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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All - my 1994 I am in need of a regear in the rear end - I was thinking of just going 9" but I may just rebuild as funds are still tight from the past 19+ months.

Question - I have 4.10 now - any advice on replacing or going 4.55 or shorter in the rear end and front end.

Also thinking about trying out an Eaton Tru Track in the rear end over the factory LSD and clutches. Any advice?

I did find a local shop that can regear and rebuild for a very reasonable price but I am not sure if going the 4.10 replace a rebuild route or 4.55 makes more sense.

Thanks, guys before I spend this money I wanted to run this all buy you all first!!!

Cheers! (y)
 

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1996 Ford Bronco XL
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What tire size?
 

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If you wanted to go to a 9" rear end then you'd have to relocate your speed sensor, so factor that into the costs.

But as already mentioned the 4.10/33" tire and 4.55/35" tires are close to factory testing of 3.55/31"

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK so I have 35" tires - should I just go 4.55 with the e4od I have the extra gear..... anyone has some good feedback or real-world experiences with 4.55 and 35" tires - say at 60 mph and 70 mph RPM's?

I would get this old goat moving a little faster as well :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
4.56 or 4.88. 4.56 should get it close to stock gearing with the oversized tires.
Any recommendation for the LSD - I was thinking I would try a detroit truetrac in the rear, I hear good things and it sounds like it can Handel larger tires way better than the original LSD. Any recommendations are welcome.

Any recommendations for the front?
 

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Any recommendation for the LSD - I was thinking I would try a detroit truetrac in the rear, I hear good things and it sounds like it can Handel larger tires way better than the original LSD. Any recommendations are welcome.

Any recommendations for the front?
Look for my thread on this exact topic. I'm going true tracks front and rear.

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Look for my thread on this exact topic. I'm going true tracks front and rear.

Yo - I think this has me convinced to go 4.56's and a TT rear, I may just leave the front open for now and throw in a lunchbox down the road f I need it, I mainly take this camping and down to the dunes so the higher gear and better rear LSD should be awesome!

Now you have me thinking 4.88's.......
 

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id defiantly do 4.88 and truetrack if you stay 8.8". would recommend chromoly axleshafts which the shop would probably get for you anwyasy. welding the axle tubes to the diff housing to prevent spinning an axle tube is highly recommended but i doubt the shop would do that for you.

a proper 8.8" is comparable to a stock 9" once a few things are addressed. an aftermarket 9" on the other hand is about as strong as a stock Dana 60 tho it cost alot also. as said you will need a VSS relocation kit for the speedometer and auto tranny with a 9"

instead of 9", have you ever considered 10.25" Sterling? going 8-lug would be an issue of course and usually need to shorten the driveshaft. But you wont break it and they are usually pretty easy to find. the master rebuild kit on JBG is the best price you can find and is great quality, ive used several. 10.25" RnP dont really cost any more but there are less brands to choose from. you could buy a new Ford OEM e-locker for $500 and swap it in pretty easy. doing an disk brake conversion is easy and cheap from Ruffstuff if that is something you are looking for.

in the end it depends how rough you are or how overbuilt you want to go. any way you go you are spending a good amount of money
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
id defiantly do 4.88 and truetrack if you stay 8.8". would recommend chromoly axleshafts which the shop would probably get for you anwyasy. welding the axle tubes to the diff housing to prevent spinning an axle tube is highly recommended but i doubt the shop would do that for you.

a proper 8.8" is comparable to a stock 9" once a few things are addressed. an aftermarket 9" on the other hand is about as strong as a stock Dana 60 tho it cost alot also. as said you will need a VSS relocation kit for the speedometer and auto tranny with a 9"

instead of 9", have you ever considered 10.25" Sterling? going 8-lug would be an issue of course and usually need to shorten the driveshaft. But you wont break it and they are usually pretty easy to find. the master rebuild kit on JBG is the best price you can find and is great quality, ive used several. 10.25" RnP dont really cost any more but there are less brands to choose from. you could buy a new Ford OEM e-locker for $500 and swap it in pretty easy. doing an disk brake conversion is easy and cheap from Ruffstuff if that is something you are looking for.

in the end it depends how rough you are or how overbuilt you want to go. any way you go you are spending a good amount of money
Great feedback - I'll stay 8.8 for now - I'm sold on 4.88 - TT, keep the front open for now, I'm not rocking crawling where SAS rigs belong.

OK, final question - does anyone regret or have negative feedback for 4.88's with an E4od?

Cheers!
 

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*SOLD* 1989 Eddie Bauer 5.8, C6, True Trac diffs, 4.56 gears, 4" C&T lift, 130A 3G Alt, 35" Grabbers
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O am running 4.56 gears and Tru Trac diffs. Only complaint is highway speeds are pretty much unattainable unless I want to run my 5.8 at about 3800 RPMs. I have a C6 though.
 

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thats is the advantage of overdrive and a locking converter. even with high axle ratios, the highway rpms are still plenty manageable.

i run 4.56 with 33"s and 4R70W in my F250 and love it. i should have gone 4.88 but i was worried about towing with OD off having high rpms. there are many of us on here that have slightly higher than normal ratios. on my 96 bronco, i will be running 5.13 and 37s, it drives plenty fine at highway speeds

so at 65mph and 35" tires the rpm for 4.10 ratio should be ~1820rpm, 4.56 would be ~2020rpm, 4.88 ratio would be ~2160rpm, 5.13 ratio would be ~2270rpm
so even with that high of a ratio the rpm are perfectly fine compared to something like a C6. the problem with running say a 5.13 or 5.38 ratio is that the pinion gear gets very small and weak. so 4.88 would be the better.

you might consider a TracLok or DuraGrip for the front. think they can be had pretty decent price usually and would defiantly help a good amount. i find that i prefer having front and rear traction more than having larger tires. i run a Duragrip in my F250 and it really helps offroading even tho its only on 33 ATs.
 

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I’m with Kingfish999, my 94 5.8/e4od is running 4.88’s. When I had 35’s the combo worked great. 70mph ran around 2400rpms.

I now run 37’s and the gearing is adequate.
 
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Another thing to consider is that when you hi up in gear size you'll need to buy a new carrier for the front. The cost of a new open diff plus a lunchbox locker won't be real short of a true Trac. cost.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Pinion in my 94 8.8 decided to die with 3.55s and 37s. 351 and E4OD. Went to a sterling 10.25 axle and 4.88 gears all around. It was a puddy tat on the highway around 2100 rpms. I wished id gone 5.13 or higher.

Im running 4.56 in the 8.8 in my 85 with 37" tires. Its a manual trans with no overdrive, so 4.56 is low enough and allows me to do 80 on the highway. The granny low first gear more than makes up for the 4.56 gears vs 5.13s.
 

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Another thing to consider is that when you hi up in gear size you'll need to buy a new carrier for the front. The cost of a new open diff plus a lunchbox locker won't be real short of a true Trac. cost.
he already had 4.10 gears so he wont need a new front diff

JBG had front D44 TracLok for 275$ but are out of stock unfortunately. the part number is 73548X but it looks like you either spend a decent more in cost or are out of stock also. looks like any other LS carrier is 450$ and up. but while you have the front done i would really say go to LS. you can add LS to the rear later easier
 

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I went with a 4:56 and a full Detroit in the rear….. after the 6 inch skyjacker.

I’m running a e4od and a 5.8

Probably the best modification I had done since I bought her in 2005.

not a big difference in the cruising speed of 70mpg…. But man see gets there in a hurry … compared to stock.

All total dropped mpg to 10mpg if I drive normal.
 
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