[MikeW]

I need a walk through to make sure whatever needs to be disconnected on engine. 1996 302 with E4OD.

The drive acessories have been disconnected, timing cover is already off, starter is out, radiator is already out, throttle body is removed.

Tranny access cover was accessed and 4 bolts removed at the upper portion of the tranny, and 2 bolts removed from transmission under both sides of the tranny. So thats 6 bolts removed from Tranny. (18mm bolt head)

Engine mount bolts on both sides: Aft ones left loose until removed and forward ones were removed.

Exhaust disconnected at the collector.

Still have to disconnect:
Vacuum Line from brake booster
Fuel Lines
Do I have to disconnect EGR at top of upper intake manifold?
What else?

Do I need to remove flex plate cover when taking motor out?

 

[Jacking_up_Bronco]

Automatic?

Is it an automatic? I don't thiink you said it, did you pull the four nuts that hold the flex plate to the torque converter. I like to leave the TC on the tranny.

 

[JKossarides]

If you're not doing anything to the transmission I'd leave it in and just place either a good floor jack or big blocks of wood underneath the bell housing to keep it level in place, that's what I did.

DO NOT REMOVE THE TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK TUBE...lol lol...otherwise tranny fluid will piss all over the floor AND you'll have to replace the dipstick tube O rings.

Unbolt the transmission from the back of the engine and when putting them back in "hand thread" them all they way FIRST so there's no chance youll strip one. Don't forget to unbolt the 4 torque convertor bolts and DO NOT PUT THE TQ NUTS BACK UNTIL THE ENGINE IS FULLY BACK IN AND RESTING/BOLTED to THE MOTOR MOUNTS otherwise you could pull the TQ forward and tranny fluid will leak out from the seal there.

I removed the upper fuel injection plenum so I wouldn't have to take off the hood to pull out the engine as I was by myself with a rented engine hoist but it was no problem but the only thing you need to get a feel for is how much chain length you need with the hosit to lift the engine up, over the radiator core support and set down then repeat with the new engine going in.

I had a chain across the top of the engine using bolt holes front and back, left/right side so if you do it that way the engine wants to turn either coming out or going in so it might better to bolt in the center where the FI plenum runner is located on the lower intake manifold BECAREFULL and make sure the manifold bolts are secure/tight to handle the weight there.

If you remove the upper FI plenum you can leave the EGR valve on along with the throttle body disconnected etc. but you should dissconnect the ERG tube and then remove it from the lower intake manifold so it doesn't get damage or cracked, they're expensive and can be difficult to find and you're porbaly going to repaint so parts need to come off anyway...NBD

The other thing I did was use blue painters tape and labeled vacuum hoses and every m/f sensor harenss connector so when reconnecting it was a no brainer where everything went. I also took some time and visually inspected the harness for damage, chaffing or bare spots and using CRC Electrical spray cleaner where it just evaporates then retapped those questionable spots where the tape was dry/brittle etc. etc. while working with the engine out/in I layed the harness off to the drivers side out of harms way just in case.

You'll notice that some elec. connectors can be disassembled where the us-snap and come apart should any be broken or cracked etc. RJM/Ford Fuelinjection has a wide variety or pigtails are available in most auto stores not expensive.

I found plastic freezer sandwhich bags you can write on extremely helpful for inventory and grouped parts and bolts together on the garage floor like an assembly line to keep track and a wire wheel brings back a lot of parts and bolts for cleaning and repainting parts.

Make sure you know How To "stab" a distributor and don't forget to "manually prime" the internal oil pump before you bolt it on with the oil tube and screen the oil pan. Prime the oil galley around the push rod and lifter areas with the lower intake manifold off and then using a drill and special "priming tool" attached to the oil pump shaft run the drill with priming tool for 5 miuntes circulating the oil all around inside so when you fire up the engine for the first time everything's lubricated, lifter setc. etc. you know....

The "priming tool" costs $35.00 now sitting in the tool box until I die before I'll use it again I'm sure....lol lol

Take your time and work thru it slowly depending on what length you're going to with the engine...www.supermotors.net/17406 - engine swap dtd Aug/Sept. 2008 and you can see what I did for reference.

Just a few thoughts!

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[MikeW]

If you're not doing anything to the transmission I'd leave it in and just place either a good floor jack or big blocks of wood underneath the bell housing to keep it level in place, that's what I did.

DO NOT REMOVE THE TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK TUBE...lol lol...otherwise tranny fluid will piss all over the floor AND you'll have to replace the dipstick tube O rings.

Unbolt the transmission from the back of the engine and when putting them back in "hand thread" them all they way FIRST so there's no chance youll strip one. Don't forget to unbolt the 4 torque convertor bolts and DO NOT PUT THE TQ NUTS BACK UNTIL THE ENGINE IS FULLY BACK IN AND RESTING/BOLTED to THE MOTOR MOUNTS otherwise you could pull the TQ forward and tranny fluid will leak out from the seal there.

I removed the upper fuel injection plenum so I wouldn't have to take off the hood to pull out the engine as I was by myself with a rented engine hoist but it was no problem but the only thing you need to get a feel for is how much chain length you need with the hosit to lift the engine up, over the radiator core support and set down then repeat with the new engine going in.

I had a chain across the top of the engine using bolt holes front and back, left/right side so if you do it that way the engine wants to turn either coming out or going in so it might better to bolt in the center where the FI plenum runner is located on the lower intake manifold BECAREFULL and make sure the manifold bolts are secure/tight to handle the weight there.

If you remove the upper FI plenum you can leave the EGR valve on along with the throttle body disconnected etc. but you should dissconnect the ERG tube and then remove it from the lower intake manifold so it doesn't get damage or cracked, they're expensive and can be difficult to find and you're porbaly going to repaint so parts need to come off anyway...NBD

The other thing I did was use blue painters tape and labeled vacuum hoses and every m/f sensor harenss connector so when reconnecting it was a no brainer where everything went. I also took some time and visually inspected the harness for damage, chaffing or bare spots and using CRC Electrical spray cleaner where it just evaporates then retapped those questionable spots where the tape was dry/brittle etc. etc. while working with the engine out/in I layed the harness off to the drivers side out of harms way just in case.

You'll notice that some elec. connectors can be disassembled where the us-snap and come apart should any be broken or cracked etc. RJM/Ford Fuelinjection has a wide variety or pigtails are available in most auto stores not expensive.

I found plastic freezer sandwhich bags you can write on extremely helpful for inventory and grouped parts and bolts together on the garage floor like an assembly line to keep track and a wire wheel brings back a lot of parts and bolts for cleaning and repainting parts.

Make sure you know How To "stab" a distributor and don't forget to "manually prime" the internal oil pump before you bolt it on with the oil tube and screen the oil pan. Prime the oil galley around the push rod and lifter areas with the lower intake manifold off and then using a drill and special "priming tool" attached to the oil pump shaft run the drill with priming tool for 5 miuntes circulating the oil all around inside so when you fire up the engine for the first time everything's lubricated, lifter setc. etc. you know....

The "priming tool" costs $35.00 now sitting in the tool box until I die before I'll use it again I'm sure....lol lol

Take your time and work thru it slowly depending on what length you're going to with the engine...www.supermotors.net/17406 - engine swap dtd Aug/Sept. 2008 and you can see what I did for reference.

Just a few thoughts!

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

The 6 bolts with a 18mm head are out of the holes where the transmission mates to the motor. I am leaving the transmission in. Nothing wrong with it. Just taking motor out.

I brought a variety of colors in 3M electrical tape to mark connections by color code.

Zip lock bags to keep bolts, nuts and parts organized.

I have a priming extension for a drill to prime oil when I put it back in.

Going to leave the upper intake manifold in because I will have to take hood off anyway because we will take it out with a tow truck boom.

Other thing I will have to remove is the smog pumb tube clip bolts. It looks like the clips are welded onto the smog pump tube to the passenger side of the motor.

Why do I have to mess with the torque convertor if I am leaving the tranny in there?

For the first poster I mentioned it was a E4OD and yes its a automatic.

 

[JKossarides]

Stangmata 2005 write up,

Remove Torque Converter Bolts - E4OD

There are "four nuts" holding the t-converter to the flexplate. To access a nut, get a big flat-head screwdriver or a flywheel-grabbing tool, and spin the flywheel until a nut is visible where you once had the gaurd plates. Remove a nut and repeat the process until all nuts have been removed.

The TQ will stay in the bellhousing but if you don't do this you can't seperate the tranny from the engine, flex plate for starter motor is bolted to the back of the engine along with the big aluminum transmission dust cover with 5 large bolts


Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[MikeW]

Stangmata 2005 write up,

Remove Torque Converter Bolts - E4OD

There are "four nuts" holding the t-converter to the flexplate. To access a nut, get a big flat-head screwdriver or a flywheel-grabbing tool, and spin the flywheel until a nut is visible where you once had the gaurd plates. Remove a nut and repeat the process until all nuts have been removed.

The TQ will stay in the bellhousing but if you don't do this you can't seperate the tranny from the engine, flex plate for starter motor is bolted to the back of the engine along with the big aluminum transmission dust cover with 5 large bolts


Good Luck ~ :thumbup

If I understand right, flywheel cover under rear main has to be removed to access flexplate for torque converter bolts?

Anybody know what size of bolt head?

 

[JKossarides]

No, there are 4 nuts on the torque converter and all you have to do is remove the small transmission dust cover on the bottom front of the bellhousing and with a torque wrench, 15/16 socket and drive placed on the crank bolt, turn the engine and take off the "nuts" as each one shows up from a turn, that's it, I don't recall what size they were, just small..

There's a 5, large bolt cluster at the back middle of the engine and once it's out of the engine bay you can access them to remove the flex plate first and then the big aluminum dust cover.

Look up the Stangmata thread and there's a picture of the TQ and bolt/s!

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[MikeW]

Got nuts off torque converter and smog pump tube front nut off and stud off at the rear. very rusty.

Question is the two fuel line disconnects at the rear of the motor, do I use the same disconnect tool as in doing the fuel filter? One line is black and the other is blue.

 

[JKossarides]

There's special tool for disconnecting the fuel lines on top, you'll see a bottle cap style, round chrome coupling where the short fuel line from the rail meets the inline coming up from below...there's a "garter spring" inside it and this is a safety feature ...lol lol...that had a recall some years ago and my garter spring went away probably due to rust and I went to start the BKO and fuel was pissing out like a faucet on the driveway so I used a tie wrap, figure 8 style to hold it all together until I got the garter spring which costs all of about $1.00 each.......GEEEZZZ......so periodically I spray Break Free at the garter spring hoping it won't rust away, though that spring has been in there for many years now with no sign of trouble....lol lol

The tool "spreads" the spring to release right there, when I swapped in my new engine I didn't have that tool so I disconnected the fuel lines at the forward fuel pump and back to the fuel reservoir on the drivers side frame rail under the transfer case skid plate....and carefully pulled it all out PITA and had to keep it safely out of the way on the garage floor so it wouldn't get damaged....NBD but disconnecting right on top is probably much easier.

The forward "round canister" fuel filter and fuel reservoir lines has little jagged U clips but I just use a screw driver and they pop right out. I'm thinking the special tool for the fuel line on top is a scissor style with a circular shape to fit "inside" the diameter of the garter spring so it will spread open and release if that makes sense...once you see the special tool you'll understand, O'Reillys not expensive.

Best I can offer!

Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[ZRyals93]

I got a question for you guys. I currently own a 1993 Bronco with the 302 in it. I'm being offered an '89 5.0 Bronco motor for a buildup. Are there any differences in the wiring harness I need to be aware of? Swapping from a 93 motor to a 89?

 

[JKossarides]

Check www.broncolinks.com and www.oldfuelinjection.com regarding harness's, maybe you can find some answers there.....I wouldn't think so off hand but OEM things can change from year to year so.......:thumbup