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2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What’s up fellas. I got a 1995 XLT and the driver door has been rattling when I hit bumps and such. I think it’s coming from the lock inside the the door panel. Anyone experienced this? Or recommendations on what to swap out. Much appreciated

Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
16,089 Posts
As stated by @MS88Bronc , just make sure that before you remove the old striker, you use a sharpie to make around the striker assembly so you can put it back in the right place..otherwise, you'll have trouble opening and closing your door..good luck.

Premium Member
If it is not a Bronco, it's just not worth driving.....
1,899 Posts
This may not be your problem since you suspect the noise is coming from the lock area but, I found several items, mostly nuts and screws down in the bottom of my door. The previous owner had dropped them and never retrieved them. They rattled when I went over bumps and when I closed the door.

I even found a Snap on flashlight at the bottom of the drivers door. I fished it out and got a charger and the battery and light were fine. I still use it today.

Super Moderator
28,821 Posts
Yo ethood.
As advised on the bushings.
btw, watch out for the Dorman HELP brand stuff now....the driver/passenger door striker kit w/ bushings, 38445 are not fffin good..bushing diameter is way off and striker frame is off as will bolt-in, but aligning it for a no-rattle fit is a waste of time and possible damage to passenger or driver.

Local dealership may have them too, but at a higher cost.

the Dorman HELP tail gate striker bushings pn 38424 are a good fit & the door bushings driver/passenger bushings are incl. in this kit & fit better than the 38445 part! Made from urethane thermoplastic. assortment contains 2 each of the following sizes: 1/2" I.D. x 5/8" and 1/2" I.D. x 1" which includes the Tail Gate Striker bushings.
DOORMAN HELP Bushings are avail @ almost all ADVANCE AUTO, NAPA, Auto Zone, etc.

There is a Captive Nut Plate; "...the strike bolt is a T50 (like the seat belt bolts). A cordless impact is invaluable. I also recommend some padded prybars to lift/slide the door without chipping the paint. As you can see in the pic under #1, you'll need a few extensions & a ratchet to break & set the bolts. All of the nut plates in the body are loose (for adjustments), but captive (they shouldn't fall if the fastener is removed), but anything can happen. If one falls, just remove the interior trim panel & retrieve it. To reinstall the strike bolt nut plate, you'll need to remove the bedside panel & peel the butyl (tar) pad away. The plate itself will be behind the shoulder reel on the floor, or on the bag of wadding crammed in down there..." I believe Bossind posted this awhile ago.

Door lock latch, "lubricate linkage, use Multi-Purpose Grease Spray D7AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESR-M1C159-A and ESB-M1C106-B." by Ford

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1,337 Posts
Redneck fix

Get a length of garden hose and cut a piece to replace the rubber part of the door striker. A little duck tape and your good to go.

This is one of my pet peeves when riding in my Bronco. I know it is a old truck... but if you slam my door.... next time you can walk.
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