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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I was going to post the restoration/build thread in the BroncoSpeed forum, but the new Restore/Rebuild subforum came into being, and this is a more appropriate place. Some background on my truck, before I start the thread:

I've owned my 1992 Bronco 5.0 XLT since it was new. I had it when I first lived in Long Island, then in the heart of NYC during my bachelor days, and now for the past ten years in upper Westchester with the family. It's led a mostly charmed life, romping on beaches in the Hamptons, driving over sidewalks and snowbanks in the city while avoiding the yellow dunes of death (taxis), and making the occasional trip to the trails.

While it has generally served me well and faithfully (it's been getting fatter, smellier, slower and rustier), I've always had a thing for prerunner style trucks, so I decided that I would give the old Beast another lease on life, and make her look young and run fast again, just like a good truck should.

Upgrades Planned/in Progress:

Chassis
  • Deaver 4" leaf springs in the back to replace the 4" BDS Lift Blocks
  • Camburg shackles to replace the OEM shackles in the rear
  • Deaver 5.5" coil spring in the front to replace the BDS 4" coils
  • Bilstein 5150 Shocks front and rear
  • Gears changed from stock 3.55's to 4.88's
  • Rear disc-brake conversion
  • New 35x12.50R15 tires to replace existing 33's
  • Almost all new hardware, fasteners and lines to be stainless steel
  • New PLASTIC tank (no more rust!) - if you want my old one (inside is perfect) you can have it!
Engine
  • GT-40X Heads Ported, Polished & Comp Valve Job
  • Ford Racing Double Roller Timing Chain
  • Stainless Steel ARP Head Bolts
  • Ford Racing Windage Tray
  • Ford Racing Motorsport Valve Covers
  • New Silicone Hose kit from Goodyear (blue!)
  • A WORKING Smog Pump (the old one was seized, and I never knew it)
  • New 18" Aluminum Mechanical Fan
  • New stainless braided vacuum hoses, etc..
And everything that's been broken or can't be refreshed in a solid manner is being replaced with new.

Here are a couple of pics of the old Beast in her original unmodified state:





Here are a few after I put in a 4" BDS lift, Warn winch/bumper and 33" Wheels & Tires (in 2002)


please excuse/ignore my FAT EX-brother in law...













And now, here's are pictures of the truck just before I started her transformation (those are the kid's name on the fenders/quarters temporarily - they got a big kick out me spraying them on):





At this point in time (September 22, 2009) the truck is fully disassembled into 10,000 pieces and most of those parts have been either refreshed/repainted or have been replaced with new pieces or upgrades, and it's almost ready to put back together. I've taken pictures of everything along the way, and I'll add posts with each major step.

Sy
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Stage 1 - Stripping Her Down

As you'll see in the pictures, everything under the body was covered in surface rust. At the beginning of the restoration (late July 2009?), I had decided to wire brush and/or sand everything I could get to without taking the body off, and paint it all with a good 2 part epoxy paint.

You'll also see some of the prior completed work:

1. Interior/cab floor rust repaired and rhino lined by body shop.
2. I hand-sanded and polished the aluminum wheels which had become insanely oxidized (see last couple of pics in the first post).
3. New Prerunner bumpers (with light bars and winch mount) fabbed by McNeil Racing, and subsequently powdercoated a color that came out like s**t. Not sure what to change them to..
4. Fiberglass fenders and quarters by McNeil Racing, semi-final mounted and unfinished.
5. New vinyl Corbeau Moab seats in the front. To save $180 on new seat brackets, I spent hours and hours restoring the old brackets and modifying them to be able to mount the new seats. It wasn't worth it. :banghead
6. Restored and re-covered rear seat using Corbeau matching vinyl.

The rusty subframes behind where the front fenders would usually be are the fabbed up frames to support the accessories and brackets that the steel fenders would normally hold. That rust is from less than a year of sitting in New York weather, the result of having not painted the metal :banghead .

So right at the beginning of this August (2009) I started the work by myself, and a couple of my guys that occasionally helped:

































 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
SOOOO, after having stripped all of that stuff down, and having spent hours and hours de-greasing, wire brushing and sanding the frame and suspension, etc... I realized that we were doing a half-as*ed job! There was just no way to get to all of the rust (I HATE RUST) efficiently or effectively, and if I wanted to do the job right the frame had to come off and everything had to get sandblasted.

So off came the body..

































































 

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Discussion Starter #4
BTW - when it's done, the truck is being painted a dark metallic gray (virtually black), with a slight red tint. I already bought the paint ($$$$!!! Holy crap!) with the intention of painting myself, but I've since thrown that idea out the window..

Next stages of work (will post the pictures later today):

1. Pulling the engine (complete)
2. Pulling all suspension (complete)
3. Sandblasting the frame (complete)
4. Painting the frame (complete)
5. Painting the suspension (in progress)
6. Upgrading/painting the engine/tranny (in progress)
 

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Wrenching for a Livin'
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Taking the body off is a pain in the neck ain't it?
 

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Looks like you are off to a good start. I like the way you removed the body - pretty effective without a lift. I'll have to remember that with the cinder blocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Taking the body off is a pain in the neck ain't it?
It was almost a complete disaster. The body almost fell on me twice! My guys came around just in time and held it up till I could secure it. :doh0715:

Looks like you are off to a good start. I like the way you removed the body - pretty effective without a lift. I'll have to remember that with the cinder blocks.
Cinder blocks work well, but DON'T use the square 8"x8" blocks like I have in the pictures. It's too unstable (like me). Go with the bigger 10"x16" blocks, they're only $3 or so each at Home Depot.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sandblasting / Painting the Frame & Suspension Bits

Sandblasting didn't go as well as I hoped, as everything flash-rusted within a couple of hours of blasting. :madder That's New York for ya. Hopefully the quality of the paint (DuPont Corlar 2-Part Industrial Epoxy - Data Sheet PDF here) will keep it at bay for a long time. Also, amazing to see how aggressively the rust ate away at the steel and left pits, which I'm not smoothing.





































I decided to hand-sand one of the radius arms, and give the other to the sand-blaster to see what the end result would be. Here's the one I sanded:



 

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Discussion Starter #10
Upgrades

I should have done this from the beginning, but here's the list of upgrades planned/in progress. I also edited it into the first post in the thread:

Upgrades Planned/in Progress:

Chassis
  • Deaver 4" leaf springs in the back to replace the 4" BDS Lift Blocks
  • Camburg shackles to replace the OEM shackles in the rear
  • Deaver 5.5" coil spring in the front to replace the BDS 4" coils
  • Bilstein 5150 Shocks front and rear
  • Gears changed from stock 3.55's to 4.88's
  • Rear disc-brake conversion
  • New 35x12.50R15 tires to replace existing 33's (Toyo Open Country M/T's or Pro Comp Extreme A/T's ?)
  • Almost all new hardware, fasteners and lines to be stainless steel
  • New PLASTIC tank (no more rust!) - if you want my old one (inside is perfect) you can have it!
Engine
  • Existing GT-40X Heads now Ported, Polished & Comp Valve Job
  • Ford Racing Double Roller Timing Chain
  • Stainless Steel ARP Head Bolts
  • Ford Racing Windage Tray
  • Ford Racing Motorsport Valve Covers
  • New Silicone Hose kit from Goodyear (blue!)
  • A WORKING Smog Pump (the old one was seized, and I never knew it)
  • New 18" Aluminum Mechanical Fan
  • New stainless braided vacuum hoses, etc..
And everything that's been broken or can't be refreshed in a solid manner is being replaced with new.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Did you have any repairs on the tub?
Yes, when I stripped the interior out a couple of years ago to rhino line it, I found a bunch of heavy rust, thin metal and pin holes in the tub in the area of the rear passenger foot wells. I had them cut out, and they welded in new metal. I sanded the entire interior of the tub down to the metal and POR-15'd it, and then had it rhino lined with Speed-Liner (?). We didn't focus on the underside of the tub at the time.

Looking at the underside of the tub now with the frame off, there is a bunch of surface rust, but no real damage that can't be handled with a wire wheel or sander. I'll probably finish it off with the DuPont Corlar I used on the frame.
 

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It was almost a complete disaster. The body almost fell on me twice! My guys came around just in time and held it up till I could secure it. :doh0715:



Cinder blocks work well, but DON'T use the square 8"x8" blocks like I have in the pictures. It's too unstable (like me). Go with the bigger 10"x16" blocks, they're only $3 or so each at Home Depot.
I thought i was the only master block stacker on FSB :histerica

Seriously thou its no fun with cinder blocks. we finally found that 2 engine hoists works the best.


oh and i didn't know the spindles would unbolt on an 8.8....i assumed they were welded on
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I thought i was the only master block stacker on FSB :histerica

Seriously thou its no fun with cinder blocks. we finally found that 2 engine hoists works the best.


oh and i didn't know the spindles would unbolt on an 8.8....i assumed they were welded on
Well I survived, so now I'm the master! :rockon ;)

The spindles are pressed on, or so I found out after spending 2 hours trying to hammer the s**t of them out (as per the Haynes manual).
 

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bah....i don't know what im talking about on the spindle....an 8.8 isn't a full float...i guess your talking about the front spindles thou.

I've got full floats on the brain.

Also...at least you didn't let the body hit the ground...mine did and took out about 10 blocks....pulverised them....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
bah....i don't know what im talking about on the spindle....an 8.8 isn't a full float...i guess your talking about the front spindles thou.

I've got full floats on the brain.

Also...at least you didn't let the body hit the ground...mine did and took out about 10 blocks....pulverised them....
yikes, my brain is mush... you did say 8.8, and I guess I just friggin spaced out.. time to sleep!
 

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I have a 1992 Ford Bronco and i would like to know if there is any crate engines that i can buy from jegs or summit or edelbrock that would push 400 - 450 hp. Fully assembled. i have no knowledge of engine building. I have a E40d Tranny mated to a Ford 5.0L V-8 EFI.
 

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I have a 1992 Ford Bronco and i would like to know if there is any crate engines that i can buy from jegs or summit or edelbrock that would push 400 - 450 hp. Fully assembled. i have no knowledge of engine building. I have a E40d Tranny mated to a Ford 5.0L V-8 EFI.
Just curious what you were thinking when you posted this in this thread? First your not in the correct forum section, second please spend some time researching and save yourself from being harassed about not searching. What you are doing is considered hi-jacking a thread and is frowned upon.

And to keep this on topic, Sydude, you are doing a great job on the bronco, it is great to see so many pics, keep them coming! I hope to see what you do with your electrical and plumbing on the frame to see how nice it will come out. I completely understand the half assed feeling of just grinding/painting the frame with the body on, I just wish I had the room you have to do it!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
And to keep this on topic, Sydude, you are doing a great job on the bronco, it is great to see so many pics, keep them coming! I hope to see what you do with your electrical and plumbing on the frame to see how nice it will come out. I completely understand the half assed feeling of just grinding/painting the frame with the body on, I just wish I had the room you have to do it!
Thanks! Really appreciate it. I don't have the room in my garage either, but my in-laws were kind enough to let me use their carport/garage for a 'small restoration project that was going to take a few weeks". Little did they know what was in store for them..! I think they're sorry they said yes!

I haven't decided what to do in regards to how to fasten/mount all of the new plumbing/redone wiring harnesses. I killed all of the plastic tabs that were electrical taped onto the harnesses, as they were dirty and crappy looking. I'm going to start looking at stainless brackets that will bolt to the same holes where those plastic anchor thingies. Should be a nicer look.
 

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Wow, looks like a ton of work but it'll be worth it when it's all done and back together....great job Brother!

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 
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