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Im sure the answer is already posted here but just havent found it and wanting to change the rearend grease in the morning and after flipping through my Haynes manual it gives ford part #s only with no weights or other info. I have a 1994 with axle code # 19.
 

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im thinking ur talking about gear oil and it depends if its limited slip or not, which i googled ur axle code at its says u have a non limited slip diff with 3.55 gears. u just need to put a good quality hypoid gear oil in there i use valvoline products but whatever works, i would stay away from store brand though but thats me. Also I use a 80-90 weight or something like that havent had a problem yet.
 

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the only grease back there are the u joints. everything else is gear oil. and im not too picky on brands, but i always do synthetic. whatever kind is cheapest. also its 75w-90 that you should put in. if the axle code is correct, you dont need to add friction modifier. funny thing is my axle code is the same but at some point an LS was swapped in so you have to double check.
 

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if you go synthetic, drain out all the old stuff first... synthetic is fine, but it's got to be all synthetic or all traditional. No topping off with one or the other.
 

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thats it cw 75w-90 and synthetic is a good option and a good way to tell if u have limited slip is where the spider gears theres a spring type s clip looking thing.
 

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That is pure 100% BS. You can mix them all you want.


Yup you can mix all you want. What do you think a synthetic BLEND is. When synthetic first was available on the market you couldnt blend them but the syn now is made so that you can blend them.


straight off the Mobil 1 FAQ page

Can different synthetic motor oils be mixed together?

Mobil 1 is fully compatible with conventional motor oils, semi-synthetic motor oils and other synthetic motor oils, should it be necessary to mix them. However, it is important to note that the superior performance of Mobil 1 will be reduced by diluting it in any way.
 

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All the 75-90 I am aware of is a synthetic, non synthetic is rated at the 80-90. I am not familiar with any 80-90 that is a synthetic. I am talking major national brands, not something like Red Line or Royal Purple as possibly a specialty manufacturer could manufacture a lube that does not follow the main line trends.
 

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if you go synthetic, drain out all the old stuff first... synthetic is fine, but it's got to be all synthetic or all traditional. No topping off with one or the other.
gotta put my boots on, the bullshit in here is getting deep.

mix and match as you please OP. it won't hurt a thing.
 

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What gear oil would one use for an 8.8 locked with stock gears. The rear end started to wine so my uncle replaced it w/stock gears and a locker. I don't know what kind, I'm still waiting for the paperwork on the gears in the mail. The truck sat over 10 years and was only moved once. My ABS light goes on and off and I want to see if this is the problem. Its the only one on and it drives me crazy.
 

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What gear oil would one use for an 8.8 locked with stock gears. The rear end started to wine so my uncle replaced it w/stock gears and a locker. I don't know what kind, I'm still waiting for the paperwork on the gears in the mail. The truck sat over 10 years and was only moved once. My ABS light goes on and off and I want to see if this is the problem. Its the only one on and it drives me crazy.
Non synthetic gear oil would be an 80-90 wt, synthetic would be 75-90 wt.You could use either one. Many synthetics come with the limited slip additive already in the oil, most non synthetics do not if this was the case and included the additive then nothing else is needed but you need to read the bottle of the lube you are buying and see if it has limited slip additive in it.

If the lube you are buying does not have the additive already in it you need to purchase a bottle of limited slip additive to put in with the gear oil, it usually comes in about a 4oz or so bottle and is a must have if you have a locker.
 

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What gear oil would one use for an 8.8 locked with stock gears. The rear end started to wine so my uncle replaced it w/stock gears and a locker. I don't know what kind, I'm still waiting for the paperwork on the gears in the mail. The truck sat over 10 years and was only moved once. My ABS light goes on and off and I want to see if this is the problem. Its the only one on and it drives me crazy.
If your speedometer goes nuts at the same time as the ABS light comes on its probably your VSS in the top of your pumkin. Its about $20 at your local parts store.
 

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gotta put my boots on, the bullshit in here is getting deep.

mix and match as you please OP. it won't hurt a thing.
Yes there are a lot of misconceptions and wives tales floating around concerning the synthetic and non synthetic oil and lubes.

Also much of the confusion is due to the OEM vehicle manufacturers as well putting you need to use (insert manufacturer here) fluid part number such and such instead of using the more familiar "trade" name for the fluid.

Of course this is done intentionally as they want to scare the consumer to coming back to the dealership and buy the part # in their owners manual as they are scared they will mess something expensive up when in reality they could go to any parts store and buy dexron VI or mercon V for half the price and have the correct fluids.

Most of the parts people that the AZ type of chains employ cannot give you any information that their computer does not lay in front of them.

One thing that can help you is to find a parts house that heavily deals with garage commercial accounts. Generally most of the parts people that deal with shops most of the time will be much more knowledgeable (shops do not have time to deal with parts people that do not have a clue and the parts stores will only employ and keep people that make their accounts happy so as not to lose the accounts business!) and will have more resources such as manufacturers catalogs and spec sheets.

This goes for much more than just fluids. You would be surprised at what information is available in a manufacturers catalog that no computer data base will hold.

You do have to remember though that these places stay busy and deal with high volumn shops and do not have time to look up numerous obsolete parts just to give you a price or whether they can get it and you will not be ready to purchase for 6 months.

Pull that several times and the parts guys are not going to continue to waste their time when they see you coming and that 30 minutes they just spent with you AGAIN and no purchases made they could have sold 600.00 to a shop by helping answering the multiple phone lines that are ringing.

Also coming in and becoming a regular customer and developing a good business relationship with the guys behind the counter helps when you need that parts guy that will go the extra mile trying to cross reference or come up with that elusive seal or bearing that everyone else is giving you the wrong part.

How many Auto Zone parts guys have ever taken your bearing and measured it with a micrometer to get the correct sizes to find you the right part. But be one of those customers that comes in and finds out you charge 20 cents more than AZ for a quart of oil and you do not purchase the oil, well go back to AZ when you need something!

Believe me when I tell you a store that caters to commercial clients really does not care whether they deal with walk in "retail" customers. In more cases than not walk ins do not generate the same revenue that the tied up parts guy can turn on the phone to his commercial accounts in the same amount of time.

Walk ins that build that good business relationship by being a good regular customer even for the common everyday things that tie up little time are viewed as just that a good regular customer that going out of your way a bit for is worthwhile.

A good parts guy can be your best friend and you do not find them everywhere.
 

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you are correct Additive is for LS not a locker.
Very true, but most factory rear ends have limited slips installed and not something like a detroit. Not being sure what he has the limited slip additive is insurance that he has the needed lubrication. The LS additive will not hurt a true locker but not having it in the limited slip will not be good for the clutches.

Better to play it safe than sorry for the small price of the additive if there is any question.
 

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Very true, but most factory rear ends have limited slips installed and not something like a detroit. Not being sure what he has the limited slip additive is insurance that he has the needed lubrication. The LS additive will not hurt a true locker but not having it in the limited slip will not be good for the clutches.

Better to play it safe than sorry for the small price of the additive if there is any question.
:twak

No idea about any other lockers, but I contacted Eaton a few years ago and they said to absolutly NOT run synthetic with the detroit locker and NO additives either, it will not function properly.

If it is a LOCKER and you cannot determine the manufacturer DO NOT run synthetic or an additive.
 

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Thank you for the info. I'm gonna check the pics on this site in and stuff to try to get an idea what I'm looking at in the rear end and try to determine what I have. My uncle is not in the best of health so I cant bother him to try to speed his mailing of the paper work.
 
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