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Discussion Starter #1
Have found this site a great help. Have been trying to find threads that relate to my problem, one of the close but not quite. Have a 1995 302 EFI, she was running when I bought her a month ago but has been getting harder and harder to start. Have not checked codes, no reader. Have replaced the fuel filter, regulator, rotor, cap, wires, plugs and coil. Cranked right up after, but became harder later. The fuel pump primes(?), she turns and tries to start. Have primed several times before start, but still takes many attempts to finally crank. Friday used her to pull the boat for refuel, pulling out from the station had to punch it and she started to sputter and back fire, let off and slowly was able to get up to speed. Did the same with no load with the same result. Today no luck, it fires rough a bit then dies, intake sucking hard. Did the first few steps for timing to see where it was and looked to be two marks ahead of 10BTD. Of course the lable on the hood states timing cannot be adjusted. Have a few items in mind, timing, thottle sensor, idle air and fuel pump. Leaving battery disconnected over night to try a reset. Will be checking fuel pressure and timing this week, need to borrow tools.
Any other ideas would be appreciated.
 

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Have found this site a great help. Have been trying to find threads that relate to my problem, one of the close but not quite. Have a 1995 302 EFI, she was running when I bought her a month ago but has been getting harder and harder to start. Have not checked codes, no reader. Have replaced the fuel filter, regulator, rotor, cap, wires, plugs and coil. Cranked right up after, but became harder later. The fuel pump primes(?), she turns and tries to start. Have primed several times before start, but still takes many attempts to finally crank. Friday used her to pull the boat for refuel, pulling out from the station had to punch it and she started to sputter and back fire, let off and slowly was able to get up to speed. Did the same with no load with the same result. Today no luck, it fires rough a bit then dies, intake sucking hard. Did the first few steps for timing to see where it was and looked to be two marks ahead of 10BTD. Of course the lable on the hood states timing cannot be adjusted. Have a few items in mind, timing, thottle sensor, idle air and fuel pump. Leaving battery disconnected over night to try a reset. Will be checking fuel pressure and timing this week, need to borrow tools.
Any other ideas would be appreciated.
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44736
>
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/245234
 

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X2 on codes, borrow a reader if a friend has one. Its the easiest way to find if their is a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replys.
Tried to crank her again today after leaving ground off the battery all day, no luck. She seemed to try, a few cylinders firing and a rough short idle. Reminds me of a timing chain jump, but may be something in the eec codes. Found a digital reader on Amazon. Will order later this week.
 

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keep us posted on the findings, very interested what it is
 

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you need fuel air and spark to light off the engine.

check fuel pressure
pull codes
and check for spark

may also be a good idea to check compression.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for replys.
Went and tried some more shade tree tinkering. Code reader will be here Friday. Double checked plug wire placement and static timing, ok. When I plulled the number one plug it was wet, so she's getting fuel, and does try to fire. Thinking that the idle air valve may be stuck or bad. Will read voltage and resistance tomarow.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Jopes, fishing is why I bought her. Was using my Dodge Dakota 5.9 R/T to pull the boat and decided it wasn't the best thing for it.
 

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i know this may sound stupid, but when i did a tune up on my truck like a year and a half ago i did everything to spec except one thing, i installed the wires onto the cap in a counter clockwise order instead of clockwise, or however that works, it was reversed none the less. try checking that
 

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if the plugs are wet, put the pedal on the floor and crank it till it fires.

what does the spark look like? it should not be a weak spark.

Have the TFI checked.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Got the reader and pulled codes. Was not able to warm the engine up, so I had a O:116 ect, and 636 tct, and a C:556 fpr. The ect and tct are to be expected since the engine was cold but the fpr is puzzeling since the pump seems to run as expected, at key on and when it is running. These were the only codes. Will return to square one to see if I overlooked something. TFI is next on the list, Jopes.
 

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Got the reader and pulled codes. Was not able to warm the engine up, so I had a O:116 ect, and 636 tct, and a C:556 fpr. The ect and tct are to be expected since the engine was cold but the fpr is puzzeling since the pump seems to run as expected, at key on and when it is running. These were the only codes. Will return to square one to see if I overlooked something. TFI is next on the list, Jopes.
an ect code is not set unless it fall out of parameter. If you have an ect code then there is a problem with the ect.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Had to replace the starter today, it's been getting a workout. The bottom bolt was a mother and took some time, with the battery disconnected and it cleared all codes, now I get a 111. Still not starting tho. Set timing to the steps in tech "How to properly set the timing on a 302 or 351". All seems to be in alignment, 10 BTC and rotor pointing to #1 (tward intake). Have fuel and have spark, just don't know if they are together. Letting the battery change over night, and will hit it with a timing light in the morning to see if all does line up. Will ponder this for the rest of the night, and see what happens tomarow. I am at the end of what I know.
 

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Sam,
I see that you are still online, so I'll post quickly.

You need fuel air spark and compression. You may want to check your compression, if you haven't thought of that before.
I'll read through the whole thread and see if I can be more helpful.
 

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Sam,
You may be able to borrow a fuel pressure guage from a chain auto parts store, such as autozone, or pep boys. Some have a tool loaner program where you leave a deposit, and get it back.

If the problem is the ect, I am pretty sure that if you disconnect it, the engine will still start.

Another thing that you may want to give a good look for is a vacuum leak. Look for dry rotted hoses, and connections. Check the PCV valve and grommet.
 

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For crying out loud pull the ect connector, hold the pedal to the floor and see if it cranks.
 

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Here's my favorite way to narrow this down:

I'm assuming the problem you are referring to is excessive cranking before engine turns over....

First see if the truck is the hardest to turn over after it has been sitting (ie overnight, or even for an hour or 2), once it is running, shut it off and try to restart... If it restarts fine, this is usually an injector leakdown issue (pintle seat sealing failure). Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail, turn the key on (do not start) to let the system prime, then turn off key and wait, while watching pressure gauge. If the gauge falls significanly after a few hours, replace the injectors.

In most cases this problem is really sneaky and produces no codes (since injectors function normally once engine is running), and this is not something any EEC sensor is capable of detecting.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Was going over every thing I had done and remembered the 556 code. Picked up a fuel pressure guage and checked had 20lb bled off and fan the pump and nothing. Tried a couple more times and heard the pitch change in the pump and pressure again. Replacing the pump. Have come to realize that most eveything on my truck is original, and can be quite a challange to remove. Should have the tank back on today and see how we do.
Thanks for the advise. Tunnel vision's a b**ch.
 
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