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1992, Ford Bronco, XLT, 302 5.0, E4OD, Rhino line
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1992 ford bronco xlt rhino line, completely serviced and all, bought from a very bad owner, they did a lot of damage to it, and supposedly “rebuilt” engine and transmission. The engine is very strong but not to long ago I was going to my grandpas house to walk his dogs and on my way to leave his house I put the truck into reverse . It acted like it was in drive and continued to jolt forward then put into neutra and it did the same thing, I had to shut the truck off in Neutral for it to roll, so as I pushed it I ran and hoped in and pushed on the brakes, I was able to turn it on and throw it into drive and take it to the nearest shop. I was told by a expert mechanic that I needed to buy or get a rebuild and it’d cost $3000 so I took it upon myself to rebuild the transmission on my own because I’m 17 and enjoy tinkering on trucks. The transmission was rebuilt and Looked over numerous times to make sure everything was perfect. I have brand new cooler lines, pretty much brand new starter, ext housing was cleaned, transmission spun smooth before install, parking mechanic on rear of transmission worked perfect, bought brand new driveshafts, bolts and all. Gear box nor torque converter was replaced. Gear box wasn’t a issue before so didn’t think it’d be a problem, and torque convert was supposedly new when they last “rebuilt” it so I used the same torque converter. Torque converter went on trans fine spun nice too. Anyways after everything was installed I went to start up the truck. Thought everything was fine and started to shift through gears and there was no movement what so ever no reverse or drive, no engagement at all. Drive shafts had no movement, checked emergency brake and everything nothing was keeping it from moving. Then I noticed the drain plug on the side of the trans wasn’t in and it poured like a gallon and a half out. Then I shut it off real fast plugged it and put more fluid in. After putting more in thinking that was the problem, I went back and turned the truck on again constantly heating it up and checking fluid. I noticed the truck would over heat very bad. After a couple times of sitting there swapping through gears with no movement we then heard noise. It was a scratching sound in 2nd and 1st gear. We then went to put it in park and it would not go and made a terrible grinding noise as if the transmission was spinning really fast even though we weren’t moving. Drive shafts still not spinning. We then continually have to shut the truck off in neutral and shift it into park while it’s off. It starts up just fine in park after that process. I threw it in neutral and pushed it into the yard to sit so we can have the garage open for other things. Im at a loss of what is going on, it has become a money pit but I love my bronco and would love to save it. Have spent hours and numerous paychecks to save it. Haven’t been able to get an answer or help so I am hoping someone may know a solution to this problem.
 

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10,473 Posts
Grinding noise while spinning means the trans is sending output to the output shaft. However the transfer case isn't taking that input from the trans and producing output.

Focus on transfer case. Is it in neutral?
 

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Registered
1992, Ford Bronco, XLT, 302 5.0, E4OD, Rhino line
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah at least from my knowledge the lights will come on for 4H and 4L and from what I can see from underneath it is in neutral. There’s a circle dial on back of transfer case showing arrows for 2H,4H,N,and 4L. It’s as if I can move it but I’m unsure how there’s no nob or anything just the linkage on the side going to the linkage on the transmission going up to the floorboard. But I don’t see any other way to put it into those gears manually. It’s a borg Warner transfer case.
 

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1992, Ford Bronco, XLT, 302 5.0, E4OD, Rhino line
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also I forgot to mention what my bronco has, I have a 302 5.0 an e4od automatic transmission, and a borgwarner gearbox/transfer case.
 

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1984 Bronco, 4.9L, C6, 9", 44 TTB, 3.54 Gears
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431 Posts
If your transfer case is in neutral, the truck won't move. Shift it into 2wd...or am I reading this wrong?

I assume you've checked all your linkage to make sure it's tight?

Also, I would always replace the torque converter when doing a rebuild. Extra security.
 

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Registered
1992, Ford Bronco, XLT, 302 5.0, E4OD, Rhino line
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If your transfer case is in neutral, the truck won't move. Shift it into 2wd...or am I reading this wrong?

I assume you've checked all your linkage to make sure it's tight?

Also, I would always replace the torque converter when doing a rebuild. Extra security.
Yeah I finally got it into 2H and it drove but it’s just like before no reverse still. I’m wondering why, I didn’t replace the electric shifting mechanism on the side of the transmission. I’m thinking about doing so I’ve heard it can cause it not to shift into gears sometimes. I drove it for about 20min in a circle and it seemed kinda weak. There became a slight scratching noise. But went away I’m thinking I might just need more fluid but I do have a small dripping leak coming out of the access hole below torque on the case. Hoping it’s just a gasket and I’m hoping I haven’t rebuilt the trans wrong I’ve went back and forth hundreds of times checking. Also I plan to get a torque converter I’m just trying to pin point problems so I don’t end up spending more then I have too.
 

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29,131 Posts
Yo Coleman,
Welcome!
E4OD Shift Control Linkage
"The transmission shift control cable transfers the transmission operating mode from the gearshift lever (7210) to the automatic transmission. The indicated transmission position on the steering gear sector shaft (3575) is transferred to a shift lever on the bottom of the steering column. On vehicles equipped with cable-operated shift systems, the indicated position of the gearshift lever is transferred to the automatic transmission through the transmission column shift selector tube (7212), then to the cable, and down to the manual control lever (7A256) at the automatic transmission."

Member @sackman9975 advises "...check the 2 torx screws under the column...
Put your head on the floorboard and look up while wiggling the shifter. If they're loose, you'll see it. Very common problem with 92-96. The ones circled. They come loose. If you wiggle your shifter, it will be very apparent if they need to be tightened.
167711


..."
Member fodder advised "it takes a T30 bit"
Member TexasAxMan advises "I highly recommend dropping the column and replacing the shift tube bushings. One of mine was pretty bad but after replacement (less than an hour) there is NO slop in the shifter."

  • Shift Control Linkage Binding, Out of Proper Gear Relationship
  • Damaged ignition/shifter interlock cable.
  • Loose ignition/shifter interlock cable.
  • Loose retainer bracket.
  • Shift linkage misadjusted.
,
E4OD Shift Cable Adjustment & Indicator Cable Adjustment in 92-96
"CAUTION: Under no circumstances should the cable be adjusted in any position other than D (drive) for the C6 transmission (7003) or (D) (overdrive) for the E4OD transmission.
1. From inside the vehicle, place the transmission range selector lever in the DRIVE position (C6) or the OVERDRIVE position (4R70W and E4OD). Hang an improvised three-pound weight (#1) on the transmission range selector lever (#2).
2. Raise vehicle on a hoist and position suitable safety stands under vehicle.
3. Remove the shift cable (#5) from the transmission lever ball stud.
4. Pull down the lock tab on the shift cable body.
5. Position the transmission range selector lever (#2) in the DRIVE position (C6) or the OVERDRIVE position (E4OD). This is three detents from the front-most lever position with the first position counting as one.
6. Connect the cable end fitting to the transmission lever ball stud.
7. Push up on the lock tab to lock the cable in the correctly adjusted position.
8. Remove safety stands and lower vehicle from hoist. Remove the three-pound weight from the transmission range selector lever.
9. After making the adjustment, check for park engagement. Check the transmission range selector lever in all detent positions with the engine (6007) running to make sure correct detent/transmission actions. Readjust if necessary."

1356 Electric Shift Emergency Shifting; "... I'd thought I'd share some pics for those who may like to know what the t-case 12 volt shift motor does. Or is supposed to do in my case. Just for drill I removed the small motor. You'll only need a 3/8" ratchet wrench and a long 10 mm socket to remove all 6 bolts. Three of them are about 1 1/2" long and goe thru the top right circular head of the motor. The other three bolts are about 3/4" long. One bolts to the bottom flat tang of the motor case itself (ground?) and the other two hold the wire coupler harness in place on the t-case. As I suspected the triangular shaft inside of the t-case was pointing down to indicate 4 High. By merely jiggling the front drive shaft yoke a little bit with one hand, I could very easily move the triangular shaft with my other hand and get it into 2 High; it might be wise to keep the above mentioned ratchet and socket at the ready, as well as a pair of Channel Locks to rotate the shaft if it won't budge by hand..."
Source: by RickyB at FSB
⊙▪⊙
Here's the 1992 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ http://www.auto-brochures.com/makes/Ford/Bronco/Ford_US Bronco_1992.pdf

For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 posts required to view, due to scammers who preyed on our members ).

Register with VIN to see most Ford dealer maintenance/repairs done @ any dealership nation-wide @ Welcome to Ford Owner | Official Ford Owner Site

To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your Bronco info with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
Bronco info is now able to be put under your user name.
Click your profile button in the top right and go to account settings.


On that first page, named Account Details, scroll down to "Vehicle Info" and type in up to 100 characters.

Now you can simply enter your information in the text editor and click save.

Our Forum FAQs includes for example, How To Upload Images To Posts, How to Use Search and more tips!

See Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links) ... includes such as, "Tailgate Window repair & troublehooting".


➡ Try to participate and VOTE in our ongoing Full-Size of the Month Contest & lster in the year, Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
You will get ideas by those competing. Also see the prizes! They are awesome as compared to other sites' "contests"!

Al
 

·
Registered
1992, Ford Bronco, XLT, 302 5.0, E4OD, Rhino line
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yo Coleman,
Welcome!
E4OD Shift Control Linkage
"The transmission shift control cable transfers the transmission operating mode from the gearshift lever (7210) to the automatic transmission. The indicated transmission position on the steering gear sector shaft (3575) is transferred to a shift lever on the bottom of the steering column. On vehicles equipped with cable-operated shift systems, the indicated position of the gearshift lever is transferred to the automatic transmission through the transmission column shift selector tube (7212), then to the cable, and down to the manual control lever (7A256) at the automatic transmission."

Member @sackman9975 advises "...check the 2 torx screws under the column...
Put your head on the floorboard and look up while wiggling the shifter. If they're loose, you'll see it. Very common problem with 92-96. The ones circled. They come loose. If you wiggle your shifter, it will be very apparent if they need to be tightened.
View attachment 167711

..."
Member fodder advised "it takes a T30 bit"
Member TexasAxMan advises "I highly recommend dropping the column and replacing the shift tube bushings. One of mine was pretty bad but after replacement (less than an hour) there is NO slop in the shifter."

  • Shift Control Linkage Binding, Out of Proper Gear Relationship
  • Damaged ignition/shifter interlock cable.
  • Loose ignition/shifter interlock cable.
  • Loose retainer bracket.
  • Shift linkage misadjusted.
,
E4OD Shift Cable Adjustment & Indicator Cable Adjustment in 92-96
"CAUTION: Under no circumstances should the cable be adjusted in any position other than D (drive) for the C6 transmission (7003) or (D) (overdrive) for the E4OD transmission.
1. From inside the vehicle, place the transmission range selector lever in the DRIVE position (C6) or the OVERDRIVE position (4R70W and E4OD). Hang an improvised three-pound weight (#1) on the transmission range selector lever (#2).
2. Raise vehicle on a hoist and position suitable safety stands under vehicle.
3. Remove the shift cable (#5) from the transmission lever ball stud.
4. Pull down the lock tab on the shift cable body.
5. Position the transmission range selector lever (#2) in the DRIVE position (C6) or the OVERDRIVE position (E4OD). This is three detents from the front-most lever position with the first position counting as one.
6. Connect the cable end fitting to the transmission lever ball stud.
7. Push up on the lock tab to lock the cable in the correctly adjusted position.
8. Remove safety stands and lower vehicle from hoist. Remove the three-pound weight from the transmission range selector lever.
9. After making the adjustment, check for park engagement. Check the transmission range selector lever in all detent positions with the engine (6007) running to make sure correct detent/transmission actions. Readjust if necessary."

1356 Electric Shift Emergency Shifting; "... I'd thought I'd share some pics for those who may like to know what the t-case 12 volt shift motor does. Or is supposed to do in my case. Just for drill I removed the small motor. You'll only need a 3/8" ratchet wrench and a long 10 mm socket to remove all 6 bolts. Three of them are about 1 1/2" long and goe thru the top right circular head of the motor. The other three bolts are about 3/4" long. One bolts to the bottom flat tang of the motor case itself (ground?) and the other two hold the wire coupler harness in place on the t-case. As I suspected the triangular shaft inside of the t-case was pointing down to indicate 4 High. By merely jiggling the front drive shaft yoke a little bit with one hand, I could very easily move the triangular shaft with my other hand and get it into 2 High; it might be wise to keep the above mentioned ratchet and socket at the ready, as well as a pair of Channel Locks to rotate the shaft if it won't budge by hand..."
Source: by RickyB at FSB
⊙▪⊙
Here's the 1992 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ http://www.auto-brochures.com/makes/Ford/Bronco/Ford_US Bronco_1992.pdf

For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 posts required to view, due to scammers who preyed on our members ).

Register with VIN to see most Ford dealer maintenance/repairs done @ any dealership nation-wide @ Welcome to Ford Owner | Official Ford Owner Site

To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your Bronco info with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
Bronco info is now able to be put under your user name.
Click your profile button in the top right and go to account settings.


On that first page, named Account Details, scroll down to "Vehicle Info" and type in up to 100 characters.

Now you can simply enter your information in the text editor and click save.

Our Forum FAQs includes for example, How To Upload Images To Posts, How to Use Search and more tips!

See Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links) ... includes such as, "Tailgate Window repair & troublehooting".


➡ Try to participate and VOTE in our ongoing Full-Size of the Month Contest & lster in the year, Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
You will get ideas by those competing. Also see the prizes! They are awesome as compared to other sites' "contests"!

Al
Thank you, I have some pictures I just took maybe to help, but I just replaced the driveshaft Column and I made sure to tighten those I will recheck that but it goes into gear sometimes it will die down as if it goes into gear but sometimes it revs up.
 

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1992, Ford Bronco, XLT, 302 5.0, E4OD, Rhino line
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I went and checked torque bolts they were fine. Turned truck over still no reverse there was no play in the cable and I can feel each gear engage just no movement with reverse and higher rev when in gear.
 

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1992, Ford Bronco, XLT, 302 5.0, E4OD, Rhino line
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I got to say, Atta Boy! For a 17 year old to take on a transmission rebuild...you will figure this out.
Thank you was a long process but it’s hobby I’ve taken to. It’s just something I enjoy.
 

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Registered
1992, Ford Bronco, XLT, 302 5.0, E4OD, Rhino line
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah it can roll forward in drive, it’s drivable, I have park, neutral, drive, 2nd, and 1st but no reverse.
I’m thinking I lost reverse right before finding that my transfer case wasn’t in gear. Before finding that solution my dad wanted to help and got into the truck he wasn’t quite sure what he was doing and he went to put it into park and it made a terrible grinding noise and then cause a small drip from under the torque converter drain access hole on the case. I think I have no reverse do to loss of pressure or bad seal. I think when he tried to put it in park while it was spinning without engagement from the gear box all that output went to the torque converter seal or pump gasket, caused it to either fail or break and make a small leak but either way I’m loosing fluid and pressure and the reverse is the very first gear from park. Also upon driving it today one it was loud because exhaust is off at the moment, was in the way. And second the shift was strong into drive and seemed Kinda weak when getting acceleration just got loud, but maybe I just didn’t want to push on the gas so much from the noise being so loud as is and trying to go smooth on first drive, I’m thinking about draining and looking at valve bodies again and maybe check balls and stuff even though I think it’s correct. Won’t hurt it if I have to pull it out to fix seals. I have extra seals anyways. Also planning on draining and refilling transfer case just to start fresh with everything.
 

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29,131 Posts
Yo Coleman,
Engagement Concern: No Reverse Only
Possible Component​
Reference/Action​
202 — ELECTRICAL ROUTINE
  • No Electrical Concerns
302 — HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL ROUTINE
Fluid
  • Improper level
  • Adjust fluid to proper level.
  • Condition
  • Inspect per instructions under Fluid Condition Check.
Shift Linkage (Internal/External) or Cable
  • Damaged or misadjusted
  • Inspect and service as required. Verify linkage adjustment as outlined. After servicing linkage, verify that the Transmission Range (TR) sensor is properly adjusted. Refer to In-Vehicle Service in this section.
Improper Pressures
  • Low line pressure
  • Check pressure at line pressure tap. Perform Line Pressure and Stall Speed Tests. Refer to Pressure Chart No. 401 for specifications. If pressures are low, check the following possible components: Pump inlet filter and seal assembly, main control, pump assembly, reverse clutch assembly, coast clutch assembly, direct clutch assembly.
Filter Assembly and Seal
  • Plugged, damaged or seal missing
  • Inspect filter assembly and seal for damage. Service as required.
Main Controls
  • Bolts not tightened to specification
  • Retighten bolts to specification.
  • Gaskets damaged
  • Inspect for damage and replace.
  • Valve springs, main control valve body, direct clutch accumulator valve damaged, stuck, missing, or misassembled
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.
  • Reinforcing plate improperly installed; bolts not torqued to specification
  • Inspect for proper installation. Retighten bolts to specification.
Coast Clutch Assembly
  • Assembly
  • Air check clutch assembly as outlined in this section.
  • Piston seals or piston damaged
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.
  • Stator support seals damaged
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.
Direct Clutch Assembly
NOTE: Only if 3rd gear also is inoperative​
  • Assembly
  • Air check clutch assembly as outlined in this section.
  • Stator support seals damaged
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.
  • Seals or piston damaged
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.
  • Clutch plates burnt, missing
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.
  • Check ball damaged, missing
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.
  • Center support damaged or holes blocked
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.
  • Center support hub damaged
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.
Forward Planet Assembly
  • Assembly damaged
  • Determine source of damage. Service as required.
Reverse Clutch Assembly
  • Assembly
  • Air check clutch assembly as outlined in this section.
  • Seals or piston damaged
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.
  • Piston bore damaged
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.
  • Friction elements damaged, worn; missing plates
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.
  • Feed hole damaged, plugged, missing
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.
Reverse Planet Assembly
  • Assembly damaged
  • Determine source of damage. Service as required.
Reverse Ring Gear
  • Gears/lugs to reverse carrier damaged
  • Determine source of damage. Service as required.
By Ford
 

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Registered
1992, Ford Bronco, XLT, 302 5.0, E4OD, Rhino line
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Alright well….. I’m back a year later still not much progress. I tossed the rebuilt transmission thinking something was wrong and was gonna cost me more to fix it twice, so I bought a new monster transmission, a super heavy duty one. And so I had my buddy and my brother help install it with me and it ended up not doing anything and this time I remembered to engage the transfer case while swapping through gears, still nothing. So upon lifting the transmission and lining it up the bell housing it just wouldn’t go all the way flush, and I just want lost as to why it wouldn’t. My brother and friend suggested well you’re close enough to put bolts in and just pull it to it with the bolts I told them you should never pull something together with bolts like that, and that there was a reason it wouldn’t sit flush, my friend continued to kick the back of the transmission thinking it would go and after not understanding why we all agreed to just pull it together with bolts. And maybe after 5 minutes of bolting it I realized I hadn’t lined up the torque converter bolts to the flywheel upon that I had immediately had a face palm moment and then had instant worry for destroying the pump. Which I think I have other assumptions besides the pump, and that’s why I’m posting again to see if I can get answers. So after just pushing the transmission back a slight bit and lining up the torque converter we bolted everything up no problem, driveshaft and all. Next connected all electrical wires and proceeded with fluid. Online it calls for 12-18 quarts and so I bought a 18.7 quart bucket and emptied transfer case fluid and refilled fresh and went to use the rest to fill transmission and upon filling it over flowed and so I assume that 18 quarts might be for diesel trans. But next step was starting. So after is sat there a electric problem started and the battery constantly died. We jumped it off and it started up strong as always, now it was shifting time. Gear box was in 2H and I moved on to reverse there was nothing, and so on for everything else. Major disappointment especially for the time and money spent. We made a call to my friends mechanic uncle which had great advice. He thinks the pump is broke after are torque converter incident and he said I can check by taking a trans line off before the cooler and seeing if there is any flow. Which there is none and furthers answer the pump is out. But when I look up broken pumps there isn’t anything for parts it’s just upgrade kits and gears. Which I don’t think is broken he said something about the ears being broken but the e4od doesn’t have ears it’s flat sides on the gear, and the torque converter was seated all the way before installing. So maybe a bushing? But I also saw that what also causes no shifting is the solenoid pack. Which I had to redo the whole wiring harness up from the fuse box all the way to the transmission and gear box. I’m hoping maybe somethings wrong with wiring instead of a broken pump or something else that would require me to take it back out. But if the answer to this problem is the pump I’ll take it out and fix it just wanted a double check. I’m thinking instead of the pump, there might just be an electrical issue to the solenoid pack and possibly neutral safety switch cause no shift and no electrical signal to pump fluid causing no fluid flow out of cooler lines. Unless I also disconnected a wrong transmission cooler line and saw no fluid because I picked the wrong one lol. Just looking for help and possible answers. Needing it done so I can sell it and get some money out of the money pit.
 

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1992, Ford Bronco, XLT, 302 5.0, E4OD, Rhino line
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Also there was no whining or grinding noises or shaking or anything. Just the sound of the truck running.
 

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29,131 Posts
Yo Coleman
Electrical issues:
E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) is a LED with an overdrive on/off switch at end of the Transmission shifter stalk; flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
The transmission control switch is a momentary contact switch. When the switch is pressed, a signal is sent to the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650). The powertrain control module then energizes the transmission control indicator lamp and the coast clutch solenoid, applying the coast clutch to provide engine braking and cancels fourth gear operation; does it cause the lamp to glow?
The TCIL indicates overdrive cancel mode activated (lamp on), electronic pressure control circuit shorted or monitored sensor failure (lamp flashing).

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
A helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.
Or ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will loan you an OBD1 CODE TESTER with a refundable security deposit
Or purchase a coder reader such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.

MECHANICAL ISSUES:
SEE 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual, partial @ 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
GO TO Section 07-01A:
Transmission, Automatic, E4OD
Disassembly/Reassembly of Subassemblies
scroll down to Pump Assembly

CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Torque Converter
When internal wear or damage has occurred in the transmission, metal particles, clutch plate material, or band material may have been carried into the torque converter (7902) and transmission fluid cooler (7A095). These contaminants are a major cause of recurring transmission troubles and MUST be removed from the system before the transmission is put back into service.

Whenever a transmission has been disassembled to replace worn or damaged parts or because the valve body valves stick repeatedly from foreign material, the torque converter, transmission fluid cooler and transmission fluid cooler tubes and hoses MUST be cleaned by using a mechanically agitated cleaner, such as Rotunda Torque Converter/Oil Cooler Cleaner 014-00028 or equivalent.
NOTE: Mineral spirits used to clean the torque converter must be fresh, non-chlorinated and non-halogenated.
Flush the torque converter of the remaining solvent using this procedure.
  1. Thoroughly drain remaining solvent through the drain plug.
  1. Add 1.9L (2.0 U.S. quarts) of clean transmission fluid to the converter. Agitate by hand.
  1. Thoroughly drain solution through the drain plug.
Awaiting others for other tips for you.
 
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