Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I just picked up my 95 this Sunday and there is some work to do for sure....

1) noticed the oil pressure gauge would dance around during my drive
2) speedo danced a bit, also off by 5-10 mph
3) vibration at 30 MPH - disappeared over roughly 35 - PO says driveshaft needs to be replaced
4) coolant leak - slight
5) oil leak - slight
6) Check engine light comes on after a few mins - PO claims its from GT40 heads
7) top end of the frame .. approx 2" has chunks cut out - didn't notice on my inspection ( UGH!).
8) driver window coming off track - still works just needs help going up
9) diff cover was replaced - PO said old one rusted and had holes
10) coolant is clean, oil looks fresh

on the other hand...
1) mostly rust-free body - frame is slightly crusty in places
2) front suspension rebuilt
3) new fuel tank
4) new tires
5) drove 225 miles from MD to NY with no issue

So i don't know where to begin on this... I'm thinking I want to fix the oil guage issue first and the vibration from the driveshaft , then work my way down the list...

I am researching issues on the site top get more knowledgable and to start and fix this stuff myself... I am a welder by trade but this is going to be some new .territory for me ...

Also, if this is the wrong space to post please let me know!!

Any feedback good or bad is very welcome!!!

Also -I posted some pictures of the frame, where the oil leak is pooling, where I noticed coolant near the distributor
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
If it is not a Bronco, it's just not worth driving.....
Joined
·
1,213 Posts
Welcome to the FSB ownership world!!
This is the correct area to post in so you are good to go :)

Well, you have bought a 25 year old vehicle so you are going to find a lot of things to fix and repair.
The oil pressure is a good place to start. The factory oil pressure gauges are not very reliable and they seem to have issues frequently. Depending on the mileage of your truck you most likely will have a good amount of wear on the main bearings. The bearings wear and the oil pressure is affected, especially at start up. My main bearings rumble for the first 10 seconds when I start it up but it goes away after the pressure is built up. It is a normal issue for these older trucks. I have never experienced pressure gauge flutter though. You might try taking the pressure sender off and ensuring there is no debris in the line causing the flutter. You might also try a new sending unit if you don't plan to upgrade to a better one. There are several write ups on the forum explaining how to upgrade them.

My truck leaks oil as well. I add a quart about every 2 to 3 weeks. My main leak is the oil pan gasket. I have tried tightening the bolts and it has helped some. I will deal with it until I decide the rebuild the engine by periodically adding the oil. It is very common for vehicles 25+ years old to have fluid leaks like these. It isn't a huge deal unless it is a bad leak.

I would also look at the chunks cut out of the frame. It bewilders me that he cut on the frame like that. I would get those chunks welded up soon, especially if you plan to take it off road.

One thing I would suggest is to ensure your PSOM (programmable speedometer) is set to your tire size correctly. If your tire size is different than the stock size, your PSOM needs to be set to the correct setting. If it is not set correctly, the transmission and how it shifts can be affected. The link below will explain everything to you about this setting.


The best resource to your fixing and repairing your truck is right here on this forum. I have learned so much and put the information to use on my truck.
Good luck and keep us updated !!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info KLH!
I'll do my research and tackle the oil pressure this weekend. She has about 105k and I think she sat in a field for a while based on everything I see.....
There is a 4" lift and the tires are 33". I had no idea the speedo could be affected by the tire size but now that you stated the obvious - Duh, I definitely have a lot to learn. :)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
24,188 Posts
Yo WeldNYC,
Congrats!
As klh95bronco advised.

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader......

Oil pressure gauge; inspect sender, connector & wiring for corrosion, looseness, etc.

Test & Installation Tips in a 90; "...My oil pressure gauge was reading on the "N" of the NORMAL range. After doing some research it seemed like it could be the oil pressure switch, also known as a sensor or sending unit. Disconnect the wire from the switch, ground it to the truck and turn the key on. If your gauge quickly moves to the left, the problem is most likely the switch. The switch on my 5.8 is located near the oil filter. It is in a difficult spot to work on so I advise that you go to NAPA and get an Oil Pressure Switch socket to do the job. The cost is about $7-$8, this will save you time and will help you reinstall the new switch. Wrap some teflon tape around the threads and install. Make sure that it is in tight, I don't know about torque specs, I just put mine in quite snug. Hook the wire back on and start your engine. For me it was the cure. My oil pressure now reads over near the "M" on NORMAL..." miesk5 Note; The stock gauge & Sender will drop off after pressure reaches a certain level. You might actually have 5 psi, but the gauge will read 0 PSI & "...Technically all you need is 10 psi of oil pressure per 1,000 rpms . I still would not feel comfortable with less then 20 psi at idle. If it is lower then that, you can also get a thicker oil." by 420nitro
Source: by Canoeboy146 at FSB
Oil pressure gauge Overview in 87-96;
"Circuit Operation 87-88 F Series & Bronco; "...In recent years, Ford Motor Company has been doing something I view as a bit sneaky. They have taken the oil pressure gauge and turned it into a glorified warning light. It says it's an oil pressure gauge, it looks like an oil pressure gauge, but in reality it is not. starting in 1986 a change was made on some models that altered the function of the oil pressure gauge as we knew it. The variable resistance sending unit was replaced with an open/closed switch and an in-line 20 ohm resistor was installed between the gauge and the switch. Anytime you have more than 4.5 psi of oil pressure, the switch closes, completing the circuit from the gauge (with the 20 ohm resistor in-line) to ground. This then results in a gauge that reads just above the middle. As you can see, there is no variation to the gauge needle in this circuit. It will either read no oil pressure or half-scale (normal oil pressure). On this style of gauge circuit, if the oil pressure gauge reads in the middle, it is telling you only one thing - you have more than 4.5 psi of oil pressure. How much more is anyone's guess at that point. When oil pressure drops below 4.5 psi, the gauge will return to 0 and alert the driver of a problem...Ford released a TSB (#88-5-14) for 1987-1988 F Series and Broncos that called for converting the variable resistive style oil pressure gauge circuit to the switch style circuit - if the customer complained of low or erratic oil pressure readings. The kit contains an oil pressure switch and an in-line 20 ohm resistor that is to be connected between the end of the existing sending unit signal wire and the new switch. The variable resistance oil pressure unit removed from the vehicle is then discarded. I want to point out some diagnostic problems that can arise from this circuit. First, if you are working on this switch style oil pressure circuit (with the in-line 20 ohm resistor) and install a variable resistive sending unit in place of the oil pressure switch, the result will be a gauge that reads lower than normal due to having two resistors in series, the fixed 20 ohm in-line resistor and the variable resistive sending unit. On the other hand, installing the open/closed switch on a vehicle that incorporates the conventional oil pressure gauge circuit will result in a pegged gauge needle after starting the engine. Sometimes you can tell that you need a switch instead of the variable resistive sending unit by the presence of the in-line resistor a few inches from the switch connector. This is not a good rule of thumb though, since many vehicles have the fixed resistor on the back of the cluster, and some of the digital dashes have that circuit built into the cluster. To determine what style circuit you have, simply ground the sending unit wire with the key on. If the gauge reads exactly half-scale, you can be fairly sure you need a switch-style sender. If you ground the sender wire and the gauge pegs, a variable resistor-style sender is needed..."
by James @ ASA

"The oil pressure system uses a switch and a fixed resistor; the resistor is attached to the engine wiring harness. A primary magnet, to which a shaft and pointer are attached, rotates to align this primary field, resulting in pointer position. The bobbin/coil assembly is pressed into a metal housing which has two holes for dial mounting. There are no adjustment calibrations or maintenance required for this gauge; Oil Pressure Sender - The oil pressure sender controls the magnetic oil pressure gauge's pointer position. The oil pressure sender (switch) closes under normal engine operating conditions. The oil pressure sender opens with the engine off and no oil pressure..."

Sender Failure; "Corrosion or faulty electrical connections; If the oil pressure gauge is pegged low after the engine is running, or is pegged high after the engine is running, or if there is intermittent illumination of an oil pressure indicator light, the sender could be faulty. Related Components to Check; All appropriate electrical connections to and from the sender The oil pressure gauge or indicator light; Appropriate fuses (see Shop or Owner’s Manual for fuse layout)..."
Source: by MOTORCRAFT®

Test & Overview in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, Bronco, F-Super Duty Motorhome Chassis Workshop Manual: The oil pressure gauge is a magnetic movement design consisting of a bobbin/coil assembly, a return to zero magnet and a primary magnet. The shaft and pointer are connected to the primary magnet. The bobbin/coil assembly is pressed into a metal housing which has two holes for dial mounting. The gauge operates through a pressure activated switch. When the engine is started engine oil pressure closes the switch, providing a ground circuit for the gauge coil. Current flow through the gauge coil to ground causes the primary magnet and pointer to rotate, providing an oil pressure reading on the dial face. The oil pressure gauge does not require adjustment, calibration or maintenance. Also, never remove the pointer indicator from its shaft. The oil pressure switch controls the magnetic oil pressure gauge's pointer position. The oil pressure switch closes under normal engine operating conditions (oil pressure above 42 kPa [6 lb/sq in]). The oil pressure switch opens with the engine (6007) off and no oil pressure. Check gauge operation as follows: With the key in RUN and the engine off, disconnect wiring connector at the switch. The gauge should indicate on the LOW graduation or below. Connect the wiring connector to the engine block ground. The gauge should indicate just slightly above mid-scale. If the oil pressure gauge tests within calibration, replace oil pressure switch. If the gauge still tests out of calibration, replace oil pressure gauge.
Source: by Ford
⊙●⊙
Determine if speed control, if equipped recall work completed by dealership. Call local dealer or register and view status @ Welcome to Ford Owner | Official Ford Owner Site; or @ Recalls Look-up by VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) ... have VIN ready.
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
See this guide by jowens1126 to confirm recall status @ 93 & 94-96 Cruise Control Recalls Repair
Note that the 93 recall is different than 94-96.
°•°
Here is the 1995 Bronco Dealer Brochure

1995 Drivetrain, Powertrain Service Manual
1995 Bronco Drivetrain, Powertrain Service Manual - Google Drive

1995 Body, Chassis Service Manual
1995 Bronco Chassis, Service Manual - Google Drive
To switch between folder list & grid views, click the button to the right of the "DOWNLOAD ALL" button in the upper right corner of the window) by HawkDriver

To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your Bronco info with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
Bronco info is now able to be put under your user name.
Click your profile button in the top right and go to account settings.


On that first page, named Account Details, scroll down to "Vehicle Info" and type in up to 100 characters.

Now you can simply enter your information in the text editor and click save.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
I have GT40 heads on mine and it doesn't cause a check engine light so you will want to pull the codes and address that..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
So I just picked up my 95 this Sunday and there is some work to do for sure....

1) noticed the oil pressure gauge would dance around during my drive
2) speedo danced a bit, also off by 5-10 mph
3) vibration at 30 MPH - disappeared over roughly 35 - PO says driveshaft needs to be replaced
4) coolant leak - slight
5) oil leak - slight
6) Check engine light comes on after a few mins - PO claims its from GT40 heads
7) top end of the frame .. approx 2" has chunks cut out - didn't notice on my inspection ( UGH!).
8) driver window coming off track - still works just needs help going up
9) diff cover was replaced - PO said old one rusted and had holes
10) coolant is clean, oil looks fresh

on the other hand...
1) mostly rust-free body - frame is slightly crusty in places
2) front suspension rebuilt
3) new fuel tank
4) new tires
5) drove 225 miles from MD to NY with no issue

So i don't know where to begin on this... I'm thinking I want to fix the oil guage issue first and the vibration from the driveshaft , then work my way down the list...

I am researching issues on the site top get more knowledgable and to start and fix this stuff myself... I am a welder by trade but this is going to be some new .territory for me ...

Also, if this is the wrong space to post please let me know!!

Any feedback good or bad is very welcome!!!

Also -I posted some pictures of the frame, where the oil leak is pooling, where I noticed coolant near the distributor
Where in NY are you? If your close to Long Island there's a place called Deer Park Drive shaft that I recommend. I brought my drive shaft to him, he balanced it painted it, and new ujoints, I could do 85 on the highway and it's perfect. The owner is a Bronco owner so he's familiar with our rides.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
@ Miesk5, thanks for all the reference material and links- super awesome!!! I'm diving into it now...
@ Madman - yeahhh... I feel like there is a lot going on with this engine and it was kinda cobbled together. I don't want to get overwhelmed so I'm going to tackle one thing at a time... but the more in-depth I started looking at this thing the more interesting it gets...
@NYFSB I'm in Queens and the truck is in Port Washington until I get everything squared with the DMV. Thanks for the tip on Deer Park Drive shaft - Did you pull your shaft and bring it to him or did he do that for you?

Just an overall observation - FSB rocks! thanks for the responses, links and tips!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
24,188 Posts
Yo Weld,
Frame Service; Drilling Precautions, Straightening, Reinforcing, Member Replacement, etc.
"CAUTION: Do not drill holes in the frame flanges. This will reduce the strength of frame (5005).

If a hole must be drilled in the frame, make sure that it meets all of the following requirements:
1. The hole is located in the upper half of the frame.
2. The edge of the drilled hole and the edge of the nearest hole are at least 25mm (1 inch) apart.
3. The edge of the drilled hole is at least 25mm (1 inch) from the edge of the flange.
4. The drilled hole is not adjacent to any other existing brackets or components of frame.

Welding Precautions

CAUTION: Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301) before using any electric welding equipment.

All welding on frame must be done with electric welding equipment, and the heat should be kept in a small area to prevent change in hardness of the metal. Do not use gas welding equipment. A double reinforcement must be added to frames where heat or weld is applied to the area to be repaired. The welds are to run lengthwise along the reinforcement when a reinforcement is to be welded to the frame side rail.

Frame Strength Identification
F-Series, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Bronco all use a 36,000 psi steel frame.

Frame Straightening
Misalignment of frame can be corrected by straightening the out-of-line parts or by replacing the crossmembers, braces, or brackets if they are badly damaged.

WARNING: DO NOT STRAIGHTEN FRONT FRAME RAIL CONVOLUTES.
Straightening should be attempted on frames that fail to meet specifications of the diagonal checking method or where damage is visually apparent.

However, to prevent internal stresses in the metal, frame straightening should be limited to parts that are not severely bent. If heat is needed to straighten a frame member, keep the temperature below 649�C (1200�F) (a dull red glow). Excessive heat may weaken the metal in the frame members and cause permanent damage.

Frame Reinforcing

After a bent frame member has been straightened, inspect the member closely for cracks. If any cracks show, the frame member should be reinforced or replaced.

Reinforcements should be made from angle or flat stock of the same material and thickness as the frame member being reinforced, and should extend a minimum of 152.40mm (6 inches) to either side of the crack. Ideally, the reinforcement should be cut from the corresponding area of a similar frame.

Weld Attachment

To ensure a quality repair, adhere to the following procedure if it is necessary to weld reinforcements to the frame.
1. Wire brush the area around the crack to remove the paint, grease, mud, etc., and to expose the crack completely and ensure good weld adhesion.
2. To stop the crack from spreading, drill a 6.35mm (1/4-inch) hole at a point 12mm (0.50 inch) beyond the root of the crack.
3. Grind out the full length of the crack to the hole to form a V-shaped slot with the base of the V-slot contacting the reinforcement.
4. The base of the V-slot should have at least a 1.52mm (0.06-inch) opening to ensure weld penetration to the reinforcement when welding the crack.
5. Drill clearance holes in the reinforcements to clear rivet heads and bolt heads or nuts where necessary.
6. In the event that repair is required on more than one frame surface (i.e., a flange crack that extends into the web), two pieces of flat stock (one for each surface) should be utilized and welded together where they join. The web reinforcement should be a minimum of 76.20mm (3.0 inches) high and have a 63.50mm (2.5-inch) radius at each of the two corners.
7. Completely clean the surface of frame under and around the reinforcements.
8. Clamp the reinforcements securely to the frame prior to welding.
9. Weld the reinforcement all around after welding the crack V-slot.
10. The flange edge weld should be ground smooth after all pit holes have been filled by the weld.
11. If a damaged bolted-on frame bracket is to be replaced, the new bolts, washers, and nuts should be of the same specifications and bolt torques as the original parts.
12. In cases where it is necessary to remove rivets, replace them with Property Class 9.8 metric (Grade 8 ) nuts, bolts and washers of the next larger size (i.e., for 3/8-inch diameter rivets use 7/16-inch bolts, for 7/16-inch diameter rivets use 1/2-inch bolts). This requires line drilling of the holes to the same diameter as the new bolt (i.e., either 0.437 diameter or 0.500 diameter).

Frame Member Replacement

If a damaged frame member is to be replaced, new bolts, Property Class 9.8 metric (Grade 8 ) fasteners and rivets required for replacement of parts should be of the same specifications as the original bolts or rivets. In cases where it is necessary to substitute a bolt for a rivet, use the next larger size bolt." by Ford

More frame info in 1996 Bronco Workshop Manual (same as your 95) @ 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
@NYFSB I'm in Queens and the truck is in Port Washington until I get everything squared with the DMV. Thanks for the tip on Deer Park Drive shaft - Did you pull your shaft and bring it to him or did he do that for you?

Just an overall observation - FSB rocks! thanks for the responses, links and tips!
I took it off and bought it to him. The driveshaft comes off very easily.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
just a quick updat on my progress...
-I washed, clay bared and waxed the truck... surprisingly the pant wasnt as bad as I thought...
-I attempted to change the oil pressure switch but its hard to get the 1 1/16 deep socket on, so going to get a smaller socket and try that, so TBD
-was going to look at the ABS issue but going to put that off for a bit
- found a bunch of disconnected wires, so a bit concerned about that - going to research this a bit and see if its anything major or I can let these sit for a while
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
751 Posts
just a quick updat on my progress...
-I washed, clay bared and waxed the truck... surprisingly the pant wasnt as bad as I thought...
-I attempted to change the oil pressure switch but its hard to get the 1 1/16 deep socket on, so going to get a smaller socket and try that, so TBD
-was going to look at the ABS issue but going to put that off for a bit
- found a bunch of disconnected wires, so a bit concerned about that - going to research this a bit and see if its anything major or I can let these sit for a while
Don't be concerned about the "disconnected wires" those are diagnostic ports, meant to be unplugged. Don't attempt to change the oil pressure switch with a regular deep socket you need a Oil pressure socket, see below for the one I have but any brand will work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
@NYFSB - thanks for the tip on the oil pressure switch. I spent a good hour trying to get that dang thing out and no luck. I ordered the oil pressure socket off eBay - so I'll knock out the switch when it arrives.
Also, my company just shuttered for two weeks because of the covid crisis. With this new found time I'm going to make a list of stuff to repair and fix on top of everything I already have..
top of my list, I'm going to remove rust on the frame and paint it. I figure that's a few good days of work and a good excuse for me to buy a pancake compressor...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Today was a good day... Over the past week I removed all the crusty rust off the frame , prepped it and used rust converter. I was able to coat everything I could with primer.. I'm hoping by Thursday I'll be able to use farm implement paint to finish up the job. I did discover some rust near the tailgate which I'm going to cut and and prep some patch panels for...
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Got about half way done on the frame today with farm & impliment paint. Will finish up over the weekend.
Will also tackle the drivers window issue , got my ball bearings on order ...
 

Attachments

1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top