Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

341 - 353 of 353 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,251 Posts
Discussion Starter · #341 ·
Well the MAF connector / clip on the 1996 parts truck is broken too. So hit up RockAuto, got the OEM # and crossed the part number was able to order a replacement connector / pigtail from Amazon for $10. Hoping I can depin the connector and install it, without having to splice wires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,251 Posts
Discussion Starter · #342 ·
Without trying to jinx myself - I'm going to say that the hesitation / stuttering problem and all the codes (all related to lean conditions) were caused by the old Fram fuel filter I replaced.

The entire filtering element inside the fuel filter had come loose. I'm betting that it got moved around enough by the fuel flow going through the fuel filter that it blocked / restricted the fuel flow to the engine enough to cause the lean codes and the running issues.

It makes sense. The problem initially occurred after a cold start, maybe 15 minutes down the road. Problem was still there when I drove out to where the kid had pulled over the Bronco. I drove it a bit, and it was still stuttering / hesitating at anything over 1/2 throttle. Ended up parking it overnight.

When we got back to the truck the next morning, it fired right up with NO issues. I pulled the codes, and all of them related to lean fuel conditions. Cleared the codes, and it drove fine. Got maybe 20 miles down the road and it started hesitating / stuttering at Interstate speeds. Not as bad as before - but throwing lean codes again.

I drove it and had the kid follow in the F150. It was hesitating, but it wasn't horrible. Got it another 10 miles down the road or so and pulled over. All I did was clear the codes and it drove fine all the way home. It sat for a few days, while waiting on parts. Replaced the fuel filter with a Motorcraft and it's run fine since.

Then I dealt with the squealing and water pump leak. Turns out the noise was from the power steering pump - I apparently didn't seat the pulley all the way when I installed the rebuilt Saginaw pump when I went through the engine.

I unplugged the MAF to clean the sensor and noticed the locking tab on the connector was broken. So then I went down the rabbit hole of trying to find a new connector.

Now if you look up a replacement MAF sensor for a 1995 5.0 Bronco you get the SAME part number as a 1996 Bronco 5.0 MAF.

But after comparison - there is NO way a 1996 5.0 MAF will work on a 1995 5.0. The housing on the sensor and the connector itself are totally different. In fact the sensor itself, the connectors - they simply don't match up (comparing 1995 to1996).

Here's the original 1995 5.0 MAF connector

177212


Notice the oval connector face

177213


Here's the replacement 1995 MAF - note the notch on the housing.

177214


Here's the replacement 1996 MAF connector - not it's a 6 cavity connector but on the 1996 Bronco it only has 4 wires.

177215


Here's the OEM 1996 5.0 MAF. No way it'll work on a 1995 or vice versa.

After some digging I found a common 4 wire MAF connector used on a lot of MAF swaps. It IS a bit different than my connector - but I went ahead and ordered it to see if it works.

177216


That bottom slot differs from my original connector but it's the only thing I can find, even after digging through the Motorcraft pigtail connector catalog.

After a bunch of digging............turns out that the OEM 1996 Bronco 5.0 MAF sensor actually cross references to a 1997 Ford Explorer 5.0............

We'll see if the connector works once it comes in...........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,251 Posts
Discussion Starter · #344 ·
Only real difference between the 4 and 6 wire MAF sensors is the 6 had the IAT internal.
Yup - the issue is that the 96 MAF Bronco (5.0 and 5.8 use the same MAF) is still 4 wire, but use a 6 wire plug / shroud. Unlike the 95 MAF which use a 4 wire shroud jacket. After a lot of digging around, it looks like this 95 MAF connector might be a one year only stop gap kind of thing. I've literally browsed hundreds of pages of connector catalogs - with zero matches.

The 1995 Mustang MAF connector (commonly used on MAF conversion kits) is CLOSE - but it's missing a slot in the connector / shroud that the 1995 has. I think at this point I'm simply going to install the 1996 MAF housing and sensor, use the new connector and just repin it with the 1995 wiring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,251 Posts
Discussion Starter · #345 ·
Well the THREE is now TWO. Ran across a post on a Facebook group where I guy from Maryland was looking for a rot free frame for his Bronco project. Ended up making a deal on the 1993 EB parts truck. Sold it with clean title - and it look like it may live on, as he said the body was straighter and in better shape than his.

I did pull the BW1356 out of the 1995 with the motor and wiring for a spare for the 1995 and I grabbed the spare tire holder as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,251 Posts
Discussion Starter · #346 ·
Okay - kid has been driving the Bronco with no issues. He goes on a longer trip the other day - approx 150 miles round trip. The CEL came on while he was on the way back home. Of course he's paranoid, so he's listening / paying attention - truck ran perfectly fine. He brings the Bronco by the house the next morning. CEL is lit.

Pulled codes.

Got a lean voltage MAF code. Also a lean O2 sensor code and a fuel injector lean code.

So at this point here's where I am - I have a new EGR valve to go in (had it for a while), new O2 sensor (I think what's on there now is original), a new NTK MAF and I just ordered a new fuel pump and locking ring / gasket.

All these lean codes and I never replaced the fuel pump on this truck. I'd rather just do it now and be done. Going to forgo the access panel and drop the tank. I don't have rust issues underneath and I REALLY want to clean / flush the tank out. Ordered a Delphi pump and new locking ring and gasket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,251 Posts
Discussion Starter · #347 ·
Got the new Delphi fuel pump and NTK MAF sensor in, started this afternoon. The benefit to having a rust free truck? Bolts comes out.

Used my harbor freight transmission jack - perfect size height. Got the 8 skid plate bolts out, Got the fuel lines disconnected, breather hose disconnected, wiring disconnected..........took maybe 30-45 minutes?

179110


WORST part of this job by far was getting the tank empty. Yes, I know I could cut an access panel - but I've never had this tank out, and I figure eyes on couldn't hurt - not to mention the thought of cutting a bedlined / insulated / rust free floor kind of bothers me. I didn't a longer hose, that I could find. So we dropped it with it about 1/4 full. So 8-9 gallons easy.

Took forever to pump / siphon the gas out. I wanted to clean the tank out. Inside was nice and clean. Got the pump out - looks like it had been replaced before.

Got the new pump spliced in, new o ring on the tank made it fun to get the locking ring in.

Got the tank back in - no issues. Then I started FIGHTING the fuel filler hose. We had the tank installed loosely at that point. Decided to try a different route. So we dropped the tank back out and I totally removed the filler hose. Put the tank back in, hooked up the lines / breather and wiring, then I put the metal fill hose into the tank hose FIRST, then worked it into the tank that way. Took longer to figure out the filler hose than dropping / installing the tank.

Added 4-5 gallons of gas, pump fired up fine - started up no issues.

This is where it gets fun. Gas gauge (Always worked perfectly FYI) was reading 1/8 tank. About right for a 33 gallon tank. As it was idling - the gauge just DROPPED to Empty. Didn't think much about then.

Long story short - gauge isn't working now. So in the morning I'll dig around to see if I can find a float for the level sensor. It seemed fine - but unless it's a wiring connection somehow - I bet the float is soaked. I have a spare sender from the 96 I took apart (it's float had DISSOLVED) if needed.

Go back at it Saturday morning. At this point, I'm betting we can have the tank dropped (no need to drain it - with the lift and 35s we have room to roll the tank out from under the LH side of the truck without jacking it up) and the sender / float replaced in under an hour.

It's always something. At least I know it'll be good or many miles to come hopefully.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,251 Posts
Discussion Starter · #348 ·
So if you run across a bad float in your fuel level sensor - you do not have to replace the entire sensor.

You can order a replacement brass float:

Part#
C0AZ-9202-B

That's the Ford original part # - the aftermarket parts will pop up if you search it. Ebay, Summit Racing, Amazon etc.

Well after seeing what two years of ethanol gas sitting in the tank did to the brass float in the 96 Bronco parts truck - the float was literally DISSOLVED - I decided to see if a plastic replacement was available.

Ended up finding this:

Amazon.com: Omix-Ada 17729.01 Fuel Tank Plastic Float: Automotive

Funny - after finding that part # - searched this forum and @dash_cam covered this more than a few years ago...

fuel gauge not coming off "E" - signs of a bad float? | Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum (fullsizebronco.com)

New float is on the way.

The 95 also threw a CEL when the kid was driving it back to his Mom's house last night after the fuel pump replacement. Said it came on, when went off. Truck ran fine the entire time,

We've been dealing with intermittent :

Code 157 181, 186,

Code 157 has to do with a low voltage from the MAF sensor. We replaced the MAF sensor after the fuel pump. We had seen this code before, and turns out the MAF that was installed on the truck has a weather pack seal on the sensor side and the original harness connector has a weather pack seal. This combo made the harness connector not want to lock on the tab of the sensor. Ordered the NTK replacement sensor from Rock Auto...

It does NOT have extra weather pack seal and fits PERFECTLY and allows the connector lock down correctly. I cleared the codes that were in memory - but didn't disconnect the battery.

I have a new O2 sensor to install (will do it Saturday) and at this point, I went ahead and bit the bullet and ordered a new Motorcraft IAC and TPS. The only two sensors that weren't replaced when I went through the engine.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,067 Posts
Ended up finding this:

Amazon.com: Omix-Ada 17729.01 Fuel Tank Plastic Float: Automotive

Funny - after finding that part # - searched this forum and @dash_cam covered this more than a few years ago...

fuel gauge not coming off "E" - signs of a bad float? | Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum (fullsizebronco.com)

haha yes, i was quite pleased to find the plastic float. i replaced my fuel pump last month and was glad to have the access panel available, too!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,251 Posts
Discussion Starter · #350 ·
Saturday we dropped the tank again. Seriously - at this point, cutting an access panel would take longer. Tank was close to half full and with a cheap Harbor Freight transmission jack, it was easy to drop it and wheel it out the side of the Bronco. If you aren't lifted, jacking up at the rear would give you the room to roll the tank out.

I couldn't find a hole in the original brass float, but originally, when we first put the tank back in and added gas, the gauge jumped to 1/8 tank and then suddenly dropped to E. So installed the new plastic float.

Then tested the sender and gauge. There was enough slack in the fuel pump wiring connector under the Bronco, to slide under on the creeper, hook up the pump / sender assembly (out of the tank) then moved the sender up and down and verified correct movement of the fuel gauge.

Also - the original o-ring I'd installed (new) when we first did the pump now seemed to big. Installed a new o-ring that had come with the new locking ring, got all that installed back in the tank.

I did take the time to replace the skid plate / tank bolts / nuts / washers with 3/8 bolts from the hardware store. The originals were tired... Got everything back together.

Here's a tip: Remove the metal portion of the fuel filler hose from the hose hooking into the tank. You can then drop the tank, the hose that goes into the tank will flex enough to let you drop the tank with it installed. Remove this hose when reinstalling the tank.

Install the tank, connect everything (fuel lines etc) reinstall the bolts etc. Move the transmission jack out, use a jack stand on the LH side of the rear axle, JUST enough to get the Left Rear tire off. With that off, you hook up the metal portion of the filler hose to the tank side outside of the truck. You can place the filler hose in the tank and finagle the assembly up into position to bolt onto the body and use the three clamps to install everything.

I went ahead and installed the new EGR valve I've had sitting around for 6 months, a new Motorcraft IAC and a new O2 sensor.

I did run into a weird issue when going to install the new Motorcraft TPS Sensor. Turns out when redoing all the previous owner / mechanics garbage work - they had literally used wire nuts to connect the TPS - well they had transplanted a '96 5.0 - which of course had a '96 TPS...

The connectors are different between 95-96. So I actually need a '96 TPS, as when I repaired the engine harness, I used a '96 Bronco TPS connector.

The wires / sources are identical between 1996 and 1995 - so I'm guessing they just change the connector type. Apparently they did the SAME Thing with the fuel pump wiring connector between 95-96 as well.

Regardless the old TPS had tested good when I installed the engine...honestly I was being lazy and the ONLY three sensors that weren't replaced when I had the engine out and went through everything was the IAC, TPS and O2 sensor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,145 Posts
Saturday we dropped the tank again. Seriously - at this point, cutting an access panel would take longer. Tank was close to half full and with a cheap Harbor Freight transmission jack, it was easy to drop it and wheel it out the side of the Bronco. If you aren't lifted, jacking up at the rear would give you the room to roll the tank out.

I couldn't find a hole in the original brass float, but originally, when we first put the tank back in and added gas, the gauge jumped to 1/8 tank and then suddenly dropped to E. So installed the new plastic float.

Then tested the sender and gauge. There was enough slack in the fuel pump wiring connector under the Bronco, to slide under on the creeper, hook up the pump / sender assembly (out of the tank) then moved the sender up and down and verified correct movement of the fuel gauge.

Also - the original o-ring I'd installed (new) when we first did the pump now seemed to big. Installed a new o-ring that had come with the new locking ring, got all that installed back in the tank.

I did take the time to replace the skid plate / tank bolts / nuts / washers with 3/8 bolts from the hardware store. The originals were tired... Got everything back together.

Here's a tip: Remove the metal portion of the fuel filler hose from the hose hooking into the tank. You can then drop the tank, the hose that goes into the tank will flex enough to let you drop the tank with it installed. Remove this hose when reinstalling the tank.

Install the tank, connect everything (fuel lines etc) reinstall the bolts etc. Move the transmission jack out, use a jack stand on the LH side of the rear axle, JUST enough to get the Left Rear tire off. With that off, you hook up the metal portion of the filler hose to the tank side outside of the truck. You can place the filler hose in the tank and finagle the assembly up into position to bolt onto the body and use the three clamps to install everything.

I went ahead and installed the new EGR valve I've had sitting around for 6 months, a new Motorcraft IAC and a new O2 sensor.

I did run into a weird issue when going to install the new Motorcraft TPS Sensor. Turns out when redoing all the previous owner / mechanics garbage work - they had literally used wire nuts to connect the TPS - well they had transplanted a '96 5.0 - which of course had a '96 TPS...

The connectors are different between 95-96. So I actually need a '96 TPS, as when I repaired the engine harness, I used a '96 Bronco TPS connector.

The wires / sources are identical between 1996 and 1995 - so I'm guessing they just change the connector type. Apparently they did the SAME Thing with the fuel pump wiring connector between 95-96 as well.

Regardless the old TPS had tested good when I installed the engine...honestly I was being lazy and the ONLY three sensors that weren't replaced when I had the engine out and went through everything was the IAC, TPS and O2 sensor.
soooo did that new float fix it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,145 Posts
Yeah I tested it before we put it back in the tank. Gauge works great.
argh thats annoying, my brand new sending unit has been reading all erratic and now you got me thinking it might be the float, good thing I put some anti seize on those bolts last summer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
341 - 353 of 353 Posts
Top