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Okay I meant to post this earlier. Timing cover / water pump bolts. They always corrode and break. Mustang bolt kits aren't right for the trucks. I can tell you the picture I'm attaching is someone else's (F150 forum) and I'm pretty sure it's a 351. I do know there were differences in the bolt sizes he posted - so I'll post what I measured off two different stock '96 Bronco 302 engines and what I ordered from Bolt Depot.

FYI I ordered Grade 5 zinc coated bolts for timing cover, water pump, intake manifold, block off plugs for the Thermactor holes in the heads, longer bolts for mating up engines / bellhousing and other odds and ends plus washers and extras in just about everything... @ $25 shipped from BoltDepot.com

View attachment 154279

All bolts 5/16-18
A = 2" bolts - no needs for studs.
D= 2"
E = 2.25"
F = 4" bolt
G = 4" bolt
H = 2.65"
I = the long stud with the smooth end for mounting the PS / AC bracket on
J = 5.1" stud - but no need for a stud, bolt will do.

Keep in mind - if you have a '96 302 you have an OEM CPS / misfire sensor that the timing pointer mounts on studs on two of these bolts. I'm using bolts - I'm keeping the pointer and ditching the CPS / misfire sensor since I've got a '96 engine going in a '95 Bronco

Keep in mind I ordered extras and I also ordered new lower intake bolts

View attachment 154280

I ordered washers as well.
This post should be stickied.


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Discussion Starter #202
I have everything documented - but I wanted to wait until I took each new bolt I ordered and compared it to the original bolt. I'll take pics and post it up. Then a sticky would make sense. It was easy for me this time around because both engines I removed / tore down were untouched and factory.
 

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Discussion Starter #203
I put enough time into these valve covers. The Evap Rust worked better than anything else getting the scale / surface rust off. Scrubbed them down, sanded a bit. Primer and paint. They aren't perfect. But again this isn't a show truck

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Scrubbed the upper manifold down - sanded a bit. Some primer and some of the duplicolor cast coat aluminum.

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Started pulling the valve train parts out of the containers. I've had them soaking in Oil Eater.

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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Gotta love engine porn! (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #205
Got the thermactor plugs installed in the cylinder heads. Couldn't find a 5/8 - 11 tap locally, so I took a Grade 8 bolt, and cut some grooves into it with my Dremel to make a makeshift thread cleaner.

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Discussion Starter #206
Well I was all set to do a post about replacing all the water pump / timing cover bolts - and apparently either bolt depot did not include my 4" bolts I ordered (2 of the Water pump / timing cover bolts are 4" with studs on one end) or I misplace 'em. I'll look around tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #207
Gotta love engine porn! (y)
@cobrajoe
Just dawned on me looking at my pics. You think the teflon thread sealant is good for those thermactor plugs or should I use something else?
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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It will be fine, I have actually put them in dry with no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #209

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Discussion Starter #210
Too much other crap going on around here to get anything done to the Bronco. Although I did manage to finally find an adjustable shop stool with a backrest - so I could work on stuff on the bench without hunching over all the time.


On sale for $64.99 down from $79.99. Here's what's funny - if you go IN the store - it's marked down to $49.99.

Hope to finish cleaning up the last two cylinders worth of valve train components tonight and hopefully get to start assembling the cylinder heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #211
Was able to get a bit of time in the shop after work last night. Got the water pump and water outlet primed and painted.

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Got the last of the valve train components cleaned up and ready for install.

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Started assembling the cylinder heads - which starts with new valve stem seals.

Here's how I do it - YMMV.

Make sure everything is CLEAN. Seriously.
I use a shop rag placed under the cylinder head to hold the valve I just slid into place so I can get everything installed.

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Then flip the cylinder down. And you've got this:

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I use the Fel Pro seals. They come with a plastic "install tool" that simply slides over the valve stem. I use a bit of clean oil to lube the outside of the valve and the outside of the valve guide (Where the valve seals slides down onto)

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Then I take one of the valve retainers from one of the intake valves, flip it over and use it and a dead blow hammer and an appropriate sized deep well socket if needed (being gentle - it shouldn't take much effort to seat the seal all the way down on the valve guide.

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Then put the valve spring in place, the valve retainer and use the valve spring compressor to compress the spring so you can install the keepers. Me personally, I use a bit of assembly grease on the outside of the keepers, so I can use a small screwdriver or my finger tip to grab each keeper and put it in place.

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Slide the keepers in place, then release the valve spring compressor and you're left with this:

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Hopefully I'll finish up cylinder head assembly tonight, chase all the rest of the threads on the heads and the head bolts on the block, install new dowels and head gaskets and get the heads installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #212
Finally got some wrench time

Got the new head gaskets, new dowel plugs and cylinder heads installed - including new Fel Pro head bolts.

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Got the cleaned up valvetrain installed loosely - next up replacing the timing chain / gears.

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Starting to look like an engine
 
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