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Discussion Starter #41
Got the passenger pivot bushing installed.

Looks like it was time:



Went faster than the driver's side, but the axle beam still fought me.
Ended up having to loosen the shocks and spring on the passenger side, remove the driver's side and get to 'full sag' to get it lined up.

The poly insert - well the 'cap' that goes on the rounded side got a bit pinched in the axle pivot bracket when the beam lined up. It'll be fine or it won't. If I go back in I'm liable to drop the entire front axle, but it seems fine for now.

Also checked the Warn locking hubs - RH side works fine. Lock it in, front RH axle rotates. Unlock the hub it free wheels. LH hub feels like it locks in, but it never does - axle doesn't turn. So I'll see what's going when I tear it all down this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Hub is probably just hanging up from old grease, I use lithium grease and just lightly coat them so they don’t stick.
It moves smoothly. Not sticky at all. However it DOES seem to rotate a little further - almost past the "lock" mark - than the RH hub does.

I'm tearing down the hubs / replacing brakes, rotors, bearings etc this weekend - so I'll see what's going on once it's apart. Like I've stated before, I'd rather do it once and replace wear / maintenance items while I'm in there anyway.

Debating on going ahead and ordering a replacement steering box and intermediate shaft as well. This truck isn't going anywhere for a long time, so I want it to where any of us could hop it in and go.

I've got all the parts on the way except for the spindle seals and wheel seals. NAPA carries them - I'd much rather match them up since there was a year / month break in '95 and the fact someone likely replaced OEM auto hubs with these Warns...

I'm assuming that the truck came with auto hubs since it has the electronic shift 4WD...
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Good score last night - Facebook marketplace comes through again.

- Scored a complete set of gauges w/ tach from a '95 Bronco.
- Two NICE blue / gray door panels (going to dye all the interior stuff to freshen it up anyway)
- Nice gauge bezel WITH 4WD switch AND rear window switch

All for $120.

Tonight I'm going to tackle the Radius Arm bushings. Since my drop brackets for the lift are bolted on, I'm hoping once I break the nuts loose on the radius arms, it will be just a matter of supporting the radius arm, unbolting the bracket from the frame and replacing the bushings.

Also - talked with a friend of mine who has a ton of experience with the TTB suspensions. Unfortunately he's several states away, but we talked for a while and I sent him pictures of the Bronco. Keeping in mind the '95's intended use (no rock crawling, some back woods off roading, mainly a daily driver) he recommended I go ahead and replace the steering box (it definitely looks original) when I do the Saginaw swap and all the engine work.

He told me for what I intend for the truck, it's hard to beat the rebuilt AC Delco steering box and he also strongly recommended I pony up and buy the Skyjacker drop pitman arm.
It's got more of a drop than the other 4" drop arms.

https://skyjacker.com/shop/pitman-arm/fa600/

He said he's run it on more than a few trucks and it makes a ton of difference. He said if I planned on doing a bunch of off roading he'd do the Tie rod flip - but since I'm not, he said this was easier - not to mention all the tie rods - draglink etc are brand new.

So I just ordered that, and I'll be ordering the AC Delco box later today.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Okay - so outside of random parts for tailgate redo, weather stripping etc, parts ordering is done.

- AC Delco Steering box
- FA600 drop pitman arm
- Transfer case / adapter gasket
- Transfer case input seal
- Trans filter / gasket
- Spark plugs
- Rear Diff gasket
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Does the bezel also have the heated rear window switch location?
Those are hard to find and is the difference between the truck and the Bronco pieces.
Yup - pulled it off myself from a '95 XLT Bronco.
Before I found this one I was going to plastic weld and 'frankenstein' one together since I found a MINT F150 bezel for free in the boneyard.

What I find weird - LMC sells a new bezel for the Bronco - with no spot for the rear defrost.

But as far as the rear window switch itself - it looks like it's identical (bezel wise) to the truck bezel that has the dual fuel tank switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Got a late start, but I did get the LH radius arm poly bushing installed. The bushings looks to have been replaced, but they were cracked and seem to have shifted a bit.

Broke the radius arm bushing nut loose, then dropped the radius arm drop bracket. Replaced the bushing - but I did have to loosely bolt in the bracket, then use the big washer and nut to pull the radius arm bracket further into the bracket. Then I tightened the bracket down, removed the radius arm bushing nut and washer, then slid the outer poly bushing on and bolted it down.





 

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Discussion Starter #50
You'll notice the nut for the radius arm bushing doesn't go on as far as with the stock (or the OEM type replacement my truck had) setup. That's cranking it down with the impact. I'll verify torque settings once I do the other side.

TIP: You can do this without jacking the truck up (if you have bolted on radius arm brackets or you plan on cutting the rivets out and replacing with bolts) but MAKE SURE to CHOCK the tire of the side you're working on. If you don't - when you loosen / take off the radius arm nut, the radius arm will move towards the front of the truck, which will make lining it up a pain. Once I figured that out it was actually easy.

I'm sure I'm jinxing myself, but I figure I can do the RH side in 30 minutes or so. I degreased the heck out of the underside of the truck and sprayed it off AFTER changing the LH side - since the most time consuming part was finding my safety glasses since mud and dirt kept falling in my face when I was removing the radius arm bracket.

On another note:

A set of bearings, both rotors, both calipers and some other parts showed up.

Hope to get the RH radius arm bushing done and start the brake / bearing / hub teardown early Saturday morning.

And since it appears the engine has a slow, slow seeping of oil from the rear of the oil pan (not even enough to drip) I'm CONSIDERING yanking the engine and detailing it , replacing oil pan gasket, rear main seal while it's out. Haven't decided yet. There wouldn't be much left to yank it - bellhousing bolts, torque converter bolts and engine mounts.

I am afraid if I yank the engine thought I'll get BAD mission creep and end up painting / detailing the engine and engine bay. Just for it to get dirty.

Decisions, decisions. :popc1:
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Well got the other radius arm bushing installed - then started to tear into the brakes.

So I started on the LH side - the same side where the hub does not lock in. It turns fine, everything seems fine from the outside, but doesn't lock in.



Were factory manual hubs Warn hubs? Did all electronic shift 4WD models in '95 have auto hubs originally?



Got the hub cap off - missing two screws of course - and this spring was resting inside the hub. I'm guessing it's supposed to be that way.



The PO took all this apart to install new ball joints (verified they are new and Moog) and didn't bother to clean the old grease out and repack the bearings...



Jeez, talking about dirty



Outer wheel bearing came REALLY easy - as in it basically fell out before I ever started pulling the rotor off the spindle. But the spindle nuts weren't overly loose I don't think. Good news that number matches up to the TIMKEN SET45 I ordered.





Out spindle nut - both sides





Inner spindle nut - notice no 'nub' or lock tab - shouldn't it have a piece that locks into the hub washer?



Outer axle u-joints seem in great shape. May clean them off - debating whether I should go ahead and replace them since I have them on hand.

So apparently someone got the 12 point 6mm bolt off for the ABS sensor but either forgot it or destroyed it removing it - so no bolt holding the sensor in and the end of the sensor looks chewed to hell





Hammer and brass drift made short work of the wheel studs and the drove the ABS tone ring out as well



Need to order ABS sensor might go ahead and do hubs too.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
My '95 is a 11/94 production date. So it doesn't have the newer style 2 piece seals.

Went to the local NAPA figuring (from seeing multiple posts on various threads here) they would have the spindle seals. The guy working there - who has likely worked there for YEARS - simply didn't know how to run the computer and couldn't navigate the parts catalog for anything.

Was able to navigate their website and find what look to be the spindle seals:

Front Outer Spindle Seal PT#13144
Front Inner Spindle Seal PT#18844

So I'll head there in a bit and pick up the seals and the spindle bearing. I need to pick up some grease anyway.

The hubs were just NASTY. I've been eyeing a portable parts washer at Tractor Supply for a while now, so I went and picked it up last night along with 5 gallons of their parts cleaner. In a bit I'll head out and clean the shop up - since it's raining today and the '95 won't fit in my shop (too tall).

Hindsight being 20/20 - I think I'm going to hit the junkyard next week and see if I can pick up 4 stock f150 wheels and tires that at least hold air. Hoping switching to those will allow me to get the '95 in the shop - I'll have to do some measuring.

Plan today is to get the shop straightened up, get the parts washer put together and filled up and start soaking the sub and other parts and hopefully get to removing bearings / races and replacing.
 

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Discussion Starter #53


So I'm guessing that's what left of my ABS sensor shield?



So yeah, I'm thinking that's not how the sensor is supposed to look like.

So I'm searching threads - apparently the sensor shields are unobtanium. So should I buy a new sensor and install it and leave the remains of that shield there or remove it - and just run the sensor?

I really don't want to disassemble the '93 Bronco to pull the shields - that's betting they are still there and I can get them off in one piece.

I've got some thinking to do. Considering pulling the relay that runs the 4WABS system and simply removing the sensor. I'll search threads here and see what I find.

Have I mentioned how much I love previous owners? Apparently they rounded the bolt off on the shield and just broke the shield off so they can remove the spindle. Gotta love it.



Did get the shop cleaned up enough to work. Trying to rain like hell here too. Also got the parts washer together. Ended up buying one at Tractor Supply - it won out because it's portable and still holds 20 gallons. Need to go get another 5 gallon bucket of parts cleaner. Unfortunately my local Tractor Supply doesn't carry it - so I gotta go a ways down the road.

Got the spindle, hub and front axle stub soaking (it's getting a new Spicer u-joint).



God I missed having a parts cleaner.

On another front, I was able to find the correct inner and outer spindle seals and bearings at a local NAPA.



Everything listed in most catalogs for my '95 is wrong. Production date of 11/94.

Now I have to figure out the official name of the spindle nut with the locking nub / tab. The tab was gone on the one I pulled from the LH side on the '95.

Step by step.
 

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Discussion Starter #54

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Discussion Starter #55
I think I'm just going to unplug sensor and run it.

Got the races out of the hub and let it soak some more.

Fighting the spindle bearing right now. The slide hammer set up I have just won't bite on the smaller spindle bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
So I mentioned before I tore the LH side apart - that the LH hub (Warn Manual hubs) would NOT lock in. The dial turns and it's not hard to turn, but turned all the way to lock - it never engages (the front axle does not start moving). RH side - identical hub - works just fine.

The Warn hub itself is a sealed piece. And while the LH hub was FILTHY, I cleaned it in the parts washer, then clean it with brake cleaner - it appeared to be moving back and forth fine. I figure I'll need to order hubs, but didn't want to order them without knowing for sure something was wrong with them.

After some more research - turns out that the spring that fell out when I pulled the hub cover is not supposed to be loose.



That spring on the right is supposed to be installed on the threads of the dial inside the hub on the right. I'll take a look at it tonight and see what's going on with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Well since the LH hub was missing a couple of the hub cover screws, I figured I'd order a service kit. Well service kit is close to $30 and doesn't include the spring in the picture. Ordered a set of the Mile Marker Premium's for $70.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Last night had a few minutes to work - so I got the old u-joint out. I'm betting factory u-joint. Honestly wasn't in bad shape for 24 years and 250K miles. I feel better about going with spicer replacements.



Gonna mask the hub and axle hubs off and shoot a bit of paint on 'em to clean 'em up.

Getting ready to head out to the shop and do that - then go ahead and break down the RH side.
Clean all that up, then start getting everything ready to install. Goal is start putting it all back together Saturday morning, then go ahead and install the Skyjacker drop pitman arm and AC Delco steering box.

After that, it's time to start tearing the engine down and get that handled.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Had time to get the RH side stripped down.





Rinse, repeat - dirty, nasty grease. ABS sensor shield all the way gone and at least the sensor had a bolt holding it in. Got the hub loose and it and the spindle are soaking.

Did get the LH axle cleaned up:



Mile marker hubs and spindle nuts / washer came in (had to order another one)



Tomorrow try to get the u-joint removed from the RH axle. Get it cleaned up and painted.

By Thursday get the new races and bearings installed. Plan is to get it all back together Saturday morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Looking ahead and the next steps in this project after the front end is squared away - I realized I'll need to address a few things at the same time to save money and time and easier access.

I've got a small leak of ATF under the truck. It's not coming from the converter area and it doesn't appear to be coming from the trans pan. It appears to be coming from the extension housing between the transfer case and the transmission. So I've already got a extension housing gasket and a transfer case input shaft seal on hand. I figure since I have to drop the tcase, I mine was well replace the input shaft seal.

I've also got an issue with how the previous owner / shop ran the larger trans cooler lines they installed:



They replaced the factory hard lines with AN fittings / lines. That's good. In fact they look larger than the factory 5/16 hard line. After doing a bit of digging it appears that Jasper supposedly recommends / provides some 'upgrade' for trans cooler lines when selling a rebuilt E4OD for this application. That's all well and good, but how they installed / ran the lines themselves - I have an issue with:





yeah, they just hang there. I'll get some pictures of where they mate up with lines going into the radiator / trans cooler.

I want to do all this at the same time I have the current exhaust cut out of the truck, when I'm installing headers. It just gives a lot more access room to RH side of the transmission. Right now I can't decide if I'm going to run braided line and AN clamps or just run rubber trans cooler line. I was going to order some prebent steel lines from Bronco Graveyard ($75) but I'm not ordering those until I know whether or not the current lines are the larger -6 or 3/8 size.

Since I'll be redoing the trans cooler lines anyway, I figure I'll go ahead and plumb in an auxiliary trans cooler. With 20ft of braided line running $80 or more, I'm considering just running rubber trans cooler line along the frame rail and routing it how I want it, using line clamps to keep it out of the way. But since they routed braided lines and used AN fittings - I'll have to crawl under the '93 and see if the transmission cooler lines or at least the fittings in the transmission are still there.

At the same time I'll drop the transfer case and replace the extension housing gasket and the tcase input shaft seal.
 
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