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I'm still in search of my first full size Bronco, having missed out on the $150 1984...:duh
I found a 1995, Sport package, 156,000 highway miles, the seller says it has a lifter noise at startup. I haven't heard in person yet, will this weekend. What would I be looking at to replace the lifters? Should more be done with such high mileage? TIA!
 

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You would need to remove the intake, and then loosen the rocker arms to remove the pushrods. I'm no master mechanic, and I am sure i will get some stupid remark for my post, but i think you would be better off just overhauling the entire engine. But not if the engine is still strong, then it might be worth it to just replace a lifter.
 

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FSB warrior
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while your in there do a cam swap.. you get the lifters as part of the package... and while your in there... do a timing chain, ei double roller.
 

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156K?? I'd do the ovehaul too! I may catch shit for this one but personaly I had a reman. from Ford put in mine. It's a lil more pricey than a rebuilt from your local shop but you can't beat the 36/36 warrenty (which the older you get the more you appreiceate such things)! Also the cool thing about the Ford engine is that no matter where you are when/if something goes wrong you just call up the local Ford dealership and say come fix this junk!:thumbup
 

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ive got 262000 miles on my '95, what do u guys think about a replacement or a rebuild? i pull a trailer hundereds of miles every weekend & its still plenty strong. should i replace or rebuild? or leave it?
 

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You guys really need to do some price comparo's.... $1999 for a 100% new 320 HP long block or 1700 just for yours to get rebuilt.... or 1500 just for a reman ground down cam, blow by to ease break in... different brand valves, different length push rods...
 

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I saw one in a magazine that had 380HP , I think the same magazine I saw the 320HP.
 

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FSB warrior
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In Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords... a company names Central Coast Mustang

661-823-2400 Tehachapi, CA

302 long block 320HP roller cam block, GT-40P heads with Manley valves, B or E-303 cam, double roller timing chain, Ford roller lifters, hypereutectic pistons(Speed pros with the teflon skirts) Hi vol oil pump graphite head gaskets, rockers. Add 1.6 or 1.7 roller rockers for 179 Add probe Forged pistons for $250 (can you say blower??)
1895+290 SH (to ND)+0 core charge
450 HP 342 long block $3795
Probe forged pistons, double roller timing chain, AFR 185 heads roller rockers, X-303 cam, hy vol oil pump, full gasket kit add main girdle with ARP studs for 119.

^^^^^^ basically thats my next engine^^^^^^^^
short block of that engine includes cam and oil pump for 1995
 

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When I bought my bronco the guy said that it was just a lifter. So I replaced the cam and lifters and still the tick, so I replaced the lifters again and still the tick. I just dealt with it for 2 years, when finally enough was enough and told my mechanic to keep it until the tick was gone. It ended up being a 2 inch hole in one of my pistons. It costed me 1400$ for a complete rebuild. So if you don't have the money to deal with the problems just pass on it. There will always be another.
 

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Why do you think you need new lifters? If it's a 302 then it's got roller lifters which basically NEVER need replacement (mine have 151k...tore everything down at 148k for inspect and rebuild and found the lifters were in perfect condition...just a little dirty). You can take apart roller lifters and clean them out if you think you have one sticking. However, if it's a 351, I believe 96s had rollers but anything prior (except CA) were flat tappet. If it's a flat tappet, get rid of them, convert to roller using an old mustang's setup. Good luck.
 

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BTW I had a tick too...thought it was an exhaust leak for the longest time until I plugged all the exhaust leaks. It wound up being a cracked exhaust valve, so I went ahead and tore apart the whole motor.
 

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But what does mine say?
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Yep, ticks can come from many things. If you aren't very mechanicly inclinded, have someone check it for you. Passing this one up may be easier on your walet.
 

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Ive got the same tick on cold start only, can be intermittent
happens right away or after a couple seconds will start. bought
my '95 351 about 6 months ago, i figured lifters or rod/main bearings and figured i'll drive the s--t out of it till it breaks
then start then upgrade like a mo-fo. havent had my mechanic
friends look at it yet, too embaressed ----they like shitrolets
good luck guys.
Also will the 320HP long block work on EFI, better check
some heads may not be compatible
 

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really funny considering the GT40Ps were designed for 1995 Ford Lightning IIRC. You have to ask them to drill for the smog stuff (believe its the X over tube in the back) but a roller block was designed for EFI. Just so happens it works well with a 750CFM Holley carb as well.
 

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Hate to dig thi up again, my mechanic friends inspected mine
very certain its a lifter but ha gotten louder and longer in duration.
tried an additive for cleaning oil grime inside from BG--got beter than worse
--anybody have suggestions for sticking lifters, i've heard ATF works
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:beer
 

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try using the factory oil filter, instead of aftermarket oil filters,factory filter wont let the oil drain out of the oil pump and filter over night like aftermarket filters do ,see if this helps for your cold start ticking noise,, for sticky valves try marvels mistery oil,pour right in your engine oil
 

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Broncot said:
I'm still in search of my first full size Bronco, having missed out on the $150 1984...:duh
I found a 1995, Sport package, 156,000 highway miles, the seller says it has a lifter noise at startup. I haven't heard in person yet, will this weekend. What would I be looking at to replace the lifters? Should more be done with such high mileage? TIA!

I had lifter noise at start up in my 95 302... a can of Sea-foam from NAPA, dumped in the oil, cured it within a few days... and that was 2 months ago.

Did a whole thread on it in the vendor section.
 
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