steer your wheels so one ALMOST touches the sway bar, then look at or measure the gap there. Compare it to the other side. Either bolt in thicker plates in place of the originals, or weld material to the originals.
I played around with small pieces of sheet metal looking for the right size shim to stop the contact. I figured out that due to the location of the stop and the stop plate that a small increase would allow for a good bit of seperation. I decided that a shim was not needed. Instead, I would simply add some steel to the existing plate.

I unbolted the turn stop plate from the axle. I put it in a vice and then used a MIG welder to fill in the indentation from years of use. I also added a little more material to increase the thickness by about 1/10 of an inch. Now the stop makes contact with about 1" of clearance between my wheel and the sway bar mounting bolt. :thumbup
 
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