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1996 Ford Bronco 5.8
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Discussion Starter #1
I am wanting to put a bigger cam in my 1996 bronco 5.8. Any recommendations on what cam i should put in? Besides the cam, is there anything else I should upgrade to insure that there will be no issues with it when it runs? Also should I get it tuned after I install it? Any feedback is really appreciated. Thanks y'all.
 

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Man of endless projects
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your not going to really gain much of acam with a stock engine.

if you really want to change the cam, the 35-512-8 is probably the cam id recommend to most and its pretty minor change. save the money for other stuff
 

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1996 Ford Bronco 5.8
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Discussion Starter #3
your not going to really gain much of acam with a stock engine.

if you really want to change the cam, the 35-512-8 is probably the cam id recommend to most and its pretty minor change. save the money for other stuff
Not even gonna lie to you dude I don't even care how much more power it makes, I'm just in love with the chop noise its makes lol. I just got a ton of money to blow from the army and wanna frame off restore it.
 

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if you upgrade the cam much, you'll need to swap out to new valve springs.

if you're doing a frame off restoration, then you should do way more than just a cam to the engine.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Yes you will need a tune.

You'll also need valve springs, which means you should have the heads checked and refurbished.

Youll want a better intake and exhaust at the very least.

Cams with lopey idles dont go well with factory EFI, even mass air.
 

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95 5.8L MAF XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Man hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15, 301K miles
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With all that extra free money flowing, you should get some AFR 165-185 heads along with the Cam & Springs (as stated above) and the Intake, Exhaust and Tune (as also stated above). Do it right the first time since money is of no object and you won't be complaining later. If you want rumpity rump then ditch the EFI and go with a carb. The choice is yours
 

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1996 Ford Bronco 5.8
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Discussion Starter #8
With all that extra free money flowing, you should get some AFR 165-185 heads along with the Cam & Springs (as stated above) and the Intake, Exhaust and Tune (as also stated above). Do it right the first time since money is of no object and you won't be complaining later. If you want rumpity rump then ditch the EFI and go with a carb. The choice is yours
How hard is a carb swap? is there special wiring that you have to do so there is no check engine light? Also i'm daily driving this thing so would it be worse on the engine?
 

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Man of endless projects
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ughhh your killing me. alright...you sounds like a teenager, am i wrong? please dont ruin your truck, you will regret it. you dont pick a cam for the sound. change your exhaust if you want it to be like that.

you dont want to carb swap a 96. its the best year EFI, only year the 5.8 had MAF, and its OBD-II. and a carb swap gets rid of all of that. there will be no Check Engine Light because there will be no computer. it being MAF means it could handle cam swaps better without tuning but not perfectly. going to a carb would be a kick in the nuts to alot of people who do swaps to convert to MAF. if you have an auto trans, it needs the computer to shift so if you go to carb you also need to buy a transmission controller that cost several hundred bucks. you also need a older style distributor to deal with spark. need a carb style intake manifold and a carb obviously. would have to do something about fuel pressure being too high. would have to butcher yuor wiring. really you spend alot more money converting it to carb than its worth and with no advantage

you have a roller 5.8 which is great. roller cams came only in 94 and later 5.8 and can handle more than flat tappet. but roller cams are also more expensive, starting at about 300$. you could convert to flat tappet which uses a cam half the price but now you need pushrods and lifters and change distributor gear. will need zinc in oil and to do a proper cam break-in to make sure it doesnt wipe out. all which makes it a downgrade for same cost as a roller cam. so if you do a cam swap dont go flat tappet. price might seem appealing but its not

stock E7 heads suck and a big cam will only help so much for power before you start really loosing bottom end power. it will begin to feel like you have to floor it at every time you accelerate for it to go at a normal rate. and when you get into a cam with little lobe seperation which amkes it sound like you want it to they idle crappy and tend to stall when you put it into gear much more likely.

just keep cam stock and give it a good exhaust and call it good.
 

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1996 Bronco XLT 5.8L
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Wow. That was an awesome post. So much info. Thanks for that! And I'm not even looking to change anything on my Bronco.
 

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1996 Ford Bronco 5.8
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Discussion Starter #11
ughhh your killing me. alright...you sounds like a teenager, am i wrong? please dont ruin your truck, you will regret it. you dont pick a cam for the sound. change your exhaust if you want it to be like that.

you dont want to carb swap a 96. its the best year EFI, only year the 5.8 had MAF, and its OBD-II. and a carb swap gets rid of all of that. there will be no Check Engine Light because there will be no computer. it being MAF means it could handle cam swaps better without tuning but not perfectly. going to a carb would be a kick in the nuts to alot of people who do swaps to convert to MAF. if you have an auto trans, it needs the computer to shift so if you go to carb you also need to buy a transmission controller that cost several hundred bucks. you also need a older style distributor to deal with spark. need a carb style intake manifold and a carb obviously. would have to do something about fuel pressure being too high. would have to butcher yuor wiring. really you spend alot more money converting it to carb than its worth and with no advantage

you have a roller 5.8 which is great. roller cams came only in 94 and later 5.8 and can handle more than flat tappet. but roller cams are also more expensive, starting at about 300$. you could convert to flat tappet which uses a cam half the price but now you need pushrods and lifters and change distributor gear. will need zinc in oil and to do a proper cam break-in to make sure it doesnt wipe out. all which makes it a downgrade for same cost as a roller cam. so if you do a cam swap dont go flat tappet. price might seem appealing but its not

stock E7 heads suck and a big cam will only help so much for power before you start really loosing bottom end power. it will begin to feel like you have to floor it at every time you accelerate for it to go at a normal rate. and when you get into a cam with little lobe seperation which amkes it sound like you want it to they idle crappy and tend to stall when you put it into gear much more likely.

just keep cam stock and give it a good exhaust and call it good.
Thanks dude I really appreciate the advice. I'm only 21 and I don't know absolutely everything about these engines. After listening to you I'm thinking ill just keep it stock now and just do an exhaust like you said. Anything you think that I should do to get a little more power out of it? Again, can thank you enough for the advice cuz I really need it.
 

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I have a 96/351w. I did everything but a cam swap and I love it. The only way I'd recommend a cam swap is with a rebuild. I spent my time gathering parts at considerable discounts and still spent a good chunk of change. But, I feel pretty rewarded because I don't suffer any (at all) negative side effects and I did zero tuning.

 

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Eric
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ughhh your killing me. alright...you sounds like a teenager, am i wrong? please dont ruin your truck, you will regret it. you dont pick a cam for the sound. change your exhaust if you want it to be like that.

you dont want to carb swap a 96. its the best year EFI, only year the 5.8 had MAF, and its OBD-II. and a carb swap gets rid of all of that. there will be no Check Engine Light because there will be no computer. it being MAF means it could handle cam swaps better without tuning but not perfectly. going to a carb would be a kick in the nuts to alot of people who do swaps to convert to MAF. if you have an auto trans, it needs the computer to shift so if you go to carb you also need to buy a transmission controller that cost several hundred bucks. you also need a older style distributor to deal with spark. need a carb style intake manifold and a carb obviously. would have to do something about fuel pressure being too high. would have to butcher yuor wiring. really you spend alot more money converting it to carb than its worth and with no advantage

you have a roller 5.8 which is great. roller cams came only in 94 and later 5.8 and can handle more than flat tappet. but roller cams are also more expensive, starting at about 300$. you could convert to flat tappet which uses a cam half the price but now you need pushrods and lifters and change distributor gear. will need zinc in oil and to do a proper cam break-in to make sure it doesnt wipe out. all which makes it a downgrade for same cost as a roller cam. so if you do a cam swap dont go flat tappet. price might seem appealing but its not

stock E7 heads suck and a big cam will only help so much for power before you start really loosing bottom end power. it will begin to feel like you have to floor it at every time you accelerate for it to go at a normal rate. and when you get into a cam with little lobe seperation which amkes it sound like you want it to they idle crappy and tend to stall when you put it into gear much more likely.

just keep cam stock and give it a good exhaust and call it good.
You have a big heart. A lesser man would've let him throw $8k at the thing, in parts, and then just found out what junkyard he left it at when it didn't run worth a crap. That could've been a sweet JY score for someone in his area. :)

To the OP: Do yourself a huge favor and learn how an engine works before you make poor decisions with your modifications. Same concept as why the Army didn't issue you a rifle without training. There are tons of YouTube vids with demonstrational animations of how engines work. Then, after you learn about the various parts, what they do, and how they interact with each other, learn about what is reasonable to do with your particular engine in your BKO. That way, you're not trying to load 7.62 rounds into your M4.
 
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Man of endless projects
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because its the internet, i wasn't sure if that wrote out sounding like if i was a jackhole or not. wasnt trying to be but i do tend to get a bit of an attitude to people who do more advance mods like that that dont exactly know the effects of. see it alot on Facebook groups but it is something i have seen done not just Ford trucks but alot of vehicles. people hear about doing X swap/mod and then they want to do the same despite it being a terrible idea for thier application. then when they do finish it they hate it, generally put up with it for a short time and then say its a POS and get rid of it. had a friends with a chevy 1500 with 350 and a cam and it ran like crap due to big cam. they got rid of truck shortly after. have a friends that put a turbo on thier jeep. got rid of it shortly after. had a friend put a huge cam in an engine because wanted lope, it never ran because valve springs coupldnt handle it and broke many things on startup

i am not a cam expert by any means but i have a bit of an understanding to them. i myself put too big of a cam in one of my trucks that was a recommendation by a mustang forum. swapped in a Trickflow 'stage 1' cam which is popular for mustangs, but in a truck it was terrible. low-mid throttle made it such a dog that you almost have to floor it on every time in order to get it to drive normal. and the trans would shift gears before the engine reached the rpm range it needed unless you had it floored. it was far from a lopey cam you want and it still occasionally stalled at times. i swapped it out a month later and was far more happy with a Comp 35-512-8 cam. that would be a cam to put in a truck but as dashcam said i would only do that if your doing engine work enough to a point to justify it. it wont increase power enough to be worth doing the swap but if your doing a rebuild for example it might be a good idea.

we can help you make your truck better. its all your decision in the end what you want to do. but many of us have some good info and experience and can help guide you. there are some with misinformation that can steer you the wrong way also cough Facebook groups cough. unfortunatly it does require a good amount of money to do any real significant changes. so if something sounds too good to be true it probably is. and dont try to go the cheap route because it will cost more in the end
 

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1996 Ford Bronco 5.8
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Discussion Starter #15
You have a big heart. A lesser man would've let him throw $8k at the thing, in parts, and then just found out what junkyard he left it at when it didn't run worth a crap. That could've been a sweet JY score for someone in his area. :)

To the OP: Do yourself a huge favor and learn how an engine works before you make poor decisions with your modifications. Same concept as why the Army didn't issue you a rifle without training. There are tons of YouTube vids with demonstrational animations of how engines work. Then, after you learn about the various parts, what they do, and how they interact with each other, learn about what is reasonable to do with your particular engine in your BKO. That way, you're not trying to load 7.62 rounds into your M4.
I do know how engines work, I was a mechanic at my dads shop before i went off to the army. I just don't know certain things specifically for my engine that is why i came on here and so far its been pretty helpful. I appreciate the hound tho at least yall didn't let me do some stupid stuff to my truck lol
 

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Eric
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I do know how engines work, I was a mechanic at my dads shop before i went off to the army. I just don't know certain things specifically for my engine that is why i came on here and so far its been pretty helpful. I appreciate the hound tho at least yall didn't let me do some stupid stuff to my truck lol
Roger that. Couldn't tell your experience level from the posts. You can still have a monster-bad-ass-nasty cam in your BKO. Just not the way it's set up currently. You can play with computer chips in your ECU to allow a ridiculous cam. Especially if you have MAF. Mustang guys do it all the time. It just takes all kinds of other parts to compliment that cam and make everything work together. Unless you're going for a whole system re-hash, though, you're better off with conservative mods.

Here's a cool little article about a 400 HP/ 450 TQ. 5.8 and EEC-IV computer system (like in our BKO's) from Hot Rod: Ford 351W Small Block with EFI - Hot Rod Magazine
 
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