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It pays to research what type of plastic you're dealing with before using filler material (that's why I mention using a broken interior piece).
Most if not all of the plastic in a mid 90's Bronco is going to be ABS.
I think they make a clear ABS cement that also could be an option for certain types of repairs.

Great job on the interior refresh!:thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #142
Most if not all of the plastic in a mid 90's Bronco is going to be ABS.
I think they make a clear ABS cement that also could be an option for certain types of repairs.

Great job on the interior refresh!:thumbup
Some can differ. It just matters when it comes to using filler material for plastic welding / fixing damage. It needs to be compatible.
As for ABS cement - it pays to test it on anything you are trying to repair. It actually melts the plastic in some cases to bond it - and many times in trying to repair a break or crack it actually makes it more brittle.
 

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Discussion Starter #143
Got a few minutes.
Took the pressure washer to the fr

Front and rear vinyl mats. Cleaned up nice.
Get the rear mat / trim and rear seat installed hopefully tomorrow. Juggling projects is killing me LOL.




The headliner and visors from the '93 was in better shape than I thought.

Couldn't get a pic worth a damn. But it's getting there

 

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Discussion Starter #144
Just as stuff starts rolling along so I can get the mechanical wrap up on this thing.... I should know better.

So I was greeted with a broken rear seat bracket bolt when stripped the '95 interior - from the previous owner. The bolt that holds the spring etc that seat rests on. Keep in mind this is no rust bucket.

I see it's not just me either:

https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/7-1980-96-bronco-tech/500318-broken-rear-seat-mounting-bolts.html

It was unscrewed enough to be just about flush with the square nut welded to underside of the floorpan. So getting it out that way wouldn't work. Broke several bits drilling on it. Went and grabbed the best bit I could find at a local hardware store (it was getting late). Got most of the way through the broken bolt (using cutting oil) and the bit broke. At least I got it out of the hole.

Any recommendations on drill bit brand / type etc that can be bought local? Lowe's, Home Depot, etc etc. I figure Cobalt tipped.

I already picked up new Grade 8 bolts (1/2-20 2" long) from the hardware store. I'll clean the thread / tap all the holes before assembly.
 

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It appears Cobalt is a good choice. See here:

https://www.grainger.com/know-how/industry/metalworking/kh-which-drill-bit-does-the-job

Are you starting with a smaller bit, maybe 5/32" or 1/8" and working into a larger hole size for the tap? That has worked for me in the past. Better that drilling it all at one time. Also, soak with penetrating oil like PB Blaster and give it some time to soak in. Another option is using heat (torch) on the nut side.

Slow and steady. Keep at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #146
I'm about to throw in the towel. This bolt was broken when I tore the interior apart - so it wasn't affecting anything.

Started with a small bit, drilled all the way through the bolt. Routinely soaking it, heating it, working my way up on drill bit size. There is just a thin part of the original bolt is left. And then I broke off a bit inside the hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #147
Finally some time back on the Bronco -been CRAZY lately.
Got the rear interior wrapped up. I gave up on that previously broken rear seat bolt. I had it drilled out, but the shell of the original bolt WOULD NOT give up the ghost. So I said "screw it" and proceeded to tap the hole I drilled for smaller bolt. And the tap broke. Yup moving on.

Rear mat back in, seat belts and seat brackets in with new bolts. Got the front headliner pretty much done.

So the kid was in town from school (gonna be his truck) and we finally had some time to tackle the NASTY transfer case / transmission leak. Flash back...

Before I pulled it into the shop, pulled the fill plug from the transfer case and fluid came running out. NASTY fluid. Not even close to red (ATF). I really think someone actually used gear oil in this thing. Regardless, I bought the transfer case seal and the gasket for the adapter.

Keep in mind - this thing leaked ATF the entire time it has been parked - until it couldn't really leak anymore. So before we dropped the tcase, we drained the garbage that was in there (NO TRACE Of red so I really don't think the inner seal is bad and it doesn't look bad at all). Then I pumped a gallon of fresh (cheap) correct ATF in the fill hole with the drain hole out. Yeah that was nasty. But kept it up until it ran clear and red.

Then we dropped the case.



I think I know where the problem is. I'm going to ASSUME that the fluid coming out that "weep hole" inside of the adapter is normal. And I'm going to ASSUME that because the jokers who installed this never even cleaned off the adapter flange OR the tcase flange and didn't put a gasket OR any kind of sealer on it - that would be the source of my leak.

Come on REALLY? How hard is it???

I have the seal on hand - but the existing seal looks fine. I'm thinking it was just FREELY leaking out of the connection between the adapter and the tcase. What say you all?



Get that cleaned / sealed up (gasket on hand and some good RTV) then onto draining the transmission, new filter and gasket and rerouting the trans cooler lines (likely routed by the same dufus who installed the transfer case). Then onto the remainder of the under hood work.
 

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Discussion Starter #148
Started cleaning the transfer case. I want to be able to easily see if this is leaking when I get it back on. If it is, well, I'll yank my spare from the '93 and go from there.



Took the 10 minutes to clean the mating surface for the gasket / sealer. Apparently the guys who installed this were too busy to do it.

 

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Discussion Starter #149 (Edited)
Got the tcase and adapter mounting surfaces cleaned.Got the threads chased, bolts cleaned and threads chased in the tcase and the rear driveshaft flange.
The rare times I watch a car / truck show (only a few that I'll actually watch) I always wonder why they never show the stuff that EVERY build has to go through - unless of course you can just call up your sponsor and order all new bolts.

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Bought this set years ago. Wasn't even that expensive. I must be the only one that cleans threads / bolts before putting stuff back together? LOL

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All that's done, transfer case ready to go back in.

Then I took a hard look at the ujoints on the front and rear driveshafts - and I'm leaning towards just replacing them. I'm betting they are original - the ones I replaced in the front axle shafts where. I know it'll add time / money I wasn't planning on, but I'd hate to have to go back in there after everything is back together.

I'm gonna go with the long life Spicer joints - non-greaseable.

Making sure I got the parts list right:

Rear Driveshaft :

New Cardan Joint or rebuild kit -
(3) Spicer 5-1330X long life u joints

Front Driveshaft:
(2) 5-7438x u joints
(1) Spicer 2-94-28x u bolt set

I've hunted around and I can get a new SPICER cardan joint, all new Spicer u joints, and the u bolt set for $173 shipped.

Amazon is $40 more.

Rock Auto doesn't carry all the spicer stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #150
Just a shout out to Denny's Driveshaft (www.dennysdriveshaft.com) I ordered this morning and everything was in stock and already shipped.
I was able to get the GOOD Spicer U Joints (three for the rear drive shaft, two for the front), a Spicer U bolt set, the rubber boot for the double cardan joint (again Spicer) and a brand new cardan joint with all new internals (again Spicer) for less than $175 SHIPPED.

I'm all about doing it once I'm in there - but I want to do it ONCE.
 

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Discussion Starter #151
Transfer case installed. Draining the trans, new pan gasket + filter on deck. Rebuild the driveshafts, next up likely rerouting the trans cooler lines and get ready to install the headers.

148752


148753
 

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Discussion Starter #152
Got a bit to go back at the Bronco. Everything came in from Denny's driveshaft - so why not.
Removed the rear driveshaft, and got to it.

Got the rear ujoint removed and replaced with a new spicer joint
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I honestly think the original spicer u joints were still installed - 200K miles. So yeah, I'll go back with the same

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The cardan joint felt okay, but as soon as I got it off - needle bearings were falling out. Here's the new Spicer part (identical part #) beside the original

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Got the old cardan joint seal removed and the new one installed.

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I'll try to get back to it tomorrow night and get the last two ujoints installed and move onto the front driveshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #153
Finally got a chance to get back on this rear driveshaft.
Got the first new u-joint in no issues, got the connector yoke on, got the new cardan joint seal on - in fact got everything together. Then I get to the LAST clip - and it won't go on. I even tried removing the clip on the other side - I can clip on one side or the other - not both. I'm using the thinnest clips that came with the new Spicer U-Joints.

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I know everyone is going to say it's a needle bearing that fell out / keeping the cap from going on all the way - but I'm doubtful.

I didn't use a vise / press - all removal / install was with a appropriately sized sockets and hammer - and they weren't bad to remove or install at all. I also cleaned up all the mounting surfaces as well. I'm going to measure the actual width of the yoke ear to ear on both sides to see if the ear just got tweaked a bit. If that's the case, I'll yank the joint and see if I can use a hammer to get it to spring back. If not I'll take some all thread / nuts / fender washers and "persuade" it to get back to spec.

It's always the little things.
 

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Discussion Starter #154
So yeah it was the needle bearings. I had an extra cap so that was easily fixed. Of course when I ordered all the Spicer parts from Denny's Driveshaft I ordered the wrong u-bolt kits - I transposed numbers from the Spicer catalog because I was in a hurry. Ended up snagging the right sets from NAPA. Finally got all the drive shafts phased and installed. Went back and added loctite to all the bolts. Even got the trans cooler line rerun over the top of the transmission, instead of underneath - don't ask I don't know why they did that.

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Went ahead and took apart the rear driveshaft slip joint, cleaned, added new grease and zip tied the collar back on.

I need to get motivated on this thing.........getting home from work when it's already dark just kills my motivation.
 

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Discussion Starter #155
Finally back at it.
Got the nasty cobbled together y-pipe cut off. But of course one of the manifold to y-pipe bolts is rounded. Lovely.
So yanked off the RH wheel well and soaked every bolt in site with PB Blaster and Aero Kroil. Since I'm totally replacing the y-pipe, I won't even bother fighting the RH manifold / down pipe bolts - I'll just remove the manifold and drop it all out.

I had been soaking the LH exhaust manifold bolts for several days. GOOD THING I Did. All the bolts came out, but the heads were literally almost ROUND

Going to go at the RH side tonight.

A LOT MORE Access with the wheel well gone

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Notice the O2 sensor that doesn't belong? Yeah - they swapped in a '96 5.0 complete with the newer exhaust manifolds LOL.

Get these out get the JBA headers installed - a lot more to do - and I want this thing out of my shop before the first of the year.
 

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Good to see you back at it and making progress.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #157
Got the exhaust out. But two bolts on the RH exhaust manifold snapped right off. Even after heat and repeated soakings. They snapped without much effort at all.

The one towards the rear - I have plenty of room to get to that one.

The one towards the front? Yeah - not so much.

Tried a stud extractor - it won't bite. Bolt extraction socket (for 3/8) won't bite. May try a 5/16 extractor socket...but here to look for ideas. No welder right now either.

If I have to pull the head, I'm tempted to just yank the damn engine.

151804



Any ideas?
 

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Is there enough room to put a nut on each of the studs and then weld the nuts on each of the studs? That's what I had to do with two of the sheared water pump bolts on my Bronco.
 

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Discussion Starter #159
The saga continues.
Decided to go ahead with water pump R/R, saginaw P/S pump install etc while I'm waiting on some stuff to come in to deal with the broken exhaust manifold bolt.

All the water pump bolts were coming out easily (heat and Deep Kreep before hand).
Then I get to the the nut (on the left) that holds the thin metal wiring channel that runs across the top of the water pump. It would not break free - in fact, it was turning the entire stud. So the metal wiring channel is now trashed - but the stud came out of the water pump.

Then I get to the LAST bolt. Top left. It would NOT budge. HEAT / soak - HEAT / soak. Get a breaker bar on it and I'm being slow and steady and it starts to come loose - then SNAP

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So the threaded portion is still in the block I'm guessing. LOVELY.

But water pump is out. I'm going to pull the timing cover and go from there.

And I ran across this wonderful wiring job for the Crankshaft Position sensor

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After the timing cover comes off - I'll deal with the broken bolt. Depending on the shape of the front of the oil pan gasket - I will decide whether the engine gets yanked or not.
 

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Gotta love SBF water pump bolts. Two of mine were broken when I swapped my water pump last year. Major pain in the rear.
 
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