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Hello! I was wondering if anyone had a good instructional video on how to replace the transmission cooler lines on a 1993 5.8L bronco. My transmission has been having quite a few issues the past few weeks and I thought the problem was solved by adding more transmission fluid however it seems the transmission lines are leaking somewhere at some point. So I figured I would replace the lines completely as they are fairly rusty, I understand its quite straight forward however I always like to have a reference when I replace something.

Transmission issue E40D
Around 3rd and 4th gear the transmission seems to down shift up shift and down shift repeatedly while I am holding the same RPM and rate of acceleration. As of recent the transmission seems really sluggish and I have to play around with the throttle. Now more often than not If I accelerate at a slow rate of speed the transmission has no issues with shifting. Only when I accelerate at a fast rate does the transmission seem to have the issue (Specifically if I accelerate around or above 3,000 RPM that is when the issues start to occur) I do live on a main road and the speed limit is 50MPH so more often that not I have to accelerate at a high rate of speed to match the speed of the traffic so I can safety pull out and merge.
 

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I believe that you have to make your own, like brake lines, unfortunately.

After patching my lines enough times, I've eventually had to loop out my auxiliary trans cooler since it started leaking around the fittings.
I will say that aside from funky shifts, when I got too low on fluid before I noticed, I would nearly stall out at stop signs as if driving a manual and forgetting to push the clutch in.
 

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Inline Tube $55 for steel $80 for stainless. Preformed / bolt up.

 

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Yo ButtStallion,
E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) is a LED and overdrive on/off switch at end of the Transmission shifter stalk; flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Is it flashing while driving?

Try a Self-Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes by my pal, BroncoJoe19


PCM stores the Self-Test program in permanent memory. When activated, Self-Test checks the EEC system by testing memory integrity and processing capability, and verifies that various sensors and actuators are connected and operating properly.

Inspect the air cleaner and inlet ducting. KCheck all engine vacuum hoses for damage, leaks, cracks, blockage, proper routing, etc. Check EEC system including the wiring harness for proper connections, bent or broken pins, corrosion, loose wires, proper routing, etc. Check the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), sensors and actuators for physical damage. TPS, ICM, DISTRIBUTOR, etc. Check the engine coolant for proper level and mixture. Check the transmission fluid & engine oil level and quality. Make all necessary repairs before continuing with SELF TEST.

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test. Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch. Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.

Do KOEO test First. Post Code(s) here according to KOEO & KOER.
A helper can assist you by counting the codes. Some use their smart phones to record them.

BEWARE OF FAN, BELTS, PULLEYS, HOT HOSES, IGNITION HIGH TENSION WIRES, AND ENGINE COMPONENTS

Or ask local mom and dad parts stores if they will test it for you.
Or purchase a coder reader such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.
 

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Yo,
"...Observe color and odor of the fluid. It should be red, not brown or black. Odor may indicate overheating condition, clutch disc or band failure.
Use an absorbent white facial tissue and wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solid particles and for engine coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator).
If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, the transmission pan must be removed for further inspection.
If fluid contamination or transmission failure is confirmed by further evidence of coolant or excessive particles in the transmission pan, the transmission must be disassembled and completely cleaned and serviced. This includes cleaning and flushing the torque converter and transmission cooling system. Repair or replace radiator."

➡Low Transmission Fluid Level And Or Shift And Or Engagement Concerns TSB 97-12-13 for 87-96 Bronco & many others; "...may have low fluid level and/or may have either a shift concern and/or an engagement concern. This may be caused by transmission fluid leaking from the transmission into the transfer case through the transfer case input seal. Replace the transfer case input seal..."
152768

152769


E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) is a LED and overdrive on/off switch at end of the Transmission shifter stalk; flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Is it flashing while driving?

➡"Transmission Fluid Cooler Tube Leakage
When fluid leakage is found at the transmission fluid cooler (7A095), the transmission fluid cooler must be replaced.
When transmission fluid cooler steel lines must be replaced, each replacement line must be fabricated from the same size inside diameter and length steel line as the original line.
Using the old line as a guide, bend the new line as required. Add the necessary fittings, and install the line.
After the fittings have been tightened, check and add fluid as necessary. Check for fluid leaks." by Ford

"Transmission Cooler and Lines, Back Flushing and Cleaning
Conduct back flushing with a Rotunda Torque Converter/Oil Cooler Cleaner 014-00028 or equivalent. Test your equipment to make sure that a vigorous fluid flow is present before proceeding. Replace the system filter if flow is weak or contaminated.
To aid in attaching the cleaner to the transmission steel cooler lines, connect two additional rubber hoses to the transmission end of the steel transmission cooler lines as described below.
Connect the cleaner tank pressure line to the steel transmission cooler return line (longest line).
Connect a tank return hose to the steel transmission cooler pressure line (shorter line). Place the outlet end of this hose in the solvent tank reservoir.
Turn on solvent pump and allow the solvent to circulate a minimum of 5 minutes (cycling switch on and off will help dislodge contaminants in cooler system).
Switch off the solvent pump and disconnect the solvent pressure hose from the transmission cooler return line.
Use compressed air to blow out the cooler(s) and lines (blow air into the transmission cooler return line) until all solvent is removed.
Remove the rubber return hose from the remaining steel cooler line."
  1. 152770
 

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I wonder what the difference is from 93 to 95 with the E40D setup. Maybe the auxiliary trans cooler? When I ordered the transmission lines from Inline a few years ago they didn't fit. Now they don't show up for 95's but available for 93..
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IMG_20151224_191359308.jpg
 

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I wonder what the difference is from 93 to 95 with the E40D setup. Maybe the auxiliary trans cooler? When I ordered the transmission lines from Inline a few years ago they didn't fit. Now they don't show up for 95's but available for 93..
View attachment 152844 View attachment 152843
Not sure. I just remember when I was researching lines for my '95 that they didn't show available but the '93 did.
 
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