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Discussion Starter #1
Ok everyone so I am starting a write up on a door removal and wiring because I can not find one on a full power post 92 bronco. There are already write ups on how to change the door pins to make them removable so I’m using their combined strategies to get this done. I will take detailed pictures as of every step.

Things I am using for this setup:
Trailer 4 point connectors for wiring. There are 17 wires on driver side that you have to cut and splice. Passenger side depending on your wiring you should be able to get behind the kick panel and unclip everything but your speaker wire. So only a few connectors will be needed on that side.
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I am also purchasing heat shrink for the spliced in areas.
Here are the replacement door hinge pins I am getting. The eclips should be fine. I may change them out to pins if it’s a pain to take off and possibly lose.

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Stay tuned.
 

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i dig the idea, but trailer wire connectors? it would seem like you could find smaller plugs that hold more wires at a junk yard, if no place else.

also, where will the connectors reside when the door is installed? if you have five trailer connectors, that's going to take up a ton of space.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok so we have the passenger side.
one black and one grey connector.
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then you will have speaker wire you have to cut and splice
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Discussion Starter #4
Passenger side is done. Everything is plugged in. We needed three trailer connectors on this side. We had one extra wire that wasn’t covered. I may trade that one out for a normal connector because it is located inside the truck beneath the kick panel.
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Discussion Starter #5
i dig the idea, but trailer wire connectors? it would seem like you could find smaller plugs that hold more wires at a junk yard, if no place else.

also, where will the connectors reside when the door is installed? if you have five trailer connectors, that's going to take up a ton of space.
i would love to do a normal pic connector but they are not weather resistant.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Started the drivers side but had to pause for the day. I almost got all the connectors hooked up and between the door and the hole in the a pillar all connectors will fit fine. Just a PITA to feed them through the rubber boot. Debating on cutting it but I’ll wait to see if I can find an easier way. Hopefully we will be almost finished by tomorrow. I’ll update with pictures then as well
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok day two!
finished the pins and all the connectors. went to start it, just cranks. Assuming it’s the aftermarket alarm system. So in the process of taking that out. Crossing my fingers that works. Any way here is the updated photos.


all wires are spliced, heat wrapped and electrical taped. Connectors are labeled and new bushings and pins are on. Yes the doors are heavy but I was able to unbolt and hold them up at the same time. When putting them back on it was easy to drop the pin in and close.
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I shaved down the tops of the pins so they slid right on the bushings.
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also I drilled out the old holes in the hinges to smooth them out and tapped the new bushings in. I had to unbolt the doors from the hinge to remove the pins. This also made it allot easier to get the wiring finished on the drivers side.
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most of the connectors are done on the drivers side here. I went with the trailer ones because they are weather resistant. They fit in both the a pillar and the door pretty easily and they all fit in the door when it is on the truck. Only problem I am having is with the rubber boot. I may have to cut it to make this work. Fishing the connectors through is a long process.

Will have more to show tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter #8
All set up all wires are connected and spliced. I did have to buy dust covers for the connectors because they are hot wires and The metal is showing while in the a pillar unplugged. Dust covers should be here Thursday.
Let’s just say the pins and wiring was the easy part.

The pins are easy to put in I can handle the door and the pins myself no problem. Wires take all of 2 seconds to disconnect. Still some finishing touches to go. But doors are off.

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there are about 4 connectors in the A pillar. All fit perfect. I do want to find a rubber grommet to close the hole up when the doors are off. Home cheapo might sell them.
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also still debating what to do with the rubber wire look. If I cut it in sure water will get in the a pillar. So I’m trying to figure out the best plan before I proceed.

Maldonado found out that for the passenger side there were 5 wires that were connected through the door that were part of the alarm. Now that this is out there is only the speaker wire that needs a connector. The rest are already quick release plugs behind the kick panel.

Any ideas for the drivers side wire loom?

And Now I’m dealing with the truck not starting. No idea why. Just cranks but doesn’t fire up. I thought it was something to do with the alarm but that is not the case. Kinda sucks cause I was excited to take take her for a spin.
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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Just a thought... If you're going to all this trouble, I assume you want to run door-less fairly often? In which case, why not convert to manual windows and locks? PW/PL's aren't doing you much good in the garage... Then you'd have only the speaker wires to deal with, and you might as well find a non-door location to mount them at that point, a la Jeeps.
 

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Just a thought... If you're going to all this trouble, I assume you want to run door-less fairly often? In which case, why not convert to manual windows and locks? PW/PL's aren't doing you much good in the garage... Then you'd have only the speaker wires to deal with, and you might as well find a non-door location to mount them at that point, a la Jeeps.
Plenty of space under the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just a thought... If you're going to all this trouble, I assume you want to run door-less fairly often? In which case, why not convert to manual windows and locks? PW/PL's aren't doing you much good in the garage... Then you'd have only the speaker wires to deal with, and you might as well find a non-door location to mount them at that point, a la Jeeps.
I thought about that as well, but that would mean I need new doors? no? It’s already done now but I did think about it. I don’t even use the power locks because I don’t have a remote button that unlocks the doors. I use them when inside to lock both doors before getting out.
 

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I thought about that as well, but that would mean I need new doors? no? It’s already done now but I did think about it. I don’t even use the power locks because I don’t have a remote button that unlocks the doors. I use them when inside to lock both doors before getting out.
I haven't looked into what's involved on these vehicles, but usually, it's just the door's innards that get swapped, not the whole door.

That inertia switch always "trips" me up when I pull the passenger kick panel cover... You'd think I'd remember one of these times to check it before the next start.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
To finish this one off I wanted to find plugs or grommets to close up the holes where the wires are when the door is off. I found some 2” plastic pipe stoppers at Home Depot. They worked great. Still looking around for a wire loom for the drivers side. If I cut the OEM rubber one open to get the wires through I want to be able to seal it somehow so water doesn’t get into the a pillar

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A few finishing touches as I finish this project. I would recommend getting dust covers for the trailer connectors. I realized the open metal connector on the trailer connectors are sparking on the body. It actually burnt out a fuse on me. So dust covers did the trick. Also for the switch for the door light that’s on the a pillar, I pulled the switch out, I think it’s 13mm. Cut the wires and wrapped them separately. I don’t have a dome light but the chime is not going off after that. I did the same with the passenger side.
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Discussion Starter #18
Put the drivers door back on yesterday to see about fitment of the boot and wires. I did have to cut the boot and all the wires do fit into the a pillar and holes but just looks a little sloppy. Not to mention the boot is now cut so water can get in. I’ll have to figure out a better way for wiring. Thinking a 20 pin connector that is small enough to fit into the a pillar hole, about 2 inches. The only thing I can find is on amazon. It’s a Molex 20 pin waterproof But I’m going to keep looking for better ways to get these wires done. I really don’t want to go through the hassle of swapping to manual windows. I also don’t like the idea of moving the controls.
I know there isn’t a forum yet for this wiring setup so I’ll keep this up to date on what works and what doesn’t. The trailer connectors work, just not a great setup.
I could take a trip to the JY if they are open, but not sure if they are. I thought about making a hole in the inside to fish the wires through and keep the connectors on the inside but I’d have to really look at that option.
 
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