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Discussion Starter #1
Unfortunately my Bronco has turned into a rot box rather quickly, given what it needs I decided that it was going to be more cost effective to find a new donor and swap the cab onto my chassis.

I found this relitively solid 94' Bronco in NH. It has a bad tranny, and I was able to score it for $1200. It has just a few bubbles starting to show on the lips of the quarters, and the typical rear cross member issues just starting. I gutted the interior today and only found two small problem areas that need to be patched.

I'll keep updating this as I go.

Here's where it started.



I cleaned a few surface rust spots with a wire wheel and will POR-15 them tomorrow after we patch this hole. Its right next to the seam at the rear seat hinge....gonna have to try and extract that broken bolt too, couldnt heat it because the carpet was in there, and couldnt get the carpet out because the bolt was frozen :duh



Heres where it stands right now



and the typical rot in the rear corners which will be repaired after the swap is finished.

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Im hoping someone can answer this for me, as I said before, It is just starting to show a few small bubbles on the quarter lips, they are otherwise solid. I could get away with arch panels, but Im hoping to remove the entire quarters to grind and seal everything inside with POR-15. Is it possible to remove the quarters then glue them back on? I'm hoping to avoid the added expense of full replacements if I can.
 

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yo,
It will be a mess to remove rear 1/4s due to spot weld all around; from B pillar to top of 1/4 around and down to wheelwell. Sixlitre and others have used spot weld cutter bit and body panel adhesives.

Those bubbles will turn into holes once you apply a Dremel w/sanding disc...

Replacement w/adhesive & Tips in an 86, including wheel house; "...did my quarters Thursday and two hours later I removed the clamps and grabbed the rear quarter top and shook the $h#t out of the truck with it. I'm a convert; Been out on the road already and even took some serious speed bumps at speed and no creaks, squeaks or groans..."
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7712&pp=20&page=12


MUCH More in Malcolm's SM page @ http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=4970&s=19605#content



I'm using 1/4 panel patch panels from MILL SUPPLY, Cleveland, OH
Their body parts On-line Store site is rustrepair.com.
Order their print calatog too
They are primed and of 18 gauge steel - exact fit around wheel well arch and packaged very well for shipping.

http://www.rustrepair.com/PGPICS/fpu.92.jpg

#52 LH Upper wheel arch area 16"H x 40"L 87-98 $29.00 & RH

from the horizontal crease below camper top down to wheel arches and around the arches

exact fit = Will be able to weld w/no adjustments to it or the 1/4

And, I ordered it on 6 JUN 2011 @ 1225 hours and received on 8 JUN 2011 !!!

S & H cost for both from Cleveland, OH to NJ was $12.xx

Can use adhesive, but getting clamps will be $$$$ unless you can borrow some or do most of thewrok yourself and see if a local shop will use their adhesive gun & clamp them in place for a reasonable $..

Trim patch panels to fit over non-rust lip area; mine went up only 3 inches from lip outside edge; Use Rusat X or Rust Bullet/ or POR 15 or Rustoleoum primers on inside of patch to 1/4 weld or adhesive joint...


Someday, I'll go to a frankenstein Bronco body and replace 1/4s w/dually type 1/4s; maybe FG
But FG is $$$ and I tend to spend $ on drivetrain and over-maintenance.


AutoFab - Bronco/Ford truck/Ranger fiberglass fenders (& "Ashley style"), hoods, quarter panels, tailgate for 92-96; engine mounts for 80-96; 9" skid plates; 9" skid plate; pre-runner bumpers (92-96 Bronco/F150 w/skid plate; 89-91 w/out); Mastercraft racing seats; 80-96 Bronco/F150 4" front lifts for 16" wheel travel; Bronco/F150 rear lifts for 16" & 18" wheel travel
http://www.autofab.com/92-96.htm

Fiberwerx - 80-96 Bronco/Ford truck fiberglass fenders, hoods, quarter panels; one piece fiberglass front end for 80-96 Bronco, 92-96 off road & OEM style fiberglass & carbon fiber dashes with built-in center console & extra long console extension
http://www.fiberwerx.com/

McNeil Racing, Inc. & Perrys Fab n Fiber - 73-96 Bronco/Ford truck fiberglass fenders, hoods, quarter panels; one piece fiberglass front end for 80-96 Bronco, 73-79 Bronco Conversion to 96 Bronco, 92-96 off road & OEM style fiberglass & carbon fiber dashes with built-in center console (same as FiberwerX dashes)
http://www.mcneilracinginc.com/
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks, of course when I didn't need them there was a guy who had them local on craigslist for $200 for the pair.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well, its been a while since I've updated this thread, so here are some updates.

Unfortunately, what looked to be a pretty decent truck for up here was actually about a year or two from becoming what is your typical rotted Bronco in New England.

I made the decision to tear right into it now instead of putting everything off.

We cut out the rear section of the floor just above the rear crossmember because it was starting to lift at the edge, and to also get a better look at what we had underneath.

Unfortunately, this is what we found once we got in there with a hammer.


I knew it was there, but didnt realize it was that bad, so we decided to pull the quarters off and do it right, this was what had to be repaired on both sides


Once I got the quarters off I found a few other problems, typical thinning of the wheel wells on both sides, with some small holes on the passenger side, and a small area of rot on the passenger side cab corner as well.





I also found a small hole on the top of the rear xmember, but didnt get a picture of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The inner sheet metal on the quarters were covered in rust, so I ground that all down to prep for repair.





This weekend we started the patching

on the drivers side wheel well had no holes, so it was prepped and then a patch was welded over the existing panel, several holes were cut for plug welds, and then it was welded to the factory panel all around the cutouts for the seat belt bolts for support.



then we patched the xmember and cab corner





after that we cut out the rear mess and repaired it. After cutting off the outer skin we then patched the missing pieces on the inside and then installed full patches on the outside.





everything was seam sealed and then prepped for POR-15, end result was this

 

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Discussion Starter #7
I also pulled and sold the engine this weekend too. Its not advisable to pull the entire driveline as one unit, it was pretty ugly coming out.

 

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Good Job! Thats the toughest repair you can do on the bronco. If you can tackle that you can do anything.

While you have it all apart like that, I would go ahead and pull the A/C evaporator and blower out and clean the hell out of the inside of it.
If your gonna do A/C ever, this is the best time to do the evaporator as its a bit of a pain in the ass once the engine is back in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks, its certainly been a miserable couple of weeks working on getting this part done. I cant wait until next weekend when we can put the quarters back on and close this chapter of the build.

I actually already planned to pull the heater box assy out of the truck to make it easier to sound deaden the firewall. I will be sure to clean it thoroughly though.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks, my lungs have certainly not been happy with me from all that grinding. I bought some paper masks, but they dont seal for crap. Thankfully the most expensive part of this is going to be paying for the paint, and time in the spray booth. Though, hopefully that wont be too bad as my two bodyshop options are longtime family friends, one of them being my sisters godfather. One of my friends is doing all the prep work for paint, my shoulders just wont let me do that kinda stuff anymore.

Just gotta decide on color now.
 
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