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I just got my Bronco 2 weeks ago. Pulled codes and on the KOEO got the following codes.
212 - Loss of IDM Input to EEC or Spout Circuit Grounded

649 - Electronic Pressure Control Range Fail

668 - MLPS Open Circuit

331 - ? It has a 332 which is EGR Valve not Opening. I ran it 3 times and this is the 1st code that comes out. It did not repeat with the others, so this may not be an actual code, im not sure.....

Research showed the 668 code warranted replacement of the MLPS also called Neutral Safety Switch also called the Transmission Range Sensor.

I purchased the upgrade kit from Rockauto.
Kit came with MLPS, New style Connector, 2 extra Silicone weather seals, and NO INSTRUCTIONS.


With the help of Jeremy (Jermil01), I figured how to get the old one off and the new one on.

1st step, Chock the wheels and put it in neutral, engage emergency brake.


Then remove the passenger seat and center console and pull the carpet back and take the transmission tunnel cover off.


This is what you see from the top.



Break out your creeper, or if your like me and dont have one, the old torn up tailgate carpet will do.


Pop the hold down bolts off, 8mm socket.



Pry off the linkage.


Remove the Bolt and Bracket (15mm Socket)



Slide the old worn out MLPS off and look how disgusting it was.



Stick the new MLPS on.


Bolt the sensor bolts back on.


Reconnect linkage and clean up all the tools.


Get inside and pull the harness up into the cab.


Pull the cap off the connector and pull the silicone seal out and cut it off carefully.


Disect the plug with a dremel tool, carefully! Its alot easier than trying to figure out how to de-pin the thing.





Pry it apart with a screw driver.


Now its alot easier to take the pins out without tearing them up.



THANKS ALOT Jermey (Jermil01), I probably would have been scratchin' my head for an extra hour without your help! He also helped me with the wiring. Getting the pins out was not as easy as I thought it was going to be, so I took matters into my own hands. Well im not gonna use that old connector anymore anyway.

Thanks to SeattleFSB for the Instructions.
Ask and you would have received! Here are the Assembly Swap Instructions for the upgraded 1995 Ford MLPS. I hope these can assist someone else in the future. The links go to a more detailed view.

The different grommets are for different applications. Connector dissasembly is simple, remove the red pin separator from the connector end and use a jeweler's screwdriver to release the internal locking finger of each pin. The problem most have is not remembering which colored wire goes where, so either write them down or place them into the new connector as you go.

I'm not sure why you had to remove your seat and console because mine were easily accessable from under the vehicle. Maybe the 1994 E4OD is different from the 1990?

Great upgrade though, as the new style connector is much more water resistant. :thumbup


1995 Ford MLPS Instructions - Page 1




1995 Ford MLPS Instructions - Page 2




1995 Ford MLPS Instructions - Page 3




1995 Ford MLPS Instructions - Page 4

1995 Ford MLPS Instructions - Page 5

1995 Ford MLPS Instructions - Page 6
Swap the pins out to the same position they came from in the old connector. Write down a diagram of the old connector and wire colors so you wont get them mixed up.

Don't forget to thread them thru the cap first.




Pins lock into the connector one way only, if they don't click rotate the pin 180° and try again till it clicks and locks.


Push the silicone seal back into place.



Put the cap back on.


Tape the jacket back together.


Re-connect the connector to the MLPS.


Replace the Tunnel cover.


Replace the carpet and the seat.


Take it for a test drive. Your done! Give yourself about $200 for the beer fund.

Results:
I took it out down a country road and it shifts FANTASTIC now. Got it up on the interstate and it shifts very smooth!
There was no sign of slippage into neutral at all. Before the converter would pop in and out between 60 and 70mph, that is also fixed too....so far.
Overall A easy fix, If I can do it anyone can.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ive run it now about 150 miles since the repair and its still shifting great and showing no problems with the tranny at all. Still have no transmission codes either. Maybe this fix will hold me for another 6 months or so.
 

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Screw the Jeep Thing
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How does the NSS affect the shifting? Shouldn't that only affect the car starting in gear? Or is that just on the old school C6's? My 85 only had like 3 or 4 wires going into it though.
 

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The NSS tells the COMPUTER what gear the truck is actually in. The C6 has no COMPUTER.
So on the E4OD if the NSS is messed up the computer starts guessing what gear its in and will just say **** it and throw itself in neutral randomly.
 

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I scrape on both sides
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digging this "old" thread up because i cant find a solid answer.

what is the sensor called on the other side of the e4od? I'm thinking about going through with throwing a 1995 upgraded mlps into my 91 and will probably replace the other connector/sensor at the same time... both are fairly dirty and am getting some weird symptoms, cleaned up the connectors on both sides of both sensors and helped alleviate my symptoms a bit, but theyre still somewhat present and i admit didnt do the greatest job cleaning them up... would've helped if i could find a tooth pick or something and wasnt crunched on time

thanks in advance
 

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I scrape on both sides
Joined
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3,036 Posts
digging this "old" thread up because i cant find a solid answer.

what is the sensor called on the other side of the e4od? I'm thinking about going through with throwing a 1995 upgraded mlps into my 91 and will probably replace the other connector/sensor at the same time... both are fairly dirty and am getting some weird symptoms, cleaned up the connectors on both sides of both sensors and helped alleviate my symptoms a bit, but theyre still somewhat present and i admit didnt do the greatest job cleaning them up... would've helped if i could find a tooth pick or something and wasnt crunched on time

thanks in advance

found my answer, wasnt using the right search terms as usual

"The connector on the driver's side of the transmission is for the MLPS (Manual Lever Position Sensor). This tells the transmission what gear you have selected so that it may act accordingly. The connector on the passenger's side of the transmission is the shift solenoid connector."
source:stangmata
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey Seattle,

Where does the other end of that Solenoid Harness work its way to? Does it go straight to the ECM? Or does it go to some other multi-pin connector first?
 

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Hey Seattle,

Where does the other end of that Solenoid Harness work its way to? Does it go straight to the ECM? Or does it go to some other multi-pin connector first?
The T89T-70100-A E4OD Test Harness replaces the the vehicle harness at the E4OD Solenoid Body Connector. The leads are used with a DVOM to perform a Pinpoint test of the Solenoid Body as outlined in the E4OD Electrical Diagnostics Chart located in the Ford Bronco Truck Shop Manual. Specific E4OD Pinpoint Tests are directed to determine the cause of a DTC 49, 56, 59, 62, 66, 67, 69, 91, 92, 93, 94, 98 or 99 all of which are E4OD Trouble Codes. Depending on the resistance or continuity values of the Pinpoint Test, you are then directed to either replace the Solenoid Body or progress to additional tests - including the use of a separate MLPS Test Harness for a Pinpoint Test of the MLPS.

I believe that this specific Test Harness is used on E4ODs up to 1993. Then a different harness was issued for later models.

To answer your specific question, the other end of the Test Solenoid Harness work their way to your DVOM.
 

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Man of endless projects
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looking through this, you didn't mention anything about aligning the MLPS. you got to put the tranny into Neutral and align the marks. that's why the holes for the sensor are slotted is so you can align the marks to make sure it detects what position itsin correctly.

 

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PI have a 95 5.0 and had no shifting issues but it did not have much power until above 2k rpm. I was checking codes and it had a "not in park" code, but I was in park. So, I changed the 95 transmission range sensor and OMG, new truck! It's like a new transmission. It felt like it was finally putting the HP to the pavement. Nice!
 

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good thing you didnt take it to AAMCO, they would have told you your transmission was shot and you needed a $2500 rebuild, then they would put the old MLPS on it, and it still wouldnt work. lol
 

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I just wanted to say thank you for this thread. This is probably some of the best information on changing the MLPS. While I don't have a Bronco, I have a '90 F150 and used this information for that.

Pulling the codes, the computer was sending code "67". I looked it up and sure enough it was a the MLPS.

This morning, I pulled the carpet back, removed the cover, and it made changing the connector so much easier. I also cleaned the solenoid plug as well.

Once it was all buttoned up, I took it for an 18 mile test drive. So far, so good. Hopefully this has helped cure my truck's hard shifting and randomly going into neutral.
 

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Its amazing how much one little sensor can screw up a perfectly fine vehicle. This is one of those things where if your in doubt change it. Its just too cheap not to.
 

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Replaced MLPS, Replaced Speed Sensor...still goes into neutral!

So I replaced the MLPS with the kit that comes with the new harness...the old one didn't look so bad (it may have even been replaced with the same kit, as the harness was identical).

I also changed the Speed Sensor in the rear diff with a new one. The old one looked ok, maybe a little worn, but it wasn't expensive, so I swapped it.

I also changed the fluid, and properly checked the levels. Lots of metal (maybe 4 tablespoons worth of filings) on the magnet, but I have no idea when the last time the fluid had been changed or the magnet cleaned.

It was driving fine for a few days, but on the highway earlier going about 60 mph it fell back into neutral. I pulled over (as i've done 100 times before), came to a full stop, and then it worked fine for another 5 miles or so. On a local road going about 40, it did the same thing.

No CEL, but my ABS light is on (and has been for years) - I assume it's the front ABS sensor (isn't the rear ABS sensor part of the Speed Sensor?). Not sure if that has anything to do with the issue.

What's the next thing to check? Solenoid Pack?

THANK YOU for all the help so far - this forum rocks! :rockon
 

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I am the original owner of my 1994 Bronco and its acting just like yours. Transmission shop said no codes found said they will have to throw parts at it until its fixed. I picked up my truck and ran. I am ordering a new MLPS from Rock Auto to replace my original one. Hopefully this fixes the dropping into neutral randomly problem. If anyone has any suggestions to our problem please advise !
 
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