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Discussion Starter #1
New guy here.

So the wife let me get a new project. traded the old one for this one. traded my pontoon boat for this bronco.

The goal.... bring it back to life.....

any suggestions on where to begin
I have already got the engine running good with no check engine lights however, there are components under the hood I have no idea what they are called or where to find them. like the smog pump pre filter. where in the world can you get one of those and how to properly install it. so if anyone can give me a break down of component names under the hood I would greatly appreciate it.
seems as if the 1992 isn't the most common one out there but, that's what I have and want to restore.
 

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Yo C,
As I mentioned in your Intro post, the pump's filter is very difficult to source new.
For a YARD SEARCH on-line, I use;
https://www.hollanderparts.com
A yard that uses Hollander Interchange can search other yards and have it shipped.
Can select certain parts
Has Vehicle Pics for some vehicles
If a specific part, such as the smog pump filter isn't listed, search again for the next higher assembly, such as in this instance, the Air Injection Pump
I searched for 1992>Ford > Bronco > Engine Accessories > Air Injection Pump
Two results for EXAMPLE:
Pic @ http://images.hollandersolutions.com/ACQ/JLZ/TPZ/5FH/G.jpg
Langston Used Auto Parts
8011 North Highway 301 Tampa, FL [email protected]

Pic @ https://www.hollanderparts.com/used-auto-parts/1996/ford/bronco/engine-accessories/341-air-injection-pump/341-00282-8-302-(5.0l)/part-181809-6340-1#&gid=null&pid=13
Rocki Top Auto Salv. LLC.
W. 3095 Walthrath Rd. Glen Flora, WI 54526 [email protected]..

or
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
Can select certain parts
Can search by year range, such as 92 through 96 & has best item condition descriptions such as "COVER BAD LEATHER PWR BKT GRY"
Has Vehicle Pics for some vehicles incl. interior/dash, back seat, front & rear and engine bay
...
Pick-n-Pull » Home
This is a Company name w/yard locations in various states
Can NOT Select certain parts
Has Vehicle Pics for some vehicles

http://row52.com/Search
Can NOT Select certain parts
Has Vehicle Pics for some vehicles
AND Want a Part? It's Easy...
1. You create a Parts Wanted Listing.
2. Parts Pullers respond with offers.
3. You pick the best one.
A Parts Puller gets the parts you need.

****

for obsolete parts by Ford long version pn:
http://www.partsvoice.com/
http://www.rearcounter.com
Main
https://nospartsltd.com
&
For new discounted Ford parts:
https://consumerlink.oeconnection.com/91554453363118850 (suggested by JScatt!)

Stop by a local Ford dealer parts department and ask. They will look it up in the Interchange Guide data base.


The Ford bean counters deleted the public Interchange Guide and Buyer's Guide a few years ago to save their $ & make it more difficult for us to maintain our Broncos.
As an example, here is Ford Motorcraft's buyers guide info for a ""Motorcraft basic pn":
"12A646 is a relay.EEC power, mostly found under the hood next to the fuel pump relay on EFI vehicles. .
RELAY, ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROL (ASSEMB
DY-865 [Universal Relay] 2 Bbl.; E1VB-12A646AA,E3AF-12A646B1A,E3UF-12A6461A1,A2A, B1A,,B2A,E3TF-12A646A1A,A2A,B1A,B2A
and from the Buyers Guide:
Part No.: DY-865
Manufacturer: MOTORCRAFT
Part Type: ELEC ENG CONT ASSY RELAY
Total No. of Vehicles: 275
FORD (202) 1983-1994
AEROSTAR (9) 1986-1992
1992 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U
1991 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U
1990 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U
1989 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U
1988 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U
1987 L4-140ci 2.3L F/I Vin A
1987 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U
1986 L4-140ci 2.3L F/I Vin A
1986 V6-183ci 3.0L F/I Vin U
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So brakes have been bleed. put two 32oz bottles through it. why not right?
The brake is easy to push down with consistent pressure.
It feels too easy for me to push down and also I feel as if it travels too far.
I may be unfamiliar with how the brake should feel.
I also would like to get the tool to bleed the ABS but not really sure what to get.
it has a jumpy idle.
when I put the timing light on it the timing mark jumps around about 5-10 degrees Retard and advance.
my next question is am I safe to put full synthetic in it? not sure what the previous owner used. 184,000 miles on the little 5.0.
any help on these questions would be great.
 

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If it is not a Bronco, it's just not worth driving.....
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it has a jumpy idle.
when I put the timing light on it the timing mark jumps around about 5-10 degrees Retard and advance.
my next question is am I safe to put full synthetic in it? not sure what the previous owner used. 184,000 miles on the little 5.0.
In regards to the jumpy idle and timing light jumping around, it sounds like you are in the same shape I am in.
I went to set my timing on my Bronco with 220k miles on it and it jumps around too. I havent pulled anything apart yet to check, but I suspect for the both of us that we have slop in our timing chains. That means a new set of timing gears and chain to complete the fix.

This is considering your distributor was tight when you went to time it and nothing else was loose causing the jumpy timing.

I am going to let mine ride until I am ready to pop off the timing chain cover and oil pan to replace a leaky gasket.


.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Welcome!

Yes, full synthetic is fine

When adjusting the timing, are you doing so with the SPOUT connector unplugged?
 

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Yes, full synthetic is fine
I was considering switching to full synth. for my '95 XLT with 169K miles on it. The truck does not leak presently but I've had friends advise not to switch to synthetic or it will. I'm presently running Castrol High Mileage 5W-30 and was considering switching to the same weight Mobil 1.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I would really like to run full synthetic.
I guess if it starts leaking then I just start replacing.
gives me an excuse to upgrade components I suppose
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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I was considering switching to full synth. for my '95 XLT with 169K miles on it. The truck does not leak presently but I've had friends advise not to switch to synthetic or it will. I'm presently running Castrol High Mileage 5W-30 and was considering switching to the same weight Mobil 1.
That is a wife's tale. In fact it's even fine to mix synthetic and conventional at the same time.

There's zero scientific evidence that points to synthetic causing leaks in a high mile engine. I've swapped engines to synthetic at 100k, 150k, 180k, and an unknown milage .040 overbored 300. Never an issue
 

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Discussion Starter #12
10w30 Valvoline high mileage Synthetic has been purchased will be doing it tomorrow.

I put 75W140 in the rear end

Cap,rotor,plugs and wires installed. I was having a bouncy engine at stop lights so figured a tune up was in order. Come to find out the firing order wasn't even right. No idea how it was running.. BUT let me tell you it's a night and day difference now.

Check engine like came on with some EGR codes. I will drive it for a while and see if it irons itself out. Check engine light went out after I ran the code reader. Ghosts maybe?

Also the timing mark doesn't bounce around anymore. I'm assuming the incorrect Jerry rigged firing order had something to do with that.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Also. Can anyone recognize this plug? It was not connected to anything. I would like to know what it goes to.
That looks like the SPOUT connector, without a SPOUT in it! :shocked

Not wise to do any adjustments before getting one of those. It controls SPark OUTput somehow and you're supposed to remove it to adjust timing, then put it back in. I happen to have a couple spares if that is indeed what it is
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My spout was on my driver side fender

So there are two of these spout connectors?

If so making a temporary jumper would be fine until I get one right?
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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12,375 Posts
My spout was on my driver side fender

So there are two of these spout connectors?

If so making a temporary jumper would be fine until I get one right?
No, just one SPOUT. That sure looks like one though. Are you 100% positive that the other thing is the SPOUT?

I wouldn't jump it without knowing what it is.
@miesk5 should be able to help
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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12,375 Posts
Consider my suggestion null and void then. My 94 SPOUT was farther out from the fender.
 

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Yo cbain,
Spout Location pic; in attachment; "..the light gray thing in the red circle. That thing above it is the cruise control servo. It's in the rear driverside corner of the engine compartment. Just unlatch the latches, pull the gray tab out of the connector, and put it somewhere safe."
by sewiv

Ford cites the wires are Pink, but my vision is way off.
 

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A couple of suggestions for you.....

Synthetic works fine, but it will typically leak easier than conventional oil. High Mileage is fine, it just has more detergent in it.

As far as your jumpy Idle goes, there are many things you can do, and may want to do just because its not a bad idea to do them anyway considering the age of the vehicle.

You can replace the sensors, Air Temp, water temp, MAP, TPS, just make sure they are all Motorcraft only. Dont use any other brand of sensor anywhere in the bronco.

One thing I almost always find on high mileage fords is alot of sludge build up. Its quite a bit of work to clean up, but it can be done in a weekend if you are prepared.
Parts you will need are, PCV valve, PCV hose, Test Tube Brushes with longish metal handles with a loop on the end (amazon), lots of Brake Kleen, Rags., Injector cleaner.
Go to a junk yard and find a injector harness plug and pigtail off a junk car. Get one with the same connector so 92-96 windsor powered anything will be a good donor.


You will also need 1 special Tool. The center bolt on the upper intake requires a Torx Driver bit for that fastener. I can recall what number it is but maybe someone will chime in on that. Find yourself a Fastenal store. Go there and get a LONG(8"-12") magnetic bit holder for a drill, then get the appropriate size Torx bit to fit the extension. Use that on your drill to remove the center bolt. A Standard Socket wont clear the access so you need one of those to get it.

So now you have all the tools, remove the intake tubing, throttle body, you will need a new throttle body and upper intake gasket. Once that is out of the way, remove the upper intake bolts and the center Torx bolt and remove the upper intake. Make sure to unbolt the hold down on the passenger side with the ground strap on it. Mark and remove the vacuum hoses from the vacuum hose tree. If you have stuff connected to the back of the intake by the firewall, mark all that and remove it. Now the upper intake should come off.

Now using a hose or a pressure washer, clean all the inside and outside as best you can. Once its fairly clean, now use some long handled metal bristle brushes from Harbor Freight and lots of brake kleen to clean all the runners till they are as clean as you can make them. Do the same down inside the throttle body openings.

Next, remove the fitting for the PCV valve located here....



Now take the long handled Test Tube brush and cut the loop end off. Mount the brush in your drill, spray copious amounts of brake kleen down the port in the upper intake, then drive the brush down into the hole with the drill on high. WOrk it as far down the passage as possible while spraying more brake kleen down the hole. Remove and spray down the brush and repeat till it comes out about as clean as it went in. Do the same thing with the port for the vacuum tree.

If you want to be especially thorough, you can also remove the passenger side valve cover and clean out the inside, especially under the pocket where the PCV valve connects.



Next thing, while you have the upper intake off, you have unprecedented access to many other things you can clean. You can take this opportunity to replace all of the hard plastic vacuum lines. These things are the source of many many problems and it is best to just go ahead and replace them. I recommend using silicone tubing. 4mm ID will replace all the hard plastic lines. You dont have to use the rubber elbows when using this tubing so you can toss those. You can get the tubing here...
Silicone Boost Vacuum Hose
read this thread on the subject,
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/23-technical-write-ups/192382-replace-plastic-vacuum-hoses-rubber.html

About 25' should be enough to replace every hard plastic line. Just run the tubing from one thing to another one at a time following the instructions in the thread. SHould take about 2 hours or less.

Next thing you can do is to clean the fuel injectors. This is a bit more involved and will take a minimum of 24 hours. You can get an injector rebuild kit from ebay for about $20.
If you follow this thread you can get them working back to new again.
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/23-technical-write-ups/219027-ford-ev1-injector-cleaning-re-build.html

The trick to getting the screen out is to use nuts and a drywall screw. Big nut toward the injector, and smaller spacer nuts.


Put it on the injector just like this. then screw it in. This will eject the dirty old screen.






Now you need a can of B12 Chemtool injector cleaner. Soak the injectors a minimum of 24 hours. It will get very nasty. You can periodically shake the container to agitate them to get the stuff moving thru the injectors.


After the soak, Get your injector harness plug and connect it to the injector. Rig up a 12 volt power source of some kind, drill battery, bunch of flashlight batteries, ect. anyway you can get 12v to it.
Then connect the harness to the injector, connect the battery, this will open the injector. Now spray brake kleen thru the injector filling it up. Using an air compressor blow gun with a rubber tip, set at 40 psi no more no less, blow the brake kleen thru the injector. Do this numerous times. It should produce a dense MIST not streams. Streams indicates its still clogged, mist is what you want. Once they are all done up to this point, put the new screen in and the pintle cap and O rings. They are now ready to re-install.

Next up is your IAC Valve. Replace it. Yes you can try to clean it, but dont. Just get a new one.

While your at it, replace the TPS Sensor on the bottom of the throttle body.
Then clean all of the passages from the IAC port into the throttle body and clean the back side of the butterflys and throttle body thoroughly using THrottle body cleaner.


NOTE:
If your PCV Valve dumps into the rear of the upper intake, you will need to relocate it to the position shown in the picture above. You can either drill and tap it, or use my preferred method of finding on in the junk yard from a 93 up F series and using that upper intake.
Failure to relocate the PCV return line could result in premature ring damage of cylinder #8.
 
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