Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Lads,
As an FYI, I had to replace my old factory motor for the rear window and went with a Dorman 742-251 Window Lift Motor from Amazon. It was about $27. The motor is strong and works good but I thought I'd throw you an FYI on the install. The plastic housing where the bolts attach is too fat, or at least it was on my Bronco. I had to grind the plastic housing down on the right side as you face it to allow it to fit into the space and facilitate turning the motor a little to align the bolt holes. I also ground the top of it, but may have not needed to, or at least not as much as I did. It seems to be a solid replacement part other than the fitment issues, but perhaps I can save you some swearing in the short term.

Sorry, I don't have photos, I'm not pulling it out again to take them, and I did get aggravated enough for a bit that I potentially could have thrown my phone in frustration.

Happy power window rolling!
Madman
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
34,846 Posts
Little late but I like to spread the tailgate tech around the site, as it's one of the most common issues a new Bronco owner has to deal with.

Somewhere around here, there's some mod info on adding a relay to the wire system, behind the d-side tail-light that will boost the power a bit for that long, long power line to the tailgate. Might help you get a little speedier up/down on that window. I also make it a point to replace the plastic gear bearings in the motors, as they tend to warp and eventually break down. Replacements are cheap but most window motors can be repaired by replacing those broke down plastic pucks.
Plastic pucks about to explode and the bearing I use to replace 'em (others have used steel nuts instead)...


Plastic pucks exploded...


Some warn that replacing the plastic with metal bearings or nuts will cause the plastic gear to break instead and that may be but I think we're buying a little more time with 'em. It's an option.

Also... always a good idea to clean out and lube the tracks, clean out the bottom of the gate from nasty debris and clear the drain holes that get clogged up over time and lead to our tailgates rusting out at the bottoms. I've even gone the extra step to replace the tailgate paper-skin that acts as a water-shed that keeps rain water from running down into the rear of the cab and rusting out the floor. Then there's the bypass to the "glass down" safety features but I digress.
I need to work on mine soon, so I'll be keeping my eye out for these grind and fit points you mentioned. Thanks.
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top