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Discussion Starter #81
Went back out today to the shop. Got the Pitman arm nut torqued. Went to bleed the Power steering system. Decided to try something I'd seen on a thread here or another forum...

Pulled the coil wire. Filled the P/S pump, cranked the key while moving the wheels lock to lock (Front wheels off the ground). Added fluid until it held steady.

Test drive went well. Truck drive so much better it's ridiculous. It needs an alignment of course and the steering wheel is off center a bit..........but all the work was worth it. It's crazy how good it drives.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
I need to track down the ATF leak. It's pretty bad. Need to figure out where exactly it's coming from. I'm going to clean off the transmission / transfer case and check the tightness of the transfer case to transmission bolts, as well as the transmission pan bolts.

I'm also going to go another round with the power brake bleeder as well.

I still can't get over how good this thing drives now and I haven't even reinstalled the front swaybar with new endlinks or installed the rear sway bar endlinks (which are totally shot).
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Yesterday I was juggling several different projects so I decided to take the seat cushion out of the donor passenger seat I pulled from the '93 EB. The cushion in the driver's seat on the '95 is shot. I figured the cushions would be identical between both seats and they are. Took me a few minutes how to take apart the '93 seat but got the cushion out.

Then I got sidetracked and started messing with the tailgate glass on the '95. When I bought the truck someone had hot wired the tailgate window motor straight to a long spool of wire that runs to the interior so you can connect it to a power source and raise / lower it. That part works. In fact the tailgate motor itself looks like it's definitely been replaced.

Replaced the dash switch with a known good switch and reconnected the Y/RD, RD/Y wires to the tailgate window motor. Nothing. Wiring coming out of the tailgate into the LH tail light looks fine - no readily visible cuts or abrasions. Plan is to do pull it back in the shop after work and start tearing into it.

Figure it's best at this point to pull the connector on the frame and clean and make sure no obvious wiring issues then start testing what I've got at the dash switch.
 

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I need to track down the ATF leak. It's pretty bad. Need to figure out where exactly it's coming from. I'm going to clean off the transmission / transfer case and check the tightness of the transfer case to transmission bolts, as well as the transmission pan bolts
Don't overlook the coolant lines. I drove from Ohio to Arizona and back years ago with one leaking. Had a couple shops look it over in Phoenix. A dealer said I needed front and rear seals, a small shop found the leaking fitting, but couldn't fix it for some reason. Has to fix it when I got back home, but the leak sure made a mess.
 

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Realize my truck hadn't had the Cruise Control switch recall done yet. Just ordered in on Amazon (less than a $1 more expensive than Rock Auto and free shipping). The cruise control system IS installed on the '95. I'm an idiot. Apparently when you are going back and forth between 2 different Bronco's engine compartments checking things out - it pays to remember one is a XL with no cruise from the factory. :doh0715:

Which means one has to have cruise control in order to have said switch recall done, correct?
 

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ate lug
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Yesterday I was juggling several different projects so I decided to take the seat cushion out of the donor passenger seat I pulled from the '93 EB. The cushion in the driver's seat on the '95 is shot. I figured the cushions would be identical between both seats and they are. Took me a few minutes how to take apart the '93 seat but got the cushion out
I never considered that, but thats a good idea. Much easier to find good passenger seats in the yards than driver seats.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Which means one has to have cruise control in order to have said switch recall done, correct?
Pretty sure. The part in question for the recall is a cruise control switch that threads into the brake master cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
I never considered that, but thats a good idea. Much easier to find good passenger seats in the yards than driver seats.
Yeah - I've used this trick in other cars / trucks. Most manufacturers are about saving money. I will try to remember to take some pics tonight, but the cushion out of the passenger '93 seat is identical to a driver's side cushion. Each side of the cushion has the cutout molded in the foam for the power seat switch mounted on the side. Hope to pull the seat out of the '95 and get the cushion installed. Right now I'm working on the '95 tailgate.

Apparently a previous owner replaced the tailgate window motor. But it looks like they hacked up the wiring harness as well. I spent more time than I care to admit fighting the bent up rear bumper on the '96 (bumper was bent up enough tailgate wouldn't open all the way) so I could get the tailgate down. And after all that, I forgot I robbed the solenoid off the '96 to test something on the '95 and can't find it. Last time I messed with the '96 XL - the tailgate window worked with both switches. I'll crawl in there after work today and open the access panel and power the motor directly. Plan is to use the entire tailgate harness from the '96 and install it into the '95.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Well I crawled in the back of the '96 XL. Scored a few tools, and a shotgun shell carrier.
The tailgate access panel in the '96 looks like it's never been disturbed. That's good.

Realizing the '96 XL doesn't have rear defrost - the '95 does.
Did set up a quick rig that lets me get the tailgate window up and down without crawling in the truck. Like a sauna in there. New weight loss program.



So then I crawled in the back of the '93 EB...with rear defrost. Rear window hasn't been down in 15 years. The motor works. After a ton of pb blaster etc - it went from barely moving to moving a few inches. It seems like one side of the regulator is frozen. I'll search threads and see what I can find.

Here's the passenger seat cushion from the '93:



And cut outs on both sides of the cushion:





It will be a direct replacement for the worn driver's cushion in the '95.

And I've been trying to find a vinyl dye that matches the tan / mocha in the '95.

Desert Sand Duplicolor is too light as I suspected.

Colorbond Ford Medium Prairie Tan is still too light.

Trying the SEM LT Buckskin next.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
So after tearing through the tailgate tech section on Supermotors from Steve83 (I'd already saved all that to my computer) and searching through a bunch of threads here....

It likely seems the regulator OR the roller / guides allow the tailgate window to move are likely frozen. It's not a stretch. It's literally been 15-16 years since that window has been down on the '93 - it was stored in a heated / cooled bard for 15 years before I got it.

I think at this point I'll just climb back in there and remove the (4) nuts holding the window to the regulator / bracket then manually lower the window down to the bottom of the tailgate so I can get the tailgate down. Then I'll go from there and see if I can get the regulator moving. I want to to keep the '93 weather tight - all I really want is the apparently untouched tailgate wiring harness with rear defog to install in the '95.

I'll try to get at it tonight and see what's going on and update here.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
For anyone who can't get the tailgate window down, the first option is to remove the access panel, unplug the window motor connection, get a battery and two pieces of wire and simply try to get it down by directly powering the motor. If that STILL doesn't work - like in my case where the tailgate window on the '93 LITERALLY has not been down or open since 2003 (at least), then odds are - if the motor tries to work - the rollers / guides the connect the regulator to the window track are likely frozen.

Like this - All I did was Try to move the guide (still attached to the regulator) after I got the window out.



In that case - grab a wrench (12mm or 7/16" can't remember at the moment) and reach up inside the access panel and take off the two nuts on either side of the window track that hold the glass to the regulator. Bumping the power to the motor at this point will jar it enough to allow you to move the regulator arms off the studs on the guides and get the window free of the mechanism and allow you to lower it manually.

First time in over 15 years this tailgate has been lowered:



So all that work to get to the tailgate harness in the '93 - since it has rear defrost and so does the '95.....and someone has already "modified" the harness. In reality - it was unplugged underneath the truck and it appears someone just ran a wire to the battery at some point to power the tailgate. I guess. It was closed off with a wire nut. God I love previous owners.

The safety switch on the LH side of the tailgate is GONE. They jumpered the wiring harness to bypass this (they were good enough to crimp this connection). I got the entire harness out of the tailgate - only to find out they apparently just REMOVED the rear defrost wire from the harness. It and the rear defrost harness is GONE. On the plus side the tailgate switch seems like it's in good shape.



On the plus side - the tailgate isn't rotted. It's got some scale surface on one inside corner but ZERO rot. So at least it's consistent with the rest of the truck. I honestly believe the top has NEVER been off the '93. All the trim and trim screw hole plugs are intact and not broken.

At this point I need to search the tailgate tech stuff and figure out how to remove the tailgate key switch. It looks like I have to remove the exterior trim panel to remove the key cylinder itself - I'll try that and see what happens I'm going to rob the key cylinder from the '96 because I have a key for it and it worked before. At this point it looks like I'm going to build an entire new harness using the plugs and seals from the '93 to install in the '95. I just have to find where the rear defrost ground actually bolts up - inside the tailgate itself or inside the tail light housing. That wire was cut on the '95 as well.

I want to get the tailgate working from both switches, lubed up and working well, so I can button up the dash on the '95 and install the new instrument cluster I scored + the mint trim bezel I got from the same parts truck.

I'm off to search threads - but does anyone know if power side mirrors (the '93 has them in good shape - the '95 does not have power mirrors) harness plug up is present in a Bronco that didn't have them?
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Okay so after some digging I found some pictures and other things that I'll leave here to help me document getting this repaired.

Here's a picture (courtesy of Steve83 ) of the later model tailgate wiring harness:



Once I get the '95 back in the shop, I'll verify what I got - but at this point I would feel better about taking the pieces of two harnesses I have and wiring up a new one.

The rear defrost consists of two connections. One wire is the ground, one wire is the hot. They both apparently connect to the window.

The ground connects to a tab glued to the silver connection on the glass connected to the defroster grid. Looking at the tailgate with it down - it's on the RH (passenger side) a short distance to the left is the hot for the defrost - which connects to the same type of tab.

So two of these are used:

https://www.amazon.com/Rear-Window-Defroster-Replacement-Tab/dp/B075M2X42Y/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=frost+fighter+2300&qid=1559310527&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Again, one for ground (grounds to inside LH tail light housing) and one for hot.

You can also buy new connectors from Frost Fighter as well and they even make a special epoxy to reconnect the tabs to the silver insets on the glass that connects to the defroster grid. But that epoxy is like $40. The connectors (which are just female spade connectors with a clip on plastic housing) are like $6 + shipping.

Me personally, I think I'm going to salvage two tabs from the '93 and '95 rear glass as needed and solder it back on the window. Won't cost me a dime. Then I'll crimp and solder on new spade connectors (again FREE) and then use heat shrink around it.

I'll take pictures when I get the '95 inside the shop and start building the harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Got the cushion replaced in the driver's side seat last night. Apparently someone had tried to fix it before with tape. And not to mention it had a broken spring in the base. Robbed one from the donor seat. Difference is ridiculous.





And I found the PERFECT match for the Bronco tan interior trim. Went by an auto body paint supply store I've dealt with for years. They mix SEM stuff. He recommended to check that SEM stuff they had on the shelf first.

So my GF immediately picked out this color by the cap:

SEM color coat medium neutral

https://www.amazon.com/SEM-15883-Medium-Neutral-Color/dp/B003TQB6UK/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3T1JJ4NZ19G3X&keywords=sem+medium+neutral&qid=1559415960&s=gateway&sprefix=sem+medi,aps,139&sr=8-1

Bought one can. Took it to the parking lot to spray on the spare seat trim (broken tab) to see if it matched. After letting it dry you literally can't tell where I sprayed. Bought the other cans of it they had on the shelf.

Which is ironic. Since one of the threads I found when searching here contained a post from someone saying Medium Neutral was a perfect match - but then someone posted the SEM color chart picture and it looked GREY - and the person who said it matched never posted again:

Here's the the thread:

https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone/410642-interior-paint-match-tan-interior.html
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Scored a front console from a '07 F150 today. $50 in mint shape from a local salvage yard. Haven't had time to touch the Bronco lately - working on applying limewash to our brick house. Hope to be done with that this weekend if the weather holds.

For those interested - limewash is simply powdered hydrated lime mixed with salt and water. It protects the brick and it's a TON cheaper than paint. It's what people used to apply to brick houses before paint became so much cheaper / common to acquire. Enough to do my entire 2000 sq/ft house cost me about $80 with some leftover.

Going to get the '95 inside the shop and start work on the wiring / interior. Get the tailgate wiring / switches squared away, install the power mirrors from the '93, strip the interior and install sound deadener under the vinyl mat, replace / repair / dye all the interior panels, dash panel and install stereo, speakers, console etc.

Likely I'll pull the top while I'm doing all this to make it easier.

Then after that, it's tear the top half off the engine, water pump, hoses, thermostat, gauges, headers etc.
 

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Scored a front console from a '07 F150 today. $50 in mint shape from a local salvage yard. Haven't had time to touch the Bronco lately - working on applying limewash to our brick house. Hope to be done with that this weekend if the weather holds.

For those interested - limewash is simply powdered hydrated lime mixed with salt and water. It protects the brick and it's a TON cheaper than paint. It's what people used to apply to brick houses before paint became so much cheaper / common to acquire. Enough to do my entire 2000 sq/ft house cost me about $80 with some leftover.

Going to get the '95 inside the shop and start work on the wiring / interior. Get the tailgate wiring / switches squared away, install the power mirrors from the '93, strip the interior and install sound deadener under the vinyl mat, replace / repair / dye all the interior panels, dash panel and install stereo, speakers, console etc.

Likely I'll pull the top while I'm doing all this to make it easier.

Then after that, it's tear the top half off the engine, water pump, hoses, thermostat, gauges, headers etc.
Doesn’t look like the weather’s going to cooperate for the next week or so for either of us. Was supposed to pull a friends ‘67 Catalina out of his backyard in Chesterfield and haul it to his new house in Louisa... grounds going to be to wet on either end for the truck or trailer. :madder

Just leaves more shop time!
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Doesn’t look like the weather’s going to cooperate for the next week or so for either of us. Was supposed to pull a friends ‘67 Catalina out of his backyard in Chesterfield and haul it to his new house in Louisa... grounds going to be to wet on either end for the truck or trailer. :madder

Just leaves more shop time!
Yeah this weather is ridiculous. I have to clear my shop so I can get the '95 in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Okay so I've been tied up working on the house. I was finally able to get a simple hardtop storage rack built so I can store the top, get the '95 into the shop (without the top) so I can start rewiring the tailgate, stripping / fixing the interior panels, getting all the wiring straight etc. Having the top off makes that much easier.

(4) ratchet straps + (2) 8ft 2x4's, + (4) u-bolts + (4) lag eye bolts. Total investment around $30. Takes maybe 30 minutes to install, even less to get the top on it once the top is unbolted.
I park my '17 Mustang under it in the garage pictured with zero issues.

Pictures should be self-explanatory







Hope to start tearing into the 95's tailgate wiring shortly. Going to pull the regulator and install new guide rollers, build a new harness, getting everything working, then lube it all up and make it weatherproof.

After that I'll be adding the power mirror from the '93, dyeing the replacement door panels, dying / installing the rear panels from the '93, installing sound deadening, dyeing / installing the late model F150 front console, get the stereo installed / wired up, install the '93 dash pad, install the replacement gauges / bezel, install a dual USB charger into the OEM powerpoint location, replace / repair headliners and get it all buttoned up.

After that I'll move to the engine / mechanical work.
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Okay so I finally started on the tailgate. Got the key cylinder removed from the '96 and started tearing down the '95 Tailgate.

Noticed one thing - the '96 XL has an interior brace for the tire carrier, even though it doesn't have one.



So I started tearing down the '95 EB tailgate. If you run the tailgate window almost always the way down, you'll line up all the bolts so you can easily remove the regulator. NOTE: As has been posted here numerous times - the regulator is harmless if the window OR the window motor is still installed. Take both off it'll spring shut (it's pre-loaded) like a rusty, dull bear trap.



Unbolt the window from the regulator / slider arms by removing to two nuts on each side of the window.(11mm). They are easily accessible on the LH side as pictured.



On the RH side they are reachable with a 7/16 ratchet wrench. (I couldn't find my 11mm wrench)



After you get these removed - you can push down the channels attached to the regulator arms and the window is essentially detached.



To fully remove the window you need to remove the two weatherstrip end caps. Remove the screw on each, tilt it up and it comes right out. I'll be replacing these anyway.



Next you need to remove the inner and outer weatherstrips that run the length of the tailgate. I'll be replaced these too. Take the screws out on each end then use a small screwdriver to pull the clips that hold the weatherstrip out.

Now the only thing holding the rear window in - are the clips that are taped into the wiring harness.



Personally I like popping the top tabs off - as seen in the picture. That way when I reinstall the harness I can simply use a zip tie to hold the clips. I've dealt with those on other vehicles and it works well - it's easy and it's free.



With that, I pulled the window out - and found a spot for it in the back seat. Next up pulling the regulator. IF you lined it all up to begin with you can unbolt it. You'll need to remove the two bolts on the RH side of the tailgate that hold the black inner tailgate carrier brace and remove the brace.

Then just remove the other 3 11mm regulator bolts and you can get the entire thing out through the opening on the LH side.



You can see the motor on the '95 was replaced.



I also bought new window rollers. These are trashed. To install the replacements, I'll have to drill these rivets out and bolt in the new ones.





And so I've got the famous separation of the outer tailgate skin. I'll have to make a few calls and get someone to weld in a couple of small metal braces.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
I replaced the rollers that fit inside the window bracket. The OEM rollers were trashed. The rivet that rides inside the original plastic roller were shot. To install the new ones you need to drill out the old rivets and bolt in the new rollers. I used my dremel with good cut off wheel, cut the rivet off close to flush, notched the back side of the rivet with the cut off wheel, started with a small drill bit, then worked my way up until the rivet basically fell out. Bolts the new roller assembly in, good to go. Didn't take long. Maybe 15 minutes each side - after I found the package of cut of wheels I hid from myself that is.



Next up I removed the entire harness. For those who don't know - the switch activated by the lock cylinder in the tailgate is permanently wired into the harness. So I wanted to test it to make sure everything actually worked. It didn't. So I cut off the harness that plugs into the safety switch - this switch is located on the LH side of the tailgate (inside). It senses whether or not the rear window is all the way down or not. If the window is NOT down all the way - it interrupts power to the window motor. If it IS down all the way - it passes power and the window motor can run. Apparently the switch failed (fairly common I'm guessing) and a previous owner simply wired directly to the motor wiring to make the window go up and down.

To remove the harness - unplug it underneath the rear of the Bronco. Then remove the LH taillight. Pull the harness up through the hold in the body on the LH taillight housing. If you have rear defogger - don't forget to unbolt the black ground wire that is connected inside the housing as well.

Then push in the seal inside the housing and keep pulling harness to the tailgate. Same with the seal where the harness enters the tailgate. There is a wire clip hidden by the LH side window rail (where the rear glass travels) you can remove that easily - two bolts on the outside of the tailgate. Disconnect other wire clips / connections (some shown above) and you remove the entire harness.




So after cutting off the harness that plugs into the safety switch on the LH side of the tailgate, and connecting those wires, I connected the window motor wires (red / yellow) and connected the harness underneath after cleaning the connectors.

Now the switches operating by the key / lock cylinder work perfectly. Turn the key on - the dash switch works as well.

I've ordered the inner and outer weatherstrip for the tailgate, now I need to order the end cap weatherstrips, the weather strips for the window run channels (installed on either side - inside the tailgate) as mine were TRASHED. I also need to solder on a replacement terminal for the rear defogg - in my case it's the LH side on the window - which is ground. I verified with the rear defogger switch engaged and key on, I have power to the positive rear defogger wire.

Will likely also order u-nuts for the top (I already ordered new bolts from bolt depot).

Now I need to dig in to the best way to repair the split on each side of the tailgate outer skin. The way it's placed - and the metal that's still there - I almost think a small metal brace drilled and bolted in would work better and be much easier than welding.

I'll be taking the top off the '93 EB parts truck so I can remove the rear panels and also get the braces / mounts for the top / trim that are missing from the '95.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Ordered a bunch of misc crap from Bronco Graveyard. Trim screws, clips, weatherstrips etc.
Hopefully it gets here by Friday - I'm off and would love to wrap up the tailgate.
 
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