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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I went to move the Broco today and as soon as I placed the shif lever into D "drive" the engine stalled out. I put it in Neutral and tried it again. Same thing over and over again. I moved it forward about 10 feet this way and was able to back up in reverse to get it off of the curb with no problems. It only dies when in Forward gear.

Is this a common problem and one that is easy to fix with out pulling the transmission?

PLEASE HELP !
 

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Have you checked the fluid level in the transmission?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Would that make it stall? does it have to be running to check and in gear if so?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
looked under the hood for a trans dipstick but could not find one to check fluid levels. I also read a couple of other threads on the subject and found that I can place the truck in first gear and it will stay running. I'm thinking this might indicate a bad Torque Converter but am open to all logical and reasonable suggestions to look at prior to replacing a torque converter.
 

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Have you pulled codes?
when placed into drive, does the engine stumble/struggle and then die or does it placing it into gear immediately kill the engine?
 

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looked under the hood for a trans dipstick but could not find one to check fluid levels.
It's on the passenger side, placed stupidly low down by the AC/heater box.

My immediate guess would be something with the IAC...not providing enough airflow in gear (at idle) to keep the engine running.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It takes about a second to die. I guess you could say it stumbles a bit before stalling.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have not pulled the codes yet. I have the OBDI code reader but will have to learn how to pull the codes again.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok pulled codes KOEO. 10, 211 & 629.

Also checked trans fluid running but cold with out side air temp at 58F. Looked high over the upper limit so decided to take if for a drive a couple towns away down hwy 99 from Stockton to manteca. Presently in the drive thru at Inn n Out waiting for food and will drive back home. Should be a long enough drive to bring everything up to operating temps.

What is the procedure while using the Ford inova code reader with KOER? Start vehicle turn wheel left right brake pedal and pedal to the floor or am I missing the overdrive button somewhere in there?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just checked the transmission fluid and it still seems to be high while parked and running at operating temps.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I found this info on F150 forum found here How-To: retrieve trouble codes- OBDI - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

The engine should be at normal operating temperature for all tests.

Locate the self test connectors on the drivers side inner fender well. You can find these, by finding the one which looks similar to the shape of a house. Hook up with a jumper wire as shown in the diagram below. Turn your key forward to the RUN position (KOEO, key on, engine off), and wait for the codes. Codes will flash out on the CHECK ENGINE or SERVICE ENGINE SOON light. If you have hooked up a voltmeter, the needle on the voltmeter will indicate the digits of the trouble codes in sweeps of the needle. Record all codes and identify them as KOEO codes.


Each number will be shown in blinks of the light or sweeps of the needle. For example: 2 quick flashes, two second pause, 3 quick flashes indicate code 23. Three digit codes will be displayed in the same manner with an extra 2 second pause then the third digit. If more than one code is stored, there will be a 4 second pause between the next code.

After the KOEO codes are displayed, the continuous codes will be displayed. Continuous codes follow the last KOEO code after a 6 to 9 second pause, a quick flash, and another 6 to 9 second pause. Record these codes as continuous codes. Turn key off and remove the jumper wire.

Last you will perform an engine running test.
Start the engine and run at 2000 RPM for two minutes to warm sensors. Turn off engine and wait 10 seconds. Install jumper wire, start the engine and let it idle. Watch for the engine identification code. It will be 3 flashes for a six cylinder and 4 flashes for an 8 cylinder. If your vehicle is equipped with the E4OD transmission, press and release the brake pedal immediately after the ID code. This tests the brake on/off switch. If your vehicle is equipped with a power steering pressure sensor (4.9 and 5.0 '87-'90 and '93 5.0 without E4OD) turn the steering wheel at least a half turn and return immediately after the ID code (or after the brake test). Next, watch for a single quick flash. If it occurs, floor the gas pedal and release quickly to perform a wide open throttle test. NOTE: Do not perform the wide open throttle test unless indicated to do so, as not all models use this test. Now the codes will be displayed. Record and identify these codes as engine running codes. After the codes are displayed, turn off the engine and remove the jumper wire.

To clear codes, during the KOEO test remove the jumper wire before all codes are displayed. Or as an alternate method you may disconnect the battery to clear them. Disconnecting the battery will cause the loss of the computer memory that adapts to your driving style, so this method will cause a different running condition until the computer relearns your driving style. This isn't a big deal, most people clear codes by disconnecting the battery. It is important to remember to clear codes any time work has been done so old codes aren't present.




I have added this picture because there are a few people who have said they can't see the diagram. You can see the two connectors jumped together with the blue wire. The white wire will be the voltmeter negative lead and the voltmeter positive will go to the battery positive. You don't need to hook up a voltmeter if your vehicle has a check engine light in the dash.


NOTE- A volt meter is NOT required when you have a good CEL bulb.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
No one has any other suggestions or advice to the questions I’ve been asking?
 

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Ok pulled codes KOEO. 10, 211 & 629.
...
No one has any other suggestions or advice to the questions I’ve been asking?
Did you look up what those codes correspond to?

211 = Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) circuit fault
629 = Converter clutch solenoid circuit failure or lock-up solenoid circuit fault.

The only 10 I'm aware of is for Cylinder #1 Problem in the Cylinder Balance Test Procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
When I read through the manual yesterday it states that code 10 is just a separator between codes and it actually does not represent any error codes. Yes I got the same thing when I looked up the codes. Not sure what I should be looking for or replacing though.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So far I have not been able to find definitive instructions for how to perform the KOER test for fault codes. I understand that KOER should not be ferformed until all KOEO have been repaired and no longer report any errors or the code reader indicates 111 representing all is good with the repairs.
 

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Yo N2,

E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) is a LED and overdrive on/off switch at end of the Transmission shifter stalk; flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Was it flashing while idling in Park or Neutral??

Possibilities w/NO CODES:
miesk5 note, Ford tech writers, engineers, etc weren't updating model years for many technical service bulletins by 1995, such as this;
Engine Stall During Transmission Engagement TSB 97-24-23 Bronco, 96-97 Vans & F Series, 97 Expedition, 98 Navigator, 96-97 F-53 Motorhome;
Some vehicles may stall when the transmission is placed into gear. This may be caused by the transmission fluid filter becoming detached and/or loose.
Install a new design fluid filter and seal assembly. The new design has legs molded into the plastic filter cover (Figure 1). This new design filter does not require using the rectangular transmission pan magnet.

96newdesigne4odfilter.gif

Follow all the normal diagnostic procedures outlined in the appropriate model/year Service Manual. Repair as required. If all normal diagnostics fail to correct the problem, refer to the collowing Steps.
Remove the transmission fluid pan to determine if the transmission fluid filter has dropped down or is not firmly seated in the pump bore.
If the filter has dropped down into the pan, discard the filter assembly and remove the filter seal from the pump bore.
CAUTION: BE CAREFUL NOT TO SCRATCH OR DAMAGE THE PUMP BORE WHEN REMOVING THE SEAL.
NOTE: DO NOT REMOVE THE ORIGINAL FLUID PAN MAGNET FROM THE FLUID PAN OTHER THAN TO CLEAN AND REINSTALL.
Install a new Filter and Seal Assembly (F6TZ-7A098-AB: 4X2, F6TZ-7A098-BB: 4X4). Refer to Figure 1.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE THE RECTANGULAR TRANSMISSION PAN MAGNET WHEN USING EITHER OF THESE NEW DESIGN FILTER AND SEAL ASSEMBLIES.
CAUTION: DO NOT REPLACE A REUSABLE PAN GASKET WITH A CORK GASKET, THIS MAY RESULT IN A TRANSMISSION FLUID LEAK. CLEAN AND REUSE UNLESS DAMAGED. REPLACE CORK GASKET WITH CORK GASKETS.
Refill transmission as required using MERCON® Multipurpose Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) (XT-2-QDX).
F6TZ-7A098-BB Filter And Seal Assembly (4X4)
XT-2-QDX MERCON® Multipurpose Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)

•••
Filter Magnet; E4OD Kills Engine in Gear; "...works as a filter retainer; w/Ford PN and size; basically this is a magnet Ford uses to keep the filter in-place tightly into the pump; Ford pn F3RZ-7E290-AC..."
Source: by spxfiltran.com via web.archive

e40dfiltermagnet.gif

•••
□■□

DTC 211 indicates two successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall. Possible causes: Loose wires/connectors. Arcing secondary ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.). On-board transmitter (2-way radio).

ISSUE: '93-95 light truck vehicles with 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L, or 7.5L gas engines may exhibit various driveability symptoms, such as no start, no spark, hesitation/stumble/stall/miss and/or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 211.

See TSB 95-15-11 Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark - DTC 211
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/babarche/2009-09-28_180638_TSB_95-15-11_Wires_shorting_near_ignition_module.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiLufrqyP_dAhUBJt8KHai_BeMQFjADegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw2EyO4DSPLLIpe8Y1w9OyA7
See depictions.
Overview:The symptoms may occur during any drive mode or at idle. These concerns may be caused by the shielding drain wire (Circuit 48.) cutting through the insulation of, and shorting to, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) wire (Circuit 395) or the spark output (SPOUT) wire (Circuit 929) near the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 60-pin connector. A protruding wire from Splice 145 may also cause the same concern as the wire strand shorts to the PIP, SPOUT, or the foil wrap surrounding the drain wire.

ACTION: Inspect PIP - Circuit 395 (GY/O), Ignition Ground (IGN GND) - Circuit 259 (O/R), and SPOUT - Circuit 929 (PK) for possible cut insulation from Circuit 48. Also, inspect Splice 145 - Circuit 395 (GY/O) for stray wire strands. If wire insulation is cut, exposing copper wire, repair cut insulation with 3M Mastic Tape. Refer to the following procedure for service details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. If vehicle has the speed control option, remove the speed control servo bracket and position it out of the way for improved access.
3. Disconnect the connector at the Ignition Control Module (ICM - formerly TFI).
4. Unbolt the 60-pin connector from the PCM and pull the wiring up to work on.
5. Remove the 1" (25.4mm) diameter convoluted tubing from the wiring assembly. The date code tag will remain taped to the convoluted tubing.
6. Remove/cut the tape of the wiring assembly. Work toward the the ICM connector (pull back convoluted tubing as needed).
7. Unravel aluminum foil tape and electrical drain wire (Circuit 48.) from main bundle, exposing the junction or "Y" splice between the ICM tapeout and the PCM tapeout. Be careful with the foil wrap because it will be reused.
NOTE: THE FOIL WRAP LENGTH WILL BE ABOUT 5" (127mm) BEYOND THE "Y" BRANCH. THE END WILL BE TOWARD THE ICM CONNECTOR.
8. After the foil wrap is removed, look for the three (3) "grouped" wires in question at the "Y" splice. The three (3) wires are: PIP - Circuit 395 (GY/O), IGN GND - Circuit 259 (O/R), and SPOUT - Circuit 929 (PK).
9. Locate the (bare) electrical drain wire. Wire end is toward the ICM connector, again, about 5" (127mm) from the "Y" splice. Unravel wire from the top (ICM) end and down to the area where the bare wire makes contact with the three (3) wires mentioned above.
10. Inspect for any damage to the insulation of the three (3) wires in question. If wire insulation is cut, exposing copper wire, repair cut insulation with 3M Electrical Moisture Sealant-Mastic Tape (3M Part No. 054007-06147).
11. Inspect Splice 145 - Circuit 395 (GY/O) for stray wire strands (Figure 3). If stray wire is found, apply pressure on the wire with pliers to bend the wire down and wrap the splice with three (3) layers of flame retardant vinyl tape, or equivalent, to ensure the wire does not make contact with other wires or the foil wrap.
12. Carefully rewrap the bare electrical drain wire and foil. Work backward, toward the ICM connector end. Tape end of foil wrap to secure.
13. Retape worked area securely (between PCM and ICM connectors) with flame retardant vinyl tape, or equivalent.
14. Reinstall all convoluted tubing and tape ends of tubing to the tubing with flame retardant vinyl tape, or equivalent.
15. Reinstall PCM connector to the PCM.
16. Reinstall the ICM connector.
17. Reinstall the speed control servo bracket (two bolts) if applicable, and tighten bolts to 15-18 N-m (11-13 lb-ft).
18. Reconnect battery ground cable.

Miesk5 NOTE; use BLACK Motorcraft DY 1077 Ignition Modules in 94-96 Broncos. Rock Auto sells genuine ICMs
On 21 May, 2019 I purchased a 96 Ford Bronco 5.0 ignition control module, Motorcraft® DY 1077 from Rock Auto.

I received it 23 May and noticed the usual Motorcraft® logo wasn't impressed on it.
The box looked the same as what I have purchased in past from our local Ford dealership.

I e mailed Ford Global Brand Protection and asked, "is this is a genuine Motorcraft® part?"
Here's the reply;
"After reviewing the information you provided, the part you purchased appears to be genuine. The OE current model part does not have a Motorcraft/Ford logo on it and looks like the part in your photo. Since the vehicle model year for this part is very old the supplier of the part most likely has changed. Also we have not had any prior issues with Rock Auto selling non-genuine parts."
Lisa W.
Ford Motor Company
Global Brand Protection
"What Is Global Brand Protection?
The Global Brand Protection group exists to protect the consumer by ensuring high quality original equipment parts are used in your vehicle that are recommended by Ford Motor Company. Counterfeit products potentially compromise consumer expectations because they do not meet Ford Motor Company’s rigorous testing and quality control standards.
Global Brand Protection focuses on:
Preventing the distribution of and removing counterfeit parts from the marketplace
Ensuring that the company’s trademarks are used appropriately
Maintaining the integrity of the sale and distribution of Genuine Ford parts..."
Ford | Global Brand Protection

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DTCs 91/621, 92/622, 93/626, 94, 629, 641 and 652 indicate solenoid did not change state when requested by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
DTC 566 or 629 indicates the CCO or SS3/4-4/3 did not change state when requested by the PCM.
Possible causes:
Damaged solenoid/assembly.
Open or shorted harness (internal/external).
Damaged PCM.
Note: Do not use a STAR Tester for this step. Use a VOM or DVOM.
Disconnect electrical connector on the speed control servo, if equipped.
VOM/DVOM on 20 volt scale.
Connect negative test lead to STO circuit at Data Link Connector (DLC) and meter positive test lead to B+.
Jumper STI circuit to SIG RTN at the DLC.
miesk5 Note, here is the DLC PIN DIAGRAM;


Perform Key On Engine Off Self-Test until Continuous Memory DTC have been displayed.
VOM/DVOM will indicate less than 1.0 volt when test is complete.
Depress and release throttle.
Does voltage increase?
Yes REMAIN in Output State DTM. GO to TC2.
No DEPRESS throttle to WOT and RELEASE. If STO voltage does not go high, PERFORM Pinpoint Test Step QC1. Leave equipment hooked up.

TC2 CHECK SOLENOID ELECTRICAL OPERATION
Key on, engine off.
Disconnect transmission connector.
Using a mirror, inspect both ends of the connector for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.
Refer to the schematic and table of this Pinpoint Test.
Connect VOM/DVOM positive test lead to VPWR circuit and negative test lead to solenoid circuit of the transmission vehicle harness connector.
miesk5 Note, here is the 95 E4OD Solenoid Connector pin diagram;

VOM/DVOM on 20 volt scale.
While observing DVOM, depress and release throttle several times to cycle solenoid output ON and OFF.
Does the suspect solenoid output voltage change at least 0.5 volt?
Yes RECONNECT connector. REFER to the Transmission Group in the Service Manual.
No REMOVE jumper wire. GO to TC3.

TC3 CHECK CONTINUITY OF SOLENOID SIGNAL AND VPWR HARNESS CIRCUITS
Key off.
Solenoid transmission connector disconnected.
Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.
Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected.

➡ miesk5 Note; this set of tests includes use of Ford's old Break-Out Box; so, as I mentioned in another thread here; In place of the break-out box, go to the EEC connector pin instead; substitute EEC connector pin Number for breakout box number. Using;
EEC IV Connector Pin Diagram
Source: by Ryan M at

EEC IV Connector Pin LEGEND Bronco & Ford Truck & Van: 4.9, 460, 5.0, 5.8;
Section 07-01A: Transmission, Automatic, E4OD1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGProcedure revision date: 06/22/2000
Pinpoint Tests that a Ford mechanic would do;

Drive Cycle Procedure
Purpose of
Drive Cycle Procedure
Drive Cycle
Preparation​
1. Install scan tool. Turn key on with the engine off. Cycle key off, then on. Select appropriate Vehicle & Engine qualifier. Clear all DTC's/ Perform a PCM Reset.Bypasses engine soak timer. Resets OBDII Monitor status.
2. Begin to monitor the following PIDs: ECT, EVAPDC, FLI (if available) and TP MODE.
Start vehicle WITHOUT returning to Key Off.
3. Idle vehicle for 15 seconds. Drive at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) until ECT is at least 76.7°C (170° F).
Prep for Monitor Entry​
4. Is IAT within 4.4 to 37.8°C (40 to 100° F)? If Not, complete the following steps but, note that step 14 will be required to "bypass " the Evap monitor and clear the P1000.Engine warm-up and provide IAT input to the PCM.
HEGO​
5. Cruise at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) for up to 4 minutes.Executes the HEGO monitor.
EVAP​
6. Cruise at 72 to 104 Km/h (45 to 65 MPH) for 10 minutes (avoid sharp turns and hills) Note, to initiate the monitor: TP MODE should =PT, EVAPDC must be >75%, and FLI must be between 15 and 85%Executes the EVAP Monitor (If IAT is within 4.4 to 37.8° (40 to 100°F))
Catalyst​
7. Drive in stop and go traffic conditions. Include five different constant cruise speeds, ranging from 40 to 72 Km/h (25 to 45 MPH) over a 10 minute period.Executes the Catalyst Monitor.
EGR​
8. From a stop, accelerate to 72 Km/h (45 MPH) at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Repeat 3 times.Executes the EGR Monitor.
SEC AIR/CCM (Engine)​
9. Bring the vehicle to a stop. Idle with transmission in drive (neutral for M/T) for 2 minutes.Executes the ISC portion of the CCM.
CCM (Trans)​
10. For M/T, accelerate from 0 to 80 Km/h (o to 50 MPH), continue to step 11. For A/T, from a stop and in overdrive, moderately accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop vehicle and repeat without overdrive to 64 Km/h (40 MPH) cruising for at least 30 seconds. While at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) , activate overdrive and accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop for at least 20 seconds and repeat step 10 five times.Executes the transmission portion of the CCM.
Misfire & Fuel Monitors11. From a stop, accelerate to 104 Km/h (65 MPH). Decelerate at closed throttle until 64 Km/h (40 MPH) (no brakes). Repeat this 3 times.Allows learning for the misfire monitor.
Readiness Check12. Access the ON-Board System Readiness (OBDII monitor status) function on the scan tool. Determine whether all non-continuous monitors have completed. If not, go to step 13.Determines if any monitor has not completed.
Pending Code Check and Evap Monitor "Bypass" Check13. With the scan tool, check for pending codes. Conduct normal repair procedures for any pending code concern. Otherwise, rerun any incomplete monitor.
Note: if the EVAP monitor is not complete AND IAT was out of the 4.4 to 37.8° C (40 to 100° F) temperature range in step #4, or the altitude is over 2438 m. (8000 ft.), the Evap "bypass" procedure must be followed.
Proceed to step 14.
Determines if a pending code is preventing the clearing of P1000.
Evap Monitor "Bypass"​
14. Park vehicle for a minimum of 8 hours. Repeat steps 2 through 12. DO NOT REPEAT STEP 1.

 

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It sounds like a vacuum leak to me. I have had the same symptoms before and found out it was a vacuum leak between my carb and intake mainifold.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
thank you m5 as always you come through with a plethera of information. I'll do what I can with regards to checking on some of those key points you mentioned and ask for help on how to do some of the steps I'm not familiar with or understand.

klh95 I am not aware that my 95 5.8L Cali Bronco has a Carburetor. Does it ???
 

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thank you m5 as always you come through with a plethera of information. I'll do what I can with regards to checking on some of those key points you mentioned and ask for help on how to do some of the steps I'm not familiar with or understand.

klh95 I am not aware that my 95 5.8L Cali Bronco has a Carburetor. Does it ???
I didn't mean to imply you had a carburetor, I said it sounded like a vacuum leak. I was just referring to my experience with my old truck.

You could still have a vacuum leak somewhere causing this problem...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yes klh95 any thing is possible.
 
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