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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I've got 1993 5.0 with I believe the e4od auto transmission. 170k miles (no maintenance lights on)
About a couple weeks after buying her it started having strong shifts around 2nd and 3rd gear, it felt like it jolted back. Which it had never done before, I had drove it multiple times before like in the test drive or the hour+ drive home and a couple times at home.
I left it without driving for about another week or two to research but couldn't find much. Then I tried test driving her again and it almost seemed like the shifts got even stronger and gave a harder pushback. The delay in the shift was also much more obvious, I could easy tell when it should've shifted.

I've checked the transmission fluid dipstick and the liquid itself, they're both fine. She doesn't overheat, drives fine. No maintenance lights on in the dash besides ebrake which doesn't seem to go away even after pulling brake release. I don't think that has anything to do with it.

Though I'm not very good at mechanics and new to ford. The only thing I've done after is replaced the Manual lever position sensor (mlps) but I have not rewired the wires for it. I just slotted it in and made sure it was in neutral.
I also did notice when shifting to drive from park also jolts the bronco just not as much. And changing gear to reverse or neutral does it just a small bit, maybe normal amount.

I've heard others online about doing diagnostic codes but I'm not sure how.
Any tips or thoughts are very much appreciated. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi, thanks for the reply. There is no light on on the shifter lever, overdrive is on, i went to go turn on the bronco to check real quick and it didn't flash at all having it on or off overdrive.
It doesn't have oversized tires, (31 x 10.50r15LT) and I dont think it's lifted either.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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4,617 Posts
31” tires usually aren’t considered oversized, true, but check your door jamb sticker for the factory tire size to be sure. Some Broncos came with 31s, but if it says 235/75R15 on the sticker, those are 29” and your PSOM calibration could be off a little, showing a slower mph than what would be correct. That could affect shift points on the E4OD since it uses electronic input to determine shift points.

I don’t think that is your only issue, if it is an issue at all, but it is probably worth checking so you at least can have the 100% correct shift points and correct speed reading. If it still shifts improperly, something else is the culprit.

There is a way to pull transmission codes, but I can’t remember it. Perhaps @miesk5 will be by to offer some wisdom.

Cheers, and welcome to the site.
 

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~*~*~*~*~*~*~
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10,368 Posts
What you're describing is most likely the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) giving off wide open throttle signals. You'll need to test it and most likely replace it. This is a part that I'd highly recommend replacing with Motorcraft only.
 

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In for learning what the problem could be. From my recent readings I'm wondering if it could be related to the VSS or would the ODBI give a code to indicate a problem with the VSS and/or would a defective VSS only show signs with the OP's symptoms along with erratic speeds on the speedometer?
 

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any KOEO or KOER codes?
 

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Yo MuffinStuffer,
WELCOME!
168909


Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader

Manual Lever Position Sensor Test w/ Connector Pin Diagram w/colors by member RLA @ https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fo..._2cb56e2ae312f5db2a43e732b5c9092d719e2c82.jpg

Shift Concerns: Harsh 2-3 Shift Only (Automatic)
Possible Component​
Reference/Action​
233 — ELECTRICAL ROUTINE
Powertrain Control System
  • Electrical inputs/outputs, vehicle wiring harnesses, powertrain control module
  • Run On-Board Diagnostics. Refer to Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Manual for diagnosis. Service as required.
  • This is the self test for codes
333 — HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL ROUTINE
Main Controls
  • Bolts not tightened to specification
  • Retighten bolts to specification.
  • Gaskets damaged
  • Inspect for damage and replace.
  • Direct clutch accumulator regulator valve, plungers, springs stuck, missing, damaged, misassembled
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.
  • Wrong parts used in rebuild
  • Verify that proper parts were used.
Center Support Assembly
  • Seal rings damaged
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.
  • Outside diameter or case bore damaged or leaking
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.
Direct Clutch Assembly
  • Assembly
  • Air check clutch assembly as outlined in this section.
  • Seals, piston or cylinder damaged
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.
  • Friction elements damaged, missing or improper quantity of plates were installed
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.
  • Ball check missing, not seating
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.
  • Intermediate brake drum inner diameter damaged or worn
  • Inspect for damage. Service as required.

Was speed control, if equipped, recall work completed? Check @ Recalls Look-up by VIN (Vehicle Identification Number); or @ Welcome to Ford Owner | Official Ford Owner Site; or ... have VIN ready. While there, see most Ford dealer maintenance/repairs done @ any dealership nation-wide.
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
See this guide by jowens1126 to confirm recall status @ 93 & 94-96 Cruise Control Recalls Repair
Note that the 93 recall is different than 94-96.

As you've done, for any Bronco questions or to chat about desired modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 posts required to participate due to scammers who preyed on our members ).

Here is the 1993 Bronco Dealer Brochure in Google Drive @ 93Bronco.pdf

1993 Bronco Dealer Training Video via silver70 @

1993 Bronco, Venezuela Commercial @

Our Forum FAQs includes for example, How To Upload Images To Posts & How to Use Search. See more tips!

Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links)including, "how do I get the tailgate glass to...", etc

Try to find time to participate in our Full-Size of the Month Contest and later in the year, Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
See pictures & build info of each Bronco nominated.
You will get ideas by those competing. Also see the prizes! They are awesome as compared to other sites' "contests"!
Al
 

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1996 Bronco - Eddie Bauer
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67 Posts
I say take a look at the VSS on the rear axle. Easy check to do, and relatively inexpensive. If the OD light isn't flashing then I would check the VSS.
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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As far as pulling codes on these old trucks, one of the best things I bought was a cheap code reader from autozone. $29.99 & it was a good investment. Leads me right to my problem in many cases. I keep it within arms reach at all times in my garage!
168971
 

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Throttle body sensor is your problem. Make sure you get a genuine Ford replacement and not any off market cheap part. Otherwise you will be replacing it again in a few weeks. Not an easy fix.
 

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Throttle body sensor is your problem. Make sure you get a genuine Ford replacement and not any off market cheap part. Otherwise you will be replacing it again in a few weeks. Not an easy fix.
pappy19
Are you referring to the TPS Throttle Position Sensor?
He hasn't even pulled codes. How can you say that with such certainty? I'm always looking to learn.

My thought was/is VSS.
 

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31” tires usually aren’t considered oversized, true, but check your door jamb sticker for the factory tire size to be sure. Some Broncos came with 31s, but if it says 235/75R15 on the sticker, those are 29” and your PSOM calibration could be off a little, showing a slower mph than what would be correct. That could affect shift points on the E4OD since it uses electronic input to determine shift points.

I don’t think that is your only issue, if it is an issue at all, but it is probably worth checking so you at least can have the 100% correct shift points and correct speed reading. If it still shifts improperly, something else is the culprit.

There is a way to pull transmission codes, but I can’t remember it. Perhaps @miesk5 will be by to offer some wisdom.

Cheers, and welcome to the site.
My truck came with 29s stock and ran 31s for years, it's a very small difference in terms of speed. And even then It's not going to cause ultra late and hard shifts unless he has to be very hard on the gas to keep it moving. It will still shift completely normal, it will just be a tad later. I have 27s on a car that came with 24s and aside from going 5+ MPH faster than indicated it drives the same.
pappy19
Are you referring to the TPS Throttle Position Sensor?
He hasn't even pulled codes. How can you say that with such certainty? I'm always looking to learn.

My thought was/is VSS.
Some people just throw out what they think it is.

This problem can be caused by the VSS, PSOM, or TPS.

The computer will delay shifts and firm them up under heavy throttle, so a bad TPS (throttle position sensor) can cause this since the computer may think the throttle is open more than it is. the computer also trusts the TPS unless it falls out of range, so it often won't set a code.

VSS (vehicle speed sensor) is on the rear differential, if it sends the wrong signal the computer can make it shift harder or later thinking it's going a different speed than it really is. On these trucks even if they have ABS the VSS is the only speed sensor the computer uses, as such it will trust it unless its very erratic or out of range, and not set a code.
Newer vehicles have speed sensors on all wheels, so if one or more don't reflect the others it can set a code.

PSOM (programmable speedometer/odometer module) is that thing you look at in the instrument cluster. On these trucks it not only displays speed and miles driven but converts the Signal from the VSS for the computer to use. As such it can cause the same problems. This was the problem when I got my truck. Intermittent late shifts that slammed the entire truck.

TPS is easy to test with a multimeter so I would do that first to rule it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Good news everyone, I replaced two things, took a test drive and it drove completely fine like before. No hard shifts or jerks/jumps.
Took a while, I had to get a job and some money for the work I'll be doing to the bronco.

I replaced first the VSS with a motorcraft replacement. I didn't test drive the bronco then but I just turned it on and changed around the gears from Drive to reverse, park neutral etc and it still changed hard. It would jump a bit.

I just replaced the Throttle position sensor with another motorcraft brand one. After that I drove her around and the bronco drove fine. I did also notice I seemed to have a high idle, my engine would be at 1500 rpm just after starting up. Hopefully that is also cleared up, will do some more test drives later. Now I can move on to the smaller issues I have and get her back to her ol glory. Thanks guys
 

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Nice .
 
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